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Messages - quattlebaum

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Jocky box?
« on: April 25, 2015, 04:46:28 AM »
Alright so the wife surprised me and looks like we are buying a pre built one from AIH anyone have tips or advice when using it at an indoor event.

1. test it out at home in advance of the event... it will save you time and major disaster of something going wrong when setting up for the event.
2. they are notorious for lots of foamy pours, try to get the pressure right on your tank, around 15-18 psi should help keep the foam down if still foamy increase pressure slowly.
3. hook up all the beer etc... and put the ice in LAST! also only put in enough ice to chill the beer you don't want a ton of ice sitting on the coils and the beer resting in the coils or plate and getting "super chilled" which will cause even more foam and maybe even freeze the line.
4. clean it immediately after using it using beer line cleaner and sanitizer... otherwise you're looking at a germ fest!

have fun!

Going Pro / Re: Well, this happened.....
« on: April 21, 2015, 06:36:18 PM »
Congrats! love me some Watershed:) first attempt at brewing that baby a few months ago from the "craft beer for the homebrewer" have some tweaking to do used carared instead of cararuby. that malt must make a difference.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Kegs and CO2 Tanks
« on: April 19, 2015, 03:53:58 PM »
Co2 tank bought at local medical supply establishment (norco). It's SS. didnt need a fancy aluminum one. I just swap it out when empty. They can also put together a reasonable co2 regulator for ya if ya tell them what ya want. Kegs bought used locally. Bought some new 2 1/2 and 3 gal ones from northern brewer and Williams brewing.

Ingredients / Re: Vienna Water?
« on: April 13, 2015, 06:39:18 PM »
Profiles (ppm)Finished   
Ca       56
Mg      12
Na      17
SO4      46
Cl      23
HCO3   39   NA
SO4/Cl Ratio   1.9
 Thanks fellas this is what i ended up with. I was thinking that uping the sulfate a bit would help dry it out a bit with all the munich and cara malt
it was the devils backbone clone. 38% pils, 38% vienna, 12% Munich 15L and 12% caraamber.  1.050 OG 20ibus. 

Ingredients / Vienna Water?
« on: April 11, 2015, 03:16:36 AM »
Thinking of a Vienna today and was pondering a water profile. I was surprised to see in bru n water that the vienna (boiled) was so high in sulfate. Whats your preference on water profile for a vienna and why? 

Ingredients / Re: Malt Analysis?
« on: April 08, 2015, 06:22:06 AM »
Much appreciated! By all means looks like i have some learning to do myself just not at that level yet but here i am thrown into a situation to learn. Glad hes not depending on me for the finial say. Just wants to know what i think. He already has more batches he has with another analysis so lots of free grain but i would like to learn and maybe give him some constructive feedback. He does know that he has some issues and is working on them. i will be going out to his farm soon to check out his set up. Thanks again

Ingredients / Malt Analysis?
« on: April 07, 2015, 09:02:00 PM »
Forgive me for such a long post. You guys are great and i value your opinions.  I have been asked by a local, new small malt house to give him some feedback on his small "craft malting house". He grows and malts his own. He has been approaching a few breweries in the area and would like to eventually sale his product to them. He is trying to refine his product for the local "craft" industry. i could use some feedback on the malt analysis sheet he provided so that i can determine the best process to evaluate the malt/beer in the end. This is my understanding of each. Any suggestions or corrections?

Friability (79.4): it’s the measure of a malt’s readiness to crumble when subjected to crushing.  Should be at least 80%. For infusion mashing should be at least 85%.
So if this is low it could have an impact on conversion?  So if this malt is 79% it may benefit from a step mash?

F/C Diff (1.5):  Fine Grind and Course Grind difference.  Not that important in the brewhouse? Basically anything lower than 1.5 indicates a well modified malt. Not worried about this in this malt.

Turb (NTU) (50): Caused by proteins and beta glucans that have not been sufficiently degraded, this attribute has relatively little impact on the brewing process but can contribute haze to the finished beer.  Anything >15 NTU haze will be evident.  So haze will definitely be a problem in this malt with a 50!  What are some suggestions on “processes” that may help with this, finings (whirlfloc)?

Beta Glucan  (304): High beta glucan levels have long been associated with lautering difficulties, due to the effect they have on mash viscosity. Viscosity is a more practical indicator of how a malt will effect brewhouse performance.  Should be <180 for trouble free runoff.  Don’t have the viscosity info. This seems really high! I  may have problems with lautering?

Total Malt Protein ( 10.2): Total protein is reported separately on a Malt Analysis because it impacts brewhouse performance. It varies for 2-row and 6-row varieties, with high protein barley potentially causing reduced extract yield and higher color. Total protein values for all malts are typically <14%. So this seems OK?

Soluble malt Protein (5.53): Cant get a good understanding on this one.  Is it important?

