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Messages - sailortodd

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interesting idea, but making a "Califrowler" causes marketing problems for the breweries, doesn't it? Not being able to display their own label on their own product could be an issue the breweries will have. I'm all for being able to use X growler at Y brewery, but mandating a statewide growler be used is kind of odd.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Tell me about Kolsch please
« on: July 12, 2011, 12:19:28 AM »
had a Fruh Kolsch from cologne last night. my son brought back a few from solingen as well as berliner pilsner.  it was pretty good but i don't see the attraction to brew one over other light refreshing styles.
Kolsch, to me, takes the best of both pilsner lagers and light ales in its best iterations. That's why I want to brew one.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mashing Ratios
« on: July 12, 2011, 12:08:17 AM »
What would the point be of sparging with 1.5x the mash volume (as opposed to sparging with equal amount, or with volume necessary to reach boil volume if you work backward like Denny)? Better efficiency? Get more of the good stuff out? I really think, at least for home brewing purposes, Denny's approach makes the most sense. I don't think you'd lose enough in efficiency not using exactly 1.5x mash water to sparge.

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: partial mash in oven?
« on: July 06, 2011, 01:41:13 AM »
What size pot are any of you mashing in when you do a partial mash in the oven? The biggest I have at this point is a 3 gallon, and was considering trying it out to benefit from some of the specialty grains that need to be mashed.

Yeast and Fermentation / High fermentation temps
« on: July 02, 2011, 06:21:23 PM »
I recently collaborated on an IPA with a buddy, and it is currently fermenting at his place. Unfortunately, the temp control at his place isn't great, and is out of my hands. The ambient temp will likely be around 75-77 a good portion of the time. Kind of out of my control, and I wish I could do something about it, but all I'll really be able to do is taste the results. For reference, recipe as follows:

10# pale LME
.75# Crystal 40L (steeped)
.75# Victory (steeped)
1.5 oz Willamette x 60 min
.5oz Northern Brewer x 60 min
1 oz Willamette x 15 min
1 oz Willamette x 1 min
.5 oz Willamette DH @ 7 days
2 packets US-05 dry yeast.

At such high ferm temps, what can I expect with US-05? Overwhelming fruity esters? Fusel alcohols that'll make it taste like jet fuel? Just kind of curious how bad it can be.

Equipment and Software / Re: tube screen and "ice cube" ice chest LT
« on: July 02, 2011, 05:45:55 PM »
Awesome. Yes, I'll be batch sparging. I forgot to mention that. I'm aware of the problem of channeling I'd end up with if I tried to fly sparge.

This means I may go AG much sooner than I had originally thought. I'll just need a bigger brew kettle for a full volume boil now before I can really get started.

Equipment and Software / tube screen and "ice cube" ice chest LT
« on: July 02, 2011, 05:04:20 PM »
I have a 48 qt ice cube ice chest that I'd like to convert into my first MLT. I was wondering if a 9 or 12 inch tube screen, similar to this (found on, but available also at my LHBS):

will be enough to drain the cooler, or if it wouldn't cover enough of the bottom of the cooler to be effective. I've seen SS braid pulled off of water hoses used similarly, but does it use the same length? I know the braid has a tendency to collapse, but the tube screen I'm looking into is stiff, not flexible.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Big Brew Dry Hopping
« on: June 23, 2011, 05:41:47 PM »
Just personal opinion, but I'd go for authenticity, which it sounds like you're doing, by keeping it in for the length of a sail/steam voyage from England, around the Cape to India.

