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Messages - gsandel

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226
Kegging and Bottling / Re: new bottle of CO2....regulator issues
« on: April 20, 2011, 10:07:25 PM »
I can't verify it's accuracy, but I can't dial it in to any specific number on the low pressure gauge.....frustrating, but really it doesn't ruin my day.

227
Kegging and Bottling / new bottle of CO2....regulator issues
« on: April 20, 2011, 09:29:05 PM »
I got a new bottle of CO2 (my first trade in) and all of a sudden, I can't seem to dial in the pressure on my regulator.....I have gotten to the point of it being two psi low or two psi high....luckily it only gives a little more head (who of us would complain about a little more....).  I bought my regulator used (really, really used) and it has me shopping for new regulators....

is this normal or is there some other factor (like the higher pressure in the bottle)?  Should I relax (not my style, although I try)? Should I buy a new regulator?  If so, what is the best regulator (or what to look for)?

thanks,
g

228
Equipment and Software / Re: Stainless head "chugger" pump
« on: April 12, 2011, 07:26:12 PM »
can you guys give more info on this so that we all can evaluate? What's a "chugger" pump?

229
All Grain Brewing / Re: When is your beer ready? Poll
« on: April 12, 2011, 07:23:03 PM »
you have to watch and taste and brew, brew, brew to really know, but my experience with my brewery is two weeks in primary (usually done before then, but I work on beer on the weekends), and then it never tastes quite right until about 3-4 weeks....less for lighter beers, more for darker....and the when it has gone bad is the same....sooner for the wheat beer, over a year for the Porter.

My dark lagers have never gone bad, they have always run out before I got to their limit.


230
Equipment and Software / Re: March Pump Switch Suggestions?
« on: April 07, 2011, 08:59:48 PM »
My suggestion is to cut the cord.....I went with all waterproof housing and the plastic toolbox I had around the house.  The pump is always situated below the kettle, tun, or HLT....I can't tell you how many times this thing got wet by accident....boiling liquids, electricity, and (at least) two guys drinking beer......got to build safety into the system somewhere.

Oh, and don't forget the GFI circuit if your circuit isn't already wired so.




more at onbeer.blogspot.com


231
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Corn Sugar Priming by Style
« on: April 06, 2011, 06:10:38 AM »
1. Just as much as force carbonation....except you can't adjust it mid way through.

2. Palmer and Zainashelff's Brewing Classic Styles has a chart and instructions how to determine the right weight of sugar (for corn and cane) for any given volume/temperature combination, and then discusses the volumes of CO2 for each particular style.  Most styles are around 2.5 volumes with the exception of bitters (lower), and belgians (higher).

3. the actual proper amount of carbonation is the amount that you think tastes the best for any particular style of your beer....if for competition, use the book above.

232
Equipment and Software / Re: Kegerator
« on: April 02, 2011, 01:50:40 PM »
Rock on Oscar! Rock ON!  The best I am doing is about 95 cents a pound on base malt (in my case, 2 row, Western)...I would love to hear where you are getting for less..I was 2 inches shy of starting my own brewery, and then I found a paying  job...in that time, I checked out pricing for grains wholesale....they run about 45 cents a pound for 2 row....of course, if you buy tons, it is less, but 45 cents for a pallet and 43 cents for in excess of 10,000 lbs....and that is if I pick it up myself.....which, living in Denver, (close to coors and a gazillion micros.....).

I calculated my costs at about $0.35-$0.50 a 12 ouncer....my 2010 batch average was 0.46 cents a 12 ounce bottle.

Even at that, I didn't include labor costs (hey, its a hobby, ain't it?) and figured that below 50 cents a bottle is pretty good if you are going to compare with over the bar prices.....my business model was 100% over the bar sales (with some discount for growler sales).  My ultimate assessment was that small local brewery with only over the bar sales (and no restaurant) is the way to go.  Launching into production brewery is suicide.

233
Pimp My System / Re: Pimp'n system
« on: April 01, 2011, 04:54:12 PM »
Link it?

234
Equipment and Software / Re: Kegerator
« on: April 01, 2011, 04:53:13 PM »
Quote
Ah...... fatigue is an issue sometimes. Actually.... since October, so 6 months 100 gallons, at a cost of about $3/G, so $300, x2= $600 a year..... compared to close to 10K for commercial beer.... I'll take it.
3

My records have me about $4.50/galllon for the last several years (ranging between $3.80 and $6.50 per gallon per batch)....so $3/gallon is pretty good.  I am all over the place, neither too light, nor too heavy....no IPA's of any kind, no imperials, mostly all grain 5-6% ABV with the occasional 8% christmas beer.

 

235
Equipment and Software / Re: Kegerator
« on: March 28, 2011, 07:58:41 PM »
Quote
Quote from: denny on Today at 12:24:35 PM
Quote from: oscarvan on Today at 12:19:49 PM
Craigslist fridge with room for 6 and hops freezer below..... $50

Cost to run it for a year....$3000. 

Funny. At 45º it doesn't run that often this time of year. It's on the cold end of the house, my office is right next to it and I can hear it when it runs..... however....in summer the "mudroom" as the pantry is known will get toastier...

Irony is lost.....The cost to run includes the beer to be consumed....hence the $3,000.

236
Quote
Keep in mind this was my first keg ever, but I found that carbing at a pressure 12psi worked fine.
After a while I took it down to around 8-9 psi for a serving pressure and that worked fine.

The 8-9 psi is a function of your 6' beer line.  The problem is, though, that your carbonation level drops from your 12 psi to your serving pressure over time (as you serve beer).  That is why we are talking about a "balanced" system....where the length of beer line from the keg to the faucet equals the pressure in the beer and keg.  Too long a hose and the flow of the beer to your glass is too slow, too short and you get more foam than beer in your glass as the co2 rushes to escape.  Temperature also plays a part.  So, if you are serving at 40 degrees at 8-9 psi, you have 2.1-2.2 volumes of co2, where you were at 2.5 volumes at 12 psi...if you want 2.5v, then lengthen your hose a foot or two....if you are good at 2.1v, just set your regulator at 8-9 psi to carb and leave it for a week, and leave to serve.

237
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Futzing around with gas lines....
« on: March 25, 2011, 07:54:34 PM »
I just futzed over the weekend.....added quick disconnect and additional check valve.

238
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Futzing around with gas lines....
« on: March 25, 2011, 05:53:34 PM »
in a word, no.....you don't have to off gas....unless "need" to....but never around the beermistress

239
Kegging and Bottling / Re: seeking CO2 set up advice
« on: March 24, 2011, 09:16:42 PM »
if money is no object, buy another tank, but otherwise, 4 on tap isn't so bad.  I have a 7cf with a collar and can fit 3 cornys and a 5 gallon sanke (which is slightly bigger) with room to spare, but not enough for 5.  I don't own 5 cornys to test if I would have enough room for them without the sanke 1/6th barrel.  My collar isn't wide enough for the 5th keg on the hump.  My tank is 20# so, it doesn't even fit on the hump, so I drilled through the collar.

good luck.

240
Kegging and Bottling / Re: How Long Will It Last?
« on: March 23, 2011, 05:50:28 AM »
the only thing I can think of is that as you drink it down the surface to volume changes in the keg.....so fluctuation in carbonation is possible...beer does change over time, too.  Also, if you disconnect your serving hose and make sure it stays clean....I would personally go for it.  You have to taste it to make sure it is good enough for competition, right?

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