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Messages - ynotbrusum

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1
Maybe some residual manufacturing oils or other residue that did not get totally removed in the initial cleaning?  With the acidic mash, it may have lifted some off the outside of the coils?

2
Why so long in the primary?  No empty kegs...now I will bottle beers from keg and get on with a quicker rotation to the kegs.

Or buy more kegs.

Amanda and I have decided this thread is full of liars.    ;D
at the very least you guys are entering competitions a lot less frequently than those making the infected stuff I keep running into at the judging table.

Sure, I've tossed batches.  Certainly more because of oxidation or just being tired of it, but infections happen.  Occasionally the effect is lovely, and sometimes others don't even notice it.  Friends couldn't detect the mouse in a batch of cider, but it was there, and I didn't keep that **** another day.


Infections don't just happen, though.  There's a weak link somewhere that allows them to happen.  I've had a couple over the years, but nothing persistent or even really traceable to specific equipment.  Probably due to way underpitching or using old yeast such that the infection took hold before the yeast did.

I used to be a little more worried about it until I realized that the strange tart flavor in certain beers came from Nottingham yeast.

As to more kegs - at 17, I am pushing my storage space limits already!

As to causes of infection, I think the airborne contaminants can be minimized, and good cleaning and sanitation can root out most issues on the containers and transfer tubing, but what about those that are in the yeast pack?  I noticed that on the yeast packaging or website, some of the wild yeast are present and given enough time may be able to take hold to a noticeable degree....

3
My chief problem on recent dumpers (2 in the last year) were due to mold and wild yeast taking hold post fermentation, when I left the beer in the primary for over a month beyond fermentation ending.  Those buggers arose, because they were present (perhaps from airborne contamination, but also a possible result of the yeast used on a re-pitch getting contaminated...)  In any event they didn't show up for several weeks and were pretty mildly impactful (though enough effect on flavor to make me say "dump it!").

Why so long in the primary?  No empty kegs...now I will bottle beers from keg and get on with a quicker rotation to the kegs.

4
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Iodine vs Starsan
« on: May 15, 2016, 02:33:38 PM »
I use a 3 foot length of silicone tubing for transferring hot sparge water, then soak it in iodophor before it is used to transfer the boiled and chilled wort to the fermenter.  Then an alkaline cleaner, rinse, iodophor soak and hang to dry.  No problems yet, but I would not hesitate to boil it if a problem arose.

5
Really enjoying your podcasts; keep up the great work!

Agreed - it's stride is right on for me.

6
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: plastic fermenters
« on: May 15, 2016, 02:23:00 PM »
I use plastic, mostly, but glass for long term sours in a solera process that includes blending with a wood aged barrel.  I just recently upgraded to a couple stainless bucket type fermenters and I expect those to be my preferred route, because I can boil water in them to sanitize, if I so choose.  But I will likely do that only after souring in them, if I ever do that, which at present would not be on purpose....

7
Great suggestion, Jeff! That I can and will do.

8
Years ago I tried a few brews where I did a "quiet" hot side to see if there was anything to the HSA concern.  Then Charlie Bamforth basically said pretty much that it only affects shelf life, so most Homebrewers were in the clear.  I did not notice a taste difference back then, but this debate has me re-thinking the best exercise.  I don't have a way of grinding grain in an oxygen free environment, but I am going to try underletting my mash with pre boiled water and gently stirring, then using a CO2 blanket and Saran Wrap mash cap, gentle underletting to the boil kettle and O2 addition only after fully chilled.  That seems to be a closer approximation of the suggested process than my typical approach and I will see for myself if it marks any discernible improvement in my lagers.  I think these guys may be on to something - whether it is worth the effort to me is something for me to gauge, of course. 

It has been an enjoyable thread in any event.  I take nothing personally as an affront to me if someone disagrees here - I love the hobby and incremental improvements in process and product are always worth trying.  I have ruled out certain products and processes over the years that didn't work well for me - but if they work well for others, then that is great for them.  The low dissolved oxygen process sounds interesting and worth pursuing, but how it is done is open to many approaches, solutions and (perhaps) products.  I can't wait to hear more about the Brewtan B, but I wonder if it also requires the Brewtan C and F to be optimally effective?

9
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Iodine vs Starsan
« on: May 14, 2016, 06:33:53 PM »
Like Mark says - Star San fails on wild yeast and molds- so I use Iodophor generally.

10
I can't say for sure, as I haven't tested it triangularly, but keeping the temperatures lower for the first few days of fermentation seemed to drive the clove to exceed the banana in a Hefe that I did last year (I want to say that Stan Hieronymous suggested that).  It is so yeast strain dependent that it might have just been the case for the yeast I used -- IIRC it was WLP 380, so maybe it was totally yeast driven.

11
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Home Made Home Brewing Kit
« on: May 13, 2016, 04:21:33 AM »
If you go clear, it's important to keep the fermenter out of direct light.

I cover mine with old t-shirts.

+1, Joe.  I try to keep the box that the container was shipped in just for this purpose, but an old sweatshirt or dark t-shirt works perfectly well to prevent skunking from light.  It is amazing how quickly this can happen to beer and how often it is overlooked.

12
All Grain Brewing / Re: Timing of Dry Hopping
« on: May 10, 2016, 09:02:22 PM »
Firestone Walker dry hops in the primary, I believe - well before final gravity.

13
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: RO Water
« on: May 10, 2016, 11:35:48 AM »
The RO water around my home became cost prohibitive, so I installed an RO system at my house to collect it.  It was about $200, but I upgraded to a larger tank and inline TDS meter, so the total was something like $300.  Now I get RO with 13 tds readings consistently from my rock hard well water.  It does use a lot of water, but my well water is pretty cheap cost-wise.

14
As one of those "about to fall off my perch"per the author, he fails to account for the new tricks of an old bird.  Those of us with more experienced life stage are also abandoning the BMC crowd, so perhaps it is a combination of the two - indeed the younger newer beer guzzlers may be sustaining the Big Lager trade as drinking what they can afford.....interesting read in any event!

15
I was planning on asking Joe about his thoughts on the whole low O2 debate at the next club meeting.  He made a British Golden ale that he shared at the last meeting he attended and it was quite good (as are most of his beers).  Not sure what he "doctors" those beers with, but as a food science doctor, he sure makes good beers!

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