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Messages - gogreen437

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16
The Pub / Re: Read any good book lately?
« on: July 02, 2012, 12:29:32 PM »
Not trying to get this locked for religious comments...

Just finished "Lamb" by Christopher Moore.  http://www.chrismoore.com/lamb.html
Pretty funny look at the middle of story most of us know the beginning and end of.

Read this a little while ago myself.  Funny, but also very real and human...if that makes sense given the material.

17
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Oxygen absorbing caps...
« on: June 13, 2012, 11:18:42 AM »
Not sure if they are supposed to do this, but I have noticed since using them that they form a little indented circle in the middle of the cap (akin to a snapple or lipton iced tea top) when you cap them that I never noticed when using other bottle caps.

18
All Grain Brewing / Re: Brewing with Unmalted Wheat
« on: June 13, 2012, 10:59:15 AM »
Picture oatmeal. How easy is it to extract liquid from cooked oatmeal? I really wouldn't recommend using a high amount of unmalted wheat without a glucan rest, with or without rice hulls.

Good mental picture.  Thanks for the advice!

19
All Grain Brewing / Re: Brewing with Unmalted Wheat
« on: June 13, 2012, 10:54:20 AM »
There are really two, related issues when using unmalted wheat, relating to wort composition and mash kinetics. The first is affected by protein, the other is affected by beta-glucan. Wheat starch is used as a glue, because beta-glucans are really sticky. So a large amount of beta-glucans may cause a slow or stuck mash.

The first issue, having too much protein, may result in haze or stability issues in the finished beer.

I think acceptable levels of beta-glucans and protein will depend on your particular brewing setup. Almost everyone could get away with maybe 10-15% unmalted wheat and a single-infusion under otherwise "normal" circumstances. When using large amounts (40%+) then the two issues I mentioned may become a big deal.

I suppose I really wouldn't be interested in going over 10-15% unmalted wheat anyway.  Any higher percentage of wheat I could use malted. 

But, devil's advocate, I don't usually have any trouble with stuck sparges and if I were concerned with it I could always throw in some rice hulls.  So, as to the second point of haze and stability.  Let's say I was doing a Belgian White and intended to drink this batch quickly and often.  If I wanted to mess around with a higher amount of unmalted wheat with a single infusion, this would be the style to give it a whirl?

20
All Grain Brewing / Brewing with Unmalted Wheat
« on: June 13, 2012, 09:39:06 AM »
I have only ever used malted wheat to date, but would like to give unmalted wheat a spin.  I've been reading Brewing with Wheat and it seems like without fail European brewers who use unmalted wheat as a portion of their grist do at the minimum a protein rest.  But when I came to a breakdown of Allagash's White  they use a portion of unmalted wheat (unspecified amount) but do a single infusion mash around 154 F (give or take a degree, I don't exactly remember).  From listening to Jamil Show podcasts in the past with Ron Jeffries, I know that Jolly Pumpkin also uses unmalted grains with single infusion mashes, but usually in small amounts/percentages. 

So I am wondering who has tried both ways, protein rest and single infusion, with unmalted wheat and what the experiences are?  Is it ok in small amounts to not do a protein rest?  In large amounts?  No amount at all?  Any and all comments welcome. 

21
All Grain Brewing / Re: protein rest... 122F or 133F?
« on: May 29, 2012, 05:33:50 AM »
According to Gordon Strong's book, "Brewing Better Beer" protein rests work in the range 104* to 140* F, but is most active between 122* and 131* F.  When I do a protein rest, it is normally at 131* F for 10-15 minutes.

I believe Gordon Strong also recommends the rest be done around 131 F (or close enough) as opposed to 122 F because in better modified malts the lower temp can destroy proteins that are useful for body and head retention. 

22
Other Fermentables / Re: Mead and Medicinal Flavors
« on: May 10, 2012, 09:56:17 AM »
Thanks for some good direction!

23
Other Fermentables / Mead and Medicinal Flavors
« on: May 10, 2012, 05:09:49 AM »
So I made a mead a while back (year ago) where I underpitched and probably didn't use enough yeast nutrient.  It had a really strong medicinal/cough syrup like flavor that I assumed was a result of underpitching/lack of nutrients that has taken almost a year to start to fade. 

To my surprise, however, I got a commercial example from a local winery that tasted twice as medicinal/cough syrupy as mine.  Confused I tried another mead from a company that specializes in mead here in Michigan.  The medicinal notes were not nearly as pronounced as in mine, or the first commercial example, but they were still pretty evident.  I've searched the internet for explanations, but while I've come across other people who have noted the same issue, the responses were lacking.

