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Topics - ultravista

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Yeast and Fermentation / WLP530 vs. WLP545?
« on: March 16, 2014, 02:50:32 PM »
I have an upcoming brew that calls for WLP545 (Ardennes) but have 530 (Abbey) on hand.

How significantly different would the beer turn out if I were to use 530 instead of 545? Really noticeable or ...?

Beer Recipes / DFH Raison D'etre All Grain Recipe Wanted
« on: March 12, 2014, 07:16:35 PM »
I'm looking for a tried and true all grain Raison D'etre recipe. Yes, I know there's a recipe in Sam's book but I can't seem to find someone who tried it and rates it as good as the real deal. It should be the real deal ...

Also, what is a decent sub for Belgian Ardennes (3522)? Would just about any Belgian yeast do or is Ardennes a must?

All Grain Brewing / How Fast do you Chill Your Wort Post Boil?
« on: February 11, 2014, 07:42:10 AM »
To maximize aroma and flavor, how fast are you chilling your wort after the last hop addition or flameout?

General Homebrew Discussion / Raisins - to Boil or Not to Boil?
« on: January 11, 2014, 08:01:55 AM »
I made a four gallon porter, adding 1 pound of flame torched caramelized raisins (ala Lost Abbey) during the boil. After torching the raisins, I pureed them with a cup or two of hot wort, and dumped the slurry into the kettle. The raisins boiled for an hour or more. I also added 1 pound of Piloncillo sugar to the boil.

The wort fermented with WLP530 to give it a Belgiany flavor. Starting gravity was around 1.070 and two weeks later, it terminated at 1.010.

The resulting beer is has absolutely no raisin flavor - none. With a pound of raisins in a four gallon batch, a raisin flavor should be very apparent. For argument sake, Dog Fish Head Raisin Detre calls for 8 ounces and there is no mistaking it is a raisin beer.

I suspect the long boil is the root of the absent raisin flavor.

Does anyone have experience brewing with raisins and perhaps a similar experience? Did the boil kill the flavor?

Beer Recipes / Judgment Day Clone (provided by Lost Abbey)
« on: January 01, 2014, 07:25:53 PM »
A contact at Lost Abbey provided me with the following Judgment Day recipe. It should be enough to get a near-identical replica with a few tweaks. What was not revealed was the mash and hop schedule, fermentation temperature, and sugar/raisin timing.

OG: 1.092
TG: 1.014
ABV: 10.5%
IBU: 25

2-Row 79%
Cara Wheat: 4%
77L Crisp: 6%
120L Crisp: 5%
Special B: 3%
Chocolate Malt: 3%

Hop: German Magnum

Yeast: Abbey (proprietary strain)

Dextrose: 300 lbs/batch
Raisins: 180 lbs/batch (sourced from Sysco)

The grain bill totals 100%, however, the dextrose and raisin additions are not accounted for in the percentages. These sugar and raisin calculations are framed for a 5 gallon batch. I doubt the raisin will have a material impact to gravity whereas the dextrose will.

Dextrose is 300 lbs. per batch (30 barrels @ 31 gallons)
* 300/(30*31)=0.323 per gallon
* 0.323*5=1.615 pounds or 1 pound 9.84 ounces (.774*16) per 5 gallons

Raisins is 180 lbs. per batch
*180/(30*31)=0.194 per gallon
*.914*5=0.97 or 1 pound per 5 gallons

My brewery contact wouldn’t provide any additional detail … help me figure out the remaining details.

1. When to add the dextrose – boil or post-boil and when (perhaps late in the boil to improve hop extraction – lower gravity)? I believe the sugar ought to be accounted for in the grist bill although it was not listed as such by my brewery contact. Considering the starting gravity of 1.092, adding 1.6 pounds of sugar increases gravity to 1.104 (BeerSmith 2).

My adjustments:

2-Row 73.8%
Dextrose: 6.6
Cara Wheat: 12.5%
77L Crisp: 5.6%
120L Crisp: 4.7%
Special B: 2.8%
Chocolate Malt: 2.8%

2. Torched, chopped and caramelized with first running’s – perhaps near the end of the boil or flameout. As documented in a Lost Abbey video, they torch their raisins in a hop back and bottom flow the wort. Any raisins post-fermentation?
3. Single infusion mash temperature - perhaps 150-152F.
4. Hop schedule - perhaps majority bittering @ start of boil and a small charge at flameout.
5. Abbey yeast - perhaps WLP530 fermented @ 65F.

Thanks in advance!

General Homebrew Discussion / 200 Micron Bag too Fine for Hops?
« on: November 24, 2013, 09:09:26 AM »
I use a 200 micron filter bag on my hop spider and have begun to wonder if it is too fine to let the hop goodness flavor the boiling wort. To my pallet, it seems like flavor and aroma is missing, despite long hop stands post boil.

I went with 200 micron to keep my plate chiller clean.

For those of you using spiders - what size bag are you using?

Is 200 micron too fine?

I will be brewing an imperial porter with a gravity of about 1.086 to 1.088 this weekend and looking for suggestions for a second running's batch.

I haven't done it before and could use some help, including, wort collection and storage if necessary. With one burner and kettle, it will have to wait until the next day if the brew day runs late.

What can I make from the second running's, what kind of gravity can I expect, how much wort should I collect the second time around, and what amendments should I ad?

In the freezer I have plenty of DME and about a pound of Perle. I have some WLP530 stored from a Westy 12 clone too. Not sure how any of this would work but maybe a weird Belgiany porter with a pound of caramelized raisins, brown or Mexican sugar, or ...?

