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Messages - edward

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1
Equipment and Software / Re: Plate chiller cleaning
« on: July 03, 2017, 07:09:38 PM »
I've completed ten rinse cycle with very hot (160f+) PBW. The last two did not get nearly as dark. I'm thinking probably two or three more should do it.

I've only ever seen caustic and PAA at breweries. Where can you get it as a Homebrewer?

2
Equipment and Software / Re: Plate chiller cleaning
« on: July 01, 2017, 11:03:45 AM »
Yep. I reverse flow with water and PBW every time. Just not with really hot water. I've had a couple of really dirty batches recently that I think have made this worse.

I don't have a filter over my intake though.

My main concern right now is getting it clean enough to brew with.

3
Equipment and Software / Plate chiller cleaning
« on: July 01, 2017, 10:35:18 AM »
After every brew session I always flow hot water in both directions and then repeat with oxyclean/PBW followed by a quick starsan rinse. I felt it was coming clean.  Tons of gunk would come out, but lately I felt it was taking longer to chill. The chiller is a Duda Diesel B3-36A-40ST.

I baked the chiller at 500f in the oven for an two hours. Stank up the house and a small amount of dark stuff came out the the wort entrance/exit.

I loaded the kettle with five gallons of hot water and pbw. Started heating and circulating at the same time. the pbw solution turned black very quickly. I recirculated for about 20 minutes at near boiling temps. Dumped that solution and then repeated with a fresh hot pbw rinse. This again turned black. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Six freaking times. It takes longer every time for the hot pbw to darken but it always gets there, including a small pile of debris is in the center of the pot.  I'm reversing the flow every time.  I'm going longer with my flushes, I'm up to about an hour at a time now.

Other than caustic. Does anyone have other suggestions for cleaning this junk out?


4
All Grain Brewing / Re: Best Method to Crush Raw Wheat?
« on: March 23, 2017, 09:59:47 AM »
I've milled it with everything else as normal in my Barley Crusher.  I got my normal efficiency. 

Hold on tight though!  The drill will almost rip out of your hand - it requires a lot of torque to crush them up.

5
All Grain Brewing / Re: How long does it take you to brew a beer?
« on: February 22, 2017, 12:12:44 PM »
Another thing I do to shave off some time is get my water ready the night before.  I fill my cooler with all my mash in and sparge water.  It comes out of the tap at about 130F and drops to 120-125 over night.

6
All Grain Brewing / Re: Skimming hot break questions
« on: February 21, 2017, 09:03:02 AM »
I used to skim hot break.  I would just use a large stainless steel mash spoon.

I stopped after I forgot to do it one time and did not notice any difference.

If I plan to re-use yeast I will let the trub settle out, transfer into a fermenter, and then pitch yeast on a mostly trub free wort.  I like doing it that way better than rinsing the yeast.

7
All Grain Brewing / Re: How long does it take you to brew a beer?
« on: February 21, 2017, 08:32:41 AM »
Last Saturday it took us about 5 hours from heating water to finished cleaning.  That was for 18 gallons that is destined for a 15 gallon barrel. About 30 minutes of prep the day before.

I'm also an early morning brewer.  Typically start ~530.

 A "normal day" is about 4.5 hours for 12 gallons. 

8

Our competition location this year is at the newest location of Frothy Beard Brewing company (still members of the club).  A fantastic new spot with the largest brewery taproom in the city.  Our competition will be held in the production area of the brewery - separate from the taproom.

Post if you have any questions!

Thanks!
Ed

9
I had considered the idea of collectibles. I'd rather see what I can do for now. Do you have a link to any information on the kegs?

Even searching for Heintz kegs doesn't yield much.

10
I'm looking for some help with recently purchased old Coca Cola kegs (19??'s) that are missing a few parts.  I’m trying to get them back to usable condition.  I got two on a craiglist find that need some work.
 
I've contacted several corny keg suppliers and I've had no luck (Keg Connection, Williams Brewing,Chi company).  I've also scoured the internet looking for anything about this keg design - no luck.
 
The Pin-lock posts are larger in diameter than standard Pin-lock posts, but only where there pins are.  Maybe 1/16” bigger, the disconnects aren’t close to fitting.  The post thread size is much larger than normal pin lock – I haven’t had a chance to determine the thread size.  There is also a rubber seal that sits inside the bottom of the post - which is not normal for me.
 
No identifying names or stampings on the kegs.  In small print the posts says “Hansen” - but this is a common post supplier.  The only identifying number on it is P372P.
 
Most obviously the center lid is completely round with no pressure relief.
 
Some of the rubber seals are different sizes than standard pin lock but I know I can source equivalent ones on McMaster Carr.
 
Parts missing from the kegs:  liquid post, center lid with nut, gas dip tube (to be honest I cant be certain it ever had them - I'm just assuming)
 
Anyone seen any kegs like this before?  Know anyone that has parts?
 
Any help is appreciated.

