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Messages - quattlebaum

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All Grain Brewing / Re: Decreased efficiency observations?
« on: November 29, 2014, 07:12:59 AM »
Brewhouse efficiency I suppose just because it seems my mash/conversion is fairly good 1.070 at 1.75qts/lb?  I have not verified my volumes all the way to packaging. I'll need to think about that a bit not quite sure how that plays a role.

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All Grain Brewing / Decreased efficiency observations?
« on: November 29, 2014, 06:57:10 AM »
Sweet! Thanks for the PH info always wondered how much it could effect conversion.

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All Grain Brewing / Decreased efficiency observations?
« on: November 29, 2014, 06:25:16 AM »

So over the past year I have noticed a "progressive" drop in my efficiency from 85% to 73% on both my systems ( EHERMS and 3 gal batch sparge/cooler). I can only assume that it is my crush because it is across 2 systems. I have a barley crusher for the past 4 years and have insured consistency with process and mill gap (.039). All other variables are "controlled" including water to grist at 1.75qt/lb, temp, time, mash schedule ( single infusion mostly), I mash out, I insure no dough balls and keep PH in a good range (I don't think this has a big influence on efficiency?). My first runnings are normally around 1.070ish seems conversion efficiency is good?  Sorry so long it is just stumping me and I do have consistent efficiency and don't really mind it being low but thought I would see what you guys/gals thought?

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Equipment and Software / Re: All Grain Equipment Information
« on: November 27, 2014, 11:49:25 AM »

Buy all means I love my EHERMS but it sucks cleaning it. I've gotta run caustic/acid or PBW through it every 3 rd batch or so. It was fun making it but in the end I really enjoy waxing nostalgia with my simple cooler, batch sparge, camp chef 3 gal way of brewing. Check out high gravity brewing the have some fun stuff. 

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Ingredients / Re: Cal Common Water suggestion?
« on: November 25, 2014, 05:21:19 PM »
sweet thanks havent made this style before so much appreciated. 

Ingredients / Cal Common Water suggestion?
« on: November 25, 2014, 05:11:47 PM »
Anybody ever played with the water profile on a Cal common. I was pondering which way to push it. Chloride/rounded or Sulfate/dry.  I was leaning towards a dusseldorf alt type water but am kinda craving a little bit more malt/rounded. any suggestions ?

Same issue in my part of the world, Idaho Falls Idaho. I will occasionally run a hose out from my kitchen sink to the garage:) I bring the hose in a day or 2 before and put it in the tub. Kinda messy but hey all in the name of brewing.  The winter is the only time i slow down on brewing mainly because its just to damn cold. Woke up to -4 in my garage last week. 
Funny thing is i attempted to brew on that day with running the hose from the outside and when i straightened it out it blew up in my garage ! crazzzzzzy froze instantly

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Decanting yeast starters?
« on: November 22, 2014, 01:54:13 PM »
I'm a Decanter also:)

Ingredients / Re: Brown Malt
« on: November 22, 2014, 06:15:07 AM »
Perhaps they got a bad bag?


I agree. However, the fact that that special Founders brown porter that I had about 6 months ago at a tasting event suggests that it may be more than just a bag. That Founders porter has the same smokey character as my beer does. It was good...just unexpected.

I know this is an older post but to comment on the "smokey" aroma/Flavor. I made a recent Porter with 13% Bairds Brown malt 60L and i did not get the smokiness either however my home brew club did. I get more roast/toffee Carmel flavor as "beersk" gets could be the 9% dark Crystal/80L though. By no means do i get the phenolic/smokiness out of this.  interesting thats for sure and i like it and so did my club 

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Evaporation and preboil gravity readings
« on: November 22, 2014, 05:41:48 AM »
I wish i could say i use my refractometer but it just collects dust. It was just to inconsistent for me. On the evaporation observation mine varies batch to batch i believe its related to relative Humidity in my region ( or at least i think thats what it is). I havent charted it per say in that relation but it sure seems that way.  I just take a cooled hydrometer reading every 15 min and adjust my boil as needed to get my FG.  Works pretty much every time.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Question regarding water
« on: November 18, 2014, 08:51:11 PM »
This is some of the results that my buddy posted on another forum.