General Homebrew Discussion / Dry Hopping: How Much Hops?
« on: October 29, 2013, 06:59:16 AM »
A recently brewed Stone Double Bastard is missing some of the Chinook goodness that comes in the bottle.

The 5.5 gallon batch has 5.5 oz. of Chinook (12.7 AA) - 3.5 oz. at 90 minutes, 1.5 at 15, and .5 at flameout (about 180F). It is plenty hoppy but that distinctive Chinook aroma and flavor is absent. OG and FG is 1.104 and 1.024.

With that said, I am considering dry hopping.

How much of the 12.7 AA Chinook will I need to get noticeable flavor and aroma out of the keg?

General Homebrew Discussion / WLP530 Yeast For Raison D'Etre?
« on: October 26, 2013, 07:34:08 AM »
I plan on brewing a Dogfish Head Raison D'Etre clone in a few weeks and would like to know how WLP530 will work with the batch. The recipe calls for 3522 Belgian Ardennes/WLP550 Belgian Ale Yeast.

Saisons, Belgian Ales, Belgian Reds, Belgian Browns, and White beers are just a few of the classic Belgian beer styles that can be created with this yeast strain. Phenolic and spicy flavors dominate the profile, with less fruitiness then WLP500.

Attenuation - 78-85%
Flocculation - Medium
Optimum Ferment Temp - 68-78°F
Alcohol Tolerance - Medium-High

Used to produce Trappist style beers. Similar to WLP500, but is less fruity and more alcohol tolerant (up to 15% ABV). Excellent yeast for high gravity beers, Belgian ales, dubbels and trippels.

Attenuation - 75-80%
Flocculation - Medium to High
Optimum Ferment Temp - 66-72°F
Alcohol Tolerance - High

Yeast and Fermentation / Change in WLP007 Behavior (washed yeast)
« on: October 19, 2013, 07:57:09 AM »
Something odd I noticed about my WLP007 starter (washed)...

When I built my first starter the clumps were much large. After using that starter, washing it, then building another starter, the clumps are much smaller. It still drops pretty quick and compacts at the bottom.

The starter fermented quick too.

If the clumping is flocculation, then it is flocculating different now.

Should I not save this from the next batch, opt for a new vial & start saving again?

For those of you that have washed and reused WLP007 - do you see the same thing (smaller clumping) or is something different going on with mine?

Yeast and Fermentation / WLP002 or WLP007 for Arrogant Bastard?
« on: July 25, 2013, 07:24:43 AM »
I've brewed A.B. several times now with WLP007. Last night I was reading The Craft of Stone Brewing and dagnabbit, nearly all of the recipes they provide cite either 002 or 007 for fermentation.

I am looking for feedback from those that have brewed A.B. with both 002 and 007 and the perceived/real differences between the two. For example, will 002 produce a maltier character vs. 007 drying the beer out?

And of the two, which do you prefer, and why?

Yeast and Fermentation / Yeast Choice for Imperial Porter?
« on: July 24, 2013, 06:33:53 AM »
A pro-brewer friend provided a recipe for an imperial porter and suggested the following for the yeast.

"Good attenuating, malt accentuating, low ester producing ale strain. Look at the English & Scottish strains - find one without heavy aroma/estery character."

The starting OG is 1.084 and it should finish around 1.015.

Can someone suggest a good attenuating, malt accentuating, low ester producing English/Scottish ale yeast strain that would compliment an imperial porter?

Yeast and Fermentation / Yeast Choice for Stone Double Bastard?
« on: July 06, 2013, 08:56:48 AM »
I've brewed CYBI's Arrogant Bastard (90% 2-row/10% Special B) a few times now with WLP007.

 I am looking for feedback on different yeast strains for Arrogant Bastard and Double Bastard.

 Other strains some have used are WLP001, WLP002 and WLP051.

 To me, 007 seems to really dry the beer out. I have not used 002 or 051 yet ...

General Homebrew Discussion / What Hops for Imperial Porter?
« on: June 05, 2013, 08:37:52 PM »
Looking for suggestions on which hops, and at what schedule, for an imperial porter. It will be in the 1.080 starting gravity range.

The recipe I have suggests Phoenix @ 90 minutes and First Gold @ 30 minutes. Maybe a decent substitute?

Confused ... :confused:

I brewed a Rogue Double Dead Guy clone, mashed at 152F - it started at 1.084 and finished at 1.010, fermented with Wyeast Pacman. No mash out.

Beersmith calculates that as a 82.7% attenuation. OG measured with a refractometer and FG measured with two hydrometers.

Wyeast's stats are 72-78% attenuation for this strain.

The yeast was about 11 months old, smelled and tasted good, and pretty creamy white. I made a 2L starter with the decanted slurry and it took off in about 4 to 6 hours.

I hit the wort with O2 and pitched the decanted starter. Within 4 to 8 hours it began to show signs of fermentation.

The beer fermented @ 65F in a refrigerator (measured by a thermowell) for about 3 weeks. I let it sit on the yeast cake @ 45F for another three weeks. Approximately 6 weeks total.

This recipe should have finished around 1.018 - 1.020, mine however continued to 1.010. As a result, it is much drier with an alcohol bite. At 6 weeks old, it's not so green anymore.

With that being said, what in your opinion might account for the higher attenuation?

If anything, I suspect old/aged yeast would be less attenuating, unless it mutated.

What about sitting on the yeast cake for an extended period? After three weeks @ 65F, the yeast should have been entirely done, and at 45F, the yeast should be dormant and inactive.

Would over pitching push it lower?

Would no mash out increase attenuation?

Any ideas?

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