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Messages - quattlebaum

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 10 AM
« on: September 27, 2014, 07:10:30 AM »
92% conversion efficiency, 91% mash efficiency!
Do you mind sharing you water to grain ratio for your mash?  My mash efficiency was 72% (14 lbs of two row with 1.050 as a pre-boil OG collecting 7.5 gal wort collected) on my last batch and I am trying to decide what to change first, my mill gap (crush looks ok, but I am an all grain noob) or use a thinner mash (been using 1.250 quarts/lb)... I got the calculation from how to brew ( 37 x grain / volume = points; preboil og/ points = mash eff.)  Am I doing this calculation right?  I am batch sparging in a 70 quart cooler with a toliet braid.

If ya want to go down that "efficiency" road play with this.
 There is a Efficiency troubleshooting spreadsheet under calculating efficiency that will guide ya in the direction.  Personally i use 1.75qt/lb because thats what works best for my system, EHERMS .

Heres another link that may help.

Great website for sure. 

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Unusual amount of blowoff
« on: September 27, 2014, 05:45:54 AM »
Probably smells like thanksgiving in your house:)
I have had this happen on the 3 pumpkin ales i have made. My assumption is that the yeast are working there butt off to break down the brewing sugars from the pumpkin puree itself. Depending on when you added your puree, boil, mash or primary you may also have a lot of pumpkin material that is binding with the rest of the trub and what not to cause this massive krausen. i have found i need to keep my temp low till 75% complete to keep the fusels at bay. bet it will be tasty 

WLP007 is an English yeast not a German yeast.  Just an FYI. ;-)
yes i know WLP007 is an English strain. Maybe i didnt state it clear enough. it seems most "clones" of odells are using an English Strain like 007 however i have read somewhere and a few have said they use a German strain that is a strong top-cropper with medium attenuation and low-medium flocculation. 
I was considering brewing the 90 shilling from "Craft Beer for homebrewers". Maybe ill split a batch and pitch WLP007 and Wyeast 1007 to see which one i prefer or comes close to the original. Thanks fellas 

All Grain Brewing / Re: How many BTUs needed for 5-gal batches
« on: September 11, 2014, 04:52:49 PM »
I do 3 Gal batches often and believe it or not i use my camp chef explorer stove that i have for camping. It only has two burners at 30,000 BTUs each. I do not do brew in the bag though. i can heat 3 gals of strike water at 4800' in a reasonable time. i can bring to boil 5 to 6 gallons in a timely manner. It takes me 3.5 to 4 hrs on brew day if i prep the day before. i am in no hurry though its a hobby and i enjoy it. i use to do 5 gal batches on it and it did take longer but not by much. i would start heating my wort while draining my sparge in a large container. Good luck. 

Yeast and Fermentation / O'dells House yeast & Craft beer for the homebrewer
« on: September 07, 2014, 05:54:14 PM »
Does anyone know if O'dells brewery uses a German Ale yeast for their house yeast.  Just curious i know they are pretty tight lipped about there beers understandably, but yet have reportedly given one of the recipes in the new book, "Craft Beer for the Homebrewer" and the yeast is WLP 007 

Beer Recipes / Oatmeal stout feedback
« on: August 27, 2014, 11:17:54 AM »
Trying to throw an oatmeal stout together. Never brewed one and did a bit of reading and bastardized jamils Zs i think.
Any suggestions. its a 3 gal batch. Think of putting it on nitro. Also considered using pearl as the base malt instead of MO.
Recipe: Oatmeal stout
Brewer: Quattlebaum
Asst Brewer:
Style: Oatmeal Stout
TYPE: All Grain
Taste: (30.0)

Recipe Specifications
Boil Size: 4.90 gal
Post Boil Volume: 3.90 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 3.25 gal   
Bottling Volume: 3.00 gal
Estimated OG: 1.052 SG
Estimated Color: 28.0 SRM
Estimated IBU: 32.0 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 73.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 84.2 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Amt                   Name                                     Type          #        %/IBU         
4 lbs 1.7 oz          Pale Malt, Maris Otter (Thomas Fawcett)  Grain         1        64.5 %       
9.7 oz                Oats, Golden Naked (Simpsons) (10.0 SRM) Grain         2        9.5 %         
8.4 oz                Pale Chocolate Malt  (200.0 SRM)         Grain         3        8.2 %         
7.1 oz                Biscuit Malt (23.0 SRM)                  Grain         4        7.0 %         
5.9 oz                Roasted Barley (Briess) (300.0 SRM)      Grain         5        5.8 %         
5.1 oz                Crystal, Dark (Simpsons) (80.0 SRM)      Grain         6        5.0 %         
1.01 oz               Goldings, East Kent [5.70 %] - Boil 60.0 Hop           7        32.0 IBUs     
1.0 pkg               SafAle English Ale (DCL/Fermentis #S-04) Yeast         8        -             

Mash Schedule: (208) Single Infusion, Medium Body, No Mash Out, Fly
Total Grain Weight: 6 lbs 5.9 oz
Name              Description                             Step Temperat Step Time     
Mash In           Add 2.79 gal of water at 169.2 F        154.0 F       60 min       

Sparge: Fly sparge with 2.88 gal water at 168.0 F

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: I want to brew bigger batches
« on: August 24, 2014, 07:01:40 PM »
The beer is just amazing. I run out too fast..