WRT grassy taste, if it doesn't fully impart its grassy flavor in the first couple of weeks, is it really going to impart more with months of DH?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Can I make whiskey in Florida
« on: June 23, 2011, 05:30:03 PM »
Can you make whiskey in Florida?  Yes.
May you make whiskey in Florida?  No.  ;)
Ha, well put. That takes me back to the first grade

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: The AHA in the NYT
« on: June 23, 2011, 05:26:28 PM »
Thanks for joining the discussion.  Since your article was aimed at new brewers, I'm even more mystified why you chose to focus so much on multi thousand dollar brewing systems instead of the more typical setup a new brewer might use.  I have a hard time imagining that anyone who has never brewed before would drop that kind of money on a system, not to mention the fact that without some experience those systems can be baffling to a brewer.
Meh, when the true beginner gets one of those systems, tries a batch, finds it overwhelming at his level, even with the multi-thousand dollar contraption, lets it collect dust for a while before realizing the space it's taking up would be better utilized with a table saw or tool chest, decides to sell it for a tenth of what it was originally worth, maybe I'll have enough to get the second hand gizmo. But I'm not holding my breath, and I'll continue to plan my "frankenstein" in the mean time.

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: specialty malts
« on: June 21, 2011, 03:02:01 PM »
Crystal 40 & Vienna as Denny mentioned. Munich works too. Maybe 1/2 lb each, or less, per 5 gallons.  Cheers!!!

Just to clarify, you're talking about Caravienne or Caramunich, right? Vienna and Munich malts require mashing, and I'm not sure those were the specialty grains the OP was referring to (I could also be wrong). I think he was referring to more specialty steeping grains.

I've read varying accounts of whether Victory requires a mash or not, and came to the ultimate conclusion that you'd get flavor and color from it, but no fermentables. I'm going to try it out in an upcoming IPA recipe.

As far as other specialty grains, would he benefit from Carapils/Dextrin malts? My understanding is they provide good body and head retention (I'm still new to specialty grains as well, so I speak mostly from book knowledge).

Ingredients / Re: Kolsch German VS American
« on: June 11, 2011, 07:38:08 PM »
Looking at the BJCP style guide, a koelsch doesn't have to have wheat in it, saying exactly:

"Up to 20% wheat may be used, but this is quite rare in authentic versions."

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Homebrewing class
« on: June 10, 2011, 04:04:40 PM »
I would say one of the keys to teaching people, especially if they're new to homebrewing, is to focus less on the technique and more on the feeling of how easy it is for them to do it.  Get them excited and confident and you'll have done your job well.
+1 The key is what level your audience is at.  If this is really for beginners, I'd focus on how easy homebrewing is.  For people like me who can get overwhelmed with details, homebrewing can sound intimidating (especially all the emphasis on sanitizing).  If they are people who have gotten their feet wet in homebrewing with just the basics, then maybe do grain steeping and how to make a kit better by adding other things. 
But, yeah, I'd go with the basics.  Just think how many people have been influenced to start homebrewing by DWHAHB. :)
I'd agree with both comments above. If there's anyone in the group who hasn't brewed before at all, trying to cover all grain or any sort of mashing process in depth would lose them fairly quickly. It's good as a "this is where the process can take you..." topic, but just learning the basics with extract brewing may be better. I think there's enough to cover with steeping grains and hop boils to take up an afternoon. Just a perspective from a fairly new brewer.


Yeah, that is a good point, if you are trying to nail a specific IBU, it would require different calculations if you don't have all of your extract in the full volume boil.

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: What does "dropped bright" mean
« on: June 09, 2011, 04:39:02 AM »
Some folks like to add the dry hops during the final stage of primary ferment (90%) to allow the yeast to scrub out any residual undesireables like O2 introduced upon dry hop, allthough I like to dry hop in the keg. Dropping bright is the point of complete primary fermentation when the beer is clear and ready for racking or bottling. The majority of the yeast has dropped out of suspension and active fermentation has ceased.
I'm guessing dry hopping in the keg just keeps more of the hop aroma around, gives it less time to dissipate?

Had a question in the lines of dry hopping... I dry hop when the beer "drops bright" or at least when most activity has stopped since I'm still using plastic and don't see it clear up. I've read a couple of threads (on HBT) with discussions of racking to secondary, and many insisted that dry hopping was one of those times it was important, even if they were against a secondary for clarity, etc. Is there really much to gain from racking to a secondary container/fermenter to dry hop? Or is it just as effective to dry hop in the primary container?

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