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Messages - ynotbrusum

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421
Ingredients / Re: zinc supplement
« on: October 15, 2014, 08:19:48 PM »
Isn't there zinc in wyeast nutrient?

I thought it was the main ingredient....

422
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: How Do Fermentables Affect Flavor?
« on: October 15, 2014, 08:17:05 PM »
I'll second that and expand on the concept of yeast flavor/aroma contributions.

It was a huge eye opener for me the first time I split a wort and used 2 different yeasts then compared the results side by side.  They seemed like they could NEVER have been from the same boil.

Most newbies totally underestimate the contributions that yeast make to the flavor and aroma of a beer.  So much so, that other than the obvious roast/caramel/bread/toast that you get from the various specialty malts, the yeast is what really defines the flavor profile of the beer. 




+1 - yeast do most of the heavy lifting on flavor/no off flavors with most beers.

423
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Spilt Batch Pilsner Experiment
« on: October 15, 2014, 08:10:16 PM »
I love lagers and have begun to really check out the lager strains to see how well they hold up on repitching.  I guess I better take closer notes, but I have found that some of these yeasts really hit their stride after a few repitches.  So far the furthest out I have taken a lager is 21 repitches and it held up perfectly well over that.  I just wanted to change it up at that point (it is a hobby after all). 

424
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Kolsch and hot/solventy off flavors
« on: October 15, 2014, 08:00:52 PM »
It seems to be better for yeast to dive in ready for action - if you pitch and wait any substantial amount of time, you are stressing yeast that are looking for O2 uptake before starting to metabolize the wort (boiled wort is nearly oxygen free if boiled aggressively).  A momentary delay may be inconsequential, but why risk problems when it is just a few minutes to aerate properly?  Next time do a bigger batch of starter and pitch after aerating into wort that is below ferment temp and let it rise to fermentation temp and I am willing to bet that you will have a better result!  Good luck and don't give up the quest!

425
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Starter Unresponsive
« on: October 15, 2014, 07:43:05 PM »
Ever consider just making a smaller batch and stepping it up?  I go with a 2 gallon straight pitch batch with minimal hopping, then step up successively to 10 gallon batches.  I guess it depends on how quick you want to get to "production quantity" of batches....

426
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: HELP: WLP540 Abbey IV Attenuation
« on: October 15, 2014, 07:38:11 PM »
I always wait to pitch my candy sugar until at least high krausen for this reason.  Not based on science at all, just based on general observation....don't give the yeast the dessert until they pretty much are finished with dinner.  I may have just been a lucky SOB, but I get almost all Belgians to finish well into the upper range attenuation stated for the yeast.

427
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cleaning up Diacytel
« on: October 15, 2014, 07:29:32 PM »
Diacetyl will clear with raing the temp to upper 60's for a couple days.  Under attenuation may require a repitch at high krausen to get it to finish.

428
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Sampling Lagers Early for Educational Purposes
« on: October 15, 2014, 07:23:02 PM »
6 weeks grain to glass on most lighter styled lagers and O'Fests, but some take a bit longer to find the sweet spot.  A bigger lager like a Baltic Porter are best at 90 days or so...YMMV, of course.

429
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Ever have a keg post leak?
« on: October 15, 2014, 07:08:22 PM »
Pressure held for 3 days after chilling in fridge and holding it there, so this keg has been healed!

430
All Grain Brewing / Re: Cold Steeping Dark Grain with Respect to Color
« on: October 15, 2014, 07:06:03 PM »
For late additions to the mash, I boost it just a bit - maybe 25% at most.  I add them just before first runnings by stirring, then Vorlauf, then draw it off to boil kettle.

431
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Bru'n water PH using German Melanoiden
« on: October 15, 2014, 06:54:26 PM »
I've wondered the same for my RO.  TDS at 18.  I am having trouble replicating the Lake Michigan treated water mineral profile without overshooting on either sulfate or Chloride when getting Calcium into the right range for an American pale ale.  Trying to make the same water as the guys in my club - we are brewing a single hop trial with everything else being equal, except for a single hop by each guy with each guy using a different hop at the same IBU'S....

432
All Grain Brewing / Re: BIAB water
« on: October 15, 2014, 03:56:00 AM »
I guess I have been lucky... I have never used anything but tap water for my beers :)

You may be blessed with great tap water, but even with great soft water from the tap, you should eliminate chlorine or chloramine, if present, by using a Campden tablet treatment.  As you go all grain, water content becomes much more critical to get the right pH of the mash.  Once the mash pH is in the correct range, Al grain beer is improved significantly.

433
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast starter time question
« on: October 14, 2014, 11:22:41 AM »
This could be a nominee for best thread of the year!

S.Cerevisiae - I think a follow up book to the yeast book is in order - if you are willing to collaborate with Chris White and Jamil Zainesheff...or at least a new chapter in the 2d edition?

Keep up the great posts.

434
All Grain Brewing / Re: Alternative to lactic acid
« on: October 14, 2014, 05:02:06 AM »
I like what Denny says, we're not brewing gaps. Not totally sure what it means but I've found that mill gap depends on your system. I was milling at about .030 and was getting a harsh tannin thing. Efficiency was about 72%. Then I opened it up to who knows what, but my hulls are intact and the grain looks to be about 5 or 6 chunks per kernel. Tannin thing gone and my efficiency went up. Go figure

Agreed - I have encountered stuck sparges at too tight of a mill setting, as well as it becoming too hard to mill for my cordless drill (or hand crank for that matter).  I backed it off to about .035-.040 (guessing by eyeball) or so and like my crush.  Like I said, I have it marked so I can be consistent.  I am not terribly concerned about efficiency, but I don't want terrible efficiency, either (72-75% is fine for me).

435
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Force carb vs Keg conditioned
« on: October 14, 2014, 04:36:13 AM »
Agreed on the variables - same comp, different year, so yeah - different judges.  These  are some seasoned competition guys - one of whom won a gold at NHC.  One says any time he feels he wants to get a true read on a beer, he bottle conditions the entry - he just suspects that an obviously clear bottom will be treated differently - just like a higher, over-filled neck, for example.  It gets noticed and draws a comment, even if not overtly dinged; he just wants the presentation to be the best it can be and avoid some potential bias.

I see his point.

As to two entries - easily solved if two guys are involved in the brewing and one kegs and the other bottles their respective entries.  There are still plenty of other variables, such as fermentation differences, etc...but you could close the gap on those to see if the bias exists...

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