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Messages - kramerog

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751
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Mash Out Fermentability Question
« on: November 13, 2014, 08:28:53 AM »
You will get some continued enzyme activity during the heating to boiling thinning the beer out a little.  If you are generally happy with your results don't change it because of theoretical concerns.  If you want a bigger body then mash at a higher temperature.

For example, when mashing @ 149-150 for 'light body' and 'maximum fermentability,' is the absence of mash out effectively nullifying the lower mash temp process as the wort post-mash is slowly raised to boiling temp?

No.

752
All Grain Brewing / Re: Parti-Gyle Brew - RIS & Oatmeal Stout
« on: November 13, 2014, 08:21:00 AM »
For parti-gyle, I prefer not to fly sparge although I generally fly sparge for entire brewing and use the BrauKaiser's parti-gyle simulator.  I find that I can get very accurate results from the simulator for the 1st and 2nd runnings.  http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Batch_Sparge_and_Party_Gyle_Simulator.  I haven't had as much success with Randy Mosher's technique. 

I share the concerns of the other posters.  Consider doing a short mini-mash of oats with additional base malts  and then throwing the mini-mash on top of the grain bed for the second running.

753
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Repitching Wyeast 3724
« on: November 11, 2014, 10:51:31 AM »
Kyle, what temperature have you been fermenting at?  I've fermented with 3724 in the high 80s which makes me concerned about repitching yeast in poor health.

Anyone have experience repitching 3724 after a high temperature fermentation?

754
Pimp My System / Re: Upright Keezer build
« on: November 09, 2014, 03:44:51 PM »
Awesome!

755
I was out of the hobby for five years beginning the early 2000s.  The perceived wisdom had changed a lot plus there a lot more ingredient choices.  Also the hobby is potentially a lot more expensive than it used to be.  Also there are a lot more homebrewers and homebrew clubs.

Be open to relearning your craft.  Get to know your local homebrew store. Buy some of the basics so you can brew from there. Join your local homebrew club or two or three.  Buy some used equipment when others upgrade their equipment.  Join some group buys.  Craigslist is a good idea.  Good luck and have fun.

756
Equipment and Software / Re: Weldless valve for kettle
« on: November 08, 2014, 08:38:18 PM »
My valve kit included a flame shield, to place under the pot by the valve.  I hardly ever use it.

757
Beer Recipes / Re: IBU Calculations
« on: November 07, 2014, 03:31:26 PM »
If you do a full boil you should get a bitterer beer because the kits are generally designed for partial boils.  Of course the kits don't specify the amount of water to use. 

Beersmith uses Tinseth so I think that you may misentered something somewhere. http://www.beersmith.com/Help/estimating_bitterness_tech.htm

758
Ingredients / Re: Big Alcohol, Little Knowledge
« on: November 06, 2014, 03:49:24 PM »



if you can work it I would brew a small dry stout with the Irish yeast and pitch about 1/3 to 1/2 of the resulting cake into this beer to start.

What do you mean by cake? Just the remnants left in the brewpot?

Cake is the yeast cake from fermenting another beer.

759
Ingredients / Re: Big Alcohol, Little Knowledge
« on: November 06, 2014, 03:37:51 PM »
You will have to use a vessel with a relatively wide mouth to use a mix stir like a bucket or big mouth bubbler.


I use my mixstir in a better bottle all the time. Used it in a glass carboy as well. I actually prefer it because as it spins up the wort doesn't fly over the edge as it has before in a bucket.

I guess I got a bigger mix stir.  Bigger is not always better!

760
Ingredients / Re: Big Alcohol, Little Knowledge
« on: November 06, 2014, 01:16:27 PM »
Wow, I didn't expect this amount of of feedback, this is incredible.

I plan on getting an aquarium bubbler for the oxygenation issue and definetly adding some nutrients as per your suggestion reverseapachemaster.

