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Messages - kramerog

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346
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Doh! Yeast starter blunder.
« on: June 02, 2016, 09:02:54 AM »
My guess is that the hefeweizen yeast will not be active at lager temperatures and thus have negligible impact on your current lager and your future lagers.  I don't have enough experience with hefeweizen yeasts to make a more educated guess.

347
Equipment and Software / Re: Chest Freezer/Temperature Control
« on: June 02, 2016, 07:35:29 AM »
My point is about the temperature of the freezer when the fermentation temp controller turns the freezer off.  Do you want the freezer to be 40*F, 20*F, 0*F, etc?  If it is 0 *F, the fermenter temp will drop significantly below the desired temp.  The OP says it drops 3 *F below his setpoint.   Of course the temp undershoot also depends on the mass of the freezer versus the mass of the beer.

348
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: rolling boil?
« on: June 02, 2016, 07:26:23 AM »
What is the deal with "thermal stress?"  The last time I checked boiling wort was a liquid without feelings and without a metabolism.

I thought that lowering the boil rate in commercial brewing systems was driven by energy savings, which conceivably can be very substantial for a big operation.  Could be entirely wrong on this point.

I suppose that the temperature of boils can be "considerably" higher than 100 *C if the kettle is deep enough, which is not a concern for homebrewers.  For grins, I looked at a steam table.  The boiling point of water/water at the bottom of 15-16 ft of water/wort is 232 *F, which could be a concern for commercial brewers. 


349
Equipment and Software / Re: Chest Freezer/Temperature Control
« on: June 01, 2016, 08:38:11 PM »
5.  Warmest, assuming that the freezer temp setting is cooler than the desired ferment temp.  Having it on warmest reduces the temperature overshoot (3 F in your experience) because the freezer is much colder than the desired fermenter temp.
Really? My understanding is that the compressor is either on or off and that the freezer's built-in thermostat simply changes the set-point. Since even the warmest setting would ostensibly be "below" 32F this shouldn't matter. That said, since we're already using the temp controller to cycle the power on and off it seems that setting the freezer to "coldest" would be the safest, since it minimizes the chance for the freezer thermostat ever doing anything. Am I missing something?
If the thermostat cuts a freezer off at say at 32 F, then the freezer is still cooling the fermenter.  Stable temps are better than fluctuating fermentation temps.

Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk
Think you're partially wrong here. The dial on the freezer is a thermostat, basically a switch that cuts off at a given temp. It is functioning the same as the external controller, but at a lower range. That said, warm on the chest freezer might be warmer than 32 which is where I crash. I set both my keezer and ferm feeezer to the cold side of the dial.

The OP said the following: "3:  I have the freezer set up, but empty.  The controller is set at 63F and the controller shuts the compressor off at the set temp.  The freezer, however continues to chill to below 60F even after it is shut off."

To reduce the overshoot of the cooling, the freezer thermostat should be set to a warmer temperature that is still below the desired temperature, say 10 *F below.  If the freezer thermostat cuts off the freezer at 10 *F below the ferment temp, it will still be cooling the fermenter.  Eventually, as the freezer warms up it will turn back on unless the ferment temp has hit its target in the meantime.


350
I wonder if homebrewers who did not like black patent were not properly adjusting the mash pH.  The pH readings suggest that black patent is more acidic than the other dark malts even at the same nominal lovibond value.

Would it make a difference if the black patent were to be added to the mash just before vorlauf?
Greg Noonan, RIP, suggested doing just that, but the flavor impact from dark grains added after the mash is a lot less than added at the start of the mash.

Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk


351
Equipment and Software / Re: Chest Freezer/Temperature Control
« on: June 01, 2016, 06:13:56 PM »
5.  Warmest, assuming that the freezer temp setting is cooler than the desired ferment temp.  Having it on warmest reduces the temperature overshoot (3 F in your experience) because the freezer is much colder than the desired fermenter temp.
Really? My understanding is that the compressor is either on or off and that the freezer's built-in thermostat simply changes the set-point. Since even the warmest setting would ostensibly be "below" 32F this shouldn't matter. That said, since we're already using the temp controller to cycle the power on and off it seems that setting the freezer to "coldest" would be the safest, since it minimizes the chance for the freezer thermostat ever doing anything. Am I missing something?
If the thermostat cuts a freezer off at say at 32 F, then the freezer is still cooling the fermenter.  Stable temps are better than fluctuating fermentation temps.

Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk


352
Equipment and Software / Re: Chest Freezer/Temperature Control
« on: June 01, 2016, 07:04:43 AM »
5.  Warmest, assuming that the freezer temp setting is cooler than the desired ferment temp.  Having it on warmest reduces the temperature overshoot (3 F in your experience) because the freezer is much colder than the desired fermenter temp.

353
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Aeration with Whisper Aquarium Pump
« on: May 31, 2016, 04:08:57 PM »
I think you would be better off with a stainless steel stone to create small bubbles.

Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk


354
Beer Recipes / Re: How much lactic acid is a problem?
« on: May 31, 2016, 01:55:59 PM »
I use about 5 ml of lactic acid in a 5 gal batch without hesitation in pale styles.  I haven't had reason to use more than that.

355
I wonder if homebrewers who did not like black patent were not properly adjusting the mash pH.  The pH readings suggest that black patent is more acidic than the other dark malts even at the same nominal lovibond value.

356
Two thoughts about the overflow during mashing.  1. Could you put a hose over the end of the overflow tube and into the mash at the other end?  2. Use more metabisulfite?

1. First time brewing with the BM. Not gonna mess around with the basic system now...
2. Maybe, but no clue how much...

Other than creating more acidity and more salt, you could double or triple the metabisulfite because it'll break down in the boil.  I would try to do some kind of calculation to see how much sulfuric acid and sodium or potassium you would be creating or adding to see if that would be problem.

357
Two thoughts about the overflow during mashing.  1. Could you put a hose over the end of the overflow tube and into the mash at the other end?  2. Use more metabisulfite?

358
Ingredients / Re: Table sugar instead of dextrose or ?
« on: May 27, 2016, 07:28:00 AM »
Table sugar will work just fine.  I generally see no reason to use corn sugar/dextrose.

359
Ingredients / Re: Adding Banana Ice Cubes
« on: May 27, 2016, 07:26:07 AM »
Generally the inside of fruit is clean enough and bananas can get pretty mushy so I think you could just put peeled fresh brown bananas into the fermenter without freezing.

360
I doubt that lack of nutrients are an issue in a low gravity fermentation.  That leaves mashing and oxygenation as the primary suspects.  If your yeast have built enough sterol reserves in the starter then I think you could forego aerating the wort but I doubt that a stir plate would do that because stir plates are about removing carbon dioxide, not so much about aeration.

Dry yeast is supposed to be made under aerobic conditions.  So one time, I pitched dry yeast into a non-aerated wort (except for incidental splashing) and got an unusually long lag.  I don't recall any negative effects to the lag.  I have since then gone back to aerating wort as my standard practice.

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