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Messages - ynotbrusum

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1
All Grain Brewing / Re: Belgian Tripel Advice
« on: June 30, 2016, 02:51:46 PM »
Depending on the yeast style used, consider an open fermentation - not totally open, but with a piece of loose foil covering the grommet/airlock hole. Some Belgian strains seem to finish up better and not stall out when the pressure of an airlock isn't used.  Just a thought in terms of "tips"....otherwise I agree with all that has been said above - don't rack too early!

2
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What style should I enter this in?
« on: June 30, 2016, 02:44:55 PM »
The fruitiness of the lime from hops likely will preclude it from a straight up International Pale Lager or other similar German beer category, since most of those involve floral, herbal or spicy type hops, rather than fruity hops.  I suggest considering to enter it in the Experimental Beer category and explain the reason why - it is a traditional International Pale Lager or similar beer, only it uses Wakatu hops for a hint of lime.  There is nothing wrong with that and it can't be out of style in that category.  If it's very flavorful and otherwise well made, then you have a good chance in that category.

3
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lager Yeast Starter Failure
« on: June 29, 2016, 11:36:52 AM »
I rarely make starters anymore - I just make smaller batches and step through to get up to 10 gallon batches.  That said, try the "shaken not stirred" method next time - it really gets the most out of starters by pitching at high krausen.

Use the grains as soon as you can - the crushed grains will oxidize (stale) over time.  They should be good for a couple weeks and then degradation will depend on how it is stored/packaged (vacuum sealed in a freezer would be best.

Good luck and get some dry yeast as a backup - 34/70 and S-189 are two to consider.

4
I would avoid making a habit of long term primary storage, but you should be fine.  I have found that summer ale brewing is the most likely to get contaminated from a long term primary, just because the amount of micro flora in the air is so much greater, so the batch is exposed to a greater chance of some unwanted critters getting in there up front before sealing up the primary.  Then after the sacc yeast are done and go dormant, wild yeasts and molds can take a hold on a batch with the longer time at room temperature that occurs with a lengthy primary fermentation/storage in the primary.

5
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: How quick to cold-crash?
« on: June 29, 2016, 11:16:23 AM »
The way to prevent/eliminate impatience is to brew so many batches in quick succession that you actually get sick and tired of having another fermenter to clean, another hose to clean, another keg to clean.  It may take a lot, but once you get there, you'll be able to wait out a batch without blinking an eye.


Agreed.  Until you get to the point where you start waiting on kegs to blow, so you can open up a fermenter for another brew session....then the dilemma becomes how many kegs can you justify having?  I'm at 17 and SWAMBO says that's enough!

6
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 2016 Spring Swap - Official Thread
« on: June 28, 2016, 07:19:02 PM »
Please tell me that your hospitalization had nothing to do with your consumption of my Homebrew!!!!  Get well soon, Coolman26!

7
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Old Brewer back in the Brewing game
« on: June 28, 2016, 07:15:15 PM »
Craftmeister has been my go to cleaner - it works hot or cold and will totally remove any deposits with a soak.  No scrubbing needed.  PBW is a close second.  For sanitizing, I found Iodophor to be preferred to Star San as a result of wild yeast concerns.  Iodophor kills the wild yeast floating in the summer breeze; Star San does not, or so I am told (my experience bears that out, as well).

8
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Adding fruit to beers
« on: June 24, 2016, 03:04:22 AM »
It really varies by the fruit.  I use almost 12 pounds of fresh black berries (if I can get them) in 5 gallons of saison, then add Brett Vrie to the mix to get a nice funky flavor that's dry, but fruity.

9
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lost and Found Beer Stories?
« on: June 23, 2016, 04:04:05 AM »
I brewed a Pliny from Vinnie's old recipe with a neighbor and put a couple small bottles in my kegerator.  Totally forgot about them for five years...surprisingly good when I opened them after cleaning out the kegerator one summer.  Muted hops, but very drinkable.

10
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: RO water
« on: June 23, 2016, 03:55:52 AM »
I can't tell if the filters are uniform and easy to obtain - if it has special sized filters, you may have to order them from only the manufacturer.  Other than that observation, it looks to be a reasonable system at a good price.  Read the reviews on it to help decide.  It may take an extended time period to collect enough RO water for brewing.  I collect about 9 gallons a day, so over the course of a couple days I have enough to brew 10 gallon batches. YMMV, of course.

11
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: RO water
« on: June 22, 2016, 10:55:37 AM »
I try to be green in most things, but brewing is my biggest indulgence, because I use RO from my I house system for brewing.  Even so, my water is well water from an aquifer beneath my rural lot and the spent waste water of all types generated in my house returns to the aquifer by running off directly through the ground or via a septic leach field, so I don't see it as truly wasted in the course of generating the RO water for my brewing.

If I were on City water that was treated, I would feel differently, I suspect.

12
All Grain Brewing / Re: WLP084 question
« on: June 20, 2016, 05:15:39 PM »
I didn't recognize the 084 designation, but assume it was WLP 840 American Lager yeast.  At that gravity, I bet you will have no problems with the yeast doing a pretty quick job of it.  Realize that lager yeast doesn't necessarily give you the airlock rate that ale yeast at warm temps will show - that doesn't mean it's not working well!  Best of luck with your lager, I'm sure it will be fine.

13
All Grain Brewing / Re: Tropical Stout
« on: June 18, 2016, 08:00:31 AM »
I see it as more of a foreign export stout style with perhaps a lager yeast to keep the fermentation profile fairly clean.


Good call - it's pretty much a foreign export.

Actually per BJCP:

Characteristic Ingredients: Similar to a sweet stout, but with more gravity. Pale and dark roasted malts and grains. Hops mostly for bitterness. May use adjuncts and sugar to boost gravity. Typically made with warm-fermented lager yeast.

Style Comparison: Tastes like a scaled-up sweet stout with higher fruitiness. Similar to some Imperial Stouts without the high bitterness, strong/burnt roastiness, and late hops, and with lower alcohol. Much more sweet and less hoppy than American Stouts. Much sweeter and less bitter than the similar-gravity Export Stouts.

I just haven't seen much written on this style....

14
All Grain Brewing / Re: Tropical Stout
« on: June 18, 2016, 05:06:09 AM »
Good thoughts all.  I still see this as essentially an Imperial Sweet Stout.  Lactose is not required, but it should fit in well.  A touch of Munich would work, but the Simosons double roast is quite sweet as a new crystal malt in the 110-120L range. 

15
Ingredients / Re: Brewtan B
« on: June 17, 2016, 02:52:13 PM »
I spoke briefly with a chemist and of course he recommended nitrogen flushing throughout the process to be certain O2 is minimized, but I think I am just going to try a batch using: for cold side a Star San purge of kegs on filling, but on the hot side, underletting the mash with strike water after boiling (same with sparge), light stirring of the mash, with a CO2 cap added, no-splash transfer to boil kettle and lighter boil rate.  If these show improvement, I may seek the SMBS and/or Brewtan B additive in the pre-mash to further tweak the hot side process.  If the oxidation occurs on the hot side as fast as it is claimed to occur, then I don't see how the chemical additives will prevent the issue from arising, unless added to the process at the very start - is that what is being done?

How will the RIMS folks keep O2 from entering the mash?  Won't the amount of typical surface activity during recirc cause some O2 uptake?  With the Z - shouldn't it be purged of O2 in each of its containers? (I admit I haven't studied the Z and its process at all).

I look forward to tapping Joe Formanek for some of this stuff, if he can get me a "sample" to try.

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