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Messages - kramerog

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421
Hop Growing / Re: Hop selection
« on: March 07, 2014, 07:00:31 PM »
I was thinking Ultra, which is a cross of Saaz and Hallertauer, I think.  Continental-style hops.

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422
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Berline r Wiesse Beer?
« on: March 07, 2014, 06:16:20 PM »
It sounds like this is your first Berliner Weiss.  I recommend souring the wort with lactobacillus and then fermenting with German Ale Yeast.  Berliner Weiss is added at bottling. Which I have not done.  Search the forum for threads on BW for info on sour worting.

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423
Hop Growing / Re: Hop selection
« on: March 06, 2014, 08:57:15 PM »
Chicago is closer to the 45th latitude than Kent, but maybe continental hops would work better.  A friend has had great success with Northern Brewers in Chicago.

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424
Before going to the trouble, I'd do a fast ferment test to determine that you actually have some fermentables left in the Old Ale. If there aren't, you can just blend the finished beers to taste.

Is the fast ferment test basically adding a crap load of yeast to see if the gravity changes?

425
Hop Growing / Re: Hop selection
« on: March 06, 2014, 11:55:51 AM »
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f92/hops-comparison-table-297038/ has a comprehensive listing of hops that are available to be grown.  I have not had success with Goldings in Chicago; I think it is too hot for them.  British Columbia and Kent, where Goldings are grown presumably quite a bit cooler.  I've not had success with Columbus, tastes like an electrical fire; I don't have a theory why the Columbus doesn't taste good although it grows just fine.

426
Good points.  Glad to know that I won't loose the aged flavor which I enjoy.  I just need to reduce the cloying sweetness and balance it better with bitterness.  Also I want to lower the overall alcohol level.

427
Events / Re: NHC Hotels filled up already?
« on: March 06, 2014, 09:51:22 AM »
I haven't received the hotel announcement yet. 

428
Zymurgy / Brewing vintage beers
« on: March 05, 2014, 11:20:12 AM »
"Brewing vintage beers" is a great article in the March/April 2014 Zymurgy.   For example, I learned that high temp. fermentation is particularly helpful in vintage beers.  Typically, I ferment vintage ales at the same temp. as my regular ales.

Anyway, the article didn't touch on the pros and cons of aging in bulk vs. aging in bottles.  The article also didn't touch on pros and cons of regular bottle caps and caps with oxygen barrier when aging in bottles.

Your thoughts?

429
I have an Old Ale that is too sweet.  I'm thinking about brewing a pale bitter and while it is fermenting blending some of the Old Ale in part because I think there are still some fermentables in the Old Ale.  When I add some Old Ale to a fully fermented Scottish Ale made by concentrating some of the first runnings, the Old Ale  completely takes over the flavor.  If I referment the Old Ale with the pale bitter will the refermentation reduce the aged flavors of the Old Ale or is the Old Ale likely to take over again (althought the pale bitter will have some balancing bitterness)?

430
The Pub / Re: Fat Tuesday
« on: March 05, 2014, 08:04:08 AM »
Deodorant?

431
Homebrew Clubs / Re: Bottles with logos for NHC comp?
« on: March 05, 2014, 07:45:46 AM »
You may be barred from NHC, but in my experience, Sam Adams bottles are not rejected from other homebrew competitions because they are so ubiquitous.

432
Beer Recipes / Re: Adjusting bitterness post-fermentation
« on: March 04, 2014, 10:33:52 AM »
I have tried adding bitterness by making a 1-gal batch of beer to add to a 5-gal batch of beer and that was helpful.  If you just want to add some hopped water, it'll be difficult to get a big IBU increase without dilution becoming a concern.  You can play around with some brewing software to see what I mean.

The gypsum or the isomerized extract sound like better plans. 



433
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Jockey Box Build / Coldplate Help
« on: March 03, 2014, 02:31:17 PM »
A recent zymurgy had an article about jockey boxes.  Tubing is better than cold plates if you want to serve a lot of beer.    Post-mix costs more than pre-mix because post mix involves cooling water separately from soda syrup and mixing the two in the spigot or in the cup. 


434
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Saisons on Acid
« on: February 28, 2014, 01:53:03 PM »
The pH may actually be below 4 because the strip bottomed out.  Take a sample of the beer (~10 ml) and measure the pH.  Now add a drop of StarSan to the sample, stir and take pH.  If the pH reading didn't change the strip is bottomed out and the pH could be below 4.

OR you could measure the pH with a pH strip for wine.

I've used calcium carbonate before.  A little bit goes a long way.  Unless you've get a scale that is good to a fractions of a gram it'll be hard to test adding calcium carbonate to a small sample of beer and then scale up for the whole batch. 

You can add a little calcium carbonate (purchase at wine store with pH strips for wine) and add maybe a 1/10th of a tsp of calcium carbonate, shake your fermenter a bunch, and see how much the pH changes.  You will probably get a lot of CO2 coming off both from the fermentation and from the neutralization of the calcium carbonate.  It is very easy to overshoot the additions as the pH can suddenly change as you approach a "tipping point."

You could probably also get some good advice from your local wine supply as adjusting the pH of wine is fairly standard.

435
All Things Food / Re: Spent grain energy bars
« on: February 28, 2014, 10:07:06 AM »
Would you eat this instead of trail mix on a hike or instead of a clif bar on a century ride?

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