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Messages - quattlebaum

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31
Beer Recipes / Re: Kolsh Guidance
« on: June 27, 2015, 09:08:00 AM »
Much appreciated gentleman. I'll grow a recipe together soon and have at it. Think I just may try the mandarina although I probably should try a traditional one first.

32
Beer Recipes / Kolsch Guidance
« on: June 26, 2015, 08:38:56 PM »
So really never had this style and am going in blind. Would like some suggestions on recipe and process. I plan on using Schill Kolsh malt and maybe a bit of wheat malt i guess. Maybe OG at 1.046, mash low 148F, mash PH 5.3 ? Bittered to maybe 25 ish IBUs and possibly a small late flavor addition?  I have most german varieties of hops pearl, tet, hal, hersburk, sazz even mandarian Bavarian. Not sure on water/minerals maybe very little like a Euro lager and 100% RO. Or should i push the Ca up a bit (50ish) to aid in yeast floc. planning on Wyeast strain. Any suggestions?

33
Equipment and Software / Re: Grain Crusher Roller Issue
« on: June 21, 2015, 08:47:22 PM »
That's really really strange. Have you adjusted the mill gap at all?  Also wonder if the "hopper" is rubbing on the rollers but that is aluminum I think.


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34
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Rehydrating Dry Yeast Steps
« on: June 21, 2015, 05:53:32 AM »
i boil mine in a glass pyrex measuring cup at the beginning of the brew day in the microwave then cover it and set it out on counter. By the time i am ready to pitch it's at room temp. I have always been a "rehydrater" because most manufactures recommend it but i have done a few side by sides with re-hydrated and dry yeast split batches and cant tell a difference. Of course this has been Safale US 05 only.

35
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Water Test
« on: June 21, 2015, 05:39:52 AM »
Ward labs is great. I live in eastern Idaho and by Bicarbonates only change 50ppm throughout the season. Only way to know is to find another brewer, possible a pro brewer and ask them or to send in your water to ward labs at different times of the year. What does it taste like?

36
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: This sucks!
« on: June 21, 2015, 05:03:14 AM »
I think it failed because I had some yeast get in between the o ring and seal on the faucet.


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37
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: This sucks!
« on: June 21, 2015, 04:43:55 AM »
Ya native Yellowstone  cutthroat. Live in Idaho all the bigger fish on this river have black spot disease but it does not affect there performance. All the hatches are early this year due to warm weather so lots of on top action.

The faucet failed :(


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38
General Homebrew Discussion / This sucks!
« on: June 20, 2015, 08:58:45 PM »
6 years Of brewing and this is a first and hopefully last time this will happen. Pulled a growler of a 6 week old Munich Dunk at 5 am this morning to take on a float/fishing trip. Had a few drips after I poured the growler but it stopped.........or so I thought it did. Came back to this. Entire 5 gal on the floor.
No clue how I am gonna get all this out of the carpet.

On the positive side fishing was awesome.



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39
Ingredients / Re: Grains that you don't crush
« on: June 18, 2015, 06:34:50 AM »
i have always ask myself why i am crushing my flaked grains separately just to break them up.  I guess my thought was that it helps with keeping the grain bed somewhat uniform and aid in lautering but maybe not. Funny the things we do sometimes just because:)

40
Ingredients / Re: Too much Oats???
« on: June 09, 2015, 06:58:54 AM »
i just replaced Oats with the golden naked (8%) in a oatmeal stout. Probably the best grain i have ever had when eating raw. Tasty. 

41
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Keeping Yeast Slurry Long Term
« on: June 07, 2015, 05:01:57 AM »
Much appreciated Mark. It seems all my hobbies are $$$.  Glad there hobbies :)

42
All Grain Brewing / Re: mash pH vs beer color
« on: June 06, 2015, 05:06:55 PM »
I understand a good room temperature mash pH should lie between 5.2-5.5 range.   I also get that lower mash pH ranges benefit lighter colored beers vs. the higher end for darker beers. 

Herein lies my question -
Are there specific mash pH's for specific beer colors or is it more subjective and preferential by finished product taste? 

For example can one assume on a very basic level that
5.2-5.3 is acceptable for ales/lagers that are pale
5.3-5.4 for amber/brown colors
5.4-5.5 for stout/porter colors?

I do feel like its subjective personally. There are so many variables and the only way to truly figure it out is to re brew the beer over and over to determine what ya prefer. In general i have noticed that different strains of yeast have there own "buffering" capacity some better than others but i pretty much get .9 to 1 pt drop in PH from post boil PH reading at room temp.  i like to have my beers that i want to be "crisp" finish around 4.2 and most of my others finish around 4.5 to 4.6 but thats just my preference. i even like my IPAs to finish around 4.5 to 4.6 and most feel different but that what i prefer. make it the way you want it and thats all that matters.


43
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Keeping Yeast Slurry Long Term
« on: June 06, 2015, 04:22:16 PM »
Do you have any suggestions on where i/WE can get Media bottles for a reasonable $. It seems that i can only ever find bulk cases for $$$.

If you find a cheap source for media bottles, please let me know.  I believe that I paid close to $100.00 for ten 100ml media bottles with shipping.  I paid $80.00 for my 5L media bottle, and it was NOS surplus.  I would avoid purchasing used media bottles because one does not know what was previously stored in the bottle.

I used 4oz baby food jars for my first-level starters for a very long time.  The liner on a baby food jar will withstand being processed in a pressure cooker for 15 minutes.  It's just a pain in the backside to get the lids to vacuum seal after removing them from a pressure cooker.  The threads are formed in the rubber liner when the jar and lid cools.  The liner returns to its original state when pressure cooked, which means that one has to keep screwing the lid down periodically while the jar and its contents are cooling to ensure that the jar vacuum seals.

With that said, there are a couple of companies that manufacture aftermarket replacement lids for baby food jars.  Baby food jars are used in plant tissue culture. 

These caps are made of polypropylene; therefore, they will hold up to autoclaving.  You need to make sure that you order the non-vented caps.

http://phytotechlab.com/index.php/equipment/culture-vessels/culture-vessel-closures/jar-closures/closure-i-phyto-i-cap-trade-baby-food-jar-closure.html
What's your thoughts on the nalgene square Lexan bottles for media 4oz?  I know Pyrex is the way to go but these are plentiful in my are for cheep.

44
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Keeping Yeast Slurry Long Term
« on: June 06, 2015, 05:36:38 AM »
how much wort? 1 litre? This seems sound.

I use 1 liter of 10% w/v (1.040) wort and my "shaken, not stirred" technique with a 5L media bottle; however, a 1-gallon glass jug will work.

Note: For those who live in the UK, a 1-gallon American jug is what you refer to as a 1-gallon demijohn.  A British jug is called a "pitcher" in the U.S.

Do you have any suggestions on where i/WE can get Media bottles for a reasonable $. It seems that i can only ever find bulk cases for $$$. 

45
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Switching to O2
« on: June 06, 2015, 05:26:13 AM »
You want the bubbles to come out almost as slow as possible.  If it's bubbling out the top of the wort, then it's not going into solution.

I run mine for around 60 seconds or so.  I don't really time it. Bigger beers, I run longer than smaller beers.

My understanding is that it is extremely hard to over-oxygenate.

+1

I also keep 5 gal star san around and start and finish the process in the starsan to insure i done leave or clog the stone with wort. They are really hard to clean if ya get wort in them.

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