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Messages - kramerog

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376
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: wort makeup and attenuation
« on: January 11, 2016, 02:11:48 PM »
Thanks all. Sounds like I either didn't get full conversion which I had not considered or had a fermentation problem.

The sample tasted good so I am ok with it. I added 4 oz of sugar, roused the yeast, and raised the temp a bit in attempt get squeeze out a couple more points...
You can have full starch conversion, but still have a dextrinous wort.  You can do a fast ferment test to determine if you have a yeast or mash issue.

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377
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: wort makeup and attenuation
« on: January 11, 2016, 08:06:35 AM »
Malt X has a lot less enzymes than pilsener and Vienna so the wort is more dextrinous.  From what I can glean from the internet, it has barely enough enyzmes to convert so about 1/3 of that of pilsenser and Vienna. 

378
Equipment and Software / Re: Getting hot water in my garage
« on: January 08, 2016, 08:27:36 AM »
If you're water heater is set for 120F, which is IIRC the recommended temp, you won't get scalded.

Some water heaters are set to run at very hot temps, say 180 F, and then there is a blend valve to reduce the temp (generally below scalding temps) before the water is released into the hot water piping.  You wouldn't want to hook up to the water heater in this case, you would want to connect downstream of the blend valve.   

379
Pimp My System / Re: Cellar Brewery
« on: January 07, 2016, 11:43:02 AM »
Exhaust for the zymatic or even a small electric system is really small.  A kitchen range hood could handle that as long as the run of flexible duct is not overly long.  A bathroom exhaust fan would also work.  Enclosing your tun with a shower curtain would improve capture by the exhaust fan

If all you want is some carbon-filtered water to fill your tun, then all you probably need is an ice maker kit and your filters.  A filter kit might come with a saddle valve.

380
Pimp My System / Re: Cellar Brewery
« on: January 07, 2016, 09:38:02 AM »
A few thoughts to get the ball rolling:

- Don't you have a floor drain?  Couldn't you run the sink into the drain?
- If you do an electric system, you only need an exhaust system to move the moisture.  Is there a nearby window you could put a box fan to move the moisture out and another window or door to bring in fresh air.

381
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Translation please!
« on: December 15, 2015, 12:57:38 PM »
Carbonation effects body. Don't ask me how.

382

Did you calculate the concentrations of the various ions?

Yes:

OK. So basically additions were moderate.

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383
Did you calculate the concentrations of the various ions?

384
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: too much salt?
« on: December 11, 2015, 12:41:55 PM »
The water softener isn't working properly or maybe there is some kind of mixing valve in the system blending softened water with  non-softened. 


385
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Adjusting Water for 750 mg/l Hardness?
« on: December 11, 2015, 08:20:06 AM »
750 mg/l of hardness is not the true goal for Heady Topper.  Speculation on homebrew talk indicates that the hardness may be that high for the mash water but the water is very low in minerals for the sparge to arrive at a more sensible overall mineral profile.  I would recommend starting with RO water because your water is too high in chloride to achieve the desired effect.

386
Kegging and Bottling / Re: temperature and carbonation
« on: December 10, 2015, 02:14:17 PM »
Yes.  Also the beer may have been infected causing CO2 to be produced in the can.

387
Kegging and Bottling / Re: temperature and carbonation
« on: December 10, 2015, 02:01:07 PM »
CO2 is more soluble in water when it is colder.

The volumes of dissolved CO2 does not change significantly if canned or bottled beer warms up, but the pressure does increase with warmth sometimes resulting in exploding cans or bottles.

388
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Adjusting Water for 750 mg/l Hardness?
« on: December 10, 2015, 09:53:22 AM »
Portland cement could be useful here if you are not trying to make beer.  I'm not sure why you would want to raise hardness to 750 mg/l for beer purposes.

389
Beer Recipes / Re: Quadruple & the BJCP Guidelines
« on: December 07, 2015, 01:54:36 PM »

Brew it the way you want it; submit it; take a point hit for the color.


+1

390
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: blending two waters
« on: December 04, 2015, 01:27:35 PM »
Since the pH of blended water is pretty much useless info for brewing
Pardon my obvious stupidity but why is that a priori true?

Water, regardless of mineralization (within reason), has essentially no pH buffering capacity. The variables that drive mash pH are the water's residual alkalinity and the inherent acidity of the grist. Two water supplies with vastly different pH, used to mash the same grist, could come out to exactly the same mash pH.
+1.  Mash pH is important, not the pH of the source water.

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