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Messages - ynotbrusum

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 172
1
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Racking techniques
« on: November 17, 2017, 01:13:35 PM »
Gotcha, but I rack to purged keg via out post and QDC connection... to keep the keg free of O2.

2
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Racking techniques
« on: November 17, 2017, 10:51:47 AM »
I used an auto-siphon for years, but I now know that any contact between air and beer will lead to the beer staling quicker. If you consume your beer in weeks and don't sent it to competitions, then there is no reason to use anything but the auto-siphon. For all others, employing CO2 to push beer from one vessel to another is always going to be better for reducing oxidation and staling.

A rubber cap or plug with 2 ports is needed. Gas goes in one port and a racking cane in the other. Don't use more than 1 or 2 psi CO2 pressure.
 

Is there a simple way to purge the ambient air from the cane and tubing in this respect?  I guess one could hook up the CO2 and run it through the cane and tubing for a while before putting it into the cap and hope for the best, but I have been wondering about this and couldn't think of a foolproof, yet simple way to resolve it.

3
Equipment and Software / Re: malt mill
« on: November 16, 2017, 03:56:46 PM »
No O ring and my Jack Schmidling JSP is cranking along perfectly well after several years.  I have a low rpm high torque motor attached with a Buna Spider and it munches along without any problems.  My BC has been relegated to crushing my late addition dark malts, which it seems to handle with no problems, so I keep it in the brewhouse.

4
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Diacetyl Rest Question
« on: November 16, 2017, 03:39:13 PM »
I used to do D-rests, but like Denny said, if you pitch enough yeast, a D-rest is not necessary.  I just pitch a lot of yeast and rack when I get around to it after a couple weeks or more in the primary, sometimes as many as 4 weeks after pitching.  And this is for lager yeast and cold fermentation, mind you, as well as cold fermented ales and hybrids.

Best of luck with your pilsner!

5
All Grain Brewing / Re: Water treatment
« on: November 16, 2017, 03:32:43 PM »
For light lagers, I use/add all salts in the mash - but added to the strike water before adding the water to the grain (by underletting).  Martin's Brunwater program has a simple toggle for adding all to the strike water/mash for calculation purposes.  The pH has been so consistent that I rarely check it anymore....Easy Peasy and backed by science!

6
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Vessi vs New Unitank and Penguin Glycol Cooler
« on: November 13, 2017, 04:36:56 PM »
Or a conical with a chest freezer - just make sure the height is sufficient for the blow-off or airlock and the lifting is not a problem with the vessel.  I like the efficiency of chest freezers (and I lift 10 gallon batches with a locking pulley system), but an upright would work well for tall fermenting vessels, as Narcout said, because you can rack in situ from the bottom valves without removing the vessel from the freezer until it is empty.  And that Unitank system looks pretty cool to me.

7
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Mixed fermentation dry stout
« on: November 13, 2017, 04:19:56 PM »
I tasted the small Brett portion and figured that it was pretty mildly leathery and just a hint of sour, so I dumped it all (racked it actually).  In the three weeks it was fermenting on the warm side, there wasn't enough time to get that extended Roselaere sour and pedio combo to appear.  And I flash heated it to kill them all off before blending back to the main batch. 

I am going to try it again with a further split batch of the souring parts and a lead of "lacto only" in one of them (like a pint) and let the Roselaere go on another pint for the Brett to be present in the blend.

That batch will require some blending to taste, I imagine.

8
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: First Brew is in the bucket!
« on: November 11, 2017, 04:38:41 AM »
Congrats and welcome to the world’s best hobby IMHO!  My only suggestion is to get another bucket and Brew On!

