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Topics - rjharper

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31
Beer Recipes / Historic / Egyptian Brewing
« on: April 02, 2012, 03:33:21 PM »
So after visiting a Tutankhamen exhibit, and reading about the basic Egyptian beer process of making dough, baking it (enought to toast the outside but leave inside raw to maintain yeast and enzymes), mashing the bread overnight, then adding dates, herbs or spices, I want to give it a go.  There's not a lot on the web at first glance, so here's my best effort.  It's a no boil recipe based on the exhibit, but I want to tweak just enough to help sanitize / ensure yeast viability.



So, for three gallons
2lbs 2-row
2lbs malted wheat
1lb oats
Dry baking yeast

Combine grains (inc husks), add bakers yeast and suffient water for form loose dough.
Knead into 2 loaves, allow to to rise for 2hrs.
Bake loave @ 400F until crust is dark toast but not burnt.
Remove from oven.
Chop baked loaf and unbacked dough into 1/2" pieces.
Mash breads, chopped dates, saffron, and chamomile for 8hrs @ 145F (thinking no sparge, BIB style)

2lbs dates
1oz chamomile
1.0g saffron
3 camden tablets (my addition for some extra sanitation / yeast control)

WLP001 California Ale

Add camden tablets to primary fermenter.
Drain mash tun to primary
Wait 24 hrs
Pitch brewers yeast, and proceed as normal.

Pitching a SWAG for 50% efficiency and 3 gallons, I put this at ~1.050 OG ballpark.  Thoughts anyone?  I've love any input / suggestions / criticisms / encouragement!

Thanks, Ross

32
Equipment and Software / Beer Smith Bug?
« on: February 08, 2012, 12:01:35 PM »
I think I've noticed a bug in the last update to Beer Smith, so wanted to check with others and share.  I don't want anyone to overshoot their sparge volume until this get fixed.

I batch sparge.  On the Mash Details screen, under your mash profile, it tells you how much water to add during lautering and then the sparge.  On the most recent version, I've noticed that the amount of sparge water to add doesn't change, regardless of how much mash water you add, through changing the grist to water ratio.  I can go from 1 - 2 qt/lb, and the mash volume changes, but the sparge volume doesn't.  On the Water Vols screen, the sparge volume does change, so I think it's just the Mash Details screen has a minor bug.

EDIT - BeerSmith is great otherwise, and this is so minor its not a complaint, more of an FYI

33
Ingredients / Hop Bursting
« on: January 22, 2012, 01:37:37 AM »
Recently at the COOP Aleworks anniversary party, they unleashed a small batch IPA, with 24oz of hops in a 5 gal recipe.  Needless to say it was awesome, and gone in no time at all.  It got me thinking, and then Austin Homebrew has an 18oz hop value pack of 3oz each of Columbus, Warrior, Summit, Nugget, Galena and Willamette.  With the exception of Willamette, these are all high alpha varieties.  I'm thinking of brewing my usual 1.060 IPA grain bill, but hop bursting so the Warrior, Galena and Nugget go in at 5 mins, the Willamette at flameout, then dry hopping on the Summit and Columbus.

Any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks,

34
Yeast and Fermentation / First time with Brett
« on: December 08, 2011, 08:41:44 AM »
I brewed a Belgian Strong Dark about 10 days ago. It was 1.099 OG on WLP 550 Belgian Ale slurry, mashed at 156F, with D180 syrup.  Smells gorgeous.  SG after 10 days is 1.040 and its still going, albeit slowly, tastes good alrady but still sweet.  I've never Brett'ed before but its tempting, and this seems like a good candidate if I cant get it down to the target 1.018.  I'm tempted to let Sacch run its course then throw in a vial of WLP650 Brett Brux.  But I have unknowns, so help.

Starters.  Do I need a starter for WLP650? It says you can pitch direct, and that Brett should be underpitched. I;ve also read that its slow to get going so dont waste time, just pitch and be patient.

Bottle conditioning.  I don't want to put sour beer through the keg system.  Do I just wait for Brett to finish out, then prime and bottle like normal?  Do I need to to worry about bottle bombs?

Reusing equipment.  I've seen the argument of dedicated Brett equipment.  I've also seen the argument that PBW and sanitizer will take care of it. Just stick to metal and glass that doesnt scratch.  Maybe dedicate a bottling wand though.

Stuck fermentations.  Brett will eat what Sacch wont, right? So if your fermentation sticks, and you cant get it down low enough, and the style is right, one option to save the beer is to Brett it and forget it?

Thanks in advance.
Ross

35
Equipment and Software / Kettle Caramelization with BeerSmith?
« on: November 28, 2011, 06:21:38 PM »
Does anyone know of a way to account for kettle caramelization on BeerSmith with regard to extra boil off or increased SRM? I mean I could fudge it for volume by increasing the boil time, or I could create a different equipment profile with an increased boil off rate.  I'd like a way to record it other than just putting a comment on the notes page to remind me to add an extra 3qts to the sparge or something similar.

It would be nice to be able to specify some boil details such as this, or when to add sugars and extracts other than just full or after boil.

Any thoughts?

36
Homebrew Competitions / Oklahoma FOAM Cup and MCAB
« on: November 23, 2011, 01:45:38 PM »
Just wanted to brag a little.  I entered FOAM Cup this year in OK (my first comp ever) and took Golds for my Blonde Ale and my Barleywine, and a Bronze for my Russian Imperial Stout.  I also took 2nd place Best in Show with the Barleywine. :D

FOAM Cup is the only AHA sanctioned competition in OK, and an MCAB qualifier, so in 2 weeks, I've gone from never entered a competition, to planning for MCAB. Wooo...

