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Topics - ultravista

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Yeast and Fermentation / HELP: WLP540 Abbey IV Attenuation
« on: October 04, 2014, 01:18:46 PM »
On 09/05, I brewed a Rochefort 8 - mashed at 149F, with an OG 1.087, aerated with O2, pitched with a 3L starter of WLP540 Abbey IV, and fermented at 71-72F. Beersmith estimated this to land somewhere near 1.010.

Exactly a month later, it is at 1.023 despite rousing the yeast, bumping to 74F, and adding leftover yeast from the 3L starter.

Beersmith calculates 1.087 > 1.023 as 71.9% apparent attenuation. White labs states 74-82% attenuation.

At this point, it is a bit too sweet, and I don't know what else to do to bring it down.

Should I perhaps bring it up a few more degrees and rouse the yeast again? If yes, how high should I go at this point? Ambient house temperature is approximately 78 F.

I am planning a 10%+ ABV beer destined for bourbon oaking.

Given the same toast and type of oak, is there much of a difference in chips, cubes, spirals, sticks, or?

Between WLP001 and WLP007, which will produce a drier beer?

Going with a higher gravity beer, 1.080+. Mash somewhere in the 150 ballpark for 60-90 minutes.

For the 2012 Lagunitas Hop Stoopid Challenge, can someone post the winning recipe?

Lagunitas posted a foundation recipe, inviting others to contribute.

I am looking for a solid, tried-and-true, clone of Hop Stoopid.

Beer Recipes / Wanted: Three Floyds Dark Lord Imperial Stout
« on: June 04, 2014, 04:39:00 PM »
Does anyone have a tried and true (or very close) Three Floyds Dark Lord Imperial Stout recipe?

Yeast and Fermentation / Sulfur Smell from 1 Month Old Beer
« on: April 25, 2014, 06:56:02 AM »
I brewed a clone of Dog Fish Head's Raison D'etre. A simple malt bill with 8 ounces of raisins, fermented with WLP530. The beer fermented at 70-72F, then dropped to 42F to clear and prepare for kegging. It sat at 72f for about a week and at 42f for three weeks.

Although I cannot get taste any off-flavors, I get a sulfur smell off this month old beer. The beer tastes great but that smell right-off the pour is concerning. It seems to dissipate quick when poured.

Any ideas what may have caused this and is there anything I can do?

Yeast and Fermentation / Why Quick Start on Yeast Cake?
« on: April 20, 2014, 08:22:18 PM »
I brewed batch # 1 on 03/24, left it on the yeast at 42-44F for the last two weeks to clear. The beer was on the yeast cake (WLP530) for a month.

Today I brewed batch # 2. Transferred batch # 1 to the keg, put it back into the refrigerator, and worked on # 2. Same malt bill, hops, etc.

Due to an error on my part, the beer entering the carboy was about 83F. I hit it with O2 for about 60 seconds, and let it settle before putting it into the refrigerator.

Within 10 minutes of the 02, and approximately 20 minutes after transferring from the keggle, it began to start fermenting. I thought it was residual O2, or perhaps CO2 from the cake. Nope, it started fermenting.

Is this common for pitching on a cake, near immediate start. Lag time was 20 minutes or less.

Yeast and Fermentation / WLP530 vs. WLP545?
« on: March 16, 2014, 02:50:32 PM »
I have an upcoming brew that calls for WLP545 (Ardennes) but have 530 (Abbey) on hand.

How significantly different would the beer turn out if I were to use 530 instead of 545? Really noticeable or ...?

Beer Recipes / DFH Raison D'etre All Grain Recipe Wanted
« on: March 12, 2014, 07:16:35 PM »
I'm looking for a tried and true all grain Raison D'etre recipe. Yes, I know there's a recipe in Sam's book but I can't seem to find someone who tried it and rates it as good as the real deal. It should be the real deal ...

Also, what is a decent sub for Belgian Ardennes (3522)? Would just about any Belgian yeast do or is Ardennes a must?

All Grain Brewing / How Fast do you Chill Your Wort Post Boil?
« on: February 11, 2014, 07:42:10 AM »
To maximize aroma and flavor, how fast are you chilling your wort after the last hop addition or flameout?

General Homebrew Discussion / Raisins - to Boil or Not to Boil?
« on: January 11, 2014, 08:01:55 AM »
I made a four gallon porter, adding 1 pound of flame torched caramelized raisins (ala Lost Abbey) during the boil. After torching the raisins, I pureed them with a cup or two of hot wort, and dumped the slurry into the kettle. The raisins boiled for an hour or more. I also added 1 pound of Piloncillo sugar to the boil.

The wort fermented with WLP530 to give it a Belgiany flavor. Starting gravity was around 1.070 and two weeks later, it terminated at 1.010.

