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Topics - edward

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Equipment and Software / Plate chiller cleaning
« on: July 01, 2017, 05:35:18 PM »
After every brew session I always flow hot water in both directions and then repeat with oxyclean/PBW followed by a quick starsan rinse. I felt it was coming clean.  Tons of gunk would come out, but lately I felt it was taking longer to chill. The chiller is a Duda Diesel B3-36A-40ST.

I baked the chiller at 500f in the oven for an two hours. Stank up the house and a small amount of dark stuff came out the the wort entrance/exit.

I loaded the kettle with five gallons of hot water and pbw. Started heating and circulating at the same time. the pbw solution turned black very quickly. I recirculated for about 20 minutes at near boiling temps. Dumped that solution and then repeated with a fresh hot pbw rinse. This again turned black. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Six freaking times. It takes longer every time for the hot pbw to darken but it always gets there, including a small pile of debris is in the center of the pot.  I'm reversing the flow every time.  I'm going longer with my flushes, I'm up to about an hour at a time now.

Other than caustic. Does anyone have other suggestions for cleaning this junk out?

I'm looking for some help with recently purchased old Coca Cola kegs (19??'s) that are missing a few parts.  I’m trying to get them back to usable condition.  I got two on a craiglist find that need some work.
I've contacted several corny keg suppliers and I've had no luck (Keg Connection, Williams Brewing,Chi company).  I've also scoured the internet looking for anything about this keg design - no luck.
The Pin-lock posts are larger in diameter than standard Pin-lock posts, but only where there pins are.  Maybe 1/16” bigger, the disconnects aren’t close to fitting.  The post thread size is much larger than normal pin lock – I haven’t had a chance to determine the thread size.  There is also a rubber seal that sits inside the bottom of the post - which is not normal for me.
No identifying names or stampings on the kegs.  In small print the posts says “Hansen” - but this is a common post supplier.  The only identifying number on it is P372P.
Most obviously the center lid is completely round with no pressure relief.
Some of the rubber seals are different sizes than standard pin lock but I know I can source equivalent ones on McMaster Carr.
Parts missing from the kegs:  liquid post, center lid with nut, gas dip tube (to be honest I cant be certain it ever had them - I'm just assuming)
Anyone seen any kegs like this before?  Know anyone that has parts?
Any help is appreciated.

We've been running this competition for years but this is the first time announcing it on the AHA Forum.

The competition is scheduled for April 8th in Charleston, SC and is open to everyone and all categories from the 2015 guidelines.

As with all homebrew competitions we're always looking for additional volunteers and Charleston is a fantastic city to visit for a vacation or beercation (~15 breweries and counting).  Consistently ranked as one of the best cities in the USA (and World) to visit.

We pride ourselves with spoiling our judges with fantastic food and THE BEST end of competition raffle in the Southeast (all proceeds to charity).  We can even help find you a place to stay if you're coming far afield.

Beer Recipes / Weizen/Dunkel Weizen idea
« on: September 16, 2012, 05:14:44 PM »
I'm trying to figure out if this idea will work.

I've been doing a lot of 10g batches lately and splitting the batches using different yeasts and dry hopping.

What I'd like to do is make 10g of hefeweizen and split it.  Then add 1lb of munich extract plus some carafa 2 for color in 1/2 gallon of water to one of the fermenters.

I'm wondering if the extract will give enough caramel/munich flavor that is needed for a dunkelweizen.

Kegging and Bottling / Problem with keg hopping
« on: September 15, 2012, 05:21:06 PM »
I've keg hopped my last several IPAs to good effect.  This latest IPA I keg hopped with 2oz of citra and 2 oz of willamette.  It was weird because when I went to pull a pint I could only get an ounce or two to come out before it stopped.  I had though that maybe one of the hop bags got pinned under the pick up tube and was blocking it.  But then I noticed that in the little beer that did come out there was a lot of hop pellet residue.

The hop bag for the willamette hops must have slipped open.  I vented the keg and removed the liquid post and dip tube.  The post was packed full of hops and the dip tube was nearly blocked.

