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Messages - gsandel

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211
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Corny Keg Pressure Relief Valve Leaking?
« on: June 14, 2011, 07:42:24 PM »
I have a similar problem.  I bought a used keg with a leaky valve, replaced with new valve but still leaks.  My thought is that it was the wrong valve installed in the first place.  The kind I have/had is like the type A, and on most web sites, I see a type C....but is there a type B?...and how do I know what I need?  I would hate to order a type C if i need something else.

thanks,
g

212
All Grain Brewing / Re: direct fire mash tun
« on: June 12, 2011, 08:12:04 PM »
before I went to a herms system, I ran a RIMS with direct firing of the mash tun....I was never satisfied with the results.  I had temp gauges on the outlet and at the top of the mash, but could never get the two to diverge at a set temp....I would wildly overshoot.  I would suggest decoction for more control (like adding boiling water, but instead boiling some of the mash).

213
All Grain Brewing / new lessoned learned
« on: April 30, 2011, 08:41:28 PM »
made a marathon 2 batch day (24 gallons total)....the beers were both easy drinking summer brews...but I learned that remembering all the lessons learned from last time could be easily be applied....I think I actually became a better brewer by meticulously planning a two brew day and applying what I learned in brew 1 to brew 2....I internalized a lot, stayed focused, and actually had an easy day (oh, and everything worked, too).

I am set for summer....or the first third, at least.

214
With bottles, I used to say "returned clean" (after proper instruction on cleaning of course) or no more beer for you.....

now, I tell them to bring their own growler over for a fill.....and if they don't have one, I suggest they get one next time we are out at a local establishment....I haven't yet encountered one, but i won't fill, nor clean a dirty growler, either.
seems to work.

215
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Getting started with kegging
« on: April 21, 2011, 06:22:10 PM »
I agree....this is not bad at all, and if you have the extra $10, I recommend upgrading to the 10lb bottle....it will save you time, trips to the refiller, a few choice swear words once in a while, and $$ (filling 10lbs cost less than filling 5lbs twice).

regards.
g

216
Kegging and Bottling / Re: new bottle of CO2....regulator issues
« on: April 21, 2011, 06:33:09 AM »
Quote
It may be normal. I don't know how you're set up but sometimes it takes a while for things to stabilize.  If your previous tank was low (and why wouldn't it be if you refilled/swapped it?) then your regulator was likely putting out a higher outlet pressure than when your tank was full (this is normal, if inlet pressure decreases a lot, outlet pressure increases...to a point).  If your keg(s) got carbed up to this level, then when you swap out the tank the regulator will go back to the lower pressure output but the 'overcarbed' keg will tend to slowly creep the pressure up.  You may have to vent the keg a few times a bit to get it back down to your target carb level.  In any case, try to take everything else out of the equation; i.e. use just the tank, reg, and close the reg outlet valve.  Many of these regs are not self-venting so you may have to vent via a QD/poppet or relief valve whenever you reduce the regulator setting.  Also, if you 'quickly' vent a line the reg will often overshoot on recovery (which might lead you to believe the pressure is too high so you reduce the reg, then it stabilizes too low). HTH.

This sounds like what is happening, or a decent explanation....part user error is always my first suspect. 

217
Kegging and Bottling / Re: new bottle of CO2....regulator issues
« on: April 20, 2011, 10:07:25 PM »
I can't verify it's accuracy, but I can't dial it in to any specific number on the low pressure gauge.....frustrating, but really it doesn't ruin my day.

218
Kegging and Bottling / new bottle of CO2....regulator issues
« on: April 20, 2011, 09:29:05 PM »
I got a new bottle of CO2 (my first trade in) and all of a sudden, I can't seem to dial in the pressure on my regulator.....I have gotten to the point of it being two psi low or two psi high....luckily it only gives a little more head (who of us would complain about a little more....).  I bought my regulator used (really, really used) and it has me shopping for new regulators....

is this normal or is there some other factor (like the higher pressure in the bottle)?  Should I relax (not my style, although I try)? Should I buy a new regulator?  If so, what is the best regulator (or what to look for)?

thanks,
g

219
Equipment and Software / Re: Stainless head "chugger" pump
« on: April 12, 2011, 07:26:12 PM »
can you guys give more info on this so that we all can evaluate? What's a "chugger" pump?

