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Messages - kramerog

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346
Ingredients / Re: Big Alcohol, Little Knowledge
« on: November 06, 2014, 03:37:51 PM »
You will have to use a vessel with a relatively wide mouth to use a mix stir like a bucket or big mouth bubbler.


I use my mixstir in a better bottle all the time. Used it in a glass carboy as well. I actually prefer it because as it spins up the wort doesn't fly over the edge as it has before in a bucket.

I guess I got a bigger mix stir.  Bigger is not always better!

347
Ingredients / Re: Big Alcohol, Little Knowledge
« on: November 06, 2014, 01:16:27 PM »
Wow, I didn't expect this amount of of feedback, this is incredible.

I plan on getting an aquarium bubbler for the oxygenation issue and definetly adding some nutrients as per your suggestion reverseapachemaster.

A guy in the forum here made a 20 or 25% barley wine I got to try at NHC a couple years ago and, considering the novelty, it was pretty good. I believe the trick is to start off high gravity and get the yeast going and continue feeding the yeast sugar and very high gravity wort and aeration. You will also need a yeast that can tolerate the high ABV as most brewers yeast can't go much above 12.

Anyway, good luck, it is definitely an advanced technique. I'll PM him for you and ask him to chime in.

Typically, I'd say throw all the sugars in the boil but for something this high, I agree that incremental feeding might be the way to go.

If you're using all that LME, I'd try to start with an initial wort that's extremely fermentable.  Low mash temp for 90 minutes or so.

And, no I don't think you can go too dark.  I have no idea how roasty it will be as no one knows whats in dark extract, but you can be too roasty.  I think the bigger risk is too sweet with that much dark extract.

What did you mean by a "Low Mash Temp?" Should I wait until I get into All-Grain brewing to attempt this? And do I increase fermentability in my wort?

Re low mash temp, that would be for all-grain.

Re aeration, I think you would be better off with a mix stir rather than an aquarium bubbler.  I haven't ever seen anything scientifically-based that indicates aquarium bubblers are a good way to aerate wort.  You will have to use a vessel with a relatively wide mouth to use a mix stir like a bucket or big mouth bubbler.

348
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Sugar cubes for priming?
« on: November 06, 2014, 12:48:36 PM »
I generally keg, but I did purchase Domino cubes for surplus beer when my batch is bigger than a keg.  I have not had a chance to try the cubes yet.   On the plus side, you don't need a bottling bucket with the cubes.

349
Homebrew Clubs / Re: Selecting beers to serve at events...
« on: November 05, 2014, 03:59:54 PM »
We learned this past year that we will only be bringing as many kegs as we have taps. Our club has 9 taps and brought 15 kegs. Needless to say, some of them didn't even get tapped.

My club rotated taps with the best, most unique or most interesting stuff being on tap throughout the tasting.

350
Homebrew Clubs / Re: Paid positions for club board members
« on: November 05, 2014, 03:52:17 PM »
If by compensation you mean money then the club probably has employees or contractors rather than volunteers especially because the subject line is "paid positions for club board members."  This opens a can of worms ....  I'm not sure where the dividing line between employees or contractors and volunteers is, but I see plenty of clubs giving free or reduced entries and fee waivers to volunteers.

351
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Artificial Oxygenation
« on: November 04, 2014, 04:33:00 PM »
Hydrogen peroxide releases oxygen too, but "O" not "O2".  Can yeast digest O?
Not exactly, but O· can probably digest yeast pretty well...

2 KClO3(s) → 3 O2(g) + 2 KCl(s) (per Wikipedia) is the reaction gone to completion.  However, based on Wikipedia it sounds like the reaction would evolve oxygen over time not just when you need it. Also lots of bad things can happen like using pure oxygen.
Yeah, K Chlorate sounds like nasty stuff to deal with. But if you can manage it safely then it may be ok for starters or maybe something like a high gravity mead, where you're introducing oxygen over an extended period of time at the beginning of fermentation.

I could see using it for a mead if the meadmaker was going out of town for a few days maybe.  K is an important element to add to mead.

Personally, I would use a mixstir and delay starting the mead if necessary.

