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Messages - kramerog

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436
would a tranfer to secondary help with this problem? Getting the beer off of the yeast cake...

If you are getting the eggy sulfur smell, a transfer to secondary can be helpful as the eggy odor will be stripped out by the carbon dioxide that will be lost during the transfer.  However, getting the beer off the yeast cake is generally not helpful for green home brews as the yeast reabsorbs some undesirable taste/odor compounds at the end of primary fermentation like diacetyl.

437
A possibility is that you are smelling DMS, a sulfur-containing compound that smells like canned corn or a corn refinery, or that the yeast reduce DMS to hydrogen sulfide, which has the classical eggy sulfur smell.  You may not be boiling enough to drive out all the DMS-precursor compounds since you are using a Pils malt and you missed your post-boil gravity. 

438
Going forward, please remove your johnson from any beers.

439
They pulverize their malt and then run it through a mash press to maximize brewhouse efficiency too.

440
When I looked briefly at the calculator earlier this week, it appeared to have a mash pH estimation option based on the same premises as Bru'n water.  These mash pH calcs are based like Bru'n water on the grain bill, color contributions of the malts and type of malts (base, caramel, roasted, acidulated).  I would be surprised if Bru'n water and Kai's calculator at this time provide different significantly different results.

Ease of use could be a difference maker here.

441
All Grain Brewing / Re: What is an adequate wort boil time
« on: January 30, 2013, 03:59:31 PM »
I think your gravity is a little low for a starter.  My starters are usually 1.040.

442
Commercial Beer Reviews / Index for Commercial Calibration in Zymurgy
« on: January 30, 2013, 02:24:54 PM »
Is their an index of beers tasted in the Commercial Calibration article of Zymurgy?  It would make it a lot easier to practice tasting for the BJCP exam.

443
When the recipe editor becomes integrated with the brewing water calculator, I'll give this a try.

444
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling a Barleywine
« on: January 30, 2013, 08:52:14 AM »
Adding the rehydrated yeast with your carbonation sugar and then mix.

445
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Free rise temp for Belgian strong?
« on: January 29, 2013, 09:24:44 AM »
In Brew like a Monk, some of the monasteries allow free rise into the 80s without ill effect apparently.  IIRC, Belgian yeasts generally produce much lower fusel levels than English yeasts.  Caveat: these generalities may not apply to Wyeast 3787 Trappist High gravity.

446
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Shipping Beer
« on: January 25, 2013, 09:04:54 AM »
Since it isn't clear that you can legally transport homebrew in certain, perhaps many states (ahem Illinois), I'm not sure why Fed Ex or UPS would want to knowingly transport homebrew.  Let's focus on making transportation of homebrew legal first.

447
Homebrew Competitions / Re: NHC Competition question...
« on: January 24, 2013, 03:37:49 PM »
A steel cage match sounds fair.  I think the steel cage match is why Jamil and Gordon are no longer shooting for the Ninkasi.

448
Homebrew Competitions / Re: NHC Competition question...
« on: January 24, 2013, 03:07:31 PM »
Boo to the coin flip.  If the other 6  tiebreakers can't determine a winner then we should have tie.

449
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Yeast nutrient
« on: January 24, 2013, 01:31:53 PM »
I have a generic "yeast nutrient" that supplies nitrogen and phosphorous.  I have a generic "yeast energizer" that supplies vitamins and trace minerals including zinc.  Generally, I don't use either except for meads.  I might use the energizer for my next saison that uses the finicky Dupont yeast, which I have not worked with before, and for very big beers, which need more zinc apparently.

450
Equipment and Software / Re: Warming Fermenters a Few Degrees
« on: January 23, 2013, 01:33:07 PM »
Standard $ 25-35 aquarium heaters have temperature ranges that do not go much below 70 F.  The one I have theoretically goes down to 65 F but in fact goes down only as far as 67 F.  Maybe you could use a water bath for your ales and put your lager into your fermenter? 

I've never used the timer Denny refers to, but I can imagine that it would work.

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