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Messages - ynotbrusum

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286
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Adding Dextrin for Brett
« on: October 03, 2014, 01:48:10 PM »
Depending on the hopping rate and ABV, you probably won't get much (if any) lactobacillus activity at this point.

Just as well, lacto won't ferment long-chain dextrins.

If you add sugar, brett will ferment it first.

If you add maltodextrin, brett will break it down to sugar, and then ferment it.

If you want acidity, you can blend in some sour beer or add lactic acid directly. A touch of lactic acid is nice because brett can convert it to ethyl lactate.

You could add a mixed culture with pediococcus, but IME pedio in secondary usually has a huge lag time (8 months minimum) and isn't worth it for the small amount of acidity you need in a brett saison.

Good point, Kyle.  I forgot that Lacto doesn't handle the long chains.  I suppose he could do a small sour mash hit it with. Sacc, then blend back to taste.  But that is a bit more work.

287
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: New Yeast 'Thermo tolerant"
« on: October 03, 2014, 01:44:48 PM »
But does it throw off fusels?  Wondering about the flavor profile.....

288
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Adding Dextrin for Brett
« on: October 03, 2014, 11:35:28 AM »
I guess the question should be asked -What is your final gravity?  That will give you a better indication of where you will end up.  I agree that Breet needs no more food, but if you want the Lacto to work on something it needs something there to work on.  Brett will metabolize whatever is there, including Sacc. yeasts.

Guessing blindly, I figure the MD will give the Lacto some munchables.  Give it a shot.

289
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Safbrew Abbaye Ale
« on: October 03, 2014, 11:27:27 AM »
I hate to say it, but as a carbed sample last night, I wasn't really happy with it.  I think it is an abbey style yeast, not a saison...my problem really is with its use for a Belgian Golden.  The Beer had Belgian sugar at high Krausen or just past that point.  The flavor is somewhat Trappist-like, but kinda "flat", without much in the way of esters, other than a subtle pear note.  I am going to let one warm up quite a bit and see if that has any effect.  All things considered, I would say that the flavor profile lacks the complexity that I have come to taste with the liquid yeasts that are Trappist originated.  My recipe was basically Pilsner 8 lbs, Wheat 2 pounds, lightly hopped with  Hallertauer and Hallertauer Mittelfruh, but I don't recall the specifics on that presently.  I may try it in a Dubbel to see if there is any better result.

290
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Best vessel to dry hop in?
« on: October 03, 2014, 11:14:13 AM »
I rarely dry hop, but when I do, I prefer to use a stainless mesh tea ball or two.  They can be retrieved when desired, by simply suspending them with light monofilament fishing line or just leave them there.

291
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Commercial recipes posted online
« on: October 03, 2014, 03:44:18 AM »
And there is the book "Craft Beers for the Homebrewer".  Some great Brewers giving their recipes for use by the homebrewer, along with a little of their personal stories.  Many started as homebrewers!  And it has commentary by some notable Homebrew types, such as Denny Conn!

Really a nice read and I am brewing my way through it...with excellent results.

292
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Belle Saison Fermentation Temperature
« on: October 01, 2014, 03:09:05 PM »
With the Belle Saison I have made a few beers. The last one is started at 77 F and let it warm up itself till 83 F  and after that I kept it on 75 F.

This beer became more a Saison then the previous ones I started on 68 F and let it rise in a day to 71 F. This beer was a good beer but not realy a Saison. It was too sweet dispite the final SG of 1001.

The next time I want to start at 82 and let it rise to 86 F to get even more Saison character.

FWIW, Stan Hieronymus starts his Belgians in the low to mid 60's.  However, many here claim to jump into the higher temps right away.  Perhaps a split batch would give you a way to determine what you prefer?  Just a thought.

293
Another suggestion (unsolicited, I know), is to brew one style of beer over and over again, to get your system and processes "dialed-in".  It's not mandatory by any means, but it does give you a goal, which is repeatability.  If that is a goal you wish to seek.

In the end, you will make beer - the guys here simply want you to make good beer, because it will turn you into another AHA Forum junky!  And that is a good thing according to us.

294
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Crystal != Caramel
« on: October 01, 2014, 02:48:00 PM »
What they say there is:

"The basic information you need to know to differentiate these two malts is this: Caramel malt is applied to both kiln and roaster produced caramel malts, but the term crystal malt is normally reserved for caramel malts produced in a roaster.  Logically, the term crystal malt should be reserved to describe malts that are truly crystal in that they exhibit even and consistent crystal like, glassy kernels which is possible only by roasting. If we accept this terminology as being appropriate, then it should be realized that all crystal malts are caramel (type) malts, but not all caramel malts are crystal malts."

So, kilned-produced malts are always caramel malts but roaster-produced malts are either Crystal malts or caramel malts, depending on the extent of even and consistent glassiness (which only comes from roasting).  Now the hard part - pick out the difference in taste!

295
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Amber needs saving, Help!
« on: October 01, 2014, 02:39:21 PM »
I wouldn't do any additions at this point - it likely won't improve the beer more than just letting it mellow over time.  Given that your concern is bitterness, you really can't fix that very well at this stage of the game IMHO.  Just give it more time.  You can always bottle it and taste it every couple weeks.  At 40 IBU's it shouldn't seem too bitter, but your palate may say otherwise...

296
All Grain Brewing / Re: Cold Steeping Dark Grains
« on: September 30, 2014, 05:24:25 PM »
Like I said - try it all of these ways and go with what you like best.  The beauty of our hobby is that you can make it the way you like to make it.  I can't say I prefer cold steeped to a large degree over late addition roast grains.  And as noted YMMV.

297
All Grain Brewing / Re: Cold Steeping Dark Grains
« on: September 30, 2014, 11:05:10 AM »
I have had good success with late mash to mash out additions of roasted grains, but if you just want color, it's hard to beat the Sinamar product for that.  I have done the cold steeping, which works well enough, too, but as you noted, you need to add more of the roasted grain to get the flavors from it...so, if your pH is right, you probably can just add the roast grains into the mash and be set.

Try it a few ways and decide what you like best.  My last Baltic Porter had a late mash/mash out addition and I liked it very much.YMMV, of course.

298
Beer Recipes / Re: PNW American Sour
« on: September 30, 2014, 04:43:52 AM »
Those Spiedels are deceiving - the airlock having bubbles is a good sign.  I often get minimal to no movement of the top with those, but I am typically doing a lager with my 60l's.

Keep posting as you progress on this project.  It sounds like a great beer.

299
Beer Recipes / Re: American Mild
« on: September 29, 2014, 07:10:34 PM »
I'm thinking that the Hellion ale by Trve Brewing might be in this "category".  I may base mine on that, but cut back on the oats a bit.

300
Beer Recipes / Re: American Mild
« on: September 29, 2014, 06:54:31 PM »
I'm late to the party, but I like the concept.  I just finished off a British Mild keg based on Cigar City's "El Lector".  It was great, so my thought is to brew up a 10 gallon batch more in line with the concept here, but to split the batch between a couple/few different ale yeasts, including the 1450, the NW Ale and maybe a 1056...

Definitely peeking my interest, as a rarely push for anything much above 4.5% ABV.

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