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Messages - ynotbrusum

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: How come my lagrs are cloudy?
« on: November 11, 2014, 08:07:40 PM »
There is something to the calcium deficiency issue, though - at least 40 ppm is suggested, IIRC. But yeast is my first thought. And if you added CaCl and or gypsum, you should readily reach that level.  Lastly, pH should be a bit lower - between 5.2 and 5.4, preferred.  Those clean lagers are just not forgiving at anything other than optimal levels for just about everything. But I like them.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Stinky Chest Freezer Affects Beer Flavor?
« on: November 11, 2014, 08:00:10 PM »
Toss a bowl of charcoal and a box of baking soda - that should do it after a few days.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: starter for dry lager yeast?
« on: November 11, 2014, 07:41:27 PM »
In my experience one sachet of rehydrated, then chilled 34/70 is fine with a five gallon batch of small lager (1.044 or so), which I tend to make a lot.  All yeasts seem to prefer starting below the fermentation temperature then allow them to rise into the zone.  I brew 10 gallon batches and have great results with 2 sachets at low OG.  The second gen, I use Mr Malty and find that it is recommending typically to pitch about 340 ml per 10 gallon batch - it is typically a little less than half of the collected slurry from a prior ten gallon batch.

When making a starter from liquid yeast, I tend to make a 1500 ml starter, run it out then chill and decant and add another 1500 ml of cooled starter wort and spin it up again. YMMV, of course!

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: shocking my system
« on: November 11, 2014, 07:24:13 PM »
After using iodine tablets for water treatment on extended backpacking treks earlier in life, I just don't like to use iodophor - but it is probably just in my head, since it is so dilute when used in homebrewing applications.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Quad too Sweet - What to do?
« on: November 11, 2014, 07:17:03 PM »
I would consider blending, but that is something that can be done by the glass to get the full batch ratio right.  I do that with a coffee stout that my wife likes to be more intense than I do - we compromised on this and can do a keg to my liking and add a small amount of coffee to her by the glass.

For your situation, you could try another smaller beer with the same flavor profile, but less malt, fully ferment it and blend back to your liking.

There are clear plastic fermenters available, of course.  See the big mouth bubbler from online brewing equipment suppliers as an example or Jim can show you his acrylic (I think) fermenters.  But at the end of the day I love my 60 liter Spiedels for my ten gallon lager batches.

I had a persistent bug a while back that gave me clove (and I am sensitive to clove perception).  I used PBW on everything at pretty high concentrations, even on buckets (I didn't have the problem in the better bottles thankfully) and retired a few buckets to sour use/ household maintenance-only just to be sure that wild yeast left my brewery.  It can be tough to isolate and banish, for sure.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: carb volume for 22oz bottles
« on: November 11, 2014, 12:53:09 PM »
If you want to go really high on your carb level, you can consider carbing in plastic.  There are half liter, liter and two liter plastic amber bottles available.  Or you can use clear and keep it out of the light.  Just a thought.

My German half liter glass bottles (capped and flippies) handle a lot of pressure, but I keg most of the time any more, so I don't know their rating in terms of carb volume.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: shocking my system
« on: November 11, 2014, 12:45:54 PM »
With the advent of the better bottle, I use stuff that doesn't hurt that plastic:

For stainless and counter flow chiller I CIP using PBW at the rates on the jug.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: BJCP Tasting Exam
« on: November 09, 2014, 05:29:14 AM »
I hope it went well.  I start a primer class in December for a spring taste exam, so I will be reading up on scoring and practicing with score sheets this winter.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Overly carbonated and overly bitter
« on: November 07, 2014, 06:10:34 AM »
There is typically enough yeast remaining to carbonate, even after cold crashing, unless you lagered it for an extremely long time, for what it is worth.  As long as the beers are not gushing, you can open each and re-cap at this point, but if it is too dry or solventy hot, that won't correct by doing so.

Did you ferment a bit too warm maybe?

Ingredients / Re: Big Alcohol, Little Knowledge
« on: November 06, 2014, 10:01:02 PM »
Realistically, making your own wort gives you more fermentable wort, based on my experience.  How far can you pitch it?   I don't know that....

Ingredients / Re: Second Use for Dry Hops
« on: November 06, 2014, 09:42:26 PM »
no - don't reuse them.  A neighbor tried and the result was BAD!   Trust me on this!  And they are carcinogenic to some pets!

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Overly carbonated and overly bitter
« on: November 06, 2014, 09:35:36 PM »
Yes, you can de carbonate as you seek to do, but should you?  That is a much harder question.  Why did it overcarbonate in the first place?  If an infection, then you probably have issues that are not so easily resolved.  If simply bottled before fermentation was complete, then maybe you will be okay with that process.  I rarely rack before finally hitting terminal gravity - but you don't know based on what was submitted here.  If you know based on a fast ferment test, then you can answer your question by checking FG.

If it is merely over carbonation - you should be able to pour and allow the beer to settle.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: diacetyl in a lite american lager
« on: November 06, 2014, 09:23:32 PM »
I have almost no sensitivity to diacetyl but I am crazy sensitive to clove and similar spiciness.  I have 20 gallons of German lager made for a Christmas party that I will do a D rest on this weekend just for safety sake, but I won't be able to tell if it gets rid of it or just reduces it.  I was at a club meeting at a regional brewpub and an accomplished judge told me to try a beer to be able to taste what diacetyl is and I told him that I perceived a little slickness on the tongue, but no discernible taste issue.  He said I have much to learn, so I am signed up for his BJCP tasting class this winter.  Call me palate deprived, but willing to learn.

A high % of the population is blind to diacetyl. That is due to genetics and you can't learn to taste diaceyl if you can't, it is like being color blind to some colors. My sensitivity is medium high to high. I have to use the slickness test for levels sensitive people call out Diacetyl! Sam Smiths beers, I get it. Ringwood breweries, I usually get it.

I heard of a few guys that either get it on the end of their nose, or as slickness or as a soapiness.  Hopefully I will fall in there somewhere as I had a lager recently that a couple guys said was not great and as it was a step up lager, to just get enough yeast to do a full batch to pitch into, I wasn't too worried, but I suspected diacetyl issues.  Nobody could give me a good descriptor for the flaw, so I don't know what the issue was for sure,but I suspect diacetyl. I tried my best to tell what they tasted, but at this point I guess I must admit my blind spot...

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: dry yeast cell counts
« on: November 06, 2014, 08:21:44 PM »
34/70 pitches fine in 5 gallons of sub 1.050 wort at lager temps, but I rehydrate :P

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