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Messages - duboman

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottle conitioning a 10 abv Baltic Porter.
« on: October 20, 2014, 02:51:33 PM »
You should be OK without any extra yeast as long as you're patient. It doesn't hurt to add a little extra at bottling as an insurance policy if you'd like. But you need way less than you think you do. One or two grams of US-05 at bottling is all that you need for a 5-gallon batch. If you use too much yeast you will get a lot of trub in your bottles.

When I bottle condition, usually at 70oF, an average beer takes 10-14 days. The big beers, 8-10% usually can take at least 6-8 weeks under the same conditions without adding yeast. IME, the bigger beers need the additional time anyways simply to condition and mellow, sometimes as long as 3-5 months when they really shine:)

I brewed a Belgian Quad in July for the Holidays this year, 10%, just sampled a bottle a few days ago to see how it was coming along, needs a bit more time but tasted delicious, be patient and you'll be rewarded!

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Brewing Frustrations
« on: October 20, 2014, 02:44:21 PM »
5 hour all grain brew day is pretty good in my opinion. it's about how long it takes me to brew a 5 or 10 gallon batch.

as everyone else has already said, stick to it and it'll get better.


Stick with it and don't get frustrated. The one thing I learned early on in AG brewing is plan ahead. If you plan ahead then you have set the time aside to focus on what you're doing and not just rushing through things at the last minute. I once early on thought I would just "squeeze" a brew day in, bad idea, nothing went right and the beer sucked, never did it again......

I too prefer the traditional mash/batch sparge process vs BIAB, I actually find it easier and really no time savings in the end. I've also started doing some split batches with different yeasts and it's pretty cool to see how things turn out!

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Some General Homebrew Questions...
« on: October 20, 2014, 02:29:58 PM »
I've been brewing for about 8 years, all-grain for about 4, and though my results are consistent and to my liking, I've always been curious on how others approach or conduct their brew day. if you have any experience or opinions on the following questions, please respond, any help would be much appreciated!

1. Hop bag during boil, or add hops straight to kettle?

2. Whirlfloc or Irish Moss? 15 min, 10 min, or 5 min?

3. Decant yeast starter or just pitch everything?

4. Whirlpool or just dump into primary fermenter?

5. Length of primary fermentation? Someone told me recently no less than 3 weeks.

6. Use of yeast nutrient?

7. White Labs or Wyeast?

8. Storing grain? In the refrigerator?

1. I use a hop spider for pellets or whole leaf, works best on my set up
2. Irish moss and nutrient at 10 minutes
3. Decant prior to pitch
4. Whirlpool, counter flow chiller into primary
5. 7-10 days usually with another couple to drop bright, then package
6. yes at 10 minutes
7. Wyeast primarily or rehydrated dry yeast
8. Usually in big dog food bins or small tupperware for specialty grains in a cool, dry dark space.

Rallies / Re: Lagunitas Chicago anyone
« on: October 19, 2014, 05:52:55 PM »
Lagunitas knows how to throw a rally! Lots of taps, lots of samples, served some great BBQ, and the hospitality/event room was fantastic! The brewery is enormous and its not even near capacity yet, definitely make the trip and check the place out. The tap room is on the second floor and has a cat walk that looks over the entire brew floor, way cool!

Rallies / Re: Lagunitas Chicago anyone
« on: October 19, 2014, 05:39:10 AM »
I'll be there as well! Anybody else?

I like beer, my wife likes vodka, we're all good here

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast starter time question
« on: October 09, 2014, 03:08:50 PM »
I think you are on the right track but as for certain processes resulting in the fastest start of fermentation it could just be a quirk. Some of this will be determined by the temp you are pitching into, a warmer pitch will typically get started faster than a colder one.

IMO, there is also no need to warm up the starter from the fridge prior to pitch, in fact, it is easier to decant off the cake when the starter is cold as the yeast stays in a cake.

I simply remove my starter from the fridge once I'm ready to pitch, decant and pitch the cold yeast into the chilled wort. I like to pitch cold and allow to self rise to the desired fermentation temperature. This allows for a good steady growth/lag phase as the yeast slowly warms.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Possibility for Bottle Bombs
« on: October 06, 2014, 04:30:45 AM »
You are simply seeing off gassing from the pressure change, if the fg was stable you've got nothing to worry about:)

Equipment and Software / Re: Wanted: Homebrewers Consumer Reports
« on: October 03, 2014, 06:04:44 PM »
So I'm kind of DIY like what Brewer isn't;)

I went restaurant supply house and got some awesome heavy duty 15 gallon SS pots, bought the ball valves, etc from suppliers on sale, took everything to my welder/machine shop buddy and had him do all the mounting/drilling/etc, half the price of pre fab and couldn't be happier:)

It would be cool though if there was a resource like that focusing on brewing equipment

The Pub / Re: What's the Weather Like Where You Are?
« on: October 03, 2014, 05:35:09 PM »
We are at 41 now with 30mph winds and it feels like it's in the 30's, not.very.happy

The Pub / Re: What's the Weather Like Where You Are?
« on: October 03, 2014, 10:39:25 AM »
It's been 75 and sunny for 2 weeks, but party's over. Temps are falling into the upper 30s tonight, windy, rainy. The crappy end of the fall spectrum.
Yup, the party is coming to an end:(

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Best vessel to dry hop in?
« on: October 02, 2014, 02:20:25 PM »
I dry hop in buckets and/or kegs.  Whatever is convenient.

+1, if in buckets I usually go 5-7 days, if the keg, I leave them in until the keg kicks.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg hopping frustration
« on: October 01, 2014, 04:29:57 AM »
Assuming the bag didn't loosen or experience a breach, perhaps the mesh of your bag is too coarse.  I've got other dry-hop problems, but using a very fine mesh bag (fabric-like) keeps the hop sludge at bay.
Most likely the pellet dust is getting through. Also, I do what Denny suggested a while back in another thread, I tie the hop sack around the dip tube about half way down the keg, works great!

The Pub / Re: Borderline Shameless borderline self promotion
« on: September 29, 2014, 10:27:48 AM »
This sounds really cool and unique and with all the taxes we pay in Chicago those prices are actually somewhat competitive

From what I understand its about 5x the amount of wet hops for what you'd use dry or pellet? Any who, I too use close to a pound in some IPAs and if you account for the additional loss you still package what you desire

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