I'm looking for suggestions with what to do next.  I was thinking of removing the lid and siphoning the beer into a new keg.  I'm still concerned that when I siphon it that I will get pellets transferred into the new keg.  I've tried attaching hop bags over the end of the siphon but with a fully carbed beer the co2 would come out of solution when it hits the hop bag and the siphon would stop.


Yeast and Fermentation / Oxidation during fermentation
« on: January 20, 2011, 05:25:00 PM »

My question is this.  How long can you keep a beer in a plastic fermenter before oxidation becomes an issue?  I've left an RIS in the primary(plastic) for a month before, but then again a little oxidation seems somewhat common on those styles after you age them.

3 weeks?  4 weeks?  5 weeks?  I always hear about oxidation in plastic buckets but I never hear about how long it actually takes to develop.

My next batch of pils I may do a side by side comparison using a 2 week primary in plastic for both and then a 3-4 week lager in a glass carboy and plastic bucket.

If its already been done please let me know the results.

Yeast and Fermentation / Forced Fermentation Test
« on: January 13, 2011, 12:48:52 PM »

I ran a FFT on a Belgian Dark Strong for 4 days at room temp (68F +/- 2 F)) and tested a gravity of 1.010 from an OG of 1.100.  I used about 300ml of wort to 75ml of Wyeast 1214 slurry.  I only aerated during the first hour of the test.  This is my first time doing an FFT.

My questions are this:  since this is way overpitching, can I really expect the same level of attenuation (90%) out of the batch in the fermenter (the beer is fermenting at room temp under similar levels of oxygenation)?    Is there an optimal yeast to wort ratio for the FFT?

Besides an overabundance of alcohol the FFT sample didn't taste too bad.  What kind of taste difference can I expect from the FFT vs. the final product?  I was hoping for a moderately high dark fruity ester profile but it was quite low, peppery phenolics were off the chart.  There were also very little malty flavors present.

The Pub / Beer Lubricated the Rise of Civilization
« on: November 08, 2010, 05:17:11 PM »

All Grain Brewing / Attenuation of RIS
« on: May 04, 2010, 04:30:33 PM »

I mashed 24 lbs of grain, sparge 12 gallons of water, and boiled down to 5.5 gallons.  My OG was 1.113 - I pitched two packets of dry yeast (Notty).   After 3 weeks my gravity was at 1.042, I pitched 2 lbs of sugar and 2 packets of champagne yeast.  After another 3 weeks the gravity was still at 1.042 (i.e. the champagne yeast ate only the sugar).  I was rousing the yeast every day.

The overall attenuation was ~65%. Its been in the secondary for 3 months and the gravity reading has not changed.  I think the ABV is ~12.5%.  I was hoping that 3 months in the secondary would drop the gravity by another 4 to 6 points.

At this point I am debating whether or not to pitch more yeast or to just bottle it. Time is not an issue for me.  I am just worried about the beer being too sweet.  Although, the last sample I took did not taste overly sweet. 

If I pitch more yeast would I need to re-aerate and transfer back to a primary?  I was thinking about adding maybe three more packets of dry yeast to see if I could drop the gravity into the 1.035 range.

Opinions are welcomed!

Yeast and Fermentation / A "modified" starter
« on: February 11, 2010, 12:54:55 PM »
I made a newbie mistake last week when I bought supplies for this weeks 10 gallon batch of pilsner and I dont have quite enough DME for the starter.  Mr. Malty recommends a 5.7 liter starter and I only have enough DME for 5 quarts (4.7 liters) at 1.040.  I dont have a stir plate so I use the intermittent shaking method.

My question is this:  Would adding corn sugar or brown sugar to the starter hurt the vitality of the yeast during the fermentation?  I can add plenty of yeast nutrient in the starter to help make up for not using DME. If I do add sugar to the starter it would be ~18% of the total fermentables in the container.

Is there a type of sugar that I should or should not be used?  Would my 4.7 liter starter be big enough?

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