The resulting beer is has absolutely no raisin flavor - none. With a pound of raisins in a four gallon batch, a raisin flavor should be very apparent. For argument sake, Dog Fish Head Raisin Detre calls for 8 ounces and there is no mistaking it is a raisin beer.

I suspect the long boil is the root of the absent raisin flavor.

Does anyone have experience brewing with raisins and perhaps a similar experience? Did the boil kill the flavor?

Beer Recipes / Judgment Day Clone (provided by Lost Abbey)
« on: January 01, 2014, 07:25:53 PM »
A contact at Lost Abbey provided me with the following Judgment Day recipe. It should be enough to get a near-identical replica with a few tweaks. What was not revealed was the mash and hop schedule, fermentation temperature, and sugar/raisin timing.

OG: 1.092
TG: 1.014
ABV: 10.5%
IBU: 25

2-Row 79%
Cara Wheat: 4%
77L Crisp: 6%
120L Crisp: 5%
Special B: 3%
Chocolate Malt: 3%

Hop: German Magnum

Yeast: Abbey (proprietary strain)

Dextrose: 300 lbs/batch
Raisins: 180 lbs/batch (sourced from Sysco)

The grain bill totals 100%, however, the dextrose and raisin additions are not accounted for in the percentages. These sugar and raisin calculations are framed for a 5 gallon batch. I doubt the raisin will have a material impact to gravity whereas the dextrose will.

Dextrose is 300 lbs. per batch (30 barrels @ 31 gallons)
* 300/(30*31)=0.323 per gallon
* 0.323*5=1.615 pounds or 1 pound 9.84 ounces (.774*16) per 5 gallons

Raisins is 180 lbs. per batch
*180/(30*31)=0.194 per gallon
*.914*5=0.97 or 1 pound per 5 gallons

My brewery contact wouldn’t provide any additional detail … help me figure out the remaining details.

1. When to add the dextrose – boil or post-boil and when (perhaps late in the boil to improve hop extraction – lower gravity)? I believe the sugar ought to be accounted for in the grist bill although it was not listed as such by my brewery contact. Considering the starting gravity of 1.092, adding 1.6 pounds of sugar increases gravity to 1.104 (BeerSmith 2).

My adjustments:

2-Row 73.8%
Dextrose: 6.6
Cara Wheat: 12.5%
77L Crisp: 5.6%
120L Crisp: 4.7%
Special B: 2.8%
Chocolate Malt: 2.8%

2. Torched, chopped and caramelized with first running’s – perhaps near the end of the boil or flameout. As documented in a Lost Abbey video, they torch their raisins in a hop back and bottom flow the wort. Any raisins post-fermentation?
3. Single infusion mash temperature - perhaps 150-152F.
4. Hop schedule - perhaps majority bittering @ start of boil and a small charge at flameout.
5. Abbey yeast - perhaps WLP530 fermented @ 65F.

Thanks in advance!

General Homebrew Discussion / 200 Micron Bag too Fine for Hops?
« on: November 24, 2013, 09:09:26 AM »
I use a 200 micron filter bag on my hop spider and have begun to wonder if it is too fine to let the hop goodness flavor the boiling wort. To my pallet, it seems like flavor and aroma is missing, despite long hop stands post boil.

I went with 200 micron to keep my plate chiller clean.

For those of you using spiders - what size bag are you using?

Is 200 micron too fine?

I will be brewing an imperial porter with a gravity of about 1.086 to 1.088 this weekend and looking for suggestions for a second running's batch.

I haven't done it before and could use some help, including, wort collection and storage if necessary. With one burner and kettle, it will have to wait until the next day if the brew day runs late.

What can I make from the second running's, what kind of gravity can I expect, how much wort should I collect the second time around, and what amendments should I ad?

In the freezer I have plenty of DME and about a pound of Perle. I have some WLP530 stored from a Westy 12 clone too. Not sure how any of this would work but maybe a weird Belgiany porter with a pound of caramelized raisins, brown or Mexican sugar, or ...?

General Homebrew Discussion / Dry Hopping: How Much Hops?
« on: October 29, 2013, 06:59:16 AM »
A recently brewed Stone Double Bastard is missing some of the Chinook goodness that comes in the bottle.

The 5.5 gallon batch has 5.5 oz. of Chinook (12.7 AA) - 3.5 oz. at 90 minutes, 1.5 at 15, and .5 at flameout (about 180F). It is plenty hoppy but that distinctive Chinook aroma and flavor is absent. OG and FG is 1.104 and 1.024.

With that said, I am considering dry hopping.

How much of the 12.7 AA Chinook will I need to get noticeable flavor and aroma out of the keg?

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