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Messages - edward

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16
All Grain Brewing / Re: Best size boil kettle for 10 gallon batches
« on: October 02, 2012, 02:52:40 PM »

I have had success with boiling 18+ gallons in a 20 gallon boilermaker using Fermcap-S.

Fermcap rocks!  In the boil and the fermenter!  No boil overs or blowouts.

18
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Problem with keg hopping
« on: September 18, 2012, 03:40:45 PM »
I cleaned out the post and the dip tube really good and then let the keg settle for a few days.  The flow out of the tap isn't what it should be, but its pretty good.

I will definitely look into the sure screen.


19
All Grain Brewing / Re: your experiences in moving to 10g?
« on: September 18, 2012, 03:27:45 AM »
I mainly do 5 gallons but the last two batches I have done were 10 gallons.  I dont have a stand and I can confirm that it is heavy.  My back was sore after the last one.

For cooling I lift the entire pot and set it in a big tub of water.  With using an immersion chiller this reduces my cooling time by about half.

Keep in mind mash tun capacity.  I use a 10 gallon round cooler and doing any beer over 1.060 gets to be pretty tight. 

20
Beer Recipes / Re: Weizen/Dunkel Weizen idea
« on: September 17, 2012, 08:48:26 AM »
Thanks for the ideas!

I have some caramunich 3 laying around that I used in a dubbel that I need to use up.  I might have some munich laying around as well.  Dont know why I didnt think of that.

...the trick will be to prevent the OG from getting too high.

21
Beer Recipes / Weizen/Dunkel Weizen idea
« on: September 16, 2012, 10:14:44 AM »
I'm trying to figure out if this idea will work.

I've been doing a lot of 10g batches lately and splitting the batches using different yeasts and dry hopping.

What I'd like to do is make 10g of hefeweizen and split it.  Then add 1lb of munich extract plus some carafa 2 for color in 1/2 gallon of water to one of the fermenters.

I'm wondering if the extract will give enough caramel/munich flavor that is needed for a dunkelweizen.


22
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Problem with keg hopping
« on: September 15, 2012, 11:41:29 AM »
Pull out the dip tube again and clean it out, re-sanitize and try again.  Repeat until it's clear.

You could try transferring the beer but I'd try this first.  Last time this happened to me I think it took four or five iterations to get things flowing smoothly again.

Well...this sort of worked.  After 6 or 7 iterations I got the keg to flow good.  Put it back in the kegerator...which swirled up more mess and it plugged again.  I repeated the cleaning of the dip tube and post a few more times.  Including moving the keg around to get stuff swirled up. Got it going good again, put the keg back in the kegerator.  And it plugged again.

I'm taking a break to watch football and drink beer.  I'll try it again later.




Denny - wouldnt the sure screen cause CO2 to come out of solution as the liquid pass through it?

23
Kegging and Bottling / Problem with keg hopping
« on: September 15, 2012, 10:21:06 AM »
I've keg hopped my last several IPAs to good effect.  This latest IPA I keg hopped with 2oz of citra and 2 oz of willamette.  It was weird because when I went to pull a pint I could only get an ounce or two to come out before it stopped.  I had though that maybe one of the hop bags got pinned under the pick up tube and was blocking it.  But then I noticed that in the little beer that did come out there was a lot of hop pellet residue.

The hop bag for the willamette hops must have slipped open.  I vented the keg and removed the liquid post and dip tube.  The post was packed full of hops and the dip tube was nearly blocked.

I'm looking for suggestions with what to do next.  I was thinking of removing the lid and siphoning the beer into a new keg.  I'm still concerned that when I siphon it that I will get pellets transferred into the new keg.  I've tried attaching hop bags over the end of the siphon but with a fully carbed beer the co2 would come out of solution when it hits the hop bag and the siphon would stop.

Ideas?

24
This is one of the best beers I have ever made.  Scored in the mid 40's in competition twice.  It is a Westvletern 12 clone attempt.  Although I've never actually had the beer.


Grains:
17.5 lbs Pilsner
1lb Caramunich
1lb Dark Candy Sugar (to the boil)
1lb Cane Sugar (to the boil)
0.5lb Biscuit
0.25lb Special B
0.25lb Aromatic
0.25lb Chocolate

I mashed at 145 for 40 minutes
Then 155 for 40 minutes
and then a mash out at 163 for 10 minutes.

I sparged a lot on this one. I had to add boiling water to the mash to raise the temp. All said and done I sparged 11 gallons into the boil kettle. I have a 15 gallon aluminum kettle and I can boil off 2.5 gallons per hour if I need to. I think I did a two hour boil on this one but only hopped for the last hour.

