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Messages - quattlebaum

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Keeping Yeast Slurry Long Term
« on: June 07, 2015, 05:01:57 AM »
Much appreciated Mark. It seems all my hobbies are $$$.  Glad there hobbies :)

All Grain Brewing / Re: mash pH vs beer color
« on: June 06, 2015, 05:06:55 PM »
I understand a good room temperature mash pH should lie between 5.2-5.5 range.   I also get that lower mash pH ranges benefit lighter colored beers vs. the higher end for darker beers. 

Herein lies my question -
Are there specific mash pH's for specific beer colors or is it more subjective and preferential by finished product taste? 

For example can one assume on a very basic level that
5.2-5.3 is acceptable for ales/lagers that are pale
5.3-5.4 for amber/brown colors
5.4-5.5 for stout/porter colors?

I do feel like its subjective personally. There are so many variables and the only way to truly figure it out is to re brew the beer over and over to determine what ya prefer. In general i have noticed that different strains of yeast have there own "buffering" capacity some better than others but i pretty much get .9 to 1 pt drop in PH from post boil PH reading at room temp.  i like to have my beers that i want to be "crisp" finish around 4.2 and most of my others finish around 4.5 to 4.6 but thats just my preference. i even like my IPAs to finish around 4.5 to 4.6 and most feel different but that what i prefer. make it the way you want it and thats all that matters.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Keeping Yeast Slurry Long Term
« on: June 06, 2015, 04:22:16 PM »
Do you have any suggestions on where i/WE can get Media bottles for a reasonable $. It seems that i can only ever find bulk cases for $$$.

If you find a cheap source for media bottles, please let me know.  I believe that I paid close to $100.00 for ten 100ml media bottles with shipping.  I paid $80.00 for my 5L media bottle, and it was NOS surplus.  I would avoid purchasing used media bottles because one does not know what was previously stored in the bottle.

I used 4oz baby food jars for my first-level starters for a very long time.  The liner on a baby food jar will withstand being processed in a pressure cooker for 15 minutes.  It's just a pain in the backside to get the lids to vacuum seal after removing them from a pressure cooker.  The threads are formed in the rubber liner when the jar and lid cools.  The liner returns to its original state when pressure cooked, which means that one has to keep screwing the lid down periodically while the jar and its contents are cooling to ensure that the jar vacuum seals.

With that said, there are a couple of companies that manufacture aftermarket replacement lids for baby food jars.  Baby food jars are used in plant tissue culture. 

These caps are made of polypropylene; therefore, they will hold up to autoclaving.  You need to make sure that you order the non-vented caps.
What's your thoughts on the nalgene square Lexan bottles for media 4oz?  I know Pyrex is the way to go but these are plentiful in my are for cheep.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Keeping Yeast Slurry Long Term
« on: June 06, 2015, 05:36:38 AM »
how much wort? 1 litre? This seems sound.

I use 1 liter of 10% w/v (1.040) wort and my "shaken, not stirred" technique with a 5L media bottle; however, a 1-gallon glass jug will work.

Note: For those who live in the UK, a 1-gallon American jug is what you refer to as a 1-gallon demijohn.  A British jug is called a "pitcher" in the U.S.

Do you have any suggestions on where i/WE can get Media bottles for a reasonable $. It seems that i can only ever find bulk cases for $$$. 

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Switching to O2
« on: June 06, 2015, 05:26:13 AM »
You want the bubbles to come out almost as slow as possible.  If it's bubbling out the top of the wort, then it's not going into solution.

I run mine for around 60 seconds or so.  I don't really time it. Bigger beers, I run longer than smaller beers.

My understanding is that it is extremely hard to over-oxygenate.


I also keep 5 gal star san around and start and finish the process in the starsan to insure i done leave or clog the stone with wort. They are really hard to clean if ya get wort in them.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Cold Crashing (keg vs fermenter)
« on: May 18, 2015, 08:13:06 PM »
i crash in the fermentor  for a few days at 30F also then transfer to keg. +1 for not crashing in a better bottle or any other pliable fermentor it will implode. Well it did on me once never again.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Vermont IPA Yeast, what next?
« on: May 18, 2015, 07:58:52 PM »
Why not another IPA? :) trust me this will make your tongue slap your brains out.

Style: American IPA
TYPE: All Grain
Taste: (30.0)

Recipe Specifications
Boil Size: 5.42 gal
Post Boil Volume: 4.42 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 3.75 gal   
Bottling Volume: 3.50 gal
Estimated OG: 1.060 SG
Estimated Color: 3.8 SRM
Estimated IBU: 67.8 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 73.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 82.7 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Amt                   Name                                     Type          #        %/IBU         
6 lbs 10.4 oz         Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)           Grain         1        79.7 %       
13.5 oz               Oats, Flaked (Briess) (1.4 SRM)          Grain         2        10.1 %       
13.5 oz               White Wheat Malt (2.4 SRM)               Grain         3        10.1 %       
0.20 oz               Columbus (Tomahawk) [15.20 %] - First Wo Hop           4        15.3 IBUs     
0.94 oz               Amarillo Gold [8.00 %] - Boil 5.0 min    Hop           5        6.9 IBUs     
0.94 oz               Citra [14.50 %] - Boil 5.0 min           Hop           6        12.4 IBUs     
1.00 oz               Amarillo Gold [8.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool Hop           7        14.1 IBUs     
0.75 oz               Citra [14.50 %] - Steep/Whirlpool  30.0  Hop           8        19.1 IBUs     
1.0 pkg               Vermont IPA (GigaYeast #Gy054)           Yeast         9        -             
1.50 oz               Amarillo Gold [8.00 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Day Hop           10       0.0 IBUs     
1.50 oz               Citra [14.50 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days       Hop           11       0.0 IBUs     
0.50 oz               Simcoe [12.20 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days      Hop           12       0.0 IBUs     

