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Messages - duboman

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46
Equipment and Software / Re: 5 gallon Igloo mash tun is best for me?
« on: June 13, 2015, 05:27:21 AM »
This link will tell you how much grain and strike water can fit in a given cooler. Scroll down to  'Can I Mash It'.

http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml
+1
That's a great resource!

47
Equipment and Software / Re: 5 gallon Igloo mash tun is best for me?
« on: June 12, 2015, 02:23:28 PM »
I am currently doing BIAB, but my wife was nice enough to get a gift certificate to the homebrew store for my birthday so I'm going to pick a couple things up. They are not particullarly helpful there though...

Presently I'm doing 2.5 gallon batches but would like to increase that to 3-4 gallons to make it more worth my time. It's just me drinking it (giving a few away but it's mainly me) so I don't want to do 5 gallon batches at this time. Never say never to the 5 gallon though.

This all being said, is a 5 gallon cooler large enough to do 3-4 gallons of high gravity beer and 5 gallons of standard gravity?
My reading of websites and reviews show this will probably work just fine for what I'm looking to do.

For giggles, is a 10 gallon way too big to do say a standard gravity 3 gallon batch? Do the cons outweigh the indifferences as far the filtering capabilites?

Thank you

a 5 gallon beverage cooler will handle approximately 10-11 pounds of grain, a 10 gallon will handle roughly 20lbs and this is with a standard single infusion mash and batch sparge or fly sparge. If you typically do smaller batches and can accommodate the grain bill in a 5 your set. If you use the larger 10 gallon then heat loss can be an issue due to the amount of empty space in the tun.

48
Ingredients / Re: Please help me understand my water additions
« on: June 12, 2015, 02:19:42 PM »
I'm no expert but if you are hitting your pH without any additions other than a bit of acid then you simply add the salts as necessary to bring the other levels up to where you want them. Personally I use Lactic acid instead of acid malt as it usually only takes a ml or so to get my pH where I need it and is more accurate than acid malt.

I also primarily only use Gypsum and calcium chloride, the first for hoppy beers, the latter for malty beers, never needed epsom salt or other additions and I too add everything to the HLT, easy deal.

49
The Pub / Re: If I could bother my friends here for a little help...
« on: June 12, 2015, 10:47:07 AM »
Crushing the competition! Voted and thirsty;)

50
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: First brew, need advice.
« on: June 10, 2015, 06:18:41 PM »
Excellent:)

51
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: First brew, need advice.
« on: June 10, 2015, 05:15:13 PM »
Google brewers friend abv calculator, punch in the starting gravity which is what the recipe stated as I mentioned above and your 1.010 reading, tada!

52
Equipment and Software / Re: beer label software
« on: June 10, 2015, 03:41:42 PM »
I use the Avery dots and they fit right on the cap and they're cheap and easy.

I gave up actually making labels when I bottled unless they were gifts. Once the bottle was empty they got stripped off and tossed to reuse the bottles, seemed like a big waste of time, money and effort:)

53
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Starters, how and why
« on: June 10, 2015, 03:29:30 PM »
Rehydrating dry yeast is always a good practice. Making a proper sized starter with liquid yeast is also beneficial.

An 11g pack of dry yeast is generally always adequate for most 5 gallon batches at most gravities. One smack pack of liquid is considered good for an OG of 1.030-1.040, anything more and a starter is recommended.

Proper pitch rate and temperature control will greatly improve your final product!

54
All Grain Brewing / Re: First Mash Tun made
« on: June 10, 2015, 03:24:23 PM »
Balls, nipples and bigger equipment, hmmm, seems like we're going off the rails here.........

55
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: First brew, need advice.
« on: June 10, 2015, 03:18:57 PM »
Go ahead and sanitize the hydrometer and place it directly in the beer and get a reading, do the same in a few days. If the reading is the same its done and ready to package. In the meantime order or pick up a test tube for samples:)

A spray bottle of star San mix is a good thing to have just for these purposes.

I'll also assume this was an extract batch since its your first beer. If so, the recipe's stated starting(OG) gravity is what you can use. This assumes your actual volumes were correct in the primary fermenter.

Welcome! You've found a great forum, lots of knowledge and friendly folks here to help you along!

56
All Grain Brewing / Re: American IPA FG question
« on: June 09, 2015, 06:59:09 PM »
Just carb it up and you'll have a real feel for what you have. Even at a low FG the wheat and carapils will probably make the beer seem a little fuller than the numbers would indicate. I'll bet you're fine. I've had a few APAs and AIPAs finish at 1.008 that were excellent beers. Be sure to post your impressions after carbing. Good luck!
+1 and no, carb as usual, take notes on tasting and make adjustments on the second iteration, my guess is it will be fine and just need a few tweaks on process

57
All Grain Brewing / Re: Using Percentages to create a grain bill
« on: June 09, 2015, 02:29:01 PM »
It's simple once you figure it out, you want an OG of 1.080 so call that 80. Assuming your final volume is 5 gallons then 80 x 5 = 400 points. Now your efficiency comes into play, 400 / 0.7 = ~570 pts so that is what you need to get from your grain. I always default that grain yields 36 points per pound per gallon, ppg. So 570 / 36 = 15.8 lb, since you don't know your efficiency, call it 16.

16 x 90.6% = ~14.5 lb
16 x 4.5% = ~3/4 lb
16 x 4.9% = ~0.8 lb

If you get a higher OG then expected your efficiency was higher than expected. You can water down the beer to the gravity post boil to achieve the gravity you want and have more beer. Also you can boil off less, boil shorter if you determine your runoff gravity is higher than expected. I run my calcs using The Recipator, but calculate using a calculator during brew day. Most use the commercial programs.
http://hbd.org/recipator/

Software is most definitely the easiest way to do this but these calculations are great to know if you are getting started creating recipes. With this knowledge you can basically create recipes on the fly on a bar napkin to rough something out, easy peasy and then tweak when you get time and software:)

58
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: AU Summer hops in American Wheat?
« on: June 09, 2015, 02:23:55 PM »
I'll be the contrary son here, go for it and think FFF  Gumball Head, a hoppy American Wheat that always pleases!

Never used that hop before but I would think if those are the aromas that it imparts in dry hopping it will be a great beer! Cheers!

59
All Grain Brewing / Re: Water options
« on: June 07, 2015, 08:26:22 AM »
Late to the party and already mentioned in various forms, get a ward labs report so you know exactly what's in your water and use brun' water to know exactly how to adjust.

Once I did both my beers improved drastically and with Martin's software you can print a summary page and file it with your recipe or copy and paste it to your brewing software notes section for repeated use.

Ward labs is pretty quick on turnaround and they email you the report so you can save it digitally. Also, if you donate to Bru'n water you get the ability to save everything as a master sheet and other bonuses like regular software updates.

60
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: stupid boiloff question
« on: June 07, 2015, 08:12:40 AM »
Were the environmental conditions the same, meaning temperature, humidity, etc. More humidity in the ambient air will reduce boil off as well as warmer temperatures.

Also, keeping your actual boil consistent which can be difficult sometimes depending on your burner.

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