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Messages - duboman

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361
Beer Recipes / Re: NHC Gold Medal Recipes
« on: December 25, 2014, 10:01:26 AM »
Nice find, thanks for sharing!

362
Equipment and Software / Re: Chest Freezer for Fermentation
« on: December 20, 2014, 04:52:08 PM »
If you're handy Google stc-1000, I just built one for $31 compete, its dual stage which you don't need but its reliable, easy to build and cheap!

363
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling Time
« on: December 03, 2014, 05:55:17 PM »
If you bottlettle condition between 75-80 for average size beds they can be done in 7-10 days easy.

If you practice good fermentation with proper pitch and temp control your beer won't be "green" or "young" or whatever after its been carbonated unless you're talking about a complex high gravity beer, at least this is my experience YMMV:)

364
Kegging and Bottling / Re: cold crashing before bottling
« on: December 01, 2014, 05:28:13 PM »
Definitely okay to crash for up to a few weeks before bottling.
+1
No problems at all, just be prepared for it to take a bit longer for the beer to carb since its starting out cold

365
All Grain Brewing / Re: Decreased efficiency observations?
« on: November 29, 2014, 06:44:44 PM »
The losses can effect the efficiency, I get that as you state, this effects volumes which is what I was getting at, you explained it more specifically, thanks

366
All Grain Brewing / Re: Decreased efficiency observations?
« on: November 29, 2014, 01:15:35 PM »
Well the OP is trying to figure out why efficiency has gone down....

Your ppg numbers are correct but if youre throwing off your gravities because of incorrect volumes your total brewhouse efficiency % will be off from expected. Maybe we are just different on semantics?

367
All Grain Brewing / Re: Decreased efficiency observations?
« on: November 29, 2014, 09:25:06 AM »
Brewhouse efficiency takes into account the entire process from volumes to gravities so if your volumes are off your total efficiency will suffer.

Example: you mash and hit your pre-boil volume and gravity say at 85%, you're good, but then through the boil and chill you find your OG off and volume either high or low your brewhouse efficiency will be off of expected %.

If you have used the same mill and checked gap and have the same crush and mash process and water source then your mash efficiency should be consistent, if not then as mentioned start with the crush and pH, otherwise evaluate your post boil process and volumes/gravities

368
All Grain Brewing / Re: Decreased efficiency observations?
« on: November 29, 2014, 07:00:37 AM »
Which efficiency are you questioning, mash or brewhouse?

If brewhouse have you verified your brewing volumes from boil to package?

369
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Repitching Wyeast 3724
« on: November 14, 2014, 05:41:50 PM »
No experience repitching 3724 but I can tell you if you pitch it warm, like above 75 and simply allow it to self rise into the 80-90 degree range it will ferment quickly, without stall and easily below 1.010 and produce a great beer!

+1 to this.  Also, make sure it doesn't drop in temperature too quickly after high krausen.  If your house is cool, a heating pad may help.

For this last batch, I pitched at 67F and increased temperature by 1F per day until I got to 76F, then held at 76F for another 10-12 days.

I use bucket fermentors in a dorm-room fridge w/ a 2-stage controller. For heating, I use a heat belt - one of those thick plastic ones, not the cheap thin strip. Temp probe in thermowell through airlock hole. Bucket lid was loose to relieve pressure and simulate open fermentation.

I found that the heat of fermentation would not increase the fermentor temperature - to step up the temp, I would have to increase the heating belt set point.

Anyone else have this issue? I'll continue to post updates - using the harvested slurry in a rebrew this week.
You can try a light bulb in a coffee can instead, should be able to get warmer

370
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Repitching Wyeast 3724
« on: November 11, 2014, 11:26:03 AM »
No experience repitching 3724 but I can tell you if you pitch it warm, like above 75 and simply allow it to self rise into the 80-90 degree range it will ferment quickly, without stall and easily below 1.010 and produce a great beer!

If you don't get it warm it will finish but very slowly, so warm it up and give it a rouse:)

371
The Pub / Re: What to read
« on: November 10, 2014, 02:56:54 PM »
A couple more would be Dalton Fury, Jack Coughlin, and Brad Taylor in the genre you asked about that I've read and enjoyed.

372
Kegging and Bottling / Re: New to kegging
« on: November 10, 2014, 02:46:18 PM »
I would not suggest a DIY container for beer that will be under pressure, could prove to quite dangerous or even fatal.

373
The Pub / Re: What to read
« on: November 09, 2014, 04:27:11 PM »
I enjoy Lee Child, might try him. Stephen Hunter, Kyle Mills,

374
Beer Recipes / Re: Help Please! I need to fill a friend's keg
« on: November 06, 2014, 03:20:09 PM »
BVIP is always a good go to for me in the winter.

+1

+2
I've got this conditioning right now, it's an every year beer for me!

375
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Flashback Brewday
« on: November 06, 2014, 03:03:06 PM »
My first beer was a Black Dog Ale extract kit from Midwest supplies about 5 years ago. Surprisingly we brewed it up pretty easily and according to my notes it was actually tasty, not an overall great beer but it was my first and I was pretty psyched it was my own!

Interestingly my notes showed I brewed it again as an AG batch about a year later, the hops changed and my conversion to AG was probably not completely accurate but this batch turned out great, crystal clear, nice medium body, great aroma and crystal clear.

This beer then has gradually morphed into what I now call my Pebbleford Pale Ale as a house beer. It no longer really resembles anything of it's former self:)

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