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Messages - duboman

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Why don't you just pick up some large refreezable cooler ice packs, they're not that expensive and designed for the purpose:)

Congratulations to all the winners!

Equipment and Software / Re: 5 gallon Igloo mash tun is best for me?
« on: June 14, 2015, 05:19:42 AM »
I use a 10 gallon beverage cooler, for 5.5 gallon batches I don't lose heat over an hour. On occasions when I do a smaller batch I have a circle cut out of 2" rigid foam insulation that I place on top of the mash and it retains the heat well, +/- 1 loss of temp over an hour, its a viable option IMO

If this was a 5 gallon batch I would guess your sparge wasn't great, 2 gallons is a very small amount and I'll bet you left a lot of fermentable sugar behind.

As JT mentioned, try to balance out your mash and sparge volumes as well as pre heating the tun.

Equipment and Software / Re: 5 gallon Igloo mash tun is best for me?
« on: June 13, 2015, 05:27:21 AM »
This link will tell you how much grain and strike water can fit in a given cooler. Scroll down to  'Can I Mash It'.
That's a great resource!

Equipment and Software / Re: 5 gallon Igloo mash tun is best for me?
« on: June 12, 2015, 02:23:28 PM »
I am currently doing BIAB, but my wife was nice enough to get a gift certificate to the homebrew store for my birthday so I'm going to pick a couple things up. They are not particullarly helpful there though...

Presently I'm doing 2.5 gallon batches but would like to increase that to 3-4 gallons to make it more worth my time. It's just me drinking it (giving a few away but it's mainly me) so I don't want to do 5 gallon batches at this time. Never say never to the 5 gallon though.

This all being said, is a 5 gallon cooler large enough to do 3-4 gallons of high gravity beer and 5 gallons of standard gravity?
My reading of websites and reviews show this will probably work just fine for what I'm looking to do.

For giggles, is a 10 gallon way too big to do say a standard gravity 3 gallon batch? Do the cons outweigh the indifferences as far the filtering capabilites?

Thank you

a 5 gallon beverage cooler will handle approximately 10-11 pounds of grain, a 10 gallon will handle roughly 20lbs and this is with a standard single infusion mash and batch sparge or fly sparge. If you typically do smaller batches and can accommodate the grain bill in a 5 your set. If you use the larger 10 gallon then heat loss can be an issue due to the amount of empty space in the tun.

Ingredients / Re: Please help me understand my water additions
« on: June 12, 2015, 02:19:42 PM »
I'm no expert but if you are hitting your pH without any additions other than a bit of acid then you simply add the salts as necessary to bring the other levels up to where you want them. Personally I use Lactic acid instead of acid malt as it usually only takes a ml or so to get my pH where I need it and is more accurate than acid malt.

I also primarily only use Gypsum and calcium chloride, the first for hoppy beers, the latter for malty beers, never needed epsom salt or other additions and I too add everything to the HLT, easy deal.

The Pub / Re: If I could bother my friends here for a little help...
« on: June 12, 2015, 10:47:07 AM »
Crushing the competition! Voted and thirsty;)

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: First brew, need advice.
« on: June 10, 2015, 06:18:41 PM »

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: First brew, need advice.
« on: June 10, 2015, 05:15:13 PM »
Google brewers friend abv calculator, punch in the starting gravity which is what the recipe stated as I mentioned above and your 1.010 reading, tada!

Equipment and Software / Re: beer label software
« on: June 10, 2015, 03:41:42 PM »
I use the Avery dots and they fit right on the cap and they're cheap and easy.

I gave up actually making labels when I bottled unless they were gifts. Once the bottle was empty they got stripped off and tossed to reuse the bottles, seemed like a big waste of time, money and effort:)

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Starters, how and why
« on: June 10, 2015, 03:29:30 PM »
Rehydrating dry yeast is always a good practice. Making a proper sized starter with liquid yeast is also beneficial.

An 11g pack of dry yeast is generally always adequate for most 5 gallon batches at most gravities. One smack pack of liquid is considered good for an OG of 1.030-1.040, anything more and a starter is recommended.

Proper pitch rate and temperature control will greatly improve your final product!

All Grain Brewing / Re: First Mash Tun made
« on: June 10, 2015, 03:24:23 PM »
Balls, nipples and bigger equipment, hmmm, seems like we're going off the rails here.........

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: First brew, need advice.
« on: June 10, 2015, 03:18:57 PM »
Go ahead and sanitize the hydrometer and place it directly in the beer and get a reading, do the same in a few days. If the reading is the same its done and ready to package. In the meantime order or pick up a test tube for samples:)

A spray bottle of star San mix is a good thing to have just for these purposes.

I'll also assume this was an extract batch since its your first beer. If so, the recipe's stated starting(OG) gravity is what you can use. This assumes your actual volumes were correct in the primary fermenter.

Welcome! You've found a great forum, lots of knowledge and friendly folks here to help you along!

All Grain Brewing / Re: American IPA FG question
« on: June 09, 2015, 06:59:09 PM »
Just carb it up and you'll have a real feel for what you have. Even at a low FG the wheat and carapils will probably make the beer seem a little fuller than the numbers would indicate. I'll bet you're fine. I've had a few APAs and AIPAs finish at 1.008 that were excellent beers. Be sure to post your impressions after carbing. Good luck!
+1 and no, carb as usual, take notes on tasting and make adjustments on the second iteration, my guess is it will be fine and just need a few tweaks on process

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