9
General Homebrew Discussion / Mixed fermentation dry stout
« on: November 10, 2017, 08:33:29 PM »
Ok, so I have to pass this along.  It may not fit a BJCP category precisely, but I brewed a simple beer that tastes good and hit my expectations right on.  I brewed a dry stout and pulled about a pint and a half of the wort and inoculated it with White Labs Roselaere blend.  The main batch was just fermented with Nottingham.  After about 3 weeks, I heated the Roselaere to 150F to kill the bugs and racked it to a keg. Then I racked the main batch into the keg, cold crashed and carbed it for a Club sampling night of beer and food pairings- I paired it with Holiday sugar cookies.

Just sayin - it was freakin awesome.  The dry stout with the slight Brett dry horseyness really made a great contrast with the cookies.  Quite the treat, indeed.  You may want to give this a try for your holiday guests.  It probably approximates the old barrel fermented stouts of yesteryear.  If not, it makes a really tasty brew combo anyway.

Cheers!

10
Equipment and Software / Re: Acid cleaning draft lines
« on: November 10, 2017, 02:24:07 PM »
You know I just rejoined AHA after letting my membership lapse about 25 years ago (have I been lazy or just really busy brewing? )  Two things that didn't exist back then are online forums and any decent knowledge about cleaning and sanitation.   All great advancements come at the price of some aggravation, don't they? ;)

Sorry that the forum became a bit contentious over your initial post - we usually agree on things or quickly agree to disagree peacefully.  For example, the homebrewer now has antimicrobial beer lines available to him (though some say it is a waste of money and prefer to simply swap out lines more frequently at around 1/3 of the cost or to stay on top of the cleaning process keg to keg - either way works, if you are happy with the results). 

Innovations are sometimes embraced and sometimes dismissed; unfortunately, we sometimes really put our faith into a product and are not willing to be dissuaded; other times, we don't have the means of measuring the product's efficacy and fall prey to anecdotal evidence presented.  in the end, you should look at things for what will work best/easiest in your situation. 

Anyway, Cheers to a long time brewer!

11
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Best of both worlds
« on: November 10, 2017, 01:56:00 PM »
I don't have a Grainfather, but I have a single electric vessel (BIAB, basically) setup with a 5500 watt ripple element, so I will do what you just described to enable me to do 2 separate batches back to back: step mashing the first batch in my single vessel and then diverting the mashed wort to a kettle for the boil; I then quickly clean out the single vessel and repeat the process for the second batch, but for the second time around, I just leave the mashed wort in the single vessel for the boil (after removing the grains, of course).  In this way, I can easily complete two batches in just about an additional 90 minutes more than a single batch.  I have to clean one extra vessel and don't go crazy about deep cleaning the single vessel for the second batch (just a good rinsing out to get it ready for the second mash).

12
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Secondary Fermentation
« on: November 08, 2017, 05:01:00 AM »
Many debates on rehydrating or just sprinkling.  On small beers, I have seen no difference.  On big beers or lagers, I would rehydrate or pitch a second sachet of yeast. YMMV....

13
Ingredients / Re: What makes a good bittering hop?
« on: November 07, 2017, 03:49:51 PM »
I use Magnum mostly in my German beers for bittering.  I think it is basically a big Hallertauer hop, or so I was led to believe.  On American Lagers I use Cluster for bittering.

14
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Secondary Fermentation
« on: November 07, 2017, 03:22:31 PM »
Agreed, stay simple.  Pitch a healthy amount of yeast, bottle condition after 6-8 weeks and you should be fine.  After bottling (with sugar added to carbonate) and waiting 2 weeks at room temperature in the bottle, store the bottles in a refrigerator another month or more.  This big beer will hit its stride in the fourth to sixth month (but will keep even longer than that).

15
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Soy sauce stout
« on: November 07, 2017, 10:18:50 AM »
Soy Sauce flavor could be Autolysis.  Just because your house stays at those temps doesn't mean it's fermenting at those temps.  Fermentation creates heat.  Your dry yeast could have been a little on the old side too.


^^  This
  But at 13 days from pitch to rack?  Seems a bit quick to be autolysis... any number of issues may be combining here...

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