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Messages - theDarkSide

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1396
Homebrew Clubs / Re: Newbie Here
« on: May 17, 2013, 01:53:51 PM »
and from what I've seen, home brew is mostly dark beer.

Boy, are you in for a surprise.  Some of my favorite beers are so light and clear, you can read through them (Munich Helles, Pilsner, even a pale ale ).

Also, don't write off dark beers totally.  Maybe what you don't like is roastiness, but there are tons of dark beers that don't emphasize that.

Also, be aware with a pilsner kit, you'll need someway to control fermentation temperature at a low level ( 50-55F). 

Welcome to your new obsession.

1397
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: timing a lager D-rest
« on: May 17, 2013, 09:01:06 AM »
Diacetyl is always produced AFAIK but some yeasts are better at getting rid of it than others.  I don't think I've ever needed a diacetyl rest with WY2206.  Same with 2124 now that I think about it.  If I don't smell or taste diacetyl, I don't bother with a rest.

I use 2124 (or WLP830) for all my lagers...maybe that's why I never have any issue.

1398
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: timing a lager D-rest
« on: May 17, 2013, 06:56:07 AM »
I pitch cold (45F) and let it free rise and hold at 50F.  Near the end of fermentation, I may raise it 5 degrees or so for a couple days.  I am a believer if you pitch cold, diacetyl is minimized, requiring only a minimal D-rest. 

I've done about 6 lagers, entered a few of them in several competitions and never got any feedback regarding diacetyl.


1399
Equipment and Software / Re: Those little red cans of Oxygen
« on: May 16, 2013, 01:44:45 PM »
How long do you run it and at what setting?  I run mine so I can see it bubbling to the surface and usually only about 45 seconds to a minute ( a little bit more for big beers ).

The red canisters are also different sizes.  I'm still using my larger one ( probably have 8 beers on it ) and I have a skinnier one for backup.

1400
Classifieds / Re: Club T-shirts
« on: May 16, 2013, 05:52:09 AM »
You know you are going to get a lot of people saying "Doh!" to you and calling you Homer.

And if you wear it elsewhere (i.e. not beer related events), they are going to ask why you have an artichoke on your shirt  ;D

Cool shirt though.

1401
I started out with extract after my wife bought me a homebrew kit at a brewer's festival.  I think I did 3 or 4 batches, but then stopped brewing for a while ( :P).  I took up the hobby again a couple years later, brewed maybe 3 extract recipes, then switched to all-grain, and have been doing them for about 6 years.  I haven't done an extract recipe since (unless you count starters  ;D).


1402
This featured article popped up on CNN Money's website this morning regarding new businesses opened in 2013.  The first business is Amarillo Brewing Supply.  I love when the hobby gets this national exposure.  Anyone close to Amarillo? 

http://money.cnn.com/gallery/smallbusiness/2013/05/13/new-business/index.html?iid=Lead

1403
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Handle on 20 LB CO2
« on: May 13, 2013, 08:44:25 AM »
Regulators are pretty standard shapes and every tank needs one, so I can't imagine a tank would be sold that couldn't work with one.

The only reason I asked is because one site I saw actually said "may not work with all regulators because of the handle". 

It looks like it's not going to be a problem though. 

Thanks.

1404
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Bottling prep
« on: May 13, 2013, 07:16:44 AM »
All bottles should be cleaned and sanitized, new or reused.  I drop my bottle caps in star san and then cap.  If they are wet, they are sanitized (let them soak for about 30 seconds).  There's no need to sanitize the emily capper. 

I place the sanitized cap on the bottle, doing several at a time, and then do each one with the capper.

1405
Equipment and Software / Re: Mesh bags for hops?
« on: May 10, 2013, 11:31:08 AM »
Wouldn't the bag melt if it touches the bottom? Or do you keep the bag off the bottom somehow?

I use a hop spider now and the bag doesn't touch but when I used the plain bag, I would tie the string to the handle and make sure it was high enough.  I got sick of trying to untwist the bag when adding more hops (that sucker got hot!!) which is why I went to the spider.

I don't feel like I'm losing anything using the spider, but there is a ton of room in a 5 gallon paint strainer bag and the hops do get tossed around during the boil.

1406
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Handle on 20 LB CO2
« on: May 10, 2013, 07:38:07 AM »
That's what I wanted to hear...thanks.

I'm amazed that I can fill the 20 lb tank for less than what I can exchange one 5 lb tank.  I figured out that each time I fill the 20 lb, it would be a savings of about $49 over 4 exchanges.  Since I'm planning to move the tank outside the kegerator anyways (and free up space for 1 more keg), it seems like a no brainer.

1407
Kegging and Bottling / Handle on 20 LB CO2
« on: May 10, 2013, 07:19:34 AM »
Ok...dumb Friday question.

I'm looking to get a bigger co2 tank and I'm thinking of the 20 lb (mostly because I can get it filled locally for $15).  These bigger tanks have a handle on them, and every promotional shot online makes it look like the regulator will have trouble connecting because the handle is in the way.

Anyone that has one of these tanks, do the handles spin so you can connect most regulators to it?

I told you...dumb question but my mind is already in the weekend  ;D

1409
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling for Competitions?
« on: May 09, 2013, 01:16:52 PM »
When I bottle for comps, I use the Beergun and brand new bottles, and hit it with a little CO2 just before capping (very easy to do with the Beergun).

I'm not sure how well you can control with carb tabs, especially since you've already carbonated in the keg. 

1410
Yeast and Fermentation / Starter: Step Up or Two Separate
« on: May 09, 2013, 12:24:51 PM »
In about 10 days, I am going to brew a doppelbock with an OG of  about 1.085.   I just purchased 2 packets of Wyeast 2124 that I was going to make a starter with.  I have a 2L flask and a stir plate that can handle that volume (i.e. it will not run a 5L flask) and I don't have time to brew another smaller beer and repitch the yeast.

I was on yeastcalc.com and see there is a new setting that Kai had developed.  After inputting required info, it looks like I would need to step up the starter a couple times (3 2L starters to be exact, although it's a little too close to the amount...I always like a little cushion) to get to the amount of yeast I need. Funny thing is with Kai's formula, if I only use 1 pack of yeast, the end result is almost the same, about 661B cells.

Now I have time to do this, but I noticed the first starter grows the cell count to about 352B cells.  Would it be possible to get a second 2L flask and do 2 separate yeast starters and combine them on brew day for a total of 700B cells instead of trying to grow up a starter with a couple other steps? 

It would definitely save time, and give me a little more insurance that there is enough yeast available.

Thanks.

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