352
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: 100% Brett First Attempt
« on: November 04, 2014, 04:24:20 PM »
Going to try a 100% Brett fermentation and needed some help.

2) will Brett Brux Trois strain also work well for a primary fermentation (if I can't get my hands on Brett brux/lambicus)?
3) there seems to be a lot of variety in how fast I should expect these to ferment out- some say months, others something not too longer than a typical ferment schedule.
4) are starters necessary?

Thanks.
Having done a few all Brett beers:
2 - I don't see why not
3 - I guess it could be highly dependent on strain and temp.  I'm recalling that my ferments were basically done in 1 month.  However I probably allowed the ferments to continue for a few weeks after that to be sure so I didn't get any bottle bombs.
4 - Yes unless you are doing a small batch size.  Do not chill the starter because Brett takes a long time to get restarted after being cold.

353
Equipment and Software / Re: Refrigeration Space
« on: November 04, 2014, 08:43:23 AM »
What will happen is when you pour a beer the beer will be warm.  That sounds snarky but it is probably the biggest issue you will notice.  Temperature cycling can cause protein to precipitate which causes haze or leaves a deposit on the bottle.  I don't believe that temperature cycle causes any taste issues although conceivably the mouthfeel could be affected for better or worse.

Why don't you move your fermenting beer out of the freezer and control its temp using the fermwrap?

354
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Artificial Oxygenation
« on: November 03, 2014, 06:59:16 PM »

FWIW Budweiser experimented with cinnamon in the mash to prevent oxidation years ago. Cinnamon is a power anti-oxidant and the amount used was small and the flavors and aromas all boiled out leaving no hint of its presence. But apparently Bud didn't want people to find out there was cinnamon in the beer and abandoned it.

Sorry for the off topic foray. ;)

I think one of the Papazian's books says to use cinnamon.  I always wondered where the cinnamon thing came from.  Is the cinnamon for hot side aeration or for other oxidation purposes?

355
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Artificial Oxygenation
« on: November 03, 2014, 06:57:01 PM »
2 KClO3(s) → 3 O2(g) + 2 KCl(s) (per Wikipedia) is the reaction gone to completion.  However, based on Wikipedia it sounds like the reaction would evolve oxygen over time not just when you need it. Also lots of bad things can happen like using pure oxygen.

356
Equipment and Software / Re: Laminar Flow Hood for home yeast lab
« on: October 29, 2014, 07:15:24 PM »
Seems like overkill for a hobby, but I used to feel that way about all-grain.  If you are thinking of doing a yeast business, I would take some micro-bio classes before buying this.

357
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Nov/Dec Zymurgy
« on: October 29, 2014, 06:56:55 PM »
I didn't read the article carefully.  Were the beers force-ranked or did the scores reflect a force ranking?

358
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: How Yeast Affects Beer
« on: October 28, 2014, 12:18:57 PM »
This is just such a huge topic.  Yeasts are associated with styles.  Different styles have different characteristics often including characteristics derived from yeast.  Sometimes yeasts from one style are used to make beer of a different style like Belgian IPA - the Belgian yeast provide their characteristic flavors while hops provide their flavor characteristics.  At a beginner level, it is best to think of yeasts and ingredients providing different flavors.  As you get deeper into specific styles of beer, you can then get into the interplay of yeast, ingredients and processes.

Check out  http://www.howtobrew.com/ for some good beginner and some more advanced information.

359
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Replacing kegerator lines
« on: October 28, 2014, 07:31:38 AM »
Antimicrobial has little benefit.  Once you get a deposit of organics on the antimicrobial line like hop particles or yeast then the bugs can live in the deposit.

360
The March/April 2014 article of Zymurgy had an article called "Homebrewing Vintage Beers" in which Patrick Dawson suggests to ferment at higher temps to create esters, phenols and fusels which with enough age will change into desirable flavors.  The author says "Many commercial brewers with vintage beer pedigrees keep their primary fermentation temperatures in the 80s and (very occasionally the 90s)." The only given example of a non-Belgian yeast fermented at higher temps is White Labs WLP002 (English Ale).  I'm interested in fermenting a Russian Imperial Stout at higher temps.  Any yeast recommendations?

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