37
Beer Recipes / Scottish 70
« on: November 22, 2011, 11:52:52 PM »
As a Scottish expat who "grew up" on pints of heavy, I'd love to brew a good 70/- to bring back a few memories (and get a yeast cake for my Traquair clone).  Trouble is, the BJCP guidelines are for a very basic malt profile (Marris Otter or Golden Promise) with some roast barley and guides against crystal or other modified malt, yet every recipe I see had lbs of crystal and brown and chocolate etc...

I'm tempted to take my Traquair recipe (actually it's basically Denny's recipe minus the fungus!) of 99% Golden Promise and 1% Roast Barley, and dial back the grains and hops to ~1.038 and 16 IBU accordingly.  I'm thinking single infusion @ 152F:

7.5 lbs Golden Promise / Marris Otter (depends if LHBS has Promise)
1.5 oz Roast Barley
.5 oz Kent Goldings @ 60 mins
.5 oz Kent Goldings @ 15 mins
WLP028 Edinburgh


This hits OG and IBUs but puts me low on SRMs, but I plan to compensate with some kettle caramelization.  Any thoughts?

38
All Grain Brewing / Strong RIS Mash Schedule
« on: October 07, 2011, 11:38:26 AM »
I'm about to brew a 1.130 RIS this weekend.  I'm looking for full body finish (Beersmith projects a 1.025), and is suggesting 30 mins protein at 122F then 30 mins sacch at 156F, and 1.3 qt/lb.  That sounds rather quick to me, especially given the 28lbs of grain, so I'm tempted to push it to 60 mins sacch, and change the ratio to 1.1 qt/lb. 
I've brewed some strong tripels and stouts in the past but those were extract, so any thoughts or suggestions from the more experienced crowd would be appreciated.  I've already knocked back my projected efficiency by a couple of points, and extended the boil time from 90 to 150 mins to account for the high gravity push.  And it goes without saying its big starter time, going to use a WLP007 yeast cake.

39
Classifieds / 1 spare ticket for GABF Fri evening and Sat afternoon
« on: September 27, 2011, 12:06:05 PM »
Looks like I'll have a spare ticket for Friday evening and also for the member session on Saturday afternoon.  Not member entrance unfortunately.  If somebody wanted to swap a Saturday evening that would be cool, otherwise I just need to offload them.  I'll be there to "will call" in person...

40
Yeast and Fermentation / Strong RIS - which yeast?
« on: September 17, 2011, 08:56:00 AM »
I'm planning a 15% RIS in the near future, something I can put away for years, or stick in a barrel if I can get one.  Anyways, I normally use WLP007 Dry English (WY1098) for my 11% recipe but I'm wondering if I should switch out for WLP001 California (WY1056) or even try WLP090 San Diego Super.

I'll probably brew starter beers and pitch on yeast, so I need to plan ahead.  I'll have WLP001 available from an 10% IPA, which was resued from a 5% Blonde, so that would be nicely stepped up.  I also have an Irish Red planned for WLP007 to begin with.

Thoughts or experience? Thanks,

41
Ingredients / Saffron?
« on: September 10, 2011, 10:59:01 PM »
Heading back from a trip to Dubai, where I picked up, amongst other things, a quantity of really nice, fresh saffron and I was wondering if anyone had used it successfully in an ale, or whether it's best kept for the usual culinary uses. I know DFH used it in Midas, but other than that I don't know of any other commercials.

I was leaning towards a blonde or wheat base, to let the color and flavor come through. Perhaps a wit recipe without the orange and coriander? Add at flameout?

42
Equipment and Software / Help me improve my efficiency
« on: September 04, 2011, 09:22:49 PM »
I have a HERMS rig.  I mash at 1.2-1.5 qt/lb depending on style, then add mash out water to batch sparge with equal volumes between and mash and sparge.  My mash out is a 5 min recycle at 170.  After draining, sparge is a 10 min recycle at 170.  My grain is crushed by the store.  I've calibrated an equipment profile on Beersmith for my system w/ dead volumes etc yet I cant seem to get past 65% efficiency.  I know that grain crush can make a big difference, and that brew store crushes are notoriously inefficient, but what else can i try.  I went straight from extract to AG so I dont have a previous number to compare.  Help?!

43
All Grain Brewing / Brewhouse lesson of the day
« on: August 21, 2011, 11:51:07 AM »
Don't add your rice hulls before your grain when you're recirculating the HERMS.  They go right through your false bottom and plug up your lines down stream.  Its not fun pulling apart the hard plumbing at 160F against the clock...

anyone else got a good lesson learnt the hard way?  ;D

44
Pimp My System / My new HERMS rig
« on: August 14, 2011, 04:04:27 PM »
After 6 years of extract I decided to switch to all-grain, and figured it was time to go big or go home.  So after lots of research, and 3 months of fabrication in the evenings and weekends, its finally done, and I brewed by first batch on it today (a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale clone).  First day's efficiency wasn't great, 63%, but its all improvement from here I hope.

About the system; 3 converted Sanke kegs, 2 banjo burners, 1 March pump, 10 ball valves, 25' x 1/2" HERMS coil, hard plumed with 1/2" OD stainless lines.  The frame is 1-1/2" square x 1/8" steel tube, powder coated with 1000F smoker paint (and it still blistered by the burner!).



I'll post more pics once I remember how to make an image folder public in Google Docs.


45
Ingredients / Hot water
« on: August 13, 2011, 07:11:51 PM »
Has anyone used the hot water tank drain valve to fill the HLT and save time/propane?  My theory is that the house hot water tank is in the garage, which is where I brew, and I have an RV hose that normally hits the ourstide faucet, then feeds the undersink filter, then onto the HLT.  If I flush any major sediment first, then the rest is trapped in the filter, then I can save time.  Am I missing something here, or should it be this easy?

Thanks
Ross

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