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Messages - quattlebaum

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1
Beer Recipes / Re: Kolsch Guidance
« on: Today at 07:02:56 AM »

BSI supposedly has W-177, among other interesting things like Augustiner, Ettal, and Weltenburg lager yeasts, to name just a few. BSI doesn't sell to homebrewers, though, but if you have a friend in the business you could ask them really nicely to order some...  ;D

http://www.brewingscience.com/PDF/prodlist/BSI_Yeast_Descriptions_Guide.pdf

I have been extremely happy with my results from WLP029, but it would be interesting to know how W-177 compares. Does anybody have a clue as to which of the breweries in Cologne might use the W-177 strain?
[/quote]

There is a very high possibility i can get this yeast from brewing science. My local brewery/buddy orders through them for all his yeast

2
Beer Recipes / Re: Kolsch Guidance
« on: June 30, 2015, 06:36:49 PM »
So i would assume that finishing hops may be a bit much? thinking just a 60 min addition however my gut is saying a small 15 min addition for a bit of flavor but with such a simple malt bill i am sure i will get some flavor from the 60min addition. so wonder how many of ya actually do finishing hops?

3
Beer Recipes / Re: Kolsh Guidance
« on: June 28, 2015, 05:54:46 PM »
I would be careful using the kolsch malt. It is very dark. In think you are better off using 100% pils malt. I'm not sure how the brewers in Cologne use the Kolsch malt but they must be blending it.

You can add wheat it you want, up to 10%, but it is not really very traditional. There may be a couple breweries that use it.

For me, I target about 22-25 IBUs. If you want to go traditional Hersbrucker is probably your best choice. I actually use Crystal in mine and love how it turns out. Mandarina would make a really interesting finishing hop for a kolsch. I have been planning on experimenting with that.

As far as water I think you want at least 50ppms of Ca - I use calcium chloride. I used to build my water from scratch but have medium hard water at the brewery and no RO system and have been brewing Kolsch this summer for our tasting room and just adjusting with lactic and calcium chloride and it turns out great.

The real key is going to be your yeast. Both the strains from WY and WL are very nice. I have been using the WY strain lately. Both need to be started cold - mid to high 50s and then finished off in the mid 60s. A 2 week lagering period is all you really need but you will probably have to fine or filter the beer to get it to clear. I have left it at 32 degrees for 6 weeks and kolsch yeast is particularly stubborn. I have see wheat beer strains that clear faster. In Kohln it is traditional for them to be filtered after a short "lagering" period.
Subscribing to the thread after reading this post so I can find it again - I have a gut feeling there was some hard earned knowledge dropped free of charge right here.  Thanks Keith. 

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Funny thing is I was hoping "Keith" would chime in because I see his sweet looking kolsch every time he post. Thank you.

4
Beer Recipes / Re: Kolsh Guidance
« on: June 27, 2015, 09:08:00 AM »
Much appreciated gentleman. I'll grow a recipe together soon and have at it. Think I just may try the mandarina although I probably should try a traditional one first.

5
Beer Recipes / Kolsch Guidance
« on: June 26, 2015, 08:38:56 PM »
So really never had this style and am going in blind. Would like some suggestions on recipe and process. I plan on using Schill Kolsh malt and maybe a bit of wheat malt i guess. Maybe OG at 1.046, mash low 148F, mash PH 5.3 ? Bittered to maybe 25 ish IBUs and possibly a small late flavor addition?  I have most german varieties of hops pearl, tet, hal, hersburk, sazz even mandarian Bavarian. Not sure on water/minerals maybe very little like a Euro lager and 100% RO. Or should i push the Ca up a bit (50ish) to aid in yeast floc. planning on Wyeast strain. Any suggestions?

6
Equipment and Software / Re: Grain Crusher Roller Issue
« on: June 21, 2015, 08:47:22 PM »
That's really really strange. Have you adjusted the mill gap at all?  Also wonder if the "hopper" is rubbing on the rollers but that is aluminum I think.


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7
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Rehydrating Dry Yeast Steps
« on: June 21, 2015, 05:53:32 AM »
i boil mine in a glass pyrex measuring cup at the beginning of the brew day in the microwave then cover it and set it out on counter. By the time i am ready to pitch it's at room temp. I have always been a "rehydrater" because most manufactures recommend it but i have done a few side by sides with re-hydrated and dry yeast split batches and cant tell a difference. Of course this has been Safale US 05 only.

8
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Water Test
« on: June 21, 2015, 05:39:52 AM »
Ward labs is great. I live in eastern Idaho and by Bicarbonates only change 50ppm throughout the season. Only way to know is to find another brewer, possible a pro brewer and ask them or to send in your water to ward labs at different times of the year. What does it taste like?

9
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: This sucks!
« on: June 21, 2015, 05:03:14 AM »
I think it failed because I had some yeast get in between the o ring and seal on the faucet.


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10
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: This sucks!
« on: June 21, 2015, 04:43:55 AM »
Ya native Yellowstone  cutthroat. Live in Idaho all the bigger fish on this river have black spot disease but it does not affect there performance. All the hatches are early this year due to warm weather so lots of on top action.

The faucet failed :(


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11
General Homebrew Discussion / This sucks!
« on: June 20, 2015, 08:58:45 PM »
6 years Of brewing and this is a first and hopefully last time this will happen. Pulled a growler of a 6 week old Munich Dunk at 5 am this morning to take on a float/fishing trip. Had a few drips after I poured the growler but it stopped.........or so I thought it did. Came back to this. Entire 5 gal on the floor.
No clue how I am gonna get all this out of the carpet.

On the positive side fishing was awesome.



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12
Ingredients / Re: Grains that you don't crush
« on: June 18, 2015, 06:34:50 AM »
i have always ask myself why i am crushing my flaked grains separately just to break them up.  I guess my thought was that it helps with keeping the grain bed somewhat uniform and aid in lautering but maybe not. Funny the things we do sometimes just because:)

13
Ingredients / Re: Too much Oats???
« on: June 09, 2015, 06:58:54 AM »
i just replaced Oats with the golden naked (8%) in a oatmeal stout. Probably the best grain i have ever had when eating raw. Tasty. 

14
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Keeping Yeast Slurry Long Term
« on: June 07, 2015, 05:01:57 AM »
Much appreciated Mark. It seems all my hobbies are $$$.  Glad there hobbies :)

15
All Grain Brewing / Re: mash pH vs beer color
« on: June 06, 2015, 05:06:55 PM »
I understand a good room temperature mash pH should lie between 5.2-5.5 range.   I also get that lower mash pH ranges benefit lighter colored beers vs. the higher end for darker beers. 

Herein lies my question -
Are there specific mash pH's for specific beer colors or is it more subjective and preferential by finished product taste? 

For example can one assume on a very basic level that
5.2-5.3 is acceptable for ales/lagers that are pale
5.3-5.4 for amber/brown colors
5.4-5.5 for stout/porter colors?

I do feel like its subjective personally. There are so many variables and the only way to truly figure it out is to re brew the beer over and over to determine what ya prefer. In general i have noticed that different strains of yeast have there own "buffering" capacity some better than others but i pretty much get .9 to 1 pt drop in PH from post boil PH reading at room temp.  i like to have my beers that i want to be "crisp" finish around 4.2 and most of my others finish around 4.5 to 4.6 but thats just my preference. i even like my IPAs to finish around 4.5 to 4.6 and most feel different but that what i prefer. make it the way you want it and thats all that matters.


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