Hops:
60 min 0.7 oz Magnum 12.5%AA
15 min 0.25 oz Hallertauer 4.4%AA
15 min 0.25 oz Tettnanger 4.8%AA
1 min 0.25 oz Hallertauer 4.4%AA
1 min 0.25 oz Tettnanger 4.8%AA

Yeast:
Wyeast 1214 - I made a 1.5 liter starter with 250ml of yeast slurry that came from a Belgian Triple.

I started fermentation in the low 60s for the first three days and then let it rise to the upper 60s.

OG = 1.100
FG = 1.010

A fast ferment test was performed and confirmed the FG. With the simple sugars and the mash profile this was a very fermentable wort. The ton of yeast I pitched help too.

Water profile:
97ppm Ca
100ppm Na
94ppm SO4
150ppm Cl
180ppm HCO3
alkinity as CaCO3 147
RA as CaCO3 76

25
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Re-yeasting already bottled beer
« on: March 18, 2012, 08:17:15 AM »
This same thing happened to me with a big RIS.  My final abv was ~12.5%.

The FG was 1.040 and that was with adding champagne yeast three weeks into fermentation.  IME the champagne yeast only ate the simple sugars and didnt touch anything else.

I tried multiple things to get the bottles to carb up.  I uncapped and recapped three times.

1) added a 1/2 tsp of cane sugar and 5 grains of US-05 to each bottle - didnt work
2) added 5 grains of champagne yeast to each bottle - didnt work
3) re-hydrated a pack of dry yeast in one cup of water and added 10 drops of the yeast that settle to the bottom - didnt work

I dont mean to get you down.  These were just some of the things that I tried.

After one year in the bottle the best I was able to manage was flat beer.  I started kegging about six months ago.  After two years (brewed Jan 2010) in the bottle I dumped them all into a keg under a CO2 blanket and force carbed.  When I opened all the bottles to dump them in the keg a couple of them did make a little noise as I opened them.  The vast majority made no noise at all.  I was able to keg almost three gallons of the beer.

Try several things but you might want to have a back up plan.  Either dumping everything back into the bottling bucket and re-bottling or find someone who can keg and dump them all into a keg and force carb it. Oxidation will be a concern no matter what you do.  With an aged beer there will be some oxidation anyway.


Ed




26
Events / Re: I am declaring right now!
« on: June 16, 2011, 05:42:01 AM »
Would love to go.  However, the odds of me going diminish the farther you get away from the East Coast. 

....there's always a chance.

27
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Frigid Weather Brewing
« on: January 31, 2011, 05:27:42 AM »

Was 70 F and perfect yesterday.  Great day for brewing.

Some people don't brew when its too cold, I don't brew when its too hot.  Which in the south is July and August.

28
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Forced Fermentation Test
« on: January 24, 2011, 05:36:57 AM »
After two weeks I measured a gravity of 1.013 and racked into a carboy for aging.  Sample tasted pretty good.  Even with 12%+ alcohol it did not have the "hotness" or "alcohol" type flavors.

The FFT was pretty close and the gravity may yet drop a point or two.

29
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Oxidation during fermentation
« on: January 20, 2011, 12:43:47 PM »
I don't think the production of CO2 drives out most of the CO2 during fermentation. It's the yeast that is consuming it. The rate at which any gas permeates during a membrane is determined by the gas concentration (to be precise partial pressure) on either side of the barrier and the barriers permeability for that gas. You could have 100 psi CO2 on the other side but the O2 diffusion into the vessel is not affected. At least that is my understanding of the mechanisms involved here.

So you should move the beer once fermentation is complete. But don't rush it too much. Let the yeast truly finish the beer and the little O2 that the beer will pick up likely helps its aging process since stong dark beers seem to benefit from a little oxidation, IMO.

Kai

The solubility of oxygen would be affected by the partial pressure of the gases/liquids inside the fermenter.  But you're correct that diffusion of air through the plastic would be occurring from the beginning.

If oxidation from air is the big concern couldn't you just immerse the whole fermenter in a water bath?  Then the diffusion would be much lower (or nil) since the solubility of oxygen in fresh water is 9 ppm at 20 C.

30
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Oxidation during fermentation
« on: January 20, 2011, 11:31:06 AM »
IMO oxidation doesn't really start penetrating into the plastic primary until fermentation starts winding down.  So perhaps 4 to 10 days depending on the beer. 

I'm really hoping to find out timing wise that at what point keeping the beer in the primary becomes noticably oxidized.

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