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Messages - duboman

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All Grain Brewing / Re: Sparge Water Volumes
« on: January 10, 2015, 07:44:08 PM »
I found the beat thing to do is do a batch of water. Add a fixed amount of water to your MT and drain, measure what you have left- that's a loss.

Fill your kettle with preboil volume of water, boil 60 minutes where you will actually brew. Measure what you empty into primary-this is your boil off rate

Measure what's left in the kettle, that's your kettle loss. Plus maybe a bit for grub.

From your previous experiences you should already know what your grub loss is after fermentation and proper batch size.

Add your losses into you calculations so you get the finished volume you want to package.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Here we go again with the foam question
« on: January 10, 2015, 07:21:17 PM »
Exactly, when I had a tower it was a PITA to try and equalize, now with my Keezer its better but really took a lot of insulation on the collar and I'm still going to probably add a small fan to circulate the air

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Here we go again with the foam question
« on: January 10, 2015, 02:51:40 PM »
The first is more foamy
You might have a temperature issue, is there a tower? If the lines in the tower are warmer than the beer in the keg you will get a very foamy first pour until the colder beer begins to flow on subsequent pours. A simple small fan to better circulate the air usually will solve this.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Here we go again with the foam question
« on: January 10, 2015, 11:35:25 AM »
I did only wait about an hour or so before I retried the beer, I'll test it again tonight. I also am only running a 2' line if that makes a difference.

2' of 3/16th line really at any temperature is just way to short to get any sort of decent pour, you'll need to get longer lines. I like and use BevFlex as a recommendation. I would start with 10-12', you can always shorten the length if needed:)

All Grain Brewing / Re: Sparge Water Volumes
« on: January 10, 2015, 11:17:44 AM »
I will usually go with a close approximation to an easier amount as well. One thing I'll add is I also try to come to a more even balance between strike volume and sparge volume with sparge being just a bit higher volume than strike to ensure a good sparge. The most I'll go on strike is 1.5qts/pound and this will usually get me close on balancing the two volumes.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Here we go again with the foam question
« on: January 10, 2015, 11:12:06 AM »
+1 to both above as I too use 10' lines at 38oF at 10psi with great pours. When you have changed pressure, degassed, etc have you allowed for enough time for the keg to equalize before the next pour, if not you may still be slightly overcarbonated. Otherwise I too would suggest you have something disrupting the flow to the tap.

Beer Recipes / ESB Critique
« on: January 10, 2015, 10:03:59 AM »
I put together this ESB recipe awhile back but looking to revise. (This is the revised showing MO in lieu of Pale Malt) and was looking for some additional input. My main question is should I sub out some crystal malt and add in some Munich/Vienna for a bit more bready/bisquity flavor profile. I think this would accentuate the beer a bit more but am not sure. I am revising a recipe that was originally Pale Malt instead of MO. The judging notes stated that while the beer was good (Scored a 35) it was a bit bland for style and could be improved with a bit more bread/biscuit  in the profile. Also not sure the Special roast still needs to be there either? I am looking for a nice bitter that I can put in regular rotation as it is a favorite style of mine.

Recipe: EnglishSpecial Bitter   TYPE: All Grain
Style: English Best Bitter
---RECIPE SPECIFICATIONS-----------------------------------------------
SRM: 12.0 SRM      SRM RANGE: 5.0-16.0 SRM
IBU: 38.0 IBUs Tinseth   IBU RANGE: 25.0-40.0 IBUs
OG: 1.048 SG      OG RANGE: 1.040-1.049 SG
FG: 1.012 SG      FG RANGE: 1.008-1.012 SG
BU:GU: 0.798      Calories: 155.0 kcal/12oz   Est ABV: 4.6 %      
EE%: 80.00 %   Batch: 6.25 gal      Boil: 8.97 gal   BT: 60 Mins


Total Grain Weight: 10 lbs   Total Hops: 4.75 oz oz.
---MASH/STEEP PROCESS------MASH PH:5.40 ------
Amt                   Name                                     Type          #        %/IBU         
8 lbs                 Pale Malt, Maris Otter (Thomas Fawcett)  Grain         1        80.0 %       
12.0 oz               Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM)    Grain         2        7.5 %         
8.0 oz                Aromatic Malt (Briess) (20.0 SRM)        Grain         3        5.0 %         
8.0 oz                Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM)   Grain         4        5.0 %         
4.0 oz                Special Roast (50.0 SRM)                 Grain         5        2.5 %         

Name              Description                             Step Temperat Step Time     
Mash In           Add 3.75 gal of water at 164.0 F        154.0 F       60 min       

Batch sparge with 2 steps (1.93gal, 4.48gal) of 168.0 F water

---BOIL PROCESS-----------------------------
Est Pre_Boil Gravity: 1.038 SG   Est OG: 1.048 SG
Amt                   Name                                     Type          #        %/IBU         
2.25 oz               Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] - Boil 60.0 Hop           6        32.6 IBUs     
0.31 tsp              Irish Moss (Boil 10.0 mins)              Fining        7        -             
0.75 oz               Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] - Boil 10.0 Hop           8        3.9 IBUs     
0.50 oz               Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] - Boil 5.0  Hop           9        1.4 IBUs     
0.50 oz               Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] - Boil 0.0  Hop           10       0.0 IBUs     

Appreciate the thoughts!


Beer Recipes / Re: Cascadian Dark Ales
« on: January 09, 2015, 02:05:06 PM »
I converted my house IPA by adding some de-bittered black and a bit of midnight wheat and its a favorite around here. The wheat lends a bit of body to the mouth feel and there is no conflict with the west coast hops, its really quite tasty!

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lager Fermentation - Stuck??
« on: January 09, 2015, 06:05:49 AM »
While the fg may be off I have two questions:

Is this with a hydrometer or refractometer?

Have you properly calibrated either device?

If using a refractometer did you convert to account for the presence of alcohol? Either way I would verify with a properly calibrated hydrometer. It should read 1.000 in distilled water at its calibration temp which is usually 68oF. The paper slip will tell you.

The Pub / Re: Congrats to Ray!
« on: January 09, 2015, 05:37:39 AM »
Super nice guy, too, if you ever get a chance to meet him!
Most definitely! Got to meet and talk to him at the Lagunitas Chicago rally last year

Equipment and Software / Re: Stc1000 issue
« on: January 08, 2015, 04:51:54 PM »
Thanks Steve, solved the problem:)

Equipment and Software / Re: Stc1000 issue
« on: January 08, 2015, 08:53:16 AM »
Did you break the hot tab between the two sockets on the outlet?
Nope, missed that part...DOH! Thanks for the help!

Equipment and Software / Stc1000 issue
« on: January 08, 2015, 08:42:57 AM »
So I built the stc1000 for my term chamber as per several you tube builds, verified all wiring, etc. I only have the outlet for cooling plugged in and when the temp is above pre-set everything kicks on fine. My issue is if the temp goes below are set the unit switches to heat but activates the cooling outlet and the compressor kicks on and chills.

Do I need to have a heat source plugged in as well or is something not right. I thought without having a heat source plugged in the unit would simply sit idle


The Pub / Congrats to Ray!
« on: January 08, 2015, 07:41:42 AM »

Chicago Tribune dining award for Cicerone!

The Pub / Re: What's your favorite thing about being a Homebrewer?
« on: January 07, 2015, 07:39:05 PM »
Like 30 minutes ago a neighbor popped in the door, said "heard there's a new beer on tap" pulled a pint and sat to chat for a few:) life is good!

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