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Messages - kramerog

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Aerating yeast
« on: May 05, 2014, 02:59:30 PM »
Makes sense to me.  How much chilled wort are you adding to your decanted yeast vs. the size of the starter.  I would assume that the volume of chilled wort added is substantially larger than the size of the starter. 

Events / Re: 2014 NHC Seminars Posted
« on: April 30, 2014, 01:24:15 PM »
...and the planning begins... On a side note I always hate that format... I wish it was better laid out in blocks... I always end up putting all the info into a spreadsheet to make my decision making easier...

If you do put it in a spreadsheet would you share it please?  Which seminars to attend and which ones to listen to?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Gunk above krausen
« on: April 29, 2014, 07:22:41 AM »
I have racked onto a fresh yeast cake (just after racking off the finished beer) and fermented a second batch without cleaning the fermenter and didn't experience any problems or discernible off flavors (I don't make it a practice to do this, mind you, but once I tried it, since I was stepping up from a smaller beer to a bigger beer - and it reached the first krausen ring).

Good to know.  I don't plan to make it a practice to fill over the krausen ring when transferring beer between splits of the same batch, but sometimes it is expedient.  I kinda figured my concern was more theoretical than real since it can be really hard to remove the krausen ring.

General Homebrew Discussion / Gunk above krausen
« on: April 28, 2014, 10:34:52 AM »
I was kegging this weekend when I could see I was going to fill the corny before emptying the carboy, so I ran the excess beer into another carboy containing a split of the same batch.  The level in the second carboy is below the dried gunk from the krausen.  I know the dried gunk is supposed to be harsh and bitter.  If I had filled the second carboy above the gunk what would have happened to the beer? 

Hop Growing / Re: Aphid Problem
« on: April 28, 2014, 08:26:02 AM »
You can use insecticidal soap or a similar oil.  The soap kills the bugs by stripping the bugs of oil causing the bugs to dry out and die.  The oil suffocates the bugs.  Both are non-toxic and are safe to plants.  However, they require you spray very thoroughly because any bug that isn't sprayed will survive. 

Played flanker and second row in college.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Chemistry of Beer
« on: April 26, 2014, 10:51:18 AM »
I was going to go back to take the fermentation self-eval and quiz.  I'll look out for the discussions.

Sent from my SGH-T839 using Tapatalk 2

The Pub / Re: Have you ever ......
« on: April 25, 2014, 03:05:55 PM »

But doesn't the ADH just do the same thing in your liver anyways?  So for a given amount of beer it would be the same level of acetaldehyde in your body correct?  Of course I suppose this assumes you don't drink MORE because you're not getting drunk...

If there is more ADH (in your GI and in your liver) and the same amount of the enzyme that breaks down the acetaldehyde, you could end up with more acetaldehyde especially if you normally get flushed when drinking.

If you don't normally get flushed, go ahead and try the yeast.  I get a little flushed so I'm not going to try it unless I find out the yeast also provides the other enzyme too.

The Pub / Re: Have you ever ......
« on: April 25, 2014, 02:38:13 PM »
I assume the theory is based on the urban legend that vitamin B-6 helps with hangover recovery.  Yeast is loaded with it.  It's the basis of the myth that you won't get a hangover drinking homebrew because of the yeast.  I think we all know how much truth there is in that.

The article claims it is based on Alcohol dehydrogenase present in the yeast. essentially it would turn your stomach into a pre-liver and reduce the alcohol to non-intoxicating substances before it absorbed into your blood.

It could work for some, but not for others to the point of being harmful.  Alcohol dehydrogenase produces acetaldehyde which is more toxic than ethanol and which is part of the normal pathway for metabolizing alcohol.  So called Asian flush is often caused by having an inefficient enzyme for breaking down the acetaldehyde.  If the yeast also provides the enzyme for breaking down the acetaldehyde, which it could do, than eating yeast might be more generally useful.

Equipment and Software / Re: Single Tier Brew System
« on: April 24, 2014, 11:31:09 AM »
Brewing indoors, electric poses less safety issues.  However, I brew indoors with direct fire burners and natural gas, have a vent fan installed through a wall, and use a curtain with nomex panels so I don't suffocate.

Brewing outdoors, gas with propane tanks is probably easiest to get started.

If your source of gas is the gas you heat your house with, the operating cost of gas is probably cheaper than electric depending on your local utility costs.  If your source of gas is BBQ propane tanks, electric is probably considerably cheaper to operate.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: sulfur from T58
« on: April 23, 2014, 08:50:51 AM »
RDWHAHB, the sulfur should blow off during fermentation.  The ingredients in wit should have more sulfur in them then other beer styles from the pilsener malt and especially from unmalted wheat resulting in H2S during fermentation.

Wood/Casks / Saison for wine barrel
« on: April 22, 2014, 11:07:45 AM »
The wine barrel has had 4 batches of red in it including most recently a concord wine.  I want to do a saison in it.   I would prefer to not sour the saison this one time although modest sourness is OK.  I think that I'll try to control the sourness primarily by getting the saison really dry.  Any thoughts or tips on prepping the barrel or brewing the beer?  How much aging is likely to be beneficial?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Question for chemist types
« on: April 22, 2014, 10:47:06 AM »

By the way, the article on thymol says that it is used as an antiseptic in some mouthwashes (chloroseptic I wonder?)

One of the active ingredients in listerine, IIRC.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Question for chemist types
« on: April 21, 2014, 02:38:32 PM »
No.  Chlorophyll does not contain any chlorine atoms.  The chloro in chlorophenols means chlorine.  The chloro in chlorophyll means green.

Equipment and Software / Re: beer smiith question about efficiency,
« on: April 21, 2014, 12:54:54 PM »
Brewhouse efficiency is your efficiency of converting starting ingredients into wort.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Was it something I did?
« on: April 18, 2014, 12:54:49 PM »
It would also explain why every once in a while, I'll have a batch where I get great efficiency. 

I used to have that highly variable efficiency problem.  Finer crush was probably the number one fix.  Looser mash (went from 1.25 lbs/qt to 1.5 lbs/qt) was probably the number two fix because mixing became easier and better.  Mash pH was probably number three.

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