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Messages - gtoothaker

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Beer Travel / Re: Boulder
« on: April 12, 2011, 12:53:54 PM »
So it is worth hitting both the original Mtn Sun (16th & Pearl) and the Southern Sun (Table Mesa), slightly different beers on tap.  Avery tap room is a must hit as well.  Boulder Brewery is always nice, especially during a nice afternoon on the patio.  A few new shops are in town, Upslope in Northern Boulder and Asher Brewing in Niwot.  Asher is all organic and they make really good beer.  If looking for a great tap room, try Backcountry Pizza and Tap Room (Folsom & Arapahoe), they have around 50 beers on tap, all good stuff. West End Tavern has been sporting a great tap list as well. Nice views from the roof, but they aren't what they used to be. The Kitchen and Salt are nicer restaurants that have good beer lists, Salt lives up to it's name, you will need to drink more.   There are a lot of other good places in and around town, these are the top of mind.

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Aeration question re: lager fermentation
« on: January 11, 2011, 01:21:47 PM »
It is best to aerate when you are at your pitching temperature as your wort / beer can handle more dissolved O2 at lower temperatures. I would aerate at the same time as you inoculate (right before or right after) as cell growth will begin once pitched and that is really what you are trying to improve.

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Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Homebrew contest scores?
« on: August 05, 2010, 08:22:45 AM »
In addition to all of the above suggestions, if you are not already a BJCP judge, you should consider it.  You will learn a lot about brewing and common flaws while you educate yourself to take the test, and in my opinion, learning to evaluate and judging beers makes most brewers better. 

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I also found it entertaining that the full page Bud ad was facing the reader articles complaining about the ad. 

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Wood/Casks / Re: Plastic Firkins
« on: May 21, 2010, 09:49:50 AM »
Great tip on Jim's Beer Kit site.  I found a great write up on the subject.  I've posted the link below for anyone else.  Scroll down the post a little to see his setup.


http://jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=29703&p=321255&hilit=plastic+firkin#p321255


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Wood/Casks / Plastic Firkins
« on: May 21, 2010, 09:06:25 AM »
Hi all,

I just got an email from UK Brewing (no affiliation) about the availability of plastic firkins.  Does anyone have any experience with these or any opinions? They cost less new than SS (100 vs 175) and I've had a hard time coming across used firkins, or pins for that matter.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: My problem judging first round
« on: April 27, 2010, 05:03:16 PM »
One thing you may look into is allergy therapy / shots.  I started them last year and it has made a major difference for me this spring.  The process sucks, shots once a week for months on end, but the end result is great so far.  I've gotten off the wagon for my shots and not gone for a maintenance dose in the last few months, but all is still going fairly well.  My allergies are not 100% gone, but it is very easy to deal with them now and I can actually taste things in the spring.

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All Grain Brewing / Re: Monster Mill Questions
« on: April 16, 2010, 01:58:59 PM »
I have a 3 roller monster mill with a fly wheel and motor mount to drive it. 

I conditioned malt for the first time last weekend and had really good results.  Luckily when I built the hopper for my mill, I built in a shield above the top mill opening allowing me to control the amount of malt that goes through the mill at once.  I have never needed to govern the amount of malt going into the mill, but once I added conditioned pilsner malt (.3 oz H20per #) my mill got jammed.  I shut off the power to the motor and freed the jam.  I closed the opening to about an inch and a half and was able to mill successfully (5 #s).  I noticed quite a difference in the size of the husk after milling. Thanks for the conditioning advice Kaiser...

The conditioned malt definitely takes more umph from either the hand crank, drill or motor.  I found that reducing the amount of grain that goes in to solve the problem.  Based on results from conditioning, I will continue the practice.   

My grain 'governor' is nothing more than some sheet metal cut to size to cover the mill opening.  I left 1/16" opening on a narrow side where my hopper attaches to the face plate I built for the top of the mill.  I am able to slide this cover over the mill opening.  This makes it easy to cover or adjust the amount of malt that goes into the mill at once.

I can post a picture if that would help.