All PH readings made at 77F or 25C on decarbed beer (Milwaukee MW 101 PH meter)
All FG readings made between 60F and 65F (This is not a precision hydrometer)

Ballast Point Dorado PH 4.63 FG 1.008 10%
Stone IPA 4.56 1.010 6.9%
Ballast Point Sculpin 4.65 1.009 7%
Snake River Pako's IPA 4.85 1.010 6.8%
Odell's IPA 4.7 1.012 7%
Caldera IPA 4.56 1.010 6.1%
Ska Modus Hoperandi 4.54 1.013 6.8%
Bear Republic Racer 5 4.5 1.014 7.5%
Deschutes Red Chair 4.4 1.016 6.2%
Green Flash West Coast IPA 4.66 1.010 7.3%
Anderson Valley Hop Ottin IPA 4.56 1.009 7%

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Question regarding water
« on: November 18, 2014, 08:39:39 PM »
I tend to shoot for boil PH of 5.4 to 5.6 for my IPA and APAs and thats to high as per most say on this forum but that just seems to make these styles POP to me. Pop i mean as in my finial beer PH is around 4.4 to 4.6. I know thats to high but that is the sweet spot for me. Even more interesting is that many of the commercial beers i/buddy have tested are in that range. I know but they have been tested many times with calibration and decarbed and all and they all finish higher than many recommend. Breweries such as teton, snake river and many others out here in the northwest. Go figure

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Question regarding water
« on: November 18, 2014, 07:15:11 PM »
assuming that get's your pH where you need it it sound fine.

When I do a marzen I add some gypsum (Can't remember the actual amounts) becuase I think that a dry, crisp finish is ideal for those styles. Plenty of munich malt will get you the malty character you want but the sulfate will help with the crisp finish. FWIW

Can the gypsum be added to the boil, therefore adding the sulfate (after the mash) but not changing the mash ions or ph?

well so if you add it to the boil, you cant impact the mash PH because that's done and over with. it will change wort PH and will add the sulfates as mentioned.

everything you put in or take out of the mash impacts the mash -so keep that in mind when building your water profile for the mash.

The Ca drops the mash pH due to reactions with the Phytin in the malt, which releases a H+ ion which by definition drops the pH. I have never measured the boil pH when I add gypsum, any data that it drops the pH? I am curious, is all.

I have not and could be completely wrong in that presumption that it plays any role alone or in conjunction in lowering PH . I've added calcium chloride and gypsum in boil and only taken PH to make sure I'm somewhere in the optimal range for hot break. 

Something I read:
Wort pH will fall from 5.6–5.8 at the start of boiling to around 5.2–5.4 at the end. This is primarily due to the precipitation of calcium phosphate. Calcium ions in brewing water reacts with phosphates from the malt to form calcium phospate and hydrogen ions, which lower wort pH.

This demonstrates the importance of excess calcium ions in the wort after mashing. For this reason, it is sometimes a good idea to add gypsum to the kettle. If your mash pH is fine, but the pH does not drop to at least 5.4 by the end of the boil, add 1/4–1/2 teaspoon of gypsum per five gallons. 

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Thanks, good information. I need to check kettle pH more often.

i think that the PH values referenced are a little off- seems most think hot break happens best at 5.2., and i target 5-5.2

I have noticed that when my " pre-boil" PH is 5.4 i get really fast hot break. Whats really cool is that if my pre boil PH is .2 highter my hot break is not a fast. I consistently measure my PH of the Mash, Pre-boil, post boil and post fermentation. Also i have noticed that my PH from pre to post boil only falls .2 of a points.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Question regarding water
« on: November 18, 2014, 06:56:39 PM »
Correct me if im wrong but doesn't the malts have enough mg that there is no need to add any?

  Always track pH and you will have decent beer, I am just trying to get to where some of these guys are at, which is consistently exceptional beers.  Time and patience, repetition and controlled environment, ingredients and yeast pitch are the keys for me.
1+ Well said

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Great Day
« on: November 15, 2014, 08:09:45 PM »
Even though i woke to 0 degrees in my non insulated garage in beautiful idaho falls i brewed on for some unknown reason:) Brewing in this type of weather outdoors is not always a good idea for many reasons but we do what we must. After taking my hose out of my tub ( which i had to put it inside the night before for obvious reasons) and hooking up to chill i quickly straightened out the hose while the water was turned on and it exploded all over me and my garage. pretty much turned to ice immediately all over the floor and equipment:) It was nice and sunny though but good hell to cold to brew outside.

FLbrewer wish i was there. I am from WinterHaven FL miss the beach/surfing

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