220
All Grain Brewing / Re: When is your beer ready? Poll
« on: April 12, 2011, 07:23:03 PM »
you have to watch and taste and brew, brew, brew to really know, but my experience with my brewery is two weeks in primary (usually done before then, but I work on beer on the weekends), and then it never tastes quite right until about 3-4 weeks....less for lighter beers, more for darker....and the when it has gone bad is the same....sooner for the wheat beer, over a year for the Porter.

My dark lagers have never gone bad, they have always run out before I got to their limit.


221
Equipment and Software / Re: March Pump Switch Suggestions?
« on: April 07, 2011, 08:59:48 PM »
My suggestion is to cut the cord.....I went with all waterproof housing and the plastic toolbox I had around the house.  The pump is always situated below the kettle, tun, or HLT....I can't tell you how many times this thing got wet by accident....boiling liquids, electricity, and (at least) two guys drinking beer......got to build safety into the system somewhere.

Oh, and don't forget the GFI circuit if your circuit isn't already wired so.




more at onbeer.blogspot.com


222
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Corn Sugar Priming by Style
« on: April 06, 2011, 06:10:38 AM »
1. Just as much as force carbonation....except you can't adjust it mid way through.

2. Palmer and Zainashelff's Brewing Classic Styles has a chart and instructions how to determine the right weight of sugar (for corn and cane) for any given volume/temperature combination, and then discusses the volumes of CO2 for each particular style.  Most styles are around 2.5 volumes with the exception of bitters (lower), and belgians (higher).

3. the actual proper amount of carbonation is the amount that you think tastes the best for any particular style of your beer....if for competition, use the book above.

223
Equipment and Software / Re: Kegerator
« on: April 02, 2011, 01:50:40 PM »
Rock on Oscar! Rock ON!  The best I am doing is about 95 cents a pound on base malt (in my case, 2 row, Western)...I would love to hear where you are getting for less..I was 2 inches shy of starting my own brewery, and then I found a paying  job...in that time, I checked out pricing for grains wholesale....they run about 45 cents a pound for 2 row....of course, if you buy tons, it is less, but 45 cents for a pallet and 43 cents for in excess of 10,000 lbs....and that is if I pick it up myself.....which, living in Denver, (close to coors and a gazillion micros.....).

I calculated my costs at about $0.35-$0.50 a 12 ouncer....my 2010 batch average was 0.46 cents a 12 ounce bottle.

Even at that, I didn't include labor costs (hey, its a hobby, ain't it?) and figured that below 50 cents a bottle is pretty good if you are going to compare with over the bar prices.....my business model was 100% over the bar sales (with some discount for growler sales).  My ultimate assessment was that small local brewery with only over the bar sales (and no restaurant) is the way to go.  Launching into production brewery is suicide.

224
Pimp My System / Re: Pimp'n system
« on: April 01, 2011, 04:54:12 PM »
Link it?

225
Equipment and Software / Re: Kegerator
« on: April 01, 2011, 04:53:13 PM »
Quote
Ah...... fatigue is an issue sometimes. Actually.... since October, so 6 months 100 gallons, at a cost of about $3/G, so $300, x2= $600 a year..... compared to close to 10K for commercial beer.... I'll take it.
3

My records have me about $4.50/galllon for the last several years (ranging between $3.80 and $6.50 per gallon per batch)....so $3/gallon is pretty good.  I am all over the place, neither too light, nor too heavy....no IPA's of any kind, no imperials, mostly all grain 5-6% ABV with the occasional 8% christmas beer.

 

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