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Messages - ynotbrusum

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391
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 2016 Spring Swap
« on: January 16, 2016, 04:13:29 PM »
Like it!

392
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Bottling day on first batch
« on: January 16, 2016, 05:11:29 AM »
Congratulations and welcome to homebrewing.  I think you will find it to be very satisfying.  Before you know it you will be kegging your brews to avoid the hassle of bottling - but then, again, I enjoy a bottle of homebrew once in a while (nothing like hearing that sound of opening a carbonated homebrew that you made!)

393
All Grain Brewing / Re: 1st AG brew questions
« on: January 16, 2016, 05:07:15 AM »
If your boil is aggressive, there is no need to boil for 90 minutes...but you can do that for color or just to try it out.  60 or less is generally adequate to rid the wort of most SMM issues.

394
All Grain Brewing / Re: rice hulls
« on: January 16, 2016, 05:01:42 AM »
I agree with the cheap insurance statement, but if you run off a bit more slowly than wide open, you will likely have no problem with a stuck sparge (the only stuck sparge said were high adjunct beers that I drained so quickly with a pump that it compacted the grain bed.)

395
All Grain Brewing / Re: Batch sparge sparging question
« on: January 16, 2016, 04:55:52 AM »
I suggest stirring it all after adding the sparge water, then vorlauf til clear (sometimes it helps to run the vorlauf slowly to get the grain bed set again), but once it is clear, I let it rip, usually.  If using a lot of adjuncts, consider adding rice hulls to make it easier to drain.

396
I have found that using the software correctly and monitoring gravity to make sure the final runnings of a batch sparge don't fall below 1.010 results in an adequate assurance that pH has stayed in line with the expected parameters.  Typically my gravity on the very last runnings is 1.015-1.025, depending on the beer recipe.  This way I can merely check with my refractometer and don't need to get my pH meter and its buffers....

I have calculated using all salts and acid additions in the mash in Brunwater and found it to be very reliable (but I note the recent discussion regarding Lovibond adjustments for certain malts means you may have to test your base malts for correcting the input).

397
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: wort makeup and attenuation
« on: January 15, 2016, 08:00:11 PM »
Homebrew and all kinds of colors and strengths, but with greater strength it required greater pitches.  If your sanitation is good, then you should not have problems.  I finally gave up because I wanted to switch to a different yeast.  I think it was WLP 830 or 800.

398
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: January 15, 2016, 07:51:41 PM »


Giga 021 Kolsch after gelatin. Results amaze me with this. Gelatine made me a believer.


Dude, that's a beautiful beer. I really need to try that strain, as a 2565 guy. Cleared out nicely.

Yea and nice knife set.

399
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Diacetyl?
« on: January 15, 2016, 07:20:36 PM »
At that temp I just don't see it being a function of the US-05 - with that much hopping, maybe it is a hop related thing?  Seems too early for pedio to get much diacetyl out there....

400
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: wort makeup and attenuation
« on: January 15, 2016, 03:24:10 PM »
I think the dry lager yeasts really hit their stride in the 3rd, 4th and 5th use (the most I have taken one out is about 8 uses, IIRC - compared to 24+ pitches on a liquid lager yeast a while back).  I religiously feed yeast nutrient to all yeasts that are re-pitched. 

The first re-pitching of 34/70 can be a bit of a crap shoot, it seems, but I aerate the heck out of it (favoring O2 by stone with that situation) and give it a healthy dose of Wyeast nutrient in the last 10 minutes of the boil to give it the best chance to finish off well.  I will overshoot Mr. Malty's suggested volume of yeast, as well on the second pitch of 34/70.

No science to back this, just anecdotal experience on this one.

401
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Huh?
« on: January 15, 2016, 03:12:41 PM »
Definitely seen it before, not sure if it is from O2 exposure as harvested or exactly what, but it usually falls back into the bottom layer if left to its own devices.  It could be that the rousing just caused it to finish off its full attenuation?

402
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 2016 Spring Swap
« on: January 15, 2016, 02:53:33 PM »
I'm in , too, Jim.  I still have a couple of Jeffy's beers and a mead to drink from Swaptoberfest.  He sent me too much, including a really nice bottle of commercial sour that I have to sample!  Loved that stuff he made and the commercial ones, too.  Southern brewers rock! (From a northern brewer)....

403
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: need some direction
« on: January 15, 2016, 02:45:44 PM »
Note that he said cleaning and sanitizing.  You cannot sanitize something that is not clean.  Too many new brewers merely rinse and sanitize.  That will not cut it for long.  Get a cleaner you like and use it every time you use a piece of equipment to be sure that nothing is carried along that might cause infection of your system or beers down the road. 

For example: Tubing is especially critical to rinse out, clean, rinse out the cleaner, sanitize, store (in a way that fully drains all liquid) and then sanitize before using.

404
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Questions about competitions...
« on: January 15, 2016, 02:38:20 PM »
I thought competitions sounded kinda dumb, too, but then I entered one, didn't agree with one judge's assessment and decided to be a judge.  Now I see that the style guidelines are necessary to attempt to set an objectively determined criteria to what is inherently subjective.  I have given beers a score that indicates that the beer is not adhering to technical style requirements, but then let the brewer know that it may be a perfectly fine beer, otherwise.  I even go out on a limb to compliment the brewer, if it is particularly good, despite style issues.  This goes back to the commercial brewers, who are freer in their categorization of beers and allow substantial stylistic drift.

Now when I enter a competition, I know that order of the flight, handling of the beer, pouring of the beer and even lighting conditions of the competition may have impacted any one score and I am convinced more than ever that packaging the bottle for a competition may be a huge difference between a beer that comes out of the gate well and one that appears lacking at first glance.  For this reason, I try to give a beer a healthy chance and always go back to it before finalizing my bottom line number.

In the end, the competition should be fun for the entrant and a worthwhile experience for the judge.  Be civil and honest and find something to encourage the brewer, if the beer falls short.  New brewers appreciate the feedback and may improve their brewing more quickly as a result of good feedback; old pros know not to enter a beer unless it is pretty darn good and they do everything they can to make sure it will hold up through the process to get to the judge's glass in the best shape it can be.

405
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: looking for a nice glass set
« on: January 15, 2016, 12:12:09 PM »
I was given two sets of Mikasa variety pack a few years back.  They are really nice:

http://www.mikasa.com/beer/brewmasters/varietal-glasses%2C-set-of-4/LV005-429.html#cgid=drinkware_barware_beer&sz=14&frmt=ajax&start=0&hitcount=14

Best of luck with your pursuit.

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