Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - ynotbrusum

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 116
1
Nicely done - makes me a bit misty-eyed thinking back to my bottling partner...he's 23 now and we see him once a month, if we are lucky.  He's a certified beer lover and texts me with new found brews in his work travels.

Don't blink.

2
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Priming a Hefeweizen in a keg
« on: July 29, 2015, 04:24:59 AM »
Thanks, Steve. I will bookmark those sites for future use!

3
All Grain Brewing / Re: Water Profile Importance
« on: July 28, 2015, 09:09:24 PM »
For stouts?  That is not terribly significant to me.  There are huge differences with other styles.

4
All Grain Brewing / Re: Question about batch sparge timing
« on: July 28, 2015, 12:36:12 PM »
I batch sparge for all the reasons stated above.  As to setting the grain bed, I use a little rice hulls and a fairly fine crush, then I run off slowly while vorlaufing.  Probably just under 50% flow rate.  Then when it looks reasonably clear I start collecting pretty close to wide open.  Then I put a double strainer on top of my boil kettle and pour the wort through it to catch any husks that might have gotten through.  I check my late runnings and they are always above 1.15 or so, so I assume the best as to astringency and pH....YMMV, of course.

5
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash ph too low?
« on: July 28, 2015, 12:24:08 PM »
Your pH was not 3.2.  It's simply not possible just from several tsp of minerals; you'd have to add a LOT of actual lactic acid to get to 3.2.  5.2 perhaps, but 3.2 no way, no how. 

By the way, you should never ever ever use minerals to adjust pH.  Minerals are for taste.  Use acid (lactic, phosphoric, or acid malt) to adjust pH.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

As to never using minerals to adjust pH, I would caution that making the right water starts with salts and ends with acids, because you want to hit the right composition of the water for the style via salts (typically), but then you need to dial in the pH with some acid, if necessary (often very little is needed and perhaps, though rare for me, instead a slight bit of alkalinity is needed to hit the mark).

6
All Grain Brewing / Re: Water Profile Importance
« on: July 28, 2015, 12:16:13 PM »
To the OP - these guys nailed it and for clarity, if you don't have a pH meter - not a big problem.  Martin's spreadsheet is highly accurate in predicting it and you can buy pH strips for the applicable range for pretty cheap.

Cheers!

7
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Priming a Hefeweizen in a keg
« on: July 28, 2015, 05:49:29 AM »
I will be bringing growlers, so no problems there.  I doubt that I will achieve the 54psi and I have the spunding valve to relieve pressure, so where would I achieve 3.5 volumes at 72F?

Thanks for the input!

8
Kegging and Bottling / Priming a Hefeweizen in a keg
« on: July 28, 2015, 05:10:13 AM »
So I thought I would try priming my Hefeweizen in the keg.  I racked onto a 7 ounce solution of sugar and attached a spunding valve to monitor CO2.  I put 20 psi of head pressure on the keg and watched....it dropped to about 10 psi and has gained back to 20 psi over the last few days.  The keg is at 72F.

My question is - what psi should I let this go to before bleeding off CO2 in order to achieve the equivalent of 4 volumes of carbonation at serving temperature?  I can't find a chart that goes high enough in the temperature range, as most charts deal with force carbing at particular temperatures (closer to serving temp range).

I intend to serve it at a club meeting in early August.  Thanks in advance for any help you can give me and I realize that I can "top off" the keg with forced CO2 at serving temp, but I wanted to be able to say that the keg was naturally primed, if possible.

9
Or maybe it was a Gose?

10
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast question for a sour
« on: July 28, 2015, 03:35:39 AM »
U.S.-05 worked in a 2.9pH wort that I kettle soured recently. A really fierce Berliner Weisse.

11
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: maiden voyage white labs pure pitch
« on: July 25, 2015, 11:01:09 AM »
I look forward to trying a pure pitch, also.  It makes sense and was agreed by my daughter (microbio grad student) as being a potentially healthiest approach for packaged yeast if obtained fresh.

12
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentis W-34/70
« on: July 25, 2015, 10:50:58 AM »
I noticed the same thing, but with lager strains you don't have as many choices for the dry yeast.  I used it for the longest time, as it re-pitches well, but I have been on a WLP 802 strain for months, as it seems to be a great pilsner workhorse for me. If re-pitching enough, the cost becomes palatable, but I agree that 34/70 is charged at a higher than dry ale yeast rate.

13
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Clear Beer!
« on: July 25, 2015, 10:45:22 AM »
Those picture perfect ones usually taste just as good as they look, too!

14
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Note to self
« on: July 25, 2015, 07:52:58 AM »
I have hot wet feet brewing today.  But it's from wearing running shoes and spraying down buckets and kegs.  The evaporative effect is actually making this two X 10 gallon brew day almost comfortable in the heat and humidity here in northern IL.....  This batch is ABGNOM ("AB Got nothing on me" - an American lawnmower Pilsner).

15
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: maiden voyage white labs pure pitch
« on: July 23, 2015, 05:00:31 AM »
The White Labs website says 2.5 Billion cells per ml.  http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/innovation

 Anyone know the volume of the package?


Per Mark, 35ml is the approximate volume.

So, I am starting to think that top cropping is worth considering for yeast harvest as opposed to slurry from a fermenter?  Especially if one does not use conical fermenters with dump valves....

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 116