I get this type of foam on beers that I dry hop in the keg,not sure of the exact science for it but its common with the method, probably has to do with nucleation points from the hops
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I use this (http://www.thermoworks.com/products/low_cost/rt600b.html) made by the thermopen people. It's very accurate and reasonably quick but not as fast or accurate as a thermopen. It's a fifth of the price but not a fifth of the quality. It's a good product. It was $19 well spent.I'll plug this product as well, very reliable and totally affordable!
156 is pretty high for a mash. I'd think 148-152 would be a better range for that style but I'm not one for brewing IPAs so I'll let others come in and give you better suggestions.
There's nothing about being self-made that doesn't benefit from having allies and mentors around you. Every successful person has had people around them that they lean on. If that is the reason you have declined joining a local group then I'd encourage you to rethink that attitude.
That's pretty cool and a good link! I rigged up some small computer fans and they work well, not perfect but Mich better than before having themIt sounds like you have more head on the first pour and less on the subsequent ones, the actual carbonation is the same.
This points to warmer lines than the keg and its a typical issue.
Adding a small fan to circulate the air will alleviate this to some degree.
+1. I use one of these in the warm/hot months. The first pour won't be overly foamy and off tasting (like can happen with kegerator towers) using one of these. Somebody DIY-inclined could build one cheaper. I went with speed and convenience and bought one of these.
It sounds like you have more head on the first pour and less on the subsequent ones, the actual carbonation is the same.Its not that the second or third beer isn't carbonated, they just seem to be less carbonated. I jacked up the psi to 14 and it seems better now. I may cut the lines down a bit as well.Don't you guys lose carbonation over time serving at a lower 8-10 psi? Or do you keep your temps lower to keep that carb level the same? Seems kind a like a balancing act between psi, temp and line length to get the pour you want.
That's exactly what it is. 10 psi and 38°F is the industry pseudo-standard, giving 2.4 vol CO2. If you want higher carbonation you'll need more pressure.
3/16" line drops about 1 psi/ft depending on flow rate, so 8' is right on for 12 psi. http://seanterrill.com/2011/11/11/a-more-accurate-approach-to-draft-system-balancing/Losing carbonation or the first pour is more foamy than the rest? There's a difference.
This is the critical question. If the first beer is truly carbonated and the second beer is truly not, then something unique is occurring.
still can't get itMe neither, checking a couple different bottle shops in the next few days. Distribution set ups here are bit odd sometimes...
Found one six pack locally. I had never heard of it before and learn to find out that it's new this year. Supposedly it's reduced gluton. I don't see much the point unless it's completely glutton free which you can't get with barley. That being said, I really don't care about that lol. It's hopped with lemon drop and el dorado. It pours crystal clear gold with white head. The nose is very pungent, floral, herbal, spicy with flashes of soft lemon candy like Starbust. The flavor... Well, it tasted exactly how it smells. The Starburst flavors quickly get flushed out by the herbal spiciness. The beer finishes very dry and is dangerously drinkable at 7.7%. I give it 4 out of 5 stars. I'll definetely buy and drink this again. Once again, Stone fails to disappoint.Just had one of these last night, tour description is spot on and it was quite a tasty beer!
Has anyone on here used this strain towards the high end of it's temperature range?
I'm considering trying to ferment an experimental beer in an outdoor fermenter during the Southern Maryland summer, when temps should vary from the 80s to mid 90s.
Do the phenols get completely out of hand around the 95 degree limit on this yeast?
Yeah, Wyeast recommends fermenting @ 90F to avoid the famous 3724 stall. I've fermented it at 90F and liked the results - it got to 1.006 after about 8 days, 1.002 FG at 12 days IIRC. I wouldn't have dreamed of doing this with any other yeast, as you'd normally get a phenolic, fusel bomb. But it made a good beer - saison yeasts are a different animal. My other method (that I still use) is to pitch 3724 at 65F and, when it starts to stall (and it will at that temp) , pitch with 3711 and ramp up after 48 hours. Gives you some of the complexity of 3724 with the attenuative nature of 3711.