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Messages - kramerog

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46
All Grain Brewing / Re: Pilsner Malt question
« on: February 05, 2015, 08:43:23 AM »
Doesn't the bohemian have a higher sms content (Dms precursor)?

If the floor malted Bo Pils from Weyermann was used then you may be right.

47
All Grain Brewing / Re: Pilsner Malt question
« on: February 05, 2015, 08:13:15 AM »
DMS, a sulfur compound, is driven off during the boil and is more prevalent in pilsener malts.  Without knowing exactly what you are smelling it is hard for me to rule out DMS as an issue.  DMS is the a sulfury smell that I get during the boil. Finishing the fermentation warm may help.

Palmer has a good explanation of DMS at http://www.howtobrew.com/section4/chapter21-2.html

48
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: bru'n water alkalinity
« on: February 04, 2015, 05:20:45 PM »
The question is mmol/l of what?  I'm not sure what the water reporting conventions in Europe are - I seem to remember that homoeccentricus lives in Belgium - so perhaps Martin can help you or you can go back to your water utility for more info. 

49
Equipment and Software / Re: Grain Dust/ Sampling
« on: February 04, 2015, 04:58:33 PM »
I believe the grain dust would be considered a nuisance dust unless you are pulverising your grains.

50
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Oatmeal in a Whiskey Barrel Stout
« on: February 04, 2015, 01:24:12 PM »
Cooked steel cut oatmeal will work.  Your beer may end up noticeably cloudy because the dissolved starch will form a haze, but may not be noticeable if your beer is dark enough.  8 oz is a reasonable amount.

51
Other Fermentables / Re: Storing opened wine kit
« on: February 03, 2015, 03:16:55 PM »
Ferment seems like the way to go.  You could ferment the concentrate or dilute and then ferment.  I would tend to ferment the concentrate or partially dilute the concentrate so that there is a lot of sugar left to be fermented by the saison yeast.

Edit:  I would use a non-killer wine yeast for the fermentation so there is no chance of the wine yeast taking over the saison.  There are some possibilities of getting interesting other flavors by selecting a wine yeast.

52
Other Fermentables / Re: Storing opened wine kit
« on: February 03, 2015, 01:57:39 PM »
A massive sulfite dose plus refrigeration would likely work. Any idea on the solid content of the wine syrup?  Is it thick like malt extract?  If so, the pH and sugar content would likely stop a spontaneous fermentation and the sulfite and refrigeration are insurance policies plus the sulfite is an antioxidant.

You might have to add your wine syrup to fermenting beer over a couple of days so that the sulfite dissipates rather than stopping the fermentation. 

53
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pellicle identification
« on: February 03, 2015, 08:20:10 AM »
The difference between a flat pellicle and the white balloony bubbles are only bubbles.  If there is no off-gassing then bubbles do not form in the pellicle and the pellicle stays flat.  I have not observed colorful ridges.  I have not seen differences in pellicle between lacto and Brett. My 2 cents.

54
All Grain Brewing / Re: High gravity efficiency troubles
« on: February 02, 2015, 09:14:29 PM »
The BJCP guidelines indicate for both American and English barleywines generally have "a lengthy boil."

55
All Grain Brewing / Re: The End of the 60 minute mash???
« on: February 02, 2015, 01:32:42 PM »
Yes, have heard this in commercial brewing, but the time vorlaufing did not come into play.  Put the total time more like 35-45 min.

Mash in and vorlauf usually takes a lot more time in a commercial brewery than in a home brewery so commercial mash times by themselves are quite misleading.

Also what may be true with 2-row may not be true of adjuncts depending on gelatinization, insoluble protein content, etc.

56
All Grain Brewing / Re: High gravity efficiency troubles
« on: February 02, 2015, 12:53:41 PM »
The other way to improve efficiency is to use more sparge water and do a longer boil to boil off the extra sparge water.  I have seen comments that English barleywines typically involve a long boil which develops some of their flavor and color.

Typically, I make a first runnings barelywine and a low alcohol second runnings beer when making all malt beers.

57
The Pub / Re: Elysian Just sold to Anheuser-Busch
« on: January 23, 2015, 12:11:52 PM »
I have a homebrewery for sale, home not included. 

58
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Leaking Regulator
« on: January 22, 2015, 11:10:34 AM »
It seems to me that you could have have a leak anywhere at or upstream of the valve between the regulator and the gas manifold.  My experience with my regulator is that the high pressure gauge will read 0 when it couldn't possibly be less than the psi reading of my low pressure gauge.

The one time I had a leak it was along the stem of the tank valve.  I tightened the nut at the top handle and the leak stopped.

Good luck!

59
Will an enamel-coated ruler withstand near-boliling temps if I measure volume post-boil?

I use a coated, yellow ruler bought at one of the big box stores.  I don't know what the coating is, but it doesn't come off. 


I read about brewers using S/S yardsticks to measure depth and compute volume.  Will an enamel-coated ruler withstand near-boliling temps if I measure volume post-boil?

I find measuring from the bottom to be better than measuring from the top for accuracy but I haven't changed any of the calibrations I have done where I measured from the top. 

60
Equipment and Software / Re: Heat displacement
« on: January 15, 2015, 12:39:06 PM »
Aluminum foil can be a very effective heat shield.  I think roofing tin would work better.  I use it roofing tin as a flame shield but the tin has to stay out of contact from the flames. 

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