Mash Schedule: (208) Single Infusion, Medium Body, No Mash Out, Fly
Total Grain Weight: 8 lbs 5.5 oz
Name              Description                             Step Temperat Step Time     
Mash In           Add 3.65 gal of water at 162.1 F        150.0 F       60 min       

Sparge: Fly sparge with 2.77 gal water at 168.0 F
 WP x 30min

Created with BeerSmith 2 -

Yeast and Fermentation / Lager Yeast Viability ?
« on: May 18, 2015, 07:53:38 PM »
Do ya think that the viability of the yeast decreases significantly when the lager is set at higher temps for a a "diactyl rest" while left on the yeast cake? Say like 64 F for a week? Planning on brewing a Rye bock (1.060 OG)from a 2 week old lager yeast ( WLP833) that has been sitting at 64F for 7 days.

Beer Recipes / Session Czech lager
« on: May 14, 2015, 04:31:57 PM »
I read an article recently in one of "the mags" on such a lager and found it interesting. I needed to step some yeast, WLP 833 for a Munich Dunk and thought I would through a recipe together. It is surprising tasty. Kinda between a Munich helles and a Czech pils.  Think I would drop the Carared next time to see the difference.
OG 1.041
FG 1.010
83% German pils
7% Vienna
5% Carared
5% white wheat

German tradition 17.7 Ibus at 60min
Sazz 5.4 Ibus at 30 min
Sazz 3.8 Ibus at 10 min
Sazz 2 Ibus WP x 10 min.

Mashed at 154F
Boil 90min.
WLP 833 bock yeast.
O and I am impatient drinking at 3 weeks:) no probs with low gravity and good fermentation.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Jocky box?
« on: April 25, 2015, 04:46:28 AM »
Alright so the wife surprised me and looks like we are buying a pre built one from AIH anyone have tips or advice when using it at an indoor event.

1. test it out at home in advance of the event... it will save you time and major disaster of something going wrong when setting up for the event.
2. they are notorious for lots of foamy pours, try to get the pressure right on your tank, around 15-18 psi should help keep the foam down if still foamy increase pressure slowly.
3. hook up all the beer etc... and put the ice in LAST! also only put in enough ice to chill the beer you don't want a ton of ice sitting on the coils and the beer resting in the coils or plate and getting "super chilled" which will cause even more foam and maybe even freeze the line.
4. clean it immediately after using it using beer line cleaner and sanitizer... otherwise you're looking at a germ fest!

have fun!

Going Pro / Re: Well, this happened.....
« on: April 21, 2015, 06:36:18 PM »
Congrats! love me some Watershed:) first attempt at brewing that baby a few months ago from the "craft beer for the homebrewer" have some tweaking to do used carared instead of cararuby. that malt must make a difference.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Kegs and CO2 Tanks
« on: April 19, 2015, 03:53:58 PM »
Co2 tank bought at local medical supply establishment (norco). It's SS. didnt need a fancy aluminum one. I just swap it out when empty. They can also put together a reasonable co2 regulator for ya if ya tell them what ya want. Kegs bought used locally. Bought some new 2 1/2 and 3 gal ones from northern brewer and Williams brewing.

Ingredients / Re: Vienna Water?
« on: April 13, 2015, 06:39:18 PM »
Profiles (ppm)Finished   
Ca       56
Mg      12
Na      17
SO4      46
Cl      23
HCO3   39   NA
SO4/Cl Ratio   1.9
 Thanks fellas this is what i ended up with. I was thinking that uping the sulfate a bit would help dry it out a bit with all the munich and cara malt
it was the devils backbone clone. 38% pils, 38% vienna, 12% Munich 15L and 12% caraamber.  1.050 OG 20ibus. 

Ingredients / Vienna Water?
« on: April 11, 2015, 03:16:36 AM »
Thinking of a Vienna today and was pondering a water profile. I was surprised to see in bru n water that the vienna (boiled) was so high in sulfate. Whats your preference on water profile for a vienna and why? 

Ingredients / Re: Malt Analysis?
« on: April 08, 2015, 06:22:06 AM »
Much appreciated! By all means looks like i have some learning to do myself just not at that level yet but here i am thrown into a situation to learn. Glad hes not depending on me for the finial say. Just wants to know what i think. He already has more batches he has with another analysis so lots of free grain but i would like to learn and maybe give him some constructive feedback. He does know that he has some issues and is working on them. i will be going out to his farm soon to check out his set up. Thanks again

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