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Messages - kramerog

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Beer Recipes / Re: Hefe + Berliner Weisse big batch
« on: May 20, 2015, 03:06:04 PM »
I've never bothered with heating to 170° but you can if you want. 

I don't pasteurize my wort for making a BW nowadays, but for a newbie to making a BW I didn't want to make any "radical" recommendations.

Beer Recipes / Re: Hefe + Berliner Weisse big batch
« on: May 20, 2015, 11:46:26 AM »
I would be concerned about DMS if doing a short boil.  Many folks including me have success not boiling a BW.   You can heat your wort to 170F, hold it there for 15-30 minutes, take a portion to make your BW and continue with the HW as normal.

I'm not sure that DMS is actually a big concern if you have enough acidity in a BW, but developing lots of acidity in a BW is a whole other topic.

Dilution with RO should have almost no affect on mash pH so go ahead and do it.

The Pub / Re: Tapatalk hosed?
« on: May 20, 2015, 07:07:13 AM »
Me too.  Tapatalk is working for my other forums.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: How to Pump Prime your bottled beer.
« on: May 18, 2015, 07:15:26 PM »
This is pretty ingenious.  I use sugar cubes to carbonate the extra beer that doesn't fit in a keg.  The few times I tried it, it worked well but desired carbonation has to match the amount of sugar and the sugar cube preferably fits down the neck of the bottle.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Grain performance question
« on: May 18, 2015, 07:04:40 PM »
If you want to adjust the gravity do it late into the boil after measuring the gravity.  Don't try to adjust it ahead of time based on the notion that your efficiency will suffer because your grains are old.

I do whenever it is convenient.  If my dry yeast is hydrated before I've aerated, I'll pitch first.  For "big" beers, I'll aerate again the next day.  I also aerate when racking to the fermenter, add yeast and then aerate gain by swirling the fermenter

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Fermentation Schedule while Kegging
« on: May 15, 2015, 12:02:25 PM »
The risk is that after you carbonate the beer you (or someone else) notice flaws that were not apparent when the beer was flat and that would have gone away with more fermentation time. 

I came home this evening and the fermentation lock was still not going.  However, there was pellicle so I'm good to go now.  The two other times I did an all-Brett beer, the ferment had visibly started in about 2 days, but I realize now that I did a relatively smaller pitch this time.

Ingredients / Re: Simplifying Recipes...
« on: May 14, 2015, 10:12:15 AM »
1 - You probably don't need to change anything to have good head retention.
2- For high malty styles, you can drop your other base malts.  On the other hand, even simple beer recipes can have two base malts.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Making it smooth
« on: May 14, 2015, 09:54:23 AM »
Guinness is partially soured so Guinness goes away from the conventional wisdom of higher pH being better in stouts. I subscribe to the conventional wisdom here even though I like sours.  Flaked barley and low carbonation  contribute significantly to the silky smooth character of Guinness.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Is a scratched cooler mash tun a problem?
« on: May 14, 2015, 07:47:25 AM »
I would be concerned with cracks which are impossible to clean and dry quickly.  Scratches can be cleaned and dried well enough.

I'm letting it ride.  I'm also trying to get the wort up to 70 F. 

I made 4 gal of wort at 1.043 and mixed in 2.5 gal of a previously fermented wort (the other wort has its own thread but I was hoping for the fresh fermentation to clean up some things in the previously fermented wort - I'm going to skip the details but it has its own whole topic and pitched 1 qt of Brett Lambicus starter Sunday evening and another quart of Brett Lambicus starter Tuesday evening.  It is now Wednesday evening and I don't see any signs of fermentation.  The primary is being maintained at  67 F.  I could pitch some dry yeast that I have on hand but I am interested in alternatives.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Food Grade CO2
« on: May 13, 2015, 11:09:51 AM »
Food grade tanks are properly purged by the dealer and then refilled.  Welding grade tanks are typically refilled without purging.  The carbon dioxide going into the tanks is the same, but what comes out could be different because of the differing purge procedures.  I use welding gas grade.

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