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Messages - duboman

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406
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: dark colored starter
« on: August 15, 2013, 06:37:21 AM »
Did you add any nutrient to it? How long did you boil it for?

407
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Am I being impatient?
« on: August 15, 2013, 06:31:56 AM »
So I believe I finally figured all this out but have  additional questions:

This last batch I both bottled and kegged. Both the keg and the bottles have been conditioned and refrigerated for the same amount of time at the same temperature. My bottles are pouring crystal clear, commercial quality pours. My keg is tapping cloudy and it is not simply chill haze.

I am still getting a little too much foam and I have 5' of liquid line. My taps are approximately 3' to the center of the keg. For this issue I am assuming I should lengthen the lines, perhaps to 7-8'? The pour is kind of quick and the lines are 3/16 ID. They are refrigerated from keg to tower completely.

I noticed with my first keg that the dip tube goes basically all the way down almost into the little recess in the bottom of the keg. Is it possible that I am continuously sucking up trub each time I tap? Should I have cut the dip tube a little shorter to leave a little more space and avoid this suck up of sediment?

Appreciate the continued help!

408
Going Pro / Re: I need help knowing where to start...please!
« on: August 14, 2013, 06:42:32 PM »
http://digboston.com/boston-beer-brewing/2013/07/on-beer-and-brewing-so-you-want-to-be-a-brewer-eh/

I can't find the thread but there is one already pertaining to this on this forum

409
Equipment and Software / Re: Recommendation for a barley crusher?
« on: August 14, 2013, 10:15:23 AM »
I use the barley crusher and contrary to AmandaK have had no issues going on 2years.

I did tighten the gap a couple mm's and get a great crush. I went with the bigger hopper so I can fit 15lbs and I use a variable speed drill to drive it-this isn't recommended but I find it works well:)

410
The Pub / Midwest Brewers Fest-Plainfield IL
« on: August 13, 2013, 03:41:22 PM »
Just thought I would see who might be attending this year, maybe put some faces to names:)

411
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Who Uses a Blow-Off Tube and When?
« on: August 13, 2013, 10:29:33 AM »
I do for each and every batch, been there, done that clean up thing once and swore never again!

412
Wow, those are awesome and they now look brand new! Great job

413
About 100, and ahem......you mean you'd like to get to the 200 gallon limit;)

414
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Popping My Homebrewing Cherry
« on: August 10, 2013, 10:12:14 AM »


Well, just brewed the maiden batch yesterday and I'm already starting to see bubbles.

We have to add another round of hop pellets in a couple days, except the kit gave us an extra cascade packet instead of an Amarillo...will that kill the recipe if I dry hop with 2 cascades instead of a cascade and Amarillo?

Cascade instead of Amarillo should not be a big deal to swap and congratulations on getting started! If yo find the temperature rising you can place the fermenter in a large tub of water to help regulate and maintain the temp. You can also add frozen water bottles to the water if you need to bring the temperature down (This is known as a swamp cooler).

As for dry hopping-be sure to not rush the beer! Many directions have you follow a calendar type schedule and yeast really don't work that way. Ideally let the beer ferment for about 10 days to not only reach final gravity but also to begin clearing. Don't worry if the airlock stops bubbling, this is normal as active fermentation dies down. At about day 10 open the vessel and take a gravity reading, then two days later, take another. If the two readings are the same the beer is done and you can begin dry hopping, then package!

Cheers!
There's no turning back now:)


I'm going to take your advice and do it this way. Assuming my gravity readings are the same on days 10 and 12, how many days after dry hopping should I wait before bottling? Thanks.

You actually shouldn't wait to bottle after dry hop as the flavors and aromas will begin breaking down quickly.

Once you hit FG you can dry hop for the time you want and then bottle. You can dry hop right in the primary and just toss them in. When racking to the bottling bucket throw a hop bag over the racking cane to act as a filter to keep hop debris out of the finished beer.

I'm brewing a double IPA...how long would you suggest waiting after the dry hop? Also, not to sound like a total noob, but will you explain the hop bag? I don't have one and was wondering if it's worth getting one or if there is a suitable substitute. Thanks!

Again, once dry hop is complete you want to package. I like to dry hop for 5-7 days and then package so once I reach FG I toss the hops in the primary and wait the 5-7 days and then package right after.