A guy in the forum here made a 20 or 25% barley wine I got to try at NHC a couple years ago and, considering the novelty, it was pretty good. I believe the trick is to start off high gravity and get the yeast going and continue feeding the yeast sugar and very high gravity wort and aeration. You will also need a yeast that can tolerate the high ABV as most brewers yeast can't go much above 12.

Anyway, good luck, it is definitely an advanced technique. I'll PM him for you and ask him to chime in.

Typically, I'd say throw all the sugars in the boil but for something this high, I agree that incremental feeding might be the way to go.

If you're using all that LME, I'd try to start with an initial wort that's extremely fermentable.  Low mash temp for 90 minutes or so.

And, no I don't think you can go too dark.  I have no idea how roasty it will be as no one knows whats in dark extract, but you can be too roasty.  I think the bigger risk is too sweet with that much dark extract.

What did you mean by a "Low Mash Temp?" Should I wait until I get into All-Grain brewing to attempt this? And do I increase fermentability in my wort?

Re low mash temp, that would be for all-grain.

Re aeration, I think you would be better off with a mix stir rather than an aquarium bubbler.  I haven't ever seen anything scientifically-based that indicates aquarium bubblers are a good way to aerate wort.  You will have to use a vessel with a relatively wide mouth to use a mix stir like a bucket or big mouth bubbler.

761
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Sugar cubes for priming?
« on: November 06, 2014, 12:48:36 PM »
I generally keg, but I did purchase Domino cubes for surplus beer when my batch is bigger than a keg.  I have not had a chance to try the cubes yet.   On the plus side, you don't need a bottling bucket with the cubes.

762
Homebrew Clubs / Re: Selecting beers to serve at events...
« on: November 05, 2014, 03:59:54 PM »
We learned this past year that we will only be bringing as many kegs as we have taps. Our club has 9 taps and brought 15 kegs. Needless to say, some of them didn't even get tapped.

My club rotated taps with the best, most unique or most interesting stuff being on tap throughout the tasting.

763
Homebrew Clubs / Re: Paid positions for club board members
« on: November 05, 2014, 03:52:17 PM »
If by compensation you mean money then the club probably has employees or contractors rather than volunteers especially because the subject line is "paid positions for club board members."  This opens a can of worms ....  I'm not sure where the dividing line between employees or contractors and volunteers is, but I see plenty of clubs giving free or reduced entries and fee waivers to volunteers.

764
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Artificial Oxygenation
« on: November 04, 2014, 04:33:00 PM »
Hydrogen peroxide releases oxygen too, but "O" not "O2".  Can yeast digest O?
Not exactly, but O· can probably digest yeast pretty well...

2 KClO3(s) → 3 O2(g) + 2 KCl(s) (per Wikipedia) is the reaction gone to completion.  However, based on Wikipedia it sounds like the reaction would evolve oxygen over time not just when you need it. Also lots of bad things can happen like using pure oxygen.
Yeah, K Chlorate sounds like nasty stuff to deal with. But if you can manage it safely then it may be ok for starters or maybe something like a high gravity mead, where you're introducing oxygen over an extended period of time at the beginning of fermentation.

I could see using it for a mead if the meadmaker was going out of town for a few days maybe.  K is an important element to add to mead.

Personally, I would use a mixstir and delay starting the mead if necessary.

765
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: 100% Brett First Attempt
« on: November 04, 2014, 04:24:20 PM »
Going to try a 100% Brett fermentation and needed some help.

2) will Brett Brux Trois strain also work well for a primary fermentation (if I can't get my hands on Brett brux/lambicus)?
3) there seems to be a lot of variety in how fast I should expect these to ferment out- some say months, others something not too longer than a typical ferment schedule.
4) are starters necessary?

Thanks.
Having done a few all Brett beers:
2 - I don't see why not
3 - I guess it could be highly dependent on strain and temp.  I'm recalling that my ferments were basically done in 1 month.  However I probably allowed the ferments to continue for a few weeks after that to be sure so I didn't get any bottle bombs.
4 - Yes unless you are doing a small batch size.  Do not chill the starter because Brett takes a long time to get restarted after being cold.

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