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Messages - kramerog

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Ingredients / Re: Simplifying Recipes...
« on: May 14, 2015, 10:12:15 AM »
1 - You probably don't need to change anything to have good head retention.
2- For high malty styles, you can drop your other base malts.  On the other hand, even simple beer recipes can have two base malts.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Making it smooth
« on: May 14, 2015, 09:54:23 AM »
Guinness is partially soured so Guinness goes away from the conventional wisdom of higher pH being better in stouts. I subscribe to the conventional wisdom here even though I like sours.  Flaked barley and low carbonation  contribute significantly to the silky smooth character of Guinness.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Is a scratched cooler mash tun a problem?
« on: May 14, 2015, 07:47:25 AM »
I would be concerned with cracks which are impossible to clean and dry quickly.  Scratches can be cleaned and dried well enough.

I'm letting it ride.  I'm also trying to get the wort up to 70 F. 

I made 4 gal of wort at 1.043 and mixed in 2.5 gal of a previously fermented wort (the other wort has its own thread but I was hoping for the fresh fermentation to clean up some things in the previously fermented wort - I'm going to skip the details but it has its own whole topic and pitched 1 qt of Brett Lambicus starter Sunday evening and another quart of Brett Lambicus starter Tuesday evening.  It is now Wednesday evening and I don't see any signs of fermentation.  The primary is being maintained at  67 F.  I could pitch some dry yeast that I have on hand but I am interested in alternatives.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Food Grade CO2
« on: May 13, 2015, 11:09:51 AM »
Food grade tanks are properly purged by the dealer and then refilled.  Welding grade tanks are typically refilled without purging.  The carbon dioxide going into the tanks is the same, but what comes out could be different because of the differing purge procedures.  I use welding gas grade.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Third trip around the sun with a Solera
« on: May 12, 2015, 08:17:38 AM »
Don't you risk mold if you wrap the barrel in plastic?

All Grain Brewing / Re: Water mineral content with mashing
« on: May 11, 2015, 07:23:53 AM »
Eyeballing your numbers, your water is probably going to make pretty good beer without any adjustments due to the middle of the road alkalinity.  Bru'n water is the way to go to dial in your pH and flavor ions for ales.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Help with bugs
« on: May 08, 2015, 09:06:21 PM »
Out of sheer curiosity I would probably see what the pH is. If it was below 4.5 I might taste it.

Any idea if the beer is fully fermented? If it had been left at ambient temps, I would think it would be safe by now if the pH is below 4.5.  IIRC, the mad fermentationist said after 3 months a wild fermented beer should be safe.  Googling his site, I didn't see where he said that but you might be interested in this article:

If it tastes OK (spit don't swallow), consider adding fresh wort so you have a 1/2 gallon to 1 gallon of this stuff.  Let it ferment at room temp for several months.  In the meantime confirm if what I remember about when it is safe to drink these things is correct.

Ingredients / Re: How do you get chalk to dissove in brew water?
« on: May 07, 2015, 02:35:25 PM »
After reading the thread again, I would use RO for the bulk of your water because the malt extract manufacturer already adjusted the pH for you.  I would also do the mini-mash with RO or mildly alkaline tap water because the mini-mash pH will probably fall in the ball park of where you want to be and because adjusting the mini-mash pH would involve very small salt additions which aren't convenient to measure accurately without a lab scale. 

Ingredients / Re: How do you get chalk to dissove in brew water?
« on: May 07, 2015, 11:43:39 AM »
Munich has to be mashed.  Don't use a Munich water profile on purpose, build the water to get the desired mash pH and flavor characteristics.  Use soda or food grade pickling lime (CaO) rather than chalk because chalk is difficult to dissolve without sufficient acidity.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Carbonation for beginners
« on: May 07, 2015, 08:06:18 AM »
What you are saying sounds right but lengthening your lines would work better so the pressure for your desired carbonation level is that same as your service pressure, say 10 psi.  The formula for line length is very approximate so it is better to get too much line which causes the flow to be very slow and then shorten the line until a proper pour is achieved.  My lines are about 10 feet long using the "standard" plastic tubing of "standard" homebrewing diameter.  (Standard really means typical and also means I don't remember what it is).

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Equation for Bottle CO2 Volumes
« on: May 06, 2015, 11:51:27 AM »
When I carbonated to 3 v/v, some of the long neck bottles cracked. 

It will be interesting to see who will be the first major competition to use the new guidelines and how smooth it goes.  I'm guessing that NHC2016 will be using the new guidelines then?

"The BJCP expects that by the end of 2015, all competitions will use the 2015 guidelines."

I really hope that I passed the BJCP exam in February otherwise I'm going to have to study a lot more.

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