You can use nylons, paint strainer bags in lieu of a hop sack as a filter. Both do the job.

415
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Popping My Homebrewing Cherry
« on: August 10, 2013, 08:38:35 AM »

Well, just brewed the maiden batch yesterday and I'm already starting to see bubbles.

We have to add another round of hop pellets in a couple days, except the kit gave us an extra cascade packet instead of an Amarillo...will that kill the recipe if I dry hop with 2 cascades instead of a cascade and Amarillo?

Cascade instead of Amarillo should not be a big deal to swap and congratulations on getting started! If yo find the temperature rising you can place the fermenter in a large tub of water to help regulate and maintain the temp. You can also add frozen water bottles to the water if you need to bring the temperature down (This is known as a swamp cooler).

As for dry hopping-be sure to not rush the beer! Many directions have you follow a calendar type schedule and yeast really don't work that way. Ideally let the beer ferment for about 10 days to not only reach final gravity but also to begin clearing. Don't worry if the airlock stops bubbling, this is normal as active fermentation dies down. At about day 10 open the vessel and take a gravity reading, then two days later, take another. If the two readings are the same the beer is done and you can begin dry hopping, then package!

Cheers!
There's no turning back now:)


I'm going to take your advice and do it this way. Assuming my gravity readings are the same on days 10 and 12, how many days after dry hopping should I wait before bottling? Thanks.

You actually shouldn't wait to bottle after dry hop as the flavors and aromas will begin breaking down quickly.

Once you hit FG you can dry hop for the time you want and then bottle. You can dry hop right in the primary and just toss them in. When racking to the bottling bucket throw a hop bag over the racking cane to act as a filter to keep hop debris out of the finished beer.

416
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Low Fermentation Temperature for Hefeweizen
« on: August 10, 2013, 07:21:49 AM »
I pitch mine cold and ferment at 60 as I am not a fan of the big banana notes, I prefer the clove that comes through at the lower temps, never have a problem with full attenuation in any batch

417
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Am I being impatient?
« on: August 10, 2013, 07:19:10 AM »
Patience I learned a long time ago;) 3 kids and Homebrewing will do that to you!

418
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Am I being impatient?
« on: August 09, 2013, 04:07:23 PM »

You can get faster carbonation if you bubble up through the dip tube.

I gotta tell ya, I tried that a number of times and didn't see any difference.

Thinking about it, question, how? My gas connect will not couple to the liquid post and vice versa or are you switching the valves?

419
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Am I being impatient?
« on: August 09, 2013, 03:19:47 PM »

You can get faster carbonation if you bubble up through the dip tube. I rarely do anything but quick carb flat kegs. 30 psi, shake for 1 Min. Taste test. Repeat till carb level you need. You can find time it over the next week.

I might try that next time:)

As it turns out I was just impatient, got home, shook the keg real well and the needle did not drop at all, bled off excess slowly, set to 10psi and received a just about perfect, well carbonated Belgian White pour to make my day!

Thanks for all the help everyone, advice and reassurances I'm heading in the right direction, time for another!

420
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Am I being impatient?
« on: August 09, 2013, 02:23:16 PM »
I would try it first but if you really want to get into it. I assume it is your only keg at the moment. Turn the pressure back up to 20-25 ish, then turn the gas back down a bunch. Shake it and watch the needle drop slowly back down. This will indicate that the beer is absorbing the co2, if it happens quickly you are not that close, if it happens slowly you are getting close. Turn the gas back up and do it again, probably reducing how much above serving pressure you want to go to avoid over carbing. You can do this a few times and get pretty close to where you want to be.  Over carbing and sending beer up the co2 line are the problems.   Here is a link that has some useful tips and charts.  Being able to immediately carb is one of the many benefits, but nothing wrong with waiting.

http://morebeer.com/web_files/morebeer.com/files/kegging.pdf

Thanks, I currently have it at 25 so when I get home I'll do some shaking and see how it goes. It is my only keg that's full right now with a Belgian White I'm chomping to sample! Believe me I've got plenty of other beers to drink so I can certainly wait.

Thanks for the help, I at least know now I am on the right track and appreciate the file reference!

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