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Messages - ynotbrusum

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991
All Grain Brewing / Re: Newbie Malt Question
« on: August 20, 2014, 11:49:53 AM »
All are great comments.  I always say to folks who ask about homebrewing that its fifty percent janitorial skills, 25 percent artistic skills and 25 percent science skills!

992
All Grain Brewing / Re: Newbie Malt Question
« on: August 19, 2014, 11:26:00 AM »
Good on ya!  Adjusting crush can be acutely impact full on your efficiency, so check around on settings used.  I have a Barley crusher set at .039 IIRC and a Schmidling mill that is set around .042, I believe.  Whenever either slips a tad, my efficiency drop is noticeable (just add some DME to correct or live with the lower ABV).

You sound like a natural for this!  Good luck.

993
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast 1332 Northwest Ale
« on: August 19, 2014, 11:00:57 AM »
Oh to have a couple of those SS alligators in the garage....

994
All Grain Brewing / Re: Newbie Malt Question
« on: August 19, 2014, 10:47:06 AM »
To the OP - also realize that with the kit you order you will want your grains crushed - otherwise you may get whole malted grains that you will need to crush or "mill".  Good luck and let us know how it goes.  Keep things relatively cool for the fermentation by using a laundry tub with cool water and frozen water bottles or check out the term "swamp cooler" and consider a cotton towel and fan for evaporative cooling.

It's not rocket science - but it can be science.

995
All Grain Brewing / Re: What is this on top?
« on: August 19, 2014, 04:21:53 AM »
I have used some lager strains over 20 generations without an issue and had some that improve for a few generations and then stress out/mutate/go off kilter.  I always use yeast nutrient.  If you can be super sanitary, there is no reason that most yeasts can't go 5-6 generations without incident.  I have overpitched on occasion, resulting in some lightly smoky and clovey phenols, so I try to use no more than a third of a fresh slurry for ales and half of a fresh slurry for lagers.  I use a bit more if the yeast has sat a couple weeks after harvest and make a starter if more than a month has past from harvest.  Writing the strain and harvest date on removable painter's tape stuck to the vessel makes tracking things easier.  Keep the lids a little loose so residual CO2, if any, can escape and store in the fridge under beer.  Some guys pour off the beer and add a little fresh wort from time to time to maintain viability...but I don't.  I just throw old yeast away after a few months.  Lastly, I like to grow yeast up by batch size, rather than making starters all the time with new yeast.  Start with a smaller batch of say a gallon or two and progressively step up in size to get to the full batch size (10 gallons for me, typically).

Good luck with your yeasting!

996
All Grain Brewing / Re: Newbie Malt Question
« on: August 19, 2014, 04:09:51 AM »
Maybe try brew in a bag to start with?  You can do that on a no sparge basis and if you hit the temps right, it could be a do-able first batch all grain experience.  But you have a lot of grains to deal with for a five gallon batch - scaling down to 2-3 gallons will make it a little bit more manageable.

Welcome to the hobby and the forum!

997
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: pitch new yeast?
« on: August 19, 2014, 04:00:54 AM »
Of course if you pitched a sachet of dry yeast, may just have a seal leak.  Happens all the time - anymore I just peel back the bucket lid after a couple days if no airlock activity is evident.  I then confirm krausen, re-seal and typically get airlock activity upon re-sealing.  If no krausen in your glass carboy - then repitch.  If krausen, then pull the bung, re-sanitize and replace tightly.

998
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast 1332 Northwest Ale
« on: August 19, 2014, 03:53:43 AM »
I met Tom at the NHC in Grand Rapids - his talk was on everything about beer dispensing from kegs, line balancing, etc...quite informative.  It sounded like his brewery was taking up a lot of time, together with his academic pursuits kept him very busy.

Great guy.  My takeaway was to change your beer lines periodically, run your beer cleaner backward in the lines, and start with a longish dispense line and trim until the beer foams to the desired level.  (And buy the beer line in bulk!)

999
Ingredients / Re: Pilsner malt
« on: August 18, 2014, 07:49:06 PM »
Best is best, but Avengard is pretty darn good.  Weyermann is solid, too.  Dingeman's for Belgians is probably preferred, but not necessary IMHO.

1000
Ingredients / Re: Briess Malts
« on: August 18, 2014, 07:44:16 PM »
I have not found much difference between Briess and other American 2 row malts - but I so rarely use American base malts, that perhaps I should try to get some Rahr - it is cheaper from some sources.  My main malts are Avengard Pilsner and English Maris Otters.  But I brew a fair amount of English ales and very few hoppy beers - mostly BoPils and Helles with the pilsner malt.  My favorite is Best Malz - floor malted! It's more costly, but worth it.

1001
Ingredients / Re: Dumb question about candi syrup
« on: August 18, 2014, 07:24:25 PM »
In beersmith I add it into my recipe.  Write down the expected og.  Delete. Write down the og without.  The og without the post boil sugar is your measured og

Yep that's the way to go.

1002
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Safbrew Abbaye Ale
« on: August 18, 2014, 07:06:40 PM »
Man does it throw off a nice fruity aroma!  If the flavor follows the initial fermentation aroma, it will be a winner....

1003
Ingredients / Re: Dumb question about candi syrup
« on: August 16, 2014, 07:10:08 PM »
Cool, so it is like an additional 6 points added to the OG?  So if OG as measured prior to addition was 1.055, the OG would be 1.061?

1004
Ingredients / Dumb question about candi syrup
« on: August 16, 2014, 01:42:43 PM »
OK - I know my limitations, and this one has me scratching my head.  I want to add clear candi syrup (16 ozs. 1.032 ppg) at high krausen or just after and I want to calculate ABV with that late addition.  Is there an easy way to get at what the OG would have been if it had been added to the 5 gallon batch before the reading was taken without it?  Working with Beersmith, but I'm not sure how to manipulate it for this...

1005
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Safbrew Abbaye Ale
« on: August 16, 2014, 10:41:02 AM »
Got talked into brewing a golden strong ale per an award winner from a local contest this past winter.  If it's good, I may hold onto some bottles for comps.

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