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Messages - kramerog

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The Pub / Re: Be glad....
« on: February 03, 2014, 12:24:24 PM »
What's worse is that the testing probably involved a Thermapen too.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Quantity vs. OG
« on: February 03, 2014, 11:10:09 AM »
Mixing would be the first suspect.  A second suspect is that you need to correct your OG for temperature.  Hydrometers are generally calibrated for 60 or 68 F.  If the wort was 80 F, for example, there would be a large upwards correction.

Equipment and Software / Re: Thermapen Open Box sale
« on: January 31, 2014, 05:34:33 PM »
Why get a Thermapen when there are other instruments from Thermoworks that are just as accurate and FAR less expensive?

I feel the need for speed!

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All Grain Brewing / Re: First All Grain Brew ... Advice?
« on: January 31, 2014, 01:54:55 PM »
I probably sound like a noob, but what do you mean plenty of O2?
Aerate the wort before adding yeast to promote healthy fermention. There are various methods. Rock the fermenter back and forth, stir vigorously if it's in a bucket, inject air with an aquarium pump if you're higher tech, or use an O2 tank if you're really slick.

Open fermentation for a few days would work to get adequate oxygen into the wort and you won't have to worry about the buggies because of the high alcohol.  I like to do my big beers in a bucket and stir the beer well after 12 hours of fermentation to get more oxygen into it.

For a beer this big, your yeast is going to need some added yeast nutrients.  You can put a heaping tablespoon of spent yeast into the boil to provide all the nutrients needed.

Equipment and Software / Thermapen Open Box sale
« on: January 31, 2014, 11:15:45 AM »
$ 74 rather than $95 (?) with full warranty.

I also got the silicone boot which I had not seen before.  It was a bit of an impulse buy for me.

Equipment and Software / Re: All Grain setup
« on: January 31, 2014, 10:22:52 AM »
I had a rubbermaid and was not happy about how short its life was.  It began bulging and cracking after only a few uses.  I'm much happier with my rectangular cooler. So far no cracks, cross my fingers.

All Grain Brewing / Re: DMS causes
« on: January 27, 2014, 11:08:00 AM »
Boiling off 1.25 gallons over 90 minutes for a 4-gal batch is plenty vigorous.  I boil off around ~1.5 gals for a 10-gal batch in the same time period without DMS issues with pilsener malt.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cooling down the wort
« on: January 26, 2014, 09:13:21 PM »
As a general rule, it is a good idea to cool your wort to 65 F or below for ales before pitching.  Cool your wort to 90 F (for example) and add cold water at 35-40 F (for example) to get in the 62-65 F range.  Your yeast may take a little longer to ferment, but will be better for having been cooler.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Sparging a Berliner Weisse
« on: January 26, 2014, 09:05:29 PM »
Your sparge water very likely has alkalinity and possibly a lot of alkalinity which does more than dilute the acidity but also neutralizes some of it. 

I recommend adding more water, removing the bag if you haven't done so to make more room for additional water, and let the souring continue.  pH is not a very good way to measure acidity but if the pH is not below 3 then you're not done.  Let taste be your guide.

All Things Food / Re: recommend some Pots and Pans
« on: January 24, 2014, 08:46:46 PM »
Copper revereware.  Go to estate sales for that.   12" cast iron fry pan is my favorite pan. 

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Star San viability question
« on: January 24, 2014, 08:41:49 PM »
I thought the cloudiness was from the phosphate ion precipitating with hardness ions.  I thing your Ok with traces of wine in your StarSan.

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Beer minus hops
« on: January 24, 2014, 08:33:29 PM »
You can use orange peel with the pith for bittering like a traditional wit.

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Beer Recipes / Re: Oak an English IPA??
« on: January 24, 2014, 08:26:57 PM »
A little oak may boost the bitterness to balance the sweetness.  I'm not a big fan of oak but some tannins can help the balance.

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Equipment and Software / Re: I've got an idea for an experiment
« on: January 23, 2014, 09:31:38 PM »
Thirsty Bear's experience is to be expected.  When water is being heated indirectly by steam, it is the heat transfer from the steel into the water that is rate limiting so stirring the water should increase the speed of heating. 

When a non-condensing gas is used to heat the water (ignoring the condensation that occurs initially which is generally boiled off later), my intuition is that it is the heat transfer from the hot gas into the pot that is rate limiting.  My intuition is based on my rusty chemical engineering memories and the fact that the outside of  the pot being heated is much closer to the temperature of water than the temperature of the combustion gas.  Have you noticed if you use a keggle as a brewpot, you're likely to burn yourself if you touch the bottom skirt but the part of the keggle in contact with the wort is much cooler?

I'll check "Perry's Handbook" too and let you know what it says.

Taste is primary, but as my brewing becomes more consistently good, I'm beginning to approach the crossroad as the OP puts it of wanting my beers to be clear if that is what the style calls for.

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