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/vo2eu6i52wx0ofh/AADT7SyGABvUwRRWY8bw0Pdka

11
Equipment and Software / Re: Cheapo pH Meter Experience
« on: January 09, 2017, 06:21:55 AM »
I got a very similar one a few months back.  Worked really well until I submerged it about 2/3 deep in Starsan and some got inside.  That was it.


12
We've been running this competition for years but this is the first time announcing it on the AHA Forum.

The competition is scheduled for April 8th in Charleston, SC and is open to everyone and all categories from the 2015 guidelines.

As with all homebrew competitions we're always looking for additional volunteers and Charleston is a fantastic city to visit for a vacation or beercation (~15 breweries and counting).  Consistently ranked as one of the best cities in the USA (and World) to visit.  http://www.travelandleisure.com/slideshows/best-cities-in-north-america/20

We pride ourselves with spoiling our judges with fantastic food and THE BEST end of competition raffle in the Southeast (all proceeds to charity).  We can even help find you a place to stay if you're coming far afield.

https://www.lowcountrylibations.com/#/competitions/

13
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Nitro Corn kegs
« on: December 29, 2016, 02:09:43 PM »
My brewing buddy and I went Nitro at the same time.  He did as Int3lig3ntdzign did and the beer served out okay but doesnt have that classic 'Guiness' Nitro cascade of fine bubbles.  Its a light cascade at best.

My procedure:  I kegged the beer and hit it with 40 psi of the Nitro gas mix (25% CO2).  No straight CO2 at all.  I shaked the hell out of it and hit it with 40 psi again.  I repeat that for a few days until no more pressure will go in.  Bascially the CO2 gets saturated (equivalent of 10 psi CO2) and the Nitrogen gets absorbed a little...but not much.

Chilled it down and hooked it up to my line with a Nitro faucet and it pours beautifully!  Looks just like a Guiness pour - although it only takes about eight seconds to fill a glass.  The cascade of bubbles is something to behold!  SO SO CREAMY!  Its like drinking light, frothy, chocolate milk.  I serve at 35 to 40 psi on the Nitro gas mix - perfect pour every time.


I found this on a Probrewer discussion site:


To hopefully add to the discussion, John Mallet in his New Brewer article from Nov/Dec 1997 article points out that ranges for commercial beers are from 10-35ppm with 20-25ppm being typical nitrogenated stout levels. He also points out that the equilibrium for beer at 5C(41F) and 15psig is 2.7vol for CO2 and just .004vols N2 (15psig is a lot less than 35psig and yes it is adsorbed). Hey I didn’t say it was a lot in solution but it is in solution!

It is important to remember that a nitrogenated beer is not just nitrogen but also CO2. Nitrogen solubility is so poor that it almost completely goes to gas phase in a near instantaneous manner when the equilibrium pressure is removed. For nitrogenated beer the trick is to get the CO2 out of solution at the same time. The problem is that the CO2 has little drive to leave solution due to its high solubility and typically moderate levels from 1.6-2.0vols in nitrogenated beer. So the solution is to push the beer through a plate that has pinholes that will create massive turbulence thus knocking the CO2 out even though it didn’t want to. The higher ~31psig delivery pressures are necessary to not only keep the small amount of nitrogen in solution (with “beer gas”) but also overcome the high restriction of the pin holes. So with both the nitrogen and CO2 coming out of solution you have nitrogen seeding CO2 bubbles. Since nucleation size is the most important factor in initial bubble size you start with tiny bubbles. And since nitrogen has a very small gas diffusion coefficient (especially compared to CO2) it maintains small bubbles (even with CO2 mixed in).


http://discussions.probrewer.com/showthread.php?5039-Nitrogen-Fairy-Tales/page2

14
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Beer Gun for High CO2 beers
« on: December 29, 2016, 01:54:16 PM »
Is there foam in the line as you are filling the bottles or is it just foaming once it hits the bottles?  If there is foam in the line as you are filling then you are going to have a ton of foam in the bottles too.

For me the first few bottles are always a little more foamy until the beer line and the gun get cold too.  I usually just set the cap loosely on those bottles and then come back and top them off.

When I'm desperate to fill bottles with high carb I just keep pulling the trigger, foam flowing out of the top of the bottle, until the beer runs clear and then slam the cap on it.  A lot of beer gets wasted that way though.

15
Equipment and Software / Re: 10 Gal Propane Burners
« on: December 22, 2016, 08:12:42 AM »
Technically almost any burner will work...it will just take longer.

I use the original cast iron burner I got with a turkey fryer.  The regulator is the limiting factor on those burners - which is why you never seem them rated to a certain BTU, because its all about the regulator.  A 5 psi regulator will work to bring 10 gallons to a boil but a 10 psi will get you there a lot faster.  There are adjustable ones up to 30 psi.

I use a 10 psi regulator for a 25 gallon pot - commonly boiling 20 gallons in it. 




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