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Messages - duboman

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256
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Starter DME Issue
« on: June 18, 2015, 02:08:42 PM »
I would file this under RDWHAHB.

Proceed.

+1

But I'll add, you might want to consider converting to weights and metric. 100 grams DME per Liter  is a very easy way to create starters and creates a starter gravity of 1.037-1.040 every time and is more precise than trying to measure DME by volume. If you weigh out the DME you might find you actually have the right amount:)

257
There are plenty of people that brew award winning beer with extract as well as all grain. It really comes down to what you are comfortable with and how well you understand the process of brewing. In addition, as with anything, the freshness of your ingredients. If you use fresh extract vs old grain, chances are your extract batch will be better, all else being equal.

Extract is more expensive per batch than all gran but all grain brewing requires a larger initial investment in equipment. All grain is also a more complex brewing process with a lot more variables involved in refining your process, understanding the mash, using water, etc.

All Grain brewing allows you full control over each ingredient and element of  your process but also requires a greater understanding of how each affects your beer so there is a much larger learning curve as well.

Time is the last consideration, extract brewing is less time consuming to create the wort. All grain brewing for a 5 gallon batch generally takes me 5-6 hours from set up to cleanup and pitching the yeast.

If you want to make the jump I would highly recommend reading John Palmer's "How to Brew" There is a free online version but the latest purchased edition is much more updated and current.

258
Beer Recipes / Re: English ipa
« on: June 16, 2015, 04:48:05 PM »
I would leave out the wheat as well and actually go with 90% MO, maybe 5% crystal and 5% Munich with noble hops and ferment with WY 1968

259
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: My journal of NHC 2015
« on: June 16, 2015, 04:43:46 PM »

From someone that's never been , thanks for a great read, thoroughly enjoyed the details and created more of an urge to get to one in the near future!
Thanks, hope to see you in Baltimore!
Thanks, one of these years, they're always at an extremely busy time for my work schedule:(

260
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Increased Gravity???
« on: June 16, 2015, 02:25:37 PM »
I started my first 2 gallon batch of all grain.

The first reading I took after boiling was 1.01.
I took a second after primary fermentation. It was 1.002.
After three weeks in the secondary, I went to bottle the beer and got a reading of 1.014.

Something is wrong here. I can't figure out what the problem is...I can post a picture of the beer. For now, I've simply put the cover back on with the airlock. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Did you temperature correct your first reading post boil? I also think the second reading might have been 1.020 instead of 1.002, this would make more sense and then answer why it is now 1.014 as it was still fermenting.

261
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: My journal of NHC 2015
« on: June 16, 2015, 02:15:20 PM »
From someone that's never been , thanks for a great read, thoroughly enjoyed the details and created more of an urge to get to one in the near future!

262
Why don't you just pick up some large refreezable cooler ice packs, they're not that expensive and designed for the purpose:)

263
Congratulations to all the winners!

264
Equipment and Software / Re: 5 gallon Igloo mash tun is best for me?
« on: June 14, 2015, 05:19:42 AM »
I use a 10 gallon beverage cooler, for 5.5 gallon batches I don't lose heat over an hour. On occasions when I do a smaller batch I have a circle cut out of 2" rigid foam insulation that I place on top of the mash and it retains the heat well, +/- 1 loss of temp over an hour, its a viable option IMO

265
If this was a 5 gallon batch I would guess your sparge wasn't great, 2 gallons is a very small amount and I'll bet you left a lot of fermentable sugar behind.

As JT mentioned, try to balance out your mash and sparge volumes as well as pre heating the tun.

266
Equipment and Software / Re: 5 gallon Igloo mash tun is best for me?
« on: June 13, 2015, 05:27:21 AM »
This link will tell you how much grain and strike water can fit in a given cooler. Scroll down to  'Can I Mash It'.

http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml
+1
That's a great resource!

267
Equipment and Software / Re: 5 gallon Igloo mash tun is best for me?
« on: June 12, 2015, 02:23:28 PM »
I am currently doing BIAB, but my wife was nice enough to get a gift certificate to the homebrew store for my birthday so I'm going to pick a couple things up. They are not particullarly helpful there though...

Presently I'm doing 2.5 gallon batches but would like to increase that to 3-4 gallons to make it more worth my time. It's just me drinking it (giving a few away but it's mainly me) so I don't want to do 5 gallon batches at this time. Never say never to the 5 gallon though.

This all being said, is a 5 gallon cooler large enough to do 3-4 gallons of high gravity beer and 5 gallons of standard gravity?
My reading of websites and reviews show this will probably work just fine for what I'm looking to do.

For giggles, is a 10 gallon way too big to do say a standard gravity 3 gallon batch? Do the cons outweigh the indifferences as far the filtering capabilites?

Thank you

a 5 gallon beverage cooler will handle approximately 10-11 pounds of grain, a 10 gallon will handle roughly 20lbs and this is with a standard single infusion mash and batch sparge or fly sparge. If you typically do smaller batches and can accommodate the grain bill in a 5 your set. If you use the larger 10 gallon then heat loss can be an issue due to the amount of empty space in the tun.

268
Ingredients / Re: Please help me understand my water additions
« on: June 12, 2015, 02:19:42 PM »
I'm no expert but if you are hitting your pH without any additions other than a bit of acid then you simply add the salts as necessary to bring the other levels up to where you want them. Personally I use Lactic acid instead of acid malt as it usually only takes a ml or so to get my pH where I need it and is more accurate than acid malt.

I also primarily only use Gypsum and calcium chloride, the first for hoppy beers, the latter for malty beers, never needed epsom salt or other additions and I too add everything to the HLT, easy deal.

269
The Pub / Re: If I could bother my friends here for a little help...
« on: June 12, 2015, 10:47:07 AM »
Crushing the competition! Voted and thirsty;)

270
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: First brew, need advice.
« on: June 10, 2015, 06:18:41 PM »
Excellent:)

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