You must have a lot of thirsty friends.  I went the other way. I brew 3.5-gallon batches that yield 3 gallons of kegged beer.  It takes me four to six weeks to drink that much beer.  I used to brew 5.5-gallon batches that yielded 5 gallons of kegged beer.  Beer would queue up to the point where I would have to dump batches in order to be able to brew.

Same here. I have a fancy 15 Gallon EHerms system that can produce 5 to 10 Gal batches and just have a hard time drinking that much and dump also on occasions (i should be ashamed). Most of mine are 3 Gal also. get through it in 4 to 6 weeks also. Good luck

    82Qt SS Pot. my 62Qt works great for 10gallons on my system

This is a link to mine to possibly give ya some ideas.

Equipment and Software / Homebrew Compatition Coordination Program?
« on: August 13, 2014, 07:05:45 PM »
Does anyone know of a program besides the ones on the BJCP page that one can use to organize a homebrew comp that may be Mac compatible?

Ingredients / Re: Storage of Grain
« on: August 12, 2014, 03:20:10 PM »
Rubbermaid cereal container for specialty malts and Gamma lid buckets from walmart for base malts. No problems love them

All Grain Brewing / Re: Hop Aroma In The Final Product
« on: August 11, 2014, 08:54:47 PM »
In regards to the whirlpool.... I added my hops at flameout and let them steep for 50 mins.  I've read where the hops should go in at lower temps (around 170 degrees) before steeping.  Is there a specific temp to add for aroma?  Will adding at flameout increase bitterness instead of aroma?

Isomerization of hop alpha acids will occur at temps above 185F so yes you will get bitterness. i depend on software to get me somewhat there. Once the temps goes below 185F i think there are just different characteristics that come out of the hops Such as the essential oils such as myrcene, humulene and caryophyllene which could contribute more the aroma.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Hop Aroma In The Final Product
« on: August 11, 2014, 08:22:56 PM »
i have found a few things that has helped.

Lots of late hops, fresh hops, low cohumulone, low bicarbonate water and higher gravity like greater than 1.055 which can hide some of the byproducts of large amounts of hops.  Also a simple grain bill and clean yeast. Some say a crap ton of dry but i think it gives to much of a grassy/green flavor. i also whirlpool i really really like the characteristic this gives. 

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mashing Questions (time & pH)
« on: August 02, 2014, 07:44:18 PM »
I have found if my Mash PH is to low and my yeast does not buffer the drop in PH well the finial beer will be a bit dull and less bitter especially for an APA and IPA (4.0 to 4.2 = dull in my eyes, 4.5 to 4.6 seems money in my opinion for APAs and IPAs) .  Would be interesting to see what your finial beer PH will be and your thoughts on the perceived bitterness. 

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Water
« on: August 02, 2014, 07:01:35 AM »
Idaho Falls Water (Fall water supply)
Ca  66ppm
Mg  20ppm
Na  24ppm
Sulfate  39ppm
Chloride  14ppm
Bicarb  307ppm
Total Hardness 247ppm
Alkalinity  254ppm

I have sampled my water throughout the year at different times with very little variance.
My bicarb/alkalinity sucks so i cut with store bought RO at $2 for 5 gal for most beers.
Use 88% lactic to adjust mash to desired PH with respect to the grist. acidify sparge if needed with 88% lactic.
I defiantly use water software (brunwater), its a must.
Adjust ion concentration as desired for style
Monitor PH with 2 pt calibrated meter of mash, sparge, pre boil, post boil and finial beer PH

All Grain Brewing / Re: Low PH and Dull flavor with Brown?
« on: July 26, 2014, 05:31:41 PM »
I do the same. Great idea on the TDS meter never even thought of that. Being my HC03 is always so high i always cut my water with RO. I normally dont for my darker beers and have always been in the range/5.5ish however i have never made this recipe with this grain bill. just started my boil with a 5.4 PH and am using WLP007 and i know this yeast does not buffer that well so i am predicting that i will have a low finial PH also, i hope not but it may push low 4's

All Grain Brewing / Re: Low PH and Dull flavor with Brown?
« on: July 26, 2014, 04:50:22 PM »
A Milwaukee 101 meter at room temp 77F, calibrated every other batch with a 2 point solution. My solution is a year old and i have been wondering if i should replace it.  I use brunwater and am most of the time within a tenth of a point of what it predicts. i will re post with tasting results

i will hope that with only 2% truly roasty/Cholo malt that it will not be as acrid

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