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Messages - ynotbrusum

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391
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Canned wort for the non-canner
« on: August 05, 2015, 04:43:00 PM »
I would sanitize the can top, for sure.  As to water, I would be inclined to use distilled and sanitize the container it comes in.

It is a four pack of pints.

Not endorsing it, just pointing out the availability!

392
General Homebrew Discussion / Canned wort for the non-canner
« on: August 05, 2015, 11:26:33 AM »
Just saw this new product.  Just add water and yeast...

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/fast-pitch-canned-wort-4-pack

It might make sense in limited situations to save a few minutes time in boiling and cooling.

393
All Grain Brewing / Re: 100% pils malt. Too light?
« on: August 04, 2015, 11:24:29 AM »
Excellent - all lagers are a tough category to medal in - this past spring I had a 43 on a Dortmunder that didn't even medal in its category, but that was a very large competition with many highly experienced lager beer brewers, so I was happy with the score and figured that was worth my while entering (I'm not a big comp guy).  So, medaling in any of the lager categories is a tough thing to do and you should take pride in that!  Well done, sir!

394
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hop and Brew School
« on: August 04, 2015, 11:07:51 AM »
Looks to be perfectly timed with the wet hop season, perhaps.  That should be an interesting set of sessions for nano and homebrewers.

395
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: How to prep for a competition
« on: August 04, 2015, 11:03:01 AM »
That is a concise article, with the packaging part being very important.  A broken bottle in shipment typically means that you aren't able to advance to BOS, unless you include an extra bottle in the shipment.  With shipping costs so high and packaging requiring such efforts to guard against breakage, I wonder why competitions don't allow a plastic half liter brown bottle with twist off caps to be used instead of requiring glass pryoff bottles only?  Less chance of breakage or leakage and they can also be carbed in the bottle like glass bottles (indeed I use a slightly under filled bottle with the air squeezed out of it as an "indicator" bottle to know that the bottle conditioning of a bottled batch is complete.)

Just my two Lincolns....

396
Interesting results, Malcolm.  I like the little pear-like quality in a Kolsch, though I brew mostly lagers these days, so maybe I will do a side by side for myself to see what I like better going with different pitch rates on a lager batch.

397
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dumping a batch
« on: August 03, 2015, 11:53:50 AM »
I have dumped a couple that were badly infected in the course of fermentation.  It takes only one such event to begin a regular schedule of extensive and very thorough cleaning (with the strongest agent you can justify), boiling (as able) and sanitizing with a highly effective sanitizer.  I used to rinse well, sanitize with iodophor and call it good - no more.  I change up regularly the approach and break things down fully a few times a year for a prolonged soak.  But with the new plastics and their limitations, I find that I really have to treat each kind of vessel differently on the cleaning step (stainless - no more than an overnight soak in PBW; buckets - soak for a couple days in PBW; plastic better bottles - no PBW, but scrub well and use OxyClean for just a few minutes before rinsing and sanitizing). I am going to try Mark's suggestion about an ounce of TSP and an ounce of vinegar in five gallons of water for sanitizing, since he said it is not hardness affected. I haven't used One Step in years, but I may consider it for the quick clean and go approach that others don't provide....I have a bunch of samples from a judging this past summer.

Definitely a time to consider sanitation, again, BEFORE there is another batch to dump.

398
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lager
« on: August 02, 2015, 11:16:36 AM »
Marshall explains it pretty well for what many follow for lagers:

http://brulosophy.com/methods/lager-method/

Cheers

399
All Grain Brewing / Re: Question about batch sparge timing
« on: August 02, 2015, 10:20:15 AM »
I batch sparge for all the reasons stated above.  As to setting the grain bed, I use a little rice hulls and a fairly fine crush, then I run off slowly while vorlaufing.  Probably just under 50% flow rate.  Then when it looks reasonably clear I start collecting pretty close to wide open.  Then I put a double strainer on top of my boil kettle and pour the wort through it to catch any husks that might have gotten through.  I check my late runnings and they are always above 1.15 or so, so I assume the best as to astringency and pH....YMMV, of course.
1.015 is what I think you meant.

Correct, Jeff.  Big fingered typing got me again.

400
All Grain Brewing / Re: Water chemistry question
« on: August 01, 2015, 08:38:23 AM »
Since I have Brunwater, I use it exclusively. So I have never tried  Beer smith's water profile.  Even so, most of these things contemplate batch size as the finished wort collection and use total water volume as the reference to the gross starting point for water.

401
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lacto suggestions?
« on: July 30, 2015, 07:12:45 PM »
I don't think anything is gained by going too warm.  My last batch was held at 85F for 4 days as a starter, but it was the Omega Lact blend (Brevis and planetarium blend).

402
Nicely done - makes me a bit misty-eyed thinking back to my bottling partner...he's 23 now and we see him once a month, if we are lucky.  He's a certified beer lover and texts me with new found brews in his work travels.

Don't blink.

403
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Priming a Hefeweizen in a keg
« on: July 29, 2015, 04:24:59 AM »
Thanks, Steve. I will bookmark those sites for future use!

404
All Grain Brewing / Re: Water Profile Importance
« on: July 28, 2015, 09:09:24 PM »
For stouts?  That is not terribly significant to me.  There are huge differences with other styles.

405
All Grain Brewing / Re: Question about batch sparge timing
« on: July 28, 2015, 12:36:12 PM »
I batch sparge for all the reasons stated above.  As to setting the grain bed, I use a little rice hulls and a fairly fine crush, then I run off slowly while vorlaufing.  Probably just under 50% flow rate.  Then when it looks reasonably clear I start collecting pretty close to wide open.  Then I put a double strainer on top of my boil kettle and pour the wort through it to catch any husks that might have gotten through.  I check my late runnings and they are always above 1.15 or so, so I assume the best as to astringency and pH....YMMV, of course.

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