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Messages - ultravista

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1
I don't open the chest freezer too often, maybe once or twice a month. The walls are somewhat wet and the bottom grows mold. Not sure how that works since it's pretty darned cold down there.

What do we do about the mold?

2
Similar situation here, using an Eva Dry too but it doesn't seem to help.

3
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dry hopping in the keg questions ?
« on: October 28, 2017, 09:33:02 AM »
Good to know Denny ;D.

For me, laziness is the sole reason the hops stay in the keg.

4
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dry hopping in the keg questions ?
« on: October 28, 2017, 07:45:43 AM »
I find keg hopping gives me more flavor and aroma for a longer time.

Denny - do you leave the hops in the keg until the keg kicks? What is the longest you've done this? My kegs last a few months ...

5
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dry hopping in the keg questions ?
« on: October 28, 2017, 07:42:27 AM »
I use a 11.5" 400 Micron Stainless Corny Keg Dry Hop Filter. I just tie a piece of plain dental floss to the top of the filter lid and secure the floss to the underside of the lid, the well for the purge valve, with a small stainless steel hose clamp.

I do not recommend routing the floss over/under the lid seal to the outside of the keg. Doing this resulted in poor seals, with and without keg lube.

https://utahbiodieselsupply.com/brewingfilters.php#cornydryhopper

I have two of these filters and don't over fill either one. A few ounces of hops expand like a mother trucker, and I suspect, lead to inefficient extraction if not agitated and allowed to expand/compress.

The hops stay in the keg for the duration unless I need the filter for something else. Not a heavy consumer, I have left the hops in the keg for 4+ months with no vegetal off-flavors (to my pallet).

6
Ingredients / Re: Help me buy my hops for the year
« on: October 20, 2017, 06:14:42 AM »
How would Chinook taste in a NEIPA?

7
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: brew bag question
« on: October 15, 2017, 10:13:32 AM »
I squeeze as much wort out of the bag as possible. After the tun drains from the batch sparge, I sit the bag in a large mesh colander and let gravity have a go for a while. With a bit of prodding and pushing, I get another gallon out of the bag.

Because of this, I adjusted my Beersmith profile to have a BIAB grain absorption (.586) instead of all grain (.96). This nets me just the right amount of water & wort.

8
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash in a Bag (MIAB) Beersmith Mash Profiles?
« on: September 28, 2017, 09:11:28 PM »
802Chris - did you adjust the grain absorption for 'normal' brewing similar to the BIAB absorption?

9
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash in a Bag (MIAB) Beersmith Mash Profiles?
« on: September 28, 2017, 06:47:20 AM »
BrewBama - will you share the BS profile? I prefer to have a working mash profile vs. adjusting overall BS settings.

10
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash in a Bag (MIAB) Beersmith Mash Profiles?
« on: September 27, 2017, 09:16:01 PM »
Thank you for the feedback.

11
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash in a Bag (MIAB) Beersmith Mash Profiles?
« on: September 26, 2017, 09:09:01 PM »
Absorption, hand't thought of that.

I believe it is because I let the bag drain over time. In the Rubbermaid cooler with graduated markings, I net at least 1 gallon of wort > 1.040. I hate to let this go.

My options are too discard, toss it in the kettle & boil longer, or boil it on the stove & concentrate it into a sticky goo. It adds a few points to the gravity at such a high concentration.

In BS, I adjusted the mash absorption from .96 to .568 to match the BIAB absorption and it brought the water requirements down about a gallon - just as the BIAB mash profile did.

Since this is only MIAB, batch sparge occurs after draining the first runnings.

This just may work.

12
All Grain Brewing / Mash in a Bag (MIAB) Beersmith Mash Profiles?
« on: September 26, 2017, 07:12:39 PM »
I mash in a bag (MIAB) not a full BIAB. The process is mash in the bag, drain, batch sparge with about a gallon of hot water, drain again - then let the bag drain (with some squeezing) while the wort is in the kettle and heating.

Because I let the bag drain, I end-up with about 1 gallon of wort which leads to a longer boil time as the batch is over target volume.

The BIAB profiles require approximately 1 gallon less that a batch sparge profile when playing with the profiles. I've tried tweaking the BIAB profiles to require a gallon less pre-boil but I can't get it quite right.

So, is there a MIAB profile that may do what I need OR a helpful push in the right direction to create my own?

Hope this makes sense ..

13
Ingredients / Re: Hop Extract & 30 Minute Boils
« on: September 24, 2017, 09:42:08 AM »
I draw hot wort off the kettle into a Pyrex measuring cup and inject the hop shot into the near-boiling wort. Drawing the wort into the syringe a few times cleans it out pretty well. The measuring cup is dumped into the kettle - done.

14
Ingredients / Re: Hop Extract & 30 Minute Boils
« on: September 15, 2017, 07:22:27 AM »
What are your thoughts then on a 30 minute boil w/at least 30 minute cool down to 180F before adding the steeping hops?

Do you think the 30+30 will extract sufficient bittering compared to a 60 minute boil w/rapid cooling?

15
Ingredients / Re: Hop Extract & 30 Minute Boils
« on: September 15, 2017, 06:53:47 AM »
I normally do a 60 minute boil with a long flameout cool down period. With a 6 gallon batch, the wort sits for at least an hour in the kettle with steeping hops thrown it @ 180 F.

The hot wort rest period should continue to extract bitterness, correct?

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