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Messages - tesgüino

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Oxygen scavenging caps
« on: November 05, 2016, 05:09:20 PM »
"James on Basic Brewing contacted the manufacturer to ask this very question to him. He said that sanitizing is absolutely no problem, because while the caps do absorb oxygen and are activated as soon as they get moist, it takes the caps several days to do their job, so a few minutes before getting crimped is OK."

All Grain Brewing / Re: Resume boil a week later
« on: October 16, 2016, 06:30:04 PM »
So, I've had this beer on tap for a while now. Thought it was a decent beer. Not the best thing I've made, but good. Took a bottle to a homebrew club meeting. Same reaction, even after being told about the one week delay in the boil. Still not convinced that it wasn't me in denial of my "ugly baby", I entered it into a local competition to get an unbiased view. Saw the results on-line today. Third place in American Pale Ale. Haven't seen the score sheet, but that's about what I expected. Not a great, over the top beer, but no where near a dumper either.

Oh, and most of it is gone. As far as I know, nobody has died yet.  ;)

Kegging and Bottling / Re: force carbing question
« on: October 10, 2016, 05:44:05 PM »
The carbing (sparkling water) was @ 25, serving PSI recommended by the manufacturer is 8-10.
I have had seltzer water (carbonated tap water) on tap for years. I leave it set at 25 PSI for carbing and serving with 15' of beer line. The system is a corny keg with a float inside to maintain a constant water level. The CO2 is never shut off.

Ingredients / Re: When do you add honey?
« on: October 09, 2016, 07:12:00 PM »
Funny you should ask. I was researching this this morning for what I'm brewing now. The results are all over the place.

Owing to its low water content, honey is very stable. Its microorganisms are dormant until they access an appropriate medium, such as your wort, where they have the potential to spoil your beer. Honey also contains various enyzmes that, if not denatured by heat, could go to work in your fermenting wort, resulting in a beer that’s drier than you might have intended.

Wood/Casks / Re: Beer Style Recommendations for Third Use of Whiskey Barrel?
« on: September 24, 2016, 10:03:29 PM »
Put the third beer in my whiskey barrel a few weeks ago. Went with a Wheatwine (55% wheat). At the bottom end of the style with a 1.082 OG, but went into the barrel at 1.013 after only two weeks in the primary. Any thoughts on if that was a good idea for a barrel beer?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: The unappreciated American Brown Ale
« on: September 18, 2016, 05:07:56 PM »
This style seems to be lost in the last 5-10 years . . . .
Can't be all that lost. Just finish taking the first running on an American Brown Ale. It's a must for the upcoming Fall season.

Homebrew Competitions / APA or IPA?
« on: September 17, 2016, 12:03:20 PM »
I have a hoppy ale with numbers; 1.054 OG, 1.011 FG, 5.6% ABV. Using my old version of BeerSmith, the IBU's come in at only 25, but with a 60 minute stepped hopstand/whirlpool and a lot of post-boil hops, I estimated around 45 IBU.

By the book that puts this beer at the top of APA, but the hop aroma and flavor could pass as an IPA. Seems like a lot of brewers are crafting beers like this. Where are you entering them (besides your mouth) and what is your success rate?

adding the hops and leaving them in the whirpool for 10 minutes (also called a 'hopstand', I believe)
Not an expert, but I think that whirlpooling can be done can be done with or without hops. Whereas, like it says, a hop stand needs hops and can be done with or without whirlpooling (using a pump or any other method to create the whirlpool).

Whirlpool hopping has the advantage of keeping the hops in suspension and extracting more of the flavor and aroma and can even be done with a spoon. Even if you're not whirlpooling, the stand part of hopstand, is the length of time you hold a temperature.

At least that's my take on it?

The 10 minutes noted would be the length of the stand (I.e., the "rest" at that temp).
Yeah, if the recipe said to whirlpool for 10 minutes without a temperature, it's incomplete. I would take that to mean tossing in the hops at flame-out and waiting 10 minutes before starting to chill. The problem with doing that alone is that you'll still be pulling significant bitterness and losing the aroma/flavor you'd get with a lower temperature whirlpool.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Resume boil a week later
« on: August 20, 2016, 08:18:50 PM »
Went against the sound wisdom here. The six day old wort just reached a boil. Before I get too many, "so why'd you ask if you were going to do it anyway", here was my logic. I couldn't be sure of the cause of the fuse blowing and rather than risk another batch, I wanted to see if the burner was still capable of handling an extended boil. Turned out to be a good test, because it took over an hour and a half just to get the 12+ gallons to a boil from 35 degrees with my minimalist 3500 watt burner.

Hoping for the best. The wort had no noticeable signs of infection or souring. Taste was good. For anyone interested, I'll report back in a few weeks. Thanks for commenting.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Resume boil a week later
« on: August 17, 2016, 09:42:35 PM »
So, why don't those bugs change the flavor of other sugary things (say like homemade ice tea) that have been in the fridge for a week?

Not arguing. Enough people have made the same point that I don't doubt it's correct. Just want to understand it.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Resume boil a week later
« on: August 17, 2016, 07:00:06 PM »
Pretty unanimous. Have to dump it. Curious though, what are the bugs (or whatever it might be) that cause the off flavor in wort stored in a refrigerator for one week?

All Grain Brewing / Resume boil a week later
« on: August 16, 2016, 04:55:02 PM »
On Sunday, I lost power in my induction hob after about a half hour of boil time. It was an all late hopped ale, so no hops in yet. After a delay, I chilled to about 80 degrees and transferred 12-1/2 gallons of wort to carboys and stuck them in my cold crashing fridge. There won't be an opportunity to finish the boil until this weekend. What are the down sides of this? I think I remember hearing that souring or infection can be a problem even chilled. My sanitation was good, but not great. The kettle was uncovered for an hour or more while I attempted repairs and I transferred about 5 gallons of the wort to an unsanitized five gallon pot so that I could lift the kettle off the hob.

And a side note, an internal fuse blew on the hob. Probably because of a power surge from a nasty storm that blew through.   

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dry Hop + Yeast Dump
« on: July 01, 2016, 05:12:55 PM »
If you dropped the yeast out of the bottom of the conical that means it had flocculated and fallen down there. It does this when it is done fermenting. There is still a bunch of yeast in suspension after only 4 days of fermentation, so any last bit of cleaning up will still take place. The stuff at the bottom has basically fallen asleep.
So, you're saying that transferring from a primary vessel to a secondary vessel before or just as fermentation has stopped is good practice because the yeast in suspension will do the job of cleaning up off flavors or finishing fermentation?

I don't think that just because yeast has flocculated means it's dormant.

Events / Re: NHC Seminar Schedule
« on: June 08, 2016, 09:25:16 PM »

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