Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - ynotbrusum

Pages: 1 ... 21 22 [23] 24 25 ... 169
331
Equipment and Software / Re: Favorite type of wort chiller ?
« on: July 26, 2016, 11:00:15 AM »
For five gallon batches - the Hydra.  For 10ers, I often go with the Jamil recirc then finish with a counter flow with an ice bath pre-chiller for the well water.  Needless to say I get to lager temps pretty darn quick.  Just depends on the outside temp and how much work I want to do in the clean up... Time saved chilling usually is eaten up by the extra cleaning time.

332
Gotta plead laziness - I spray my SS spider out thoroughly with hot sink water until visibly clean, dry it, and call it good.

Me, too.  I rinse out right after racking from the kettle along with the chiller and BK.  If some tough crud persists, I will soak in Craftmeister and I have never had a problem.

333
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: No fermentation after 24 hours.
« on: July 26, 2016, 10:26:35 AM »
Relax - I brewed a Saison Saturday and pitched liquid yeast (no starter - guilty as charged on the yeast abuse).  No airlock activity and didn't sweat it.  Monday night with no bubbling, I pushed down on the rim of the lid all around the top of the bucket, swirled the contents gently and watched as the machine gun started.  Never even cracked the lid.  With more experience, you will get used to delays and false alarms.  Welcome to a great hobby!

334
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Experience with Saflager 34/70?
« on: July 22, 2016, 01:50:46 PM »
Split batch is a great way to go with 10 gallons of lager wort.  I tried S-189 against 34/70 and S-189 is "cleaner" yet than 34/70.  I made a Helles and the S-189 tastes great, but really did not have the shine to the malts that 34/70 seemed to bring out.  Both were quaffable in quantity, however.

335
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Brewing as you age
« on: July 22, 2016, 01:14:39 PM »
For five gallon batches, I use BIAB bags, but really just use the bag as a nylon "false bottom" in my rectangular cooler (also works right in the pot, if I really want to do it that way). I don't squeeze the bag, either, so I mash just like I did previously including the vorlauf.  Bigger batches may work, but I use my tried and true keggle mash tun for those and either pump or just run off 2 gallons at a time into buckets for transfer to the BK or into the fermenter.

336
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Why Do You Homebrew?
« on: July 12, 2016, 04:29:55 AM »
At this point I like the time away from the stress of my regular job and I produce something that is universally liked among my friends.  They initially tolerated my Homebrew, but as I got better at it by brewing and reading more each year, now they prefer it and ask for certain specific beer styles that I have made.  But because I choose what I make, I can expose them to new styles that they probably never would have tried otherwise.  It's the ultimate social hobby.

337
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Munich yeast by Lallemand
« on: July 07, 2016, 12:08:10 PM »
How was the flavor profile?  I got the beast under control early enough, so hopefully no major issues or fusels....

338
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Oktoberfest Ale
« on: July 06, 2016, 11:35:47 AM »
To the OP - you could also consider a simple fermenter box made of insulated foam insulation held together with some duct tape in which to put your fermenter or water bath for the fermenter.  It need not be fancy - indeed I know of guys that lager that way all the time.  With switching out frozen water bottles, you can lager pretty reliably, especially in a cool basement, if you have access to that.

Then you can use any lager yeast....

339
Yeast and Fermentation / Munich yeast by Lallemand
« on: July 06, 2016, 05:19:58 AM »
My first try with this yeast - Gave this one a shot in a low gravity Hefeweizen.  Inside of 24 hours with a two quart frozen water bottle on the lid it shot yeast through the airlock (at 64F ambient basement temperature).  Overnight at 36 hours it popped the bucket lid with a slight yeast drool down the side.  Nice spicy phenolics and light banana esters in the wiped up yeast.  Put it in a cold water bath to slow things down.

Is this typical with this yeast and does it make a good hefe?

340
All Grain Brewing / Re: Belgian Tripel Advice
« on: July 03, 2016, 05:09:02 AM »
Keith - do you add sugar in the boil for your homebrews?  I had heard/read/imagined?? That it's better to let the yeast get underway and to add the sugar at high krausen....maybe another Homebrew myth?

341
All Grain Brewing / Re: Ridiculously fruity ESB???
« on: July 03, 2016, 04:51:50 AM »
Interesting to hear about the need for minerals - I made a Porter yesterday following Gordon Strong's recipe in the Homebrew All Stars book (he uses 1968) where he suggests adding CaCl2 to the mash and boil kettle.  I modified the recipe on malts slightly but followed the suggested salt additions and did a Shaken Not Stirred starter with the yeast and pitched at high krausen, so I'm hoping for the best. 

Is 1968 a touchy yeast on temps?  I'm hoping to repitch, if it goes well....

342
All Grain Brewing / Re: Belgian Tripel Advice
« on: June 30, 2016, 02:51:46 PM »
Depending on the yeast style used, consider an open fermentation - not totally open, but with a piece of loose foil covering the grommet/airlock hole. Some Belgian strains seem to finish up better and not stall out when the pressure of an airlock isn't used.  Just a thought in terms of "tips"....otherwise I agree with all that has been said above - don't rack too early!

343
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What style should I enter this in?
« on: June 30, 2016, 02:44:55 PM »
The fruitiness of the lime from hops likely will preclude it from a straight up International Pale Lager or other similar German beer category, since most of those involve floral, herbal or spicy type hops, rather than fruity hops.  I suggest considering to enter it in the Experimental Beer category and explain the reason why - it is a traditional International Pale Lager or similar beer, only it uses Wakatu hops for a hint of lime.  There is nothing wrong with that and it can't be out of style in that category.  If it's very flavorful and otherwise well made, then you have a good chance in that category.

344
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lager Yeast Starter Failure
« on: June 29, 2016, 11:36:52 AM »
I rarely make starters anymore - I just make smaller batches and step through to get up to 10 gallon batches.  That said, try the "shaken not stirred" method next time - it really gets the most out of starters by pitching at high krausen.

Use the grains as soon as you can - the crushed grains will oxidize (stale) over time.  They should be good for a couple weeks and then degradation will depend on how it is stored/packaged (vacuum sealed in a freezer would be best.

Good luck and get some dry yeast as a backup - 34/70 and S-189 are two to consider.

345
I would avoid making a habit of long term primary storage, but you should be fine.  I have found that summer ale brewing is the most likely to get contaminated from a long term primary, just because the amount of micro flora in the air is so much greater, so the batch is exposed to a greater chance of some unwanted critters getting in there up front before sealing up the primary.  Then after the sacc yeast are done and go dormant, wild yeasts and molds can take a hold on a batch with the longer time at room temperature that occurs with a lengthy primary fermentation/storage in the primary.

Pages: 1 ... 21 22 [23] 24 25 ... 169