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Messages - ynotbrusum

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376
I have found that using the software correctly and monitoring gravity to make sure the final runnings of a batch sparge don't fall below 1.010 results in an adequate assurance that pH has stayed in line with the expected parameters.  Typically my gravity on the very last runnings is 1.015-1.025, depending on the beer recipe.  This way I can merely check with my refractometer and don't need to get my pH meter and its buffers....

I have calculated using all salts and acid additions in the mash in Brunwater and found it to be very reliable (but I note the recent discussion regarding Lovibond adjustments for certain malts means you may have to test your base malts for correcting the input).

377
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: wort makeup and attenuation
« on: January 15, 2016, 08:00:11 PM »
Homebrew and all kinds of colors and strengths, but with greater strength it required greater pitches.  If your sanitation is good, then you should not have problems.  I finally gave up because I wanted to switch to a different yeast.  I think it was WLP 830 or 800.

378
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: January 15, 2016, 07:51:41 PM »


Giga 021 Kolsch after gelatin. Results amaze me with this. Gelatine made me a believer.


Dude, that's a beautiful beer. I really need to try that strain, as a 2565 guy. Cleared out nicely.

Yea and nice knife set.

379
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Diacetyl?
« on: January 15, 2016, 07:20:36 PM »
At that temp I just don't see it being a function of the US-05 - with that much hopping, maybe it is a hop related thing?  Seems too early for pedio to get much diacetyl out there....

380
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: wort makeup and attenuation
« on: January 15, 2016, 03:24:10 PM »
I think the dry lager yeasts really hit their stride in the 3rd, 4th and 5th use (the most I have taken one out is about 8 uses, IIRC - compared to 24+ pitches on a liquid lager yeast a while back).  I religiously feed yeast nutrient to all yeasts that are re-pitched. 

The first re-pitching of 34/70 can be a bit of a crap shoot, it seems, but I aerate the heck out of it (favoring O2 by stone with that situation) and give it a healthy dose of Wyeast nutrient in the last 10 minutes of the boil to give it the best chance to finish off well.  I will overshoot Mr. Malty's suggested volume of yeast, as well on the second pitch of 34/70.

No science to back this, just anecdotal experience on this one.

381
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Huh?
« on: January 15, 2016, 03:12:41 PM »
Definitely seen it before, not sure if it is from O2 exposure as harvested or exactly what, but it usually falls back into the bottom layer if left to its own devices.  It could be that the rousing just caused it to finish off its full attenuation?

382
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 2016 Spring Swap
« on: January 15, 2016, 02:53:33 PM »
I'm in , too, Jim.  I still have a couple of Jeffy's beers and a mead to drink from Swaptoberfest.  He sent me too much, including a really nice bottle of commercial sour that I have to sample!  Loved that stuff he made and the commercial ones, too.  Southern brewers rock! (From a northern brewer)....

383
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: need some direction
« on: January 15, 2016, 02:45:44 PM »
Note that he said cleaning and sanitizing.  You cannot sanitize something that is not clean.  Too many new brewers merely rinse and sanitize.  That will not cut it for long.  Get a cleaner you like and use it every time you use a piece of equipment to be sure that nothing is carried along that might cause infection of your system or beers down the road. 

For example: Tubing is especially critical to rinse out, clean, rinse out the cleaner, sanitize, store (in a way that fully drains all liquid) and then sanitize before using.

384
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Questions about competitions...
« on: January 15, 2016, 02:38:20 PM »
I thought competitions sounded kinda dumb, too, but then I entered one, didn't agree with one judge's assessment and decided to be a judge.  Now I see that the style guidelines are necessary to attempt to set an objectively determined criteria to what is inherently subjective.  I have given beers a score that indicates that the beer is not adhering to technical style requirements, but then let the brewer know that it may be a perfectly fine beer, otherwise.  I even go out on a limb to compliment the brewer, if it is particularly good, despite style issues.  This goes back to the commercial brewers, who are freer in their categorization of beers and allow substantial stylistic drift.

Now when I enter a competition, I know that order of the flight, handling of the beer, pouring of the beer and even lighting conditions of the competition may have impacted any one score and I am convinced more than ever that packaging the bottle for a competition may be a huge difference between a beer that comes out of the gate well and one that appears lacking at first glance.  For this reason, I try to give a beer a healthy chance and always go back to it before finalizing my bottom line number.

In the end, the competition should be fun for the entrant and a worthwhile experience for the judge.  Be civil and honest and find something to encourage the brewer, if the beer falls short.  New brewers appreciate the feedback and may improve their brewing more quickly as a result of good feedback; old pros know not to enter a beer unless it is pretty darn good and they do everything they can to make sure it will hold up through the process to get to the judge's glass in the best shape it can be.

385
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: looking for a nice glass set
« on: January 15, 2016, 12:12:09 PM »
I was given two sets of Mikasa variety pack a few years back.  They are really nice:

http://www.mikasa.com/beer/brewmasters/varietal-glasses%2C-set-of-4/LV005-429.html#cgid=drinkware_barware_beer&sz=14&frmt=ajax&start=0&hitcount=14

Best of luck with your pursuit.

386
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: New year, new Zymurgy editor!
« on: January 12, 2016, 11:55:44 AM »
Thank you, Jill, for your work - I still get great enjoyment each month or so when the Zymurgy issue appears in my mail.  It is a favored publication, indeed.  I am sure it will continue to surpass expectations, and since you are handling the transition, it will likely be without missing a beat.  Welcome, Dave!

387
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Questions about competitions...
« on: January 11, 2016, 12:01:45 PM »
I think it has to do with the Czech lager strains - they can be clean on day one and re-establish diacetyl to detectable levels after a fe more weeks...

388
All Grain Brewing / Re: Low pH with Best Pils Malt?
« on: January 10, 2016, 11:24:11 AM »
Is there a table out there for adjustments within Brunwater for these base malt
Lovibond adjustments?  That would be very helpful, if it exists or if it could be compiled....

389
All Grain Brewing / Re: Low pH with Best Pils Malt?
« on: January 10, 2016, 06:17:43 AM »
I just got a sack of Rahr 2 row - what adjustment should be made in Brunwater for this malt?  Treat it as higher Lovibond?  The label on the sack says 2.14  for "Color of Wort, Degrees Lovibond".  Do I input as 3 or 4 Lovibond in Brunwater? Or add 3-4 to the 2.14 for this purpose?

I guess this was common knowledge, but I rarely use Rahr - my LHBS doesn't carry it often.

390
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Experimental Brewing Episode 5
« on: January 09, 2016, 04:55:20 AM »
Listened last night while watching hockey and working up a recipe...another good podcast, guys. Interesting tidbits - the Yeast Bay microbiologist's suggestion to not worry about mixed fermentations, i.e., just roll with it on repitching cultures, was nice to hear.  There had been some local debate among the "sours guys" on whether you had to/should start out again with a certain laboratory produced microbiota balance to be sure you would get similar results.  I thought not and repitch with wild abandon, but was curious to hear from a pro - so that was particularly helpful.

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