Much appreciated gentleman. I'll grow a recipe together soon and have at it. Think I just may try the mandarina although I probably should try a traditional one first.
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I understand a good room temperature mash pH should lie between 5.2-5.5 range. I also get that lower mash pH ranges benefit lighter colored beers vs. the higher end for darker beers.
Herein lies my question -
Are there specific mash pH's for specific beer colors or is it more subjective and preferential by finished product taste?
For example can one assume on a very basic level that
5.2-5.3 is acceptable for ales/lagers that are pale
5.3-5.4 for amber/brown colors
5.4-5.5 for stout/porter colors?
I do feel like its subjective personally. There are so many variables and the only way to truly figure it out is to re brew the beer over and over to determine what ya prefer. In general i have noticed that different strains of yeast have there own "buffering" capacity some better than others but i pretty much get .9 to 1 pt drop in PH from post boil PH reading at room temp. i like to have my beers that i want to be "crisp" finish around 4.2 and most of my others finish around 4.5 to 4.6 but thats just my preference. i even like my IPAs to finish around 4.5 to 4.6 and most feel different but that what i prefer. make it the way you want it and thats all that matters.
What's your thoughts on the nalgene square Lexan bottles for media 4oz? I know Pyrex is the way to go but these are plentiful in my are for cheep.Do you have any suggestions on where i/WE can get Media bottles for a reasonable $. It seems that i can only ever find bulk cases for $$$.
If you find a cheap source for media bottles, please let me know. I believe that I paid close to $100.00 for ten 100ml media bottles with shipping. I paid $80.00 for my 5L media bottle, and it was NOS surplus. I would avoid purchasing used media bottles because one does not know what was previously stored in the bottle.
I used 4oz baby food jars for my first-level starters for a very long time. The liner on a baby food jar will withstand being processed in a pressure cooker for 15 minutes. It's just a pain in the backside to get the lids to vacuum seal after removing them from a pressure cooker. The threads are formed in the rubber liner when the jar and lid cools. The liner returns to its original state when pressure cooked, which means that one has to keep screwing the lid down periodically while the jar and its contents are cooling to ensure that the jar vacuum seals.
With that said, there are a couple of companies that manufacture aftermarket replacement lids for baby food jars. Baby food jars are used in plant tissue culture.
These caps are made of polypropylene; therefore, they will hold up to autoclaving. You need to make sure that you order the non-vented caps.
how much wort? 1 litre? This seems sound.
I use 1 liter of 10% w/v (1.040) wort and my "shaken, not stirred" technique with a 5L media bottle; however, a 1-gallon glass jug will work.
Note: For those who live in the UK, a 1-gallon American jug is what you refer to as a 1-gallon demijohn. A British jug is called a "pitcher" in the U.S.
You want the bubbles to come out almost as slow as possible. If it's bubbling out the top of the wort, then it's not going into solution.
I run mine for around 60 seconds or so. I don't really time it. Bigger beers, I run longer than smaller beers.
My understanding is that it is extremely hard to over-oxygenate.