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Messages - ynotbrusum

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346
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: I'm in the library....
« on: May 05, 2017, 07:33:45 PM »
Definitely one for my listening list for an upcoming brew day.  I just listened last night to Drew on Beersmith from last October.  You guys are really starting to "get around".  Looking forward to hearing (and seeing) your insights.

347
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast
« on: May 05, 2017, 04:23:00 PM »
There is only one thing that determines if a strain is year round...demand.  It may seem like a lot of homebrewers like a particular strain and still not be enough to make it commercially viable.

That must be why 1450 is always available! ;)

348
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Blonde Ale Gone Wrong
« on: May 05, 2017, 04:19:00 PM »
With the addition of the cinnamon and the vanilla beans in a secondary, you may have a contamination, as Denny says or it could be as Dave says, an underpitch or early racking issue... interestingly, Mitch Steele also noted:

"The other contributor to Acetaldehyde in beer is excessive aging on yeast. As the yeast cells stress, and eventually die, they can lyse (burst) and release AA from the cell interior into the beer. This happens a lot with big, high alcohol beers, because often they have trouble getting to the end fermentation, so the brewers prolong the fermentation time on the yeast-a consequence is that the yeast cells can die and release AA."

Not likely your problem here, but worthy of noting to a newer brewer.  These things can slip in to the process in so many ways.  And it could be an unusual flavor compound resulting from the particular cinnamon and vanilla combination (though I don't think that would result in the green apple flavor issue).

Don't be discouraged is the main point and brew more beer is the second point.  You will soon get into a pattern of improvement with each new beer.

349
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Cell density of top cropped yeast
« on: May 05, 2017, 10:53:04 AM »
That's why I typically see a repitch from top cropping in the suggested 50 to 150 ml range...I don't think exact cell counts are a concern - it's okay just to be in the ball park, since most of us don't have hemocytometers to do a proper count!  Best of luck with the top cropping - I'm sure it will work out fine.

350
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 2017 NHC Competition Chat
« on: May 05, 2017, 10:40:49 AM »
Yea, I couldn't print labels yet for the finals, so it must be in transition still.

351
Ingredients / Re: Brewtan B
« on: May 04, 2017, 09:25:59 PM »
Yeah, Joe said distribution could start shortly after NHC, if everything stays on track.

352
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 2017 NHC Competition Chat
« on: May 04, 2017, 09:22:37 PM »
Congrats to you all for some great entries.  As is sometimes the case, I advanced with a 37 for a light lager in second place and lost out in miniBos with a 39.5 on a Czech Dark Lager.  But I know the competition was steep in light of the winners in my region (perennial high placers in NHC), so that is perfectly fine.  My third entry must not have held up very well - it got an 18, so something bad developed as it sat at the competition-end for about 8 weeks.  No complaints here, though - everybody had the same situation. 


353
Ingredients / Re: Brewtan B
« on: May 04, 2017, 06:14:21 PM »
Joe F had some packets of BTB at the Chicago regional for the NHC - so I think I should be able to make that packet last through the release date here in the U.S.  Now let's hope it's not released on an exclusive basis through InBev outlets in captive clone kits only!!!

354
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wired opaque fermentation
« on: May 04, 2017, 06:07:09 PM »
Primary ferment in buckets or stainless and you save yourself the visual agony!  But hey, welcome back to the hobby.  Its popularity may be peaking, just like craft beer enthusiasm seems to be doing.

355
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cold packing a yeast starter?
« on: May 04, 2017, 05:56:41 PM »
That seals it for me - no canning of wort for me.

356
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: It Continues...
« on: May 04, 2017, 05:52:47 PM »
Hopefully that's the beneficial effect of the conglomeration on the Homebrew side and no negative effects occur.  I can live with that, since I typically don't stick with specific recipes from others any more for styles - just tweak from what I've done in the past and try to "taste it through in my head" before brewing.  Just don't mess with my supply chain!

357
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cold packing a yeast starter?
« on: May 03, 2017, 05:36:24 PM »
I'm no microbiologist, but I've always read and been told that unless you pressure can it you run the risk of botulism.  Now, a lot of people will say they've been doing it without pressure canning for years and had no problems.  But it makes you think they should have added the word "yet  A pressure canner will get to 250F which is hot enough to kill botulinum in a few minutes.  At 212 (regular boiling method like you propose) it will take 7-11 hours of boiling to kill them.  http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2014/11/pressure-canning-starter-wort.html

Read the last section here...http://byo.com/stories/issue/item/434-canning-yeast-starters



That is a scary risk.  I think the NB product of pre-canned wort for starters is better insurance for me, or better yet, just boil up some DME each time I make a starter or just pull some wort at the end of the boil and chill and start with that as a starter with a later in the day pitch...

358
I read these forums often, but never post... you guys are a lot smarter brewers than me.

I'll just throw this out there on the subject of 'suckback' though, so no one thinks that because their airlock is full after a 30 degree temperature drop, nothing got in. 

As you cool the beer, no matter at what rate, you are going to suck oxygen in, and/or liquid in from your airlock. How much oxygen and/or liquid is solely dependent on the magnitude of the temperature change. The only other thing that can happen is a big pressure drop inside your fermenter if it's totally sealed, or in the case of plastic you might have it deform/collapse slightly. In either of those cases, you will have a rush of oxygen into your fermenter when you break the seal.

Whether that amount of oxygen, starsan, vodka, etc. getting in is ok, or whether it's better to keg, I'm not sure. Just wanted to make sure everyone understands what's going on (and if I was stating the obvious, I'm sorry).

Not stating the obvious, but missing the alternative:  there should be no O2 suck back if you are displacing the vacuum with CO2.  That's what the keg transfer under CO2 is all about, I believe.  The space needs something to fill the displacement, but it can be CO2 rather than O2, right?

359
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pitching Roselare Blend Slurry
« on: May 02, 2017, 09:44:04 PM »
Well, this one was recently asked by another brewer.  I would question whether the yeast cake is the best route for 2 reasons:

1)   Wyeast says it is not a good idea, because the percentages of the yeasts and bugs changes from the original pitch.

2)  The age of the slurry is probably old enough to be suspect (either autolysis or Brett eating the sach and others present, just because it can).

That said, what the heck, if you think you have a "Mother Funk" working and want to send it on to a new generation, go ahead and send it.  I have an over 5 year old Solera in a 5 gallon bourbon barrel that has had probably 5 or more iterations of Flanders Red blended within it.  I use it to blend with a "new" Flanders (5 gallon batch) and an intermediate Flanders (varying amount available and held in glass), each time using proportions of each that result in a taste that I prefer, scaled up to become a 5 gallon serving batch.  The new Flanders is typically the bulk of the blend and each time I start the new Flanders with a new pitch (just 1 smack pack).  So give it a try if you want, it likely will be good beer regardless, but you may want to help out that sach yeast a bit by pitching some new Wyeast Roeselare.

360
My reuse of dry yeasts is diminished in the warmer months.  The higher potential for contamination (airborne microbes here in the Midwest) and the lower cost of the dry yeasts makes it worthwhile to just buy more during the warm months.  I re-use my liquid lager yeasts, but I am meticulous in the warmer weather regarding harvest and sanitation of those strains.  Last year I abandoned the use of virtually all liquid yeasts in the summer and pitched S-189 for my lagers.  My LHBS gave me a good deal by agreeing to split a large order of S-189 with me at a reduced per packet price (I think it was a 20 sachet package that we split). 

YMMV, of course and if you can keep it clean, it re-pitches pretty well.

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