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Messages - kramerog

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46
Ingredients / Re: Boiling on the Zymatic to dechlorinate
« on: January 27, 2017, 01:18:43 PM »
Just taking a quick glance, I don't think that boiling would have much effect on your water composition because I don't see carbonates in your water profile.  Did you see any hard water scum after boiling?

FYI, I smell chlorine in my hot liquor tank, but I haven't had problems with chlorine or chlorophenols in the final product.  I do know that the chlorine levels are reliably low in my water supply.  I do let the chlorine dissipate overnight and heat up the mash and sparge water uncovered.

47
All Grain Brewing / Re: Technique Help - Dark Grains at Vorlauf
« on: January 27, 2017, 01:07:51 PM »
Being consistent is probably more important than the actual timing.  If you don't mill the dark malts, I would add about ten minutes from when you drain the mash.  Having said that I've used the late-addition technique but I've been persuaded by this forum to not do so and instead control mash pH.

48
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Historical Beer Category - Heather Ale
« on: January 25, 2017, 07:41:54 PM »
The judges misjudged your beer by requiring it to have hop character.

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49
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Historical Beer Category - Heather Ale
« on: January 25, 2017, 04:35:06 PM »
I could be wrong but I think most competitions limit how many characters in the description required forms. Think of the judge, they've got to do one of these every six minutes... good job, but now try to boil it down to a twitter version

The competition entry software is likely very limited.  I know because I've had difficulty entering a spiced sour into competition because of the limited space available to describe the 2 spices and 2 bacteria involved.

While historical may be the best style designation in theory, for practicality spice, herb, vegetable beer based on a Scottish ale makes more sense to me unless you can get the competition organizer to pass on the guidelines to the judges in advance.

What you have written should be submitted to the BJCP for inclusion in the next guidelines.

50
Going Pro / Re: Raising Funds for Startup Brewery
« on: January 25, 2017, 01:26:01 PM »
If you are a member of the AHA, you can access the 2015 seminar "Panel: Taking Homebrewing to the Pro Level, From Concept and Design Through Opening" and the 2014 seminar "Top 10 Legal Mistakes Start-Up Breweries Make" which both discuss raising funds legally.  There are also books on going pro that most likely discuss raising funds legally.

51
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Old bottles
« on: January 25, 2017, 08:29:27 AM »
  You could just fill them most of the way with water, then dose each bottle with Oxyclean to loosen the crud.  Then hit them with a bottle blaster and follow up with a bottle brush.  If the case was closed, chances are that there's not too much junk in there.  However, I doubt the bottles were rinsed before storing, so they could have some extreme crusty mold going on.  Good luck!

Or make oxyclean or b-brite solution and pour into bottles.  Returnable bottles are pretty hard to break.

52
All Grain Brewing / Re: Making Norther Brewers "Off the Topper" Juicy?
« on: January 24, 2017, 12:26:05 PM »
Couple methods that seem to work well for that "juicy" character.

1.) High Chloride to Sulfate ratio (Opposite of what we would typically do)
2.) Flaked wheat or oats (up to 10%)
3.) Yeast that leave a slight ester (Gigayeast Vermont Ale, Omega DIPA)
4.) Most, if not all hops added between whirlpool and dry hop (Stick with tropical fruit forward hops such as Citra, Mosaic, Galaxy, etc...)
5.) Drink fresh!!
Generally agree with above. Below is my $0.02:
1) > 100 ppm chloride
3) London Ale III is pretty typical
5) Fresh can be a long time if careful to avoid oxygen exposure once fermentation get's going.
6) Dry hopping towards the end of active fermentation and dry hopping again after active fermentation, preferably in keg.

53
Ingredients / Re: Adding spices during fermentation
« on: January 23, 2017, 07:41:31 AM »
I typically don't bag the spices, but I usually bag the racking can.  Some spices are really good at clogging bottle fillers.

54
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Factors controlling attentuation
« on: January 19, 2017, 06:53:07 PM »
True, but shy of making invert from scratch it seemed the best option at the time. Unfermentables in invert would convince me to find some way to buy real invert, or make my own.
If you are making invert no. 3, I think you have to neutralize the acid after inversion and to continue heating until the desired color is achieved.  I haven't had success with heating without neutralization. Let me know what your friend thinks.


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55
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Factors controlling attentuation
« on: January 19, 2017, 06:43:05 PM »
Also true dark invert syrups don't ferment dry. 

That's the other variable that I've been wondering about. I've been using Lyle's Golden Syrup, cut with blackstrap molasses as per the unholy mess approximations.

A friend from work makes his own candi and invert syrups for brewing...I may try his methods and see how they work.
The unholymess approximations don't make sense to me.  Nobody says if you are short on caramel 60, blend caramel 20 and 120.

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56
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Factors controlling attentuation
« on: January 19, 2017, 06:27:26 PM »
When doing Ron's recipes, twice now, I mash for 60 minutes at the suggested temp and they fall into the ballpark.  Also true dark invert syrups don't ferment dry. 

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57
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hazy Helles
« on: January 18, 2017, 05:56:19 PM »
Some experimentation on NE IPAs indicates that chlorides at 100+ ppm prevents some yeast from dropping out.  It is unclear what yeast strains are affected.   

58
The Pub / Re: IPA Ginger Boiler Maker
« on: January 18, 2017, 04:28:26 PM »
IPA & gin has not done it for me.

59
All Grain Brewing / Re: 2 vessel brewing - sparge questions
« on: January 18, 2017, 03:18:04 PM »
I don't see any draining step before steps 7 and 8, so you aren't doing a sparge.

Two approaches to sparging, drain the mash tun before sparging and you are batch sparging.  Simultaneous draining and sparging, you are fly sparging.

In step 7, you should vorlauf by recirculating wort from the mash drain top back to the top of the mash tun.

60
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash out questions
« on: January 18, 2017, 11:15:56 AM »
Starting with a temp of 148 F and mashing for 90 minutes I would think that you would already have a wort with high apparent attention and it would be too late to retain much residual extract i.e. Elvis has already left the building. Comments please!
Yup.


Mashing out tends to produce a slightly higher gravity  (~2% boost) as not all the starch gelatinizes at standard single infusion mash temperatures.  If you gradually increase mash temp to 168 F, you don't need to rest at 168.  Similarly, if you increase wort temperature to 168 F, you don't need to rest afterwards.

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