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Messages - kramerog

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: blending two waters
« on: December 04, 2015, 08:40:25 AM »
There is probably no simple answer other than who cares.  If your "friend" is blending waters for brewing the pH is generally unimportant.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: how to "improve" "finished" beer?
« on: December 01, 2015, 11:42:35 AM »
Lactic or phosphoric acid can be added to acidify the beer.  I have not heard of people trying to increase the pH in finished beer but calcium carbonate, calcium hydroxide and calcium oxide should work.  The quantities to be used should be small, ml or g amounts, assuming a proper mash pH was achieved.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Brü's Views | On Craft Brewery Buyouts
« on: November 26, 2015, 11:02:47 AM »
My issue with these buyouts is that the value of the buyouts to the buyer is that the buyer can take an up and coming brand and then distribute it over their much wider network putting other craft brewers at a significant disadvantage.  Since the distribution networks are highly regulated, I wonder if there is a way the state governments can do anything to not put the remaining craft brewers at such a disadvantage such as raising the volumes allowed under self-distribution.

All Grain Brewing / Re: High gravity brewing manipulations
« on: November 24, 2015, 01:06:11 PM »
Below my signature line is a link to a calculator for parti-gyle mashing.  Most of the credit for the calculator goes to the Kaiser, but I made a tweak and a correction.  My plan this weekend is to make RIS of 1.100 with the first running (OG 1.080) and a 1.049 American stout with the second runnings with the addition of roasted barley to the the mash after the first runoff.

LME often has an extract twang so I avoid it.  DME dissolves easiest around 120 F.  At some point above that temp,  DME will clump.  The lightest color is generally best; basically you are just trying to add fermentables, not the unknown specialty grains incorporated in the darker extracts.

You are on the right track. 

Edit: Corrected LME and DME

The lower FG on the finer crush seems intuitive to me although I would not have predicted it before the experiment. By grinding the malt into flour, the starches are more quickly exposed to the enzymes resulting in more attenuation. 

Ingredients / Re: Adding sugar to primary
« on: November 18, 2015, 05:02:12 PM »
I have always just put the sugar in during the boil.

If you add the sugar during fermentation, do you need to stir the beer or just toss it in with a wide spread?
The sugar will dissolve over a few days depending on whether the ferment is stirring the beer for you.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: fermenting lager in a keg
« on: November 12, 2015, 09:50:41 AM »
If the lid of your corny has a pressure relief valve it might safely vent the pressure, but it isn't wise to rely on it as the primary way to prevent the keg from exploding. 

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: fermenting lager in a keg
« on: November 12, 2015, 09:16:02 AM »

For fermentation, remove the gas side's short dip tube. Attach the "Gas In" disconnect to the "in" post on the keg. Now slip the tubing onto the hose barb of the disconnect. Fill your jar or growler about half full with a solution of the sanitizer of your choice. Insert the other end of the tubing in the growler and you're ready to go.

and even not do the blowoff at all?

The quoted BYO instructions provide blowoff.  Am I missing something?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: pH meters...
« on: November 12, 2015, 08:00:48 AM »
Maybe I'll get a pH meter eventually.  I worked in a chemistry lab and also did some field chemistry and found pH meters to be a pain so I have never used them for brewing.

Ingredients / Re: Adding sugar to primary
« on: November 12, 2015, 07:56:52 AM »
I added 1/4 lb of granulated sugar during active fermentation this week and got an overflow.  Normally I wait until the fermentation subsides more to avoid this issue.

Ingredients / Re: Need help with Brun water
« on: November 11, 2015, 01:24:01 PM »
Grodziskies are smokey, but not sour.

I saw the lactic acid and the saur malz so I presumed the beer to be sour.  Isn't there a sour, smoky beer?

Ingredients / Re: Need help with Brun water
« on: November 11, 2015, 12:06:32 PM »
The number one thing is to get the right mash pH.  I don't see a mash pH listed.

The general consensus here is not to chase the water that is traditionally used to make the beer style.  I would almost never add magnesium because of the possibility of metallic off flavors.   Chloride and sulfate levels can be important but sulfate doesn't seem likely to be important in a sour beer unless it is to provide a little more sourness.  I try to avoid salt - I don't just mean NaCl - additions to avoid saltiness in sours.

My $0.02 but I don't know much about Gratzers.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: mason canning jars for bottling
« on: November 10, 2015, 05:19:17 PM »
Try soda bottles instead.  They are designed for higher pressure than beer bottles.

Ingredients / Carafa Dehusked/Special and Bru'n Water
« on: November 09, 2015, 11:15:00 AM »
If I assume that carafa dehusked/special is a roasted malt, will Bru'n water be reasonably accurate?  Since dehusked carafa is not nearly as roasty as regular roasted malts, it seems that dehusked carafa could also be less acidic than regular roasted malts.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Thoughts/Advice on Parti-Gyle Brewing
« on: November 06, 2015, 07:17:33 PM »
Sure if the only difference between the two worts pre-boil is strength than blending 1st and 2nd runnings is simplest.  However the difference bedtween a RIS and a regular stout is not just stregth.  They have different grain bills.

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