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Messages - duboman

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226
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pitching Temps for Ale Yeast quandary?
« on: January 13, 2015, 07:53:12 AM »
I use a CFC for chilling and in Chicago our water is about 50 in the winter and 75 in the summer. I run my water at about half throttle as I've found running it full on does nothing anything faster. My runoff water is used for cleaning and also runs into a 50 gallon rain barrel that I then use to water my garden.

In the winter it takes about 15 minutes to bring 6.5 gallons to 60 degrees, the summer about 30 minutes to 75 as I throttle back the kettle flow to get a better chill. In the summer I'll then place the primary in the fermentation chamber to chill down further and it takes an hour or two, then I'll aerate and pitch.

227
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Right RPM for stir plate?
« on: January 12, 2015, 08:21:19 PM »
Right, but we are simply decanting and pitching the yeast, not the supernatant clear green beer.

I can't imagine that here is a discernable difference in 5-10 gallons of finished beer at home brew scale.

228
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Right RPM for stir plate?
« on: January 12, 2015, 07:53:22 PM »
This is all well above my microbiological pay grade.... My question is when comparing scale of home brew pitch and commercial pitch, how relevant is the detail in all this?

I make the appropriate starter, ferment, crash, decant and pitch with proper aeration etal... The beer is really good

229
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Right RPM for stir plate?
« on: January 12, 2015, 05:49:41 PM »
This makes sense and I'm not sure why I typed 48-72 hours as my starters are done in the 18-24 range as well and then placed in the fridge. Perhaps its because in know some people just go longer for no apparent gain.  That was why I was ques iining using an aerator for the entire time in lieu of a stir plate in possibly achieving the same results.

230
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Right RPM for stir plate?
« on: January 12, 2015, 03:20:41 PM »
The vortex makes no difference as mentioned, as for the aquarium pump idea, not sure. While o2 is beneficial for the starter I'm not sure if it wouldn't be detrimental pumping into the starter for the 48-72 hours it would take to ferment out. Maybe someone else has a thought on that?

231
Beer Recipes / Re: ESB Critique
« on: January 12, 2015, 08:35:16 AM »
Thanks for all the great ideas. I decided to simplify things and went with this:
90% Maris Otter
7% Crystal 120
3% Biscuit

I bumped the hops at 60 to provide 45 IBU and added the dry hops to the flameout/hop stand to 2oz which as I use a CFC comes out to about a 20 minute stand for some nice aroma. The other hop additions I kept the same and still going all EKG.

I decided to add some biscuit in because I wanted a bit more of the flavor imparted to the beer.

I switched up the yeast to 1968 since I like that profile better than the 1028 I had originally. Gonna try and brew this up one day this week after I get a nice starter going, now off to the LHBS today to pick things up!

Cheers, Gary

232
Equipment and Software / Re: Experimental size batches
« on: January 11, 2015, 07:34:55 PM »
I've hough about doing 1 gal batches as well and basically I figured I would simply do BIAB on my stove in a smaller kettle, primary in a 64oz growler. It seemed pretty simple to do, but then I decided to do another full batch;)

Edit: I did realize the growler would be too small as a primary and figured I'd get 2 gal bucket

233
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Here we go again with the foam question
« on: January 11, 2015, 10:37:26 AM »
Hmmm, the big foamy head shouldn't be degassing the beer to the point that its then flat. Once the head dissipates do you still see bubbles rising in he beer?

234
Ingredients / Re: golden promise for lager?
« on: January 11, 2015, 10:33:40 AM »
Golden promise will make a nice lager but also, IME if you do a good, vigorous 60 minute boil with pilsner and practice good pitch and fermentation you should have no DMS issue either

235
Beer Recipes / Re: ESB Critique
« on: January 11, 2015, 08:24:43 AM »
So it sounds like in switching from pale malt to the Maris Otter I will get the additional flavors that were lacking in my first go around along with the small percentage of the dark crystal. Plus, bumping up the Og, which means I'll have to adjust some of the hops then as well to balance things out?

236
All Grain Brewing / Re: Sparge Water Volumes
« on: January 10, 2015, 07:44:08 PM »
I found the beat thing to do is do a batch of water. Add a fixed amount of water to your MT and drain, measure what you have left- that's a loss.

Fill your kettle with preboil volume of water, boil 60 minutes where you will actually brew. Measure what you empty into primary-this is your boil off rate

Measure what's left in the kettle, that's your kettle loss. Plus maybe a bit for grub.

From your previous experiences you should already know what your grub loss is after fermentation and proper batch size.

Add your losses into you calculations so you get the finished volume you want to package.

237
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Here we go again with the foam question
« on: January 10, 2015, 07:21:17 PM »
Exactly, when I had a tower it was a PITA to try and equalize, now with my Keezer its better but really took a lot of insulation on the collar and I'm still going to probably add a small fan to circulate the air

238
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Here we go again with the foam question
« on: January 10, 2015, 02:51:40 PM »
The first is more foamy
You might have a temperature issue, is there a tower? If the lines in the tower are warmer than the beer in the keg you will get a very foamy first pour until the colder beer begins to flow on subsequent pours. A simple small fan to better circulate the air usually will solve this.

239
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Here we go again with the foam question
« on: January 10, 2015, 11:35:25 AM »
I did only wait about an hour or so before I retried the beer, I'll test it again tonight. I also am only running a 2' line if that makes a difference.

2' of 3/16th line really at any temperature is just way to short to get any sort of decent pour, you'll need to get longer lines. I like and use BevFlex as a recommendation. I would start with 10-12', you can always shorten the length if needed:)

240
All Grain Brewing / Re: Sparge Water Volumes
« on: January 10, 2015, 11:17:44 AM »
I will usually go with a close approximation to an easier amount as well. One thing I'll add is I also try to come to a more even balance between strike volume and sparge volume with sparge being just a bit higher volume than strike to ensure a good sparge. The most I'll go on strike is 1.5qts/pound and this will usually get me close on balancing the two volumes.

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