Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - ynotbrusum

Pages: 1 ... 71 72 [73] 74 75 ... 146
1081
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Ugly Baby Cure
« on: July 29, 2014, 09:17:57 AM »
I am thinking a brown malt and some crystals, rather than Special B, Jim, but hey, if it's infected, who knows what went where, right?  I make a lot of Milds and mash higher than typical for those and that gives bigger body, together with a slightly sweeter, kind of nutty (some have said) flavors using a couple different strains, including that limited Yorkshire strain.  Summer poses the biggest concerns for me with the lighter beers, because there just isn't enough there for the yeasts to consume and beat back the potentially prolific nasties, if they get in there from the ambient air.  It's much harder in the summer to prevent infections IMHO.  Give me late fall through spring brewing for more easily keeping the nasties at bay!

1082
Ingredients / Re: Blackberries in a Saison with Brett
« on: July 29, 2014, 03:35:55 AM »
I used about a pound and will be adding a bunch more now!  They grow wild behind a relative's house nearby.  And yes, it is a 5gallon batch on this one.

1083
Ingredients / Blackberries in a Saison with Brett
« on: July 28, 2014, 06:52:10 PM »
On July 4 I brewed a Saison with 565.  At high Krausen, I pitched Brett Trois.  Today I pitched a small pile of microwaved, then chilled and smashed (in a ziplock bag) blackberries that tasted nicely tart in a smoothie this morning.

What can I expect from this goofy experiment?

1084
That's the deluxe model, Jim, the "Super Cool Brewing Bag"!

1085
I bought one after seeing it at the NHC, but anything similar would work, too:

http://www.cool-brewing.com


1086
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Roeselare
« on: July 28, 2014, 04:41:17 AM »
I am in pretty much the same position with my second year batch made in May 2014 and ready to be blended with some of my first year batch later this year (10 gallons in June 2013 split between glass carboy and 5 gallon bourbon barrel).  I blended portions of the first batch at about a 1:5 ratio for bottling for comps and kegging in a 3 gallon cornie.  Then I filled the barrel with the rest of the carboy - I didn't add new dregs to the barrel, but you can, if you think it isn't enough.  As the barrel ages, it likely will not need dregs, because the bugs will be in the wood.  Some guys do a lactic sour mash to prep the wort from a souring perspective, because the lacto loses some punch to the Brett and pedio over time, but I haven't found the need (I used a new couple vials of Roeselaere for the 5 gallon batch this past May).  I didn't pitch any extra Sacc, either, because the fresh vials had enough Sacc for the primary IMO.  One other thought is fruit - I have some tart cherry wine base that I intend to add into the mix on the next blend, just for grins.  Have fun and remember, it's a hobby.

1087
Agreed Jonathan.  The Swamp cooler I referenced should properly have been. Water bath, but looking it up, you get both treatments referencing the swamp cooler.  I would also mention the cool brewing bag  - it allows a frozen water bottle arrangement without water as a temperature buffering agent.

1088
All Grain Brewing / Re: Bland IPA w/ lots of late hops?!?
« on: July 27, 2014, 07:03:05 PM »
What the....this is about decanting a starter?

Just think it through .... What good does spent wort bring to a beer?  Whether oxidized or not?  Have any award winning beers been made with dumping the whole starter into the wort?  I doubt it.  Science or not, the question is what is best for the beer?

1089
Use one pint frozen water bottles.  You can put more of them in the water for the longer period and fewer in for the overnight. It's not a perfect science, but the yeast will still appreciate the cooler temps.  Or explore the wonderful world of Saisons at those temps - you may need a brew belt for nights, but the daytime temps will work great with Saison yeast.

1090
You can always use them in a sour beer...some guys age hops for this purpose.

1091
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Where to start?
« on: July 27, 2014, 05:30:41 AM »
Welcome and I agree with the above suggestions.  I would further say that you might want to brew with someone to see what they actually use, before you buy things that are seldom used and for the most part, unnecessary.  You won't know that until you brew with someone.  That person can likely tell you how to minimize from what they use to allow you to get started with the minimum expenditure.  After that, you will know what other items are priorities as additional equipment and avoid the stuff that are in some kits that aren't really needed.

Then you will want to follow the mantra spoken here: sanitization, pitch rate, temperature control....

Good luck and happy brewing!

1092
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Roeselare
« on: July 25, 2014, 12:40:08 PM »
To extend this thread on a slight tangent, I heard that Brett will eat autolyzed yeast, if necessary, so what effect will storage of the harvested Roeselaere blend have on shifting the balance of the blend away from the original pitch/harvest yeast:bugs ratio?

Or is that geeking it to a microbiology level that a homebrewer should just ignore.  With so much time invested in these sours, I am thinking I should at least ask!

Sorry for the hijack/diversion, Jim, but with the name of the topic, I thought it made more senses just go with this one further....

1093
All Grain Brewing / Re: RO system design
« on: July 25, 2014, 12:30:37 PM »


We're going forward on this and getting firm quotes on RO systems...  so Martin, if I spec something like <50ppm TDS, and single digits on all ions like Ca, Na, Mg, Cl, SO4, etc, that would be reasonable?

And what about alkalinity and bicarbs?

And what about pH, do I need to worry that the pH of RO water is slightly acidic?

thanks
red

[/quote]

I believe RO presents no RA, Bicarbonate or pH issues, since it has been stated that if you use RO for sparging, you don't need to treat it regarding pH concerns.  Based on that, I build my strike water from RO and sparge with straight RO - but caution should be used if you are not batch sparging or no sparge brewing.  Fly sparging can extract tannins, if you get too low on the gravity (below 3 Brix, IIRC).

1094
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Barleywine Yeast Suggestions
« on: July 25, 2014, 12:08:10 PM »
Theoretically champagne yeast should be less attenuative in a maltose environment since champagne yeast has evolved to ferment in a fructose environment.

I have thrown champagne yeast at stuck fermentations on two occasions and both times it did nothing at all. one time I pitched two packets of dry champagne into 5 gallons of RIS stuck at 1.036 and it touched it not a jot.

I thi9nk y9our experience is pretty typical, Jonathan.  It's just another of those homebrew myths that refuses to die.

You could be right - I have only used it to bottle condition a well aged monster (Lord Fatbottom from NB), where the original yeast was just plain spent after 3 months aging in the secondary.  It finished off the BW nicely, but maybe it just carbed the brew and that made the difference in the perception of the cloying-ness drop....so, I withdraw the champagne yeast suggestion for all but carbonation purposes with these big boys.

1095
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Barleywine Yeast Suggestions
« on: July 23, 2014, 06:23:41 PM »
I guess WLP 099 is English Strong Ale strain FWIW...all the way to 25% ABV, supposedly.

Pages: 1 ... 71 72 [73] 74 75 ... 146