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Messages - kramerog

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601
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash vessel size
« on: July 17, 2014, 09:21:06 AM »
I use a 50 qt rectangular cooler for my 10 gal system, which was a big improvement over my 10-gal round cooler.  I can do 7% beers no problem.  Above that, I generally do parti gyle or use sugar for drier big beers.

602
Ingredients / Re: Sourcing Phosphoric Acid
« on: July 15, 2014, 09:16:15 AM »

603
All Grain Brewing / Re: RO system design
« on: July 14, 2014, 10:43:43 AM »
I think DI (deionization) and 0 TDS (total dissolved solids) is overkill.  DI is laboratory grade stuff.  I don't spec RO systems so I'm not sure where the price points vs. specs are.

604
Equipment and Software / Re: Cheap Temperature Control
« on: July 11, 2014, 06:15:35 PM »
Water baths are especially great if ambient is cooler than what you want for fermentation.  Stick a small and cheap aquarium heater in there and you are good.

Sent from my SGH-T839 using Tapatalk 2


605
Other Fermentables / Re: Adding unfermented cider to a Keg?
« on: July 10, 2014, 05:12:50 PM »
Need more info!  I find that fresh cider, non-pasteurized and non-stabilized, will ferment on its own in the fridge.  If what you are planning to use is stabilized or pasteurized, I would expect it be a long time before there is fermentation. 

Sent from my SGH-T839 using Tapatalk 2


606
Kegging and Bottling / Re: leaking Co2 connections
« on: July 09, 2014, 02:33:55 PM »
Reading other comments on the internet, the problem with using teflon tape relates to the high pressure provided by the tank upstream of the regulator.  Downstream of the regulator at the much lower pressures used for dispensing and carbonating beer, teflon tape doesn't seem to be an issue for pipe threads.

607
Kegging and Bottling / Re: leaking Co2 connections
« on: July 09, 2014, 01:47:13 PM »
There are reasons to not use teflon thread.  http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=826326  But they don't seem to apply to connections downstream of the regulator.


608
Ingredients / Re: Green malt
« on: July 07, 2014, 07:15:51 AM »
It's going to be highly enzymatic with no drying our kilning. Which is why I imagine distillers would use it. Particularly if you are trying to convert 51% corn mash
So maybe it would improve sugar extraction in a mash?

In a 100% malt beer it is unlikely to improve extraction but would likely increase attenuation with a lower temp mash, possibly dramatically, as green malt should have much higher amounts of beta-amylase and limit dextrinase.

In an adjunct mash, it might also improve extraction.

Green malt likely will have a ton of the DMS precursor.

609
Equipment and Software / Re: Spiedels
« on: July 07, 2014, 07:03:45 AM »
I have never used a Spiedel fermenter, so excuse my ignorance.  However 30 l = ~ 8 gal.

610
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Can I predict finial beer PH?
« on: July 02, 2014, 12:07:59 PM »
How are you adjusting mash pH?  How long was the steep?  A good steep should reduce the need for bittering hops.

It looks too me that your water has low inherent buffering capacity.  Adding minerals for buffering could overcome that but would likely result in a minerally flavor.  I agree with making a post-fermentation pH adjustment, but it may already be too late to restore the desired hop character.  In any case, you could use the data gained from your post-fermentation pH adjustment to make a preemptive adjustment at the start of fermentation to prevent loss of hop oils during fermentation.

You could also change yeasts and see what happens.

As to entering into competition, I doubt the judges would be able to give you good feedback about changing your recipe/process as they don't know what your recipe and process was. 

611


Did you use gypsum/calcium sulfate?  Gypsum can add a sour note. 
 

Really - I did not know that about gypsum.  Is there a threshold level in terms of ppm where that is exhibited?  I am now building from RO each brew, so it would be good to know on hoppy beers where the line could be crossed.

I'm not sure where the line is crossed.  I get dry rather than sour when making PAs and IPAs with up to 200 mg/l of sulfate.  I get sour in Old Speckled Hen rather than dry.  There is probably an interaction between the amount of sulfate and the pH of the beer, i.e., if the pH is low (possibly due to fermentation or yeast characteristics), the sulfate is more noticeable.  Also sweetness plays a role.

612
I'm guessing the pantyhose was on the discharge end of the hose.  Try putting it on the inlet end.  You shouldn't get any clogging on the inlet end.

Did you use gypsum/calcium sulfate?  Gypsum can add a sour note. 
 

613
Events / Re: 2014 NHC Grand Rapids Review
« on: June 18, 2014, 06:56:49 AM »
Re: the sound...if they would have flown a small line array to focus the sound it would have gone a long way.  The small JBL speakers they had distributed around the room just made things worse.

One person reoriented one of the JBL speakers apparently because it was too loud for him as he was sitting next to it.  For most of the Banquet, I couldn't understand a thing; all I could here was echoes.  When the speaker was reoriented, I could suddenly understand everything.

614
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast 1728 Scottish Ale
« on: June 17, 2014, 07:38:55 AM »
Wouldn't it have something to do with the malting process?  Back 200 years ago, they would have used peat to fire the furnaces and kiln the grain.  All of the malt would have been slightly, but unintentionally, peat smoky, right?

I'm not sure that's something that could be proven.  At least, I've never seen any solid evidence of it.

Ron Pattinson said at NHC 2014 that back in the day all the Scottish breweries malted their own malt.  The malt would most likely have been malted near the breweries.  All the breweries were located in the lowlands where coal was plentiful and peat is not economical to transport because of its poor heating value.  Thus he concludes that it is highly unlikely that peat was used to make malt for beer.

On the other hand the Scotch distilleries are located where peat is plentiful. 

615
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Cool rehydrated yeast prior to pitching?
« on: June 17, 2014, 07:30:18 AM »
I usually  rehydrate between 80 and 84 F.  Usually after 1/2 an hour, I pitch to wort without additional cooling expecting the sample to have cooled off anyway.  If the starter takes off, I often add some cooled wort primarily to feed the starter.  I suspect that I may have checked starter temps before pitching a few times and concluded it wasn't necessary to cool down. 

If I rehydrated at ~100 F, I would probably cool the starter down.

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