Is all mead cursed to have these flavors to some degree? Or will proper fermentation take care of it?  Or am I just crazy?

24
Zymurgy / Re: "New Rules of Brewing Water" - Same as the old rules?
« on: April 26, 2012, 09:11:34 AM »
Very new to the concept of paying attention to my water.  My practice has been to pour from my tap and add half a campden tablet.  But I have recently started taking readings of my mashes with pH strips. 

When it comes to "rules for brewing water" I've tried listening to the Brew Strong podcasts and Palmer loses me quick.  Should I just be concerned with my mash being in a 5.2 to 5.5 range and how to adjust to get there?  Or do I need really need to know how to "spice" the water as John Palmer talks about? 

25
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Burn(er)ing Question
« on: April 25, 2012, 09:55:31 AM »
I use the SQ14 from Bayou Classic and have been very pleased with it so far.  Got it for less than $50 about 8 months ago.  For me, it is a good compromise between power, noise, and fuel consumption.  It is sold at Amazon and also Home Depot.

One thing to keep in mind is the size.  Not all of them fit a keggle without a supplemental grate of some sort if that's what you use.  That's another reason I chose the SQ14.  It fits a keggle perfectly with no modifications.

Good luck!

I don't use a keggle.  My current brew kettle is 16 inches in diameter, which I assume would be ok with the 13 inch diameter of the sp10 if I went with that. But my next purchase I intend to make is a kettle with a 19 inch diameter.  In my mind I feel like that would still be stable on top of 13 inches, but am I off base with that? 

26
General Homebrew Discussion / Burn(er)ing Question
« on: April 25, 2012, 06:35:55 AM »
I'm sure this topic has come up a lot, so apologies, but is there any reason not to go cheap (50 dollar range) as opposed to some of the more expensive options?  These are two I am looking at right now:

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/homebrewing-equipment/boiling-equipment/burners/king-kooker.html

http://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-SQ14-Single-Outdoor/dp/B0009JXYQ4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1335360454&sr=8-2

Thank you for any input.

27
All Grain Brewing / Re: Question About Batch Sparging
« on: April 22, 2012, 10:33:34 AM »
You basically did a no-sparge.  It won't cause any issues other than the efficiency might have been a little lower than if you'd batch sparged.  Either way works fine but you're efficiency will be somewhat higher with batch sparging than no sparging.  With batch sparging (or fly sparging) you're rinsing more sugars out of the grains.

Thank you!

28
All Grain Brewing / Question About Batch Sparging
« on: April 22, 2012, 10:18:28 AM »
So I know that if you mash too thin you lower the efficency of the enzymes (or something along those lines) and mess with the conversion of starches to fermentable sugars.  So I get why you wouldn't mash 9 pounds of grain with, say, 10 gallons of water. 

However, yesterday I was making a mild with under 9 pounds of grain and I mashed with 3.5 gallons of water.  When I went to collect my first runnings it was stuck, and I thought the small amount of water in my 70 qt cooler might have something to do with it (first time I've ever had it stuck).  So, I added the water I had intended to sparge with, stirred and waited 10 minutes and collected my 6.5 gallons to boil with no problem.  I took a ph reading at room temp from a little bit of the runnings collected at the beginning and a little collected at the end and according to my strip they both tested between 5.0 and 5.4. 

Will this cause any issues?  And if not, what is reason behind collecting your first runnings, adding the sparge water and then waiting before collecting the rest of your wort? 

29
All Grain Brewing / Re: Hazelnut extract question
« on: January 11, 2012, 12:43:49 PM »
My experience with extracts is that there is no standard concentration.  If you are using the kind you add to coffee (in the .75 liter bottles) then that is WAY different than the tiny bottles.  The stuff that I have, one DROP (measured from a pipette) is IMO too much for a PINT.  Probably ok for 22oz bomber.  So at 20 drops/ml and 40 pints per keg, that's at most 40 drops (more like 30).  A tablespoon is 15ml (that's 300 drops)!  Start out small, you can always add more.

In Jamil's recipe for Chocolate Hazelnut Porter he says much the same thing.  I guess it can vary dramatically from extract to extract.  Starting small and working up seems like a good way to go. 

30
All Grain Brewing / Re: Efficiency: How Good is Too Good
« on: January 10, 2012, 09:11:00 AM »
Thanks for the responses!

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