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Where are the fruity esters coming from?
« on: March 16, 2010, 08:54:51 AM »
Thanks for the help guys, to answer the outstanding questions:

I made the starter two days before pitching, I boiled 200 grams of light DME in 1800 ml of water for 15 mins, allowed to cool to 65F and transferred an Activator WYeast smackpack 2308 Munich Lager.  I also added in 1/8 tsp of yeast nutrient.  It was at high krausen when pitched.  How far ahead of time do you all typically start your starters, do you allow them to ferment fully, do you build them up?  If anyone can point me to more info on this, it sounds like I need to read up.

I aerated the wort during both transfers (from CFC, later after allowing cold-break to drop) by allowing it to splash from the top of the carboy to the wort surface.  I also shook each carboy for 5 minutes.  I think an aeration setup is in my future.

On the gravity, I designed the recipe with my typical efficiency, 65%.  I got a lot more out of my system as I tightened the gap on my mill and I think the decoction added quite a bit.

So now I've got an estery bock strength brown beer.  I'm at 1.024 gravity.  I was planning to push this down to 35F to lager as the gravity drops.  I know the lager period will diminish the esters slightly, but not a majority of them.  I may try to get creative with this batch, does anyone have experience souring a beer like this, or oaking it.  I've been experimenting with oaking different beers lately and have liked the results.  From what I've read, there may be enough sugar left to add some sour with the appropriate culture.  I'm open to suggestions.

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Where are the fruity esters coming from?
« on: March 15, 2010, 10:19:01 PM »
Sorry, I should have been a little more clear.  The wort was at 50F, the starter was at 65F.  I'm concerned that the liquid in the starter developed the esters from the warmer ferment temps and has carried this to the beer. I did a Munich Helles the next weekend and decanted the liquid portion from the starter, everything was at 50F and this one has no esters, sweet pilsner malt flavor.

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Yeast and Fermentation / Where are the fruity esters coming from?
« on: March 15, 2010, 10:02:48 PM »
I'm trying to figure out where the fruity ester taste of the batch I currently have fermenting came from. 

I brewed a Munich Dunkel a few weeks ago (2/20).  10 gallon all grain.  18lbs of Munich 10l, 5 lbs Munich 25l. 

Mash Schedule:
Infuse 5.75 gallons dough-in rest at 95 F 15 mins
Infuse 4 gallons rest at 134 Ffor a 30 min rest
Pull 4 gallons of a thick mash boil 30 min
Add back to main mash rest at 149 F 25 min
Pull 4.75 gallons of medium thick mash and took it to boil in about 15 minutes
Add back to mash rest at 158 F for 30 min (iodine test showed complete conversion)
Pulled 4 gallons of very thin mash brought to a boil mash out at around 165
This was my first decoction since some equip changes, I missed a few temps.

I boiled 90 minutes, added 2 oz Hallertau for 60, 1 oz Tettnanger for 30.  Whirl pooled and cooled via CFC in about 15 mins to 58F. OG was 1.070, my efficiency was better then expected (1.056).  I allowed it to sit overnight and cool to 50.  Transfered off cold break and pitched a 2000ml starter of WYeast Munich Lager @ 65F.  The started was started 2 days prior and I pitched the whole thing, liquid and all.  Two 5 gallon glass carboys. Steady ferment, beer in a fridge @ 48 - 50 F.  A few days ago on sampling gravity (down to 1.028) I picked up a medium fruity ester.  I will never pitch the liquid from a starter again, I have decanted two batches since then, but could that overpower the entire batch?  My gravity is currently at 1.024 and I've taken the beer up to 55 for a diacetyl rest.  Once my gravity gets below 1.016 I plan to start lagering. 

Any other thoughts? I was expecting very malty, not very fruity. 


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Other Fermentables / Homebrewopedia Cider Information
« on: November 04, 2009, 03:02:48 PM »
Denny,

Thanks for the recipes.  My club is covering Ciders next month and I am preparing a presentation to provide an overview. I am currently searching for presentations and other materials to aide in this effort. Do you have anything you would like to post on this forum to help educate the masses about cider? 

Thanks,
Greg

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