S/T (54.2): S/T Ratios are used often in malting as guidelines to determine the extent of modification. A minimum S/T of 30 is required to prevent lautering issues with malt. The higher the number, the more highly modified the malt. Malts destined for infusion mashing should have an S/T of 36-42%, or up to 45% for light-bodied beer. At a percentage much over 45% S/T, the beer will be thin in body and mouthfeel. For traditional lager malts, 30-33% indicates undermodification, and 37-40% indicates overmodification.  So defiantly highly modified malt? So beer could be thin and could possibly benefit from dextrin malts to add body? 

FAN (243): FAN is another analysis that can indicate the amount of free amino groups available to yeast during fermentation.  This analysis is only performed on Base Malts. It has no significance in specialty malts. A standard FAN value for most base malts is 180ppm and above.  So don’t need to be concerned about this?

DP (134): Diastatic Power indicates the total enzymatic power of a malt, both Alpha Amylase and Beta Amylase. Levels of 50 or above are required for a normal mash program.  Lower levels may still be effective with special mash programs. So shouldn’t be an issue.

AA (59.2): Alpha amylase levels will indicate the ability of malt to convert a standard mash properly.    Alpha amylase is primarily a dextrinizing or liquefying enzyme.  It chops starch into shorter chain dextrin and allows the Beta Amylase access to all of the reducing ends of the dextrins to break them down into sugars that yeast can use.  While high levels of Alpha Amylase are more  important for brewing high adjunct beer than to the craft brewer, they must be sufficient to allow for consistent and adequate conversion. An all-malt mash can be converted with Alpha Amylase levels of 30 or above. Any concerns with this higher %?

Wort Color (2.36): Lovibond, SRM or EBC. They don’t tell me what they are measuring at I am assuming 2.36 Lovidond.

Extract Fine Grind As is (78.3): cant really find much info on this.

Extract Course Grind As is (77): The Extract/Coarse Grind as-is data most closely indicates the performance you can expect in the brewhouse, thus it has the most impact on your brew. As-is extract should be as high as possible? Don’t know the normal ranges?

Moisture ( 4.5): The closer a malt is to 1.5% MC, the less it risks mold growth and the less flavor and aroma it loses over time. For this reason, colored malts should never be "slack," that is, over 4% MC. The upper limit for acceptable moisture content in any malt is 6%. The moisture content generally reflects the quality of the malting itself; high MC malt may be poorly malted or kilned. I assume storing conditions can affect this? 

All Grain Brewing / Re: Enzyme weak Malts, conversion?
« on: April 07, 2015, 03:03:54 PM »
mash PH is 5.45 room temp. my house water is basically only good for stouts:) my bicarb is 308ppm. Good point on the potential extract. i use software and there PE could be different than what is actual. Also i didnt mention before but my mash temp did drift down to 145F over 75min maybe in this case this could be a reason. Maybe i could try a step mash next time to insure optimal environment for beta and alpha.  It's just strange i never have problems unless i have a higher adjunct/ lovibond specifically  beer.   

All Grain Brewing / Enzyme weak Malts, conversion?
« on: April 07, 2015, 07:05:57 AM »
I have been noticing that when i use a large portion of specialty malts i tend to have decreased efficiency. All my parameters are controlled. All grain: PH, 1.75qts/lb, crush is good. I batch sparge and mash for 75min and have be up to 10% lower on my efficiency. I have yet gone through a "brewhouse efficiency" test to try and figure out at what stage i have having issues ( conversion or lauter) but i am assuming its conversion. So ? is do any of your ladies have issues when using higher levels of specialty malts with conversion? Also i am assuming that higher roast malts have less enzymatic power? my most recent was an southern english brown. 64% MO, 12.9% C80, 8% C120, 6.6% special roast, 4.8%pale chocolate, 3% carafa ll. mashed at 148F 75 min.

All Grain Brewing / Re: water to grain ratio for mashing
« on: March 29, 2015, 06:21:04 AM »
You can go to 2+ qts/lb for malts with high enzymes.
Often a simple infusion will be fine in the 1.25 to 1.5 qt/lb.

It is also process/system dependent. For instance i use a EHERMS (Electric Heat Exchange Recirculating Mash System) that uses pumps to recirculate and 1.75 to 2 qts/lb works best on "my" system.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Trub vs. No Trub
« on: March 25, 2015, 06:27:51 PM »
i also have not noticed a negative impact either. Only time i limited the amount of trub is when i plan on re using the yeast

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Biggest mistake I ever made:(
« on: March 22, 2015, 06:24:32 PM »
It's a good size dent for sure and the pic is of the bottom of the kettle. My crush is .035 with filler Gage's. Have had it that way for years no worries. Must have been the floor malted pils I suppose. I just screwed up by throttling the valve all the way open causing to much pressure of which caused a big enough dent to bow the false bottom.
I gently hammered the dent back along with placing an extension on the "post" on the false bottom. We will see come next batch.

Ingredients / Re: Hop Bitterness
« on: March 22, 2015, 01:10:19 AM »
Lots of variables such as boil PH, water, Type of hop, grain bill but simple put i think it would just be less bitter. I have done the same and personally couldnt tell a difference until 10 to 15 ibus less. Would love to know your process and recipe.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Biggest mistake I ever made:(
« on: March 22, 2015, 12:42:09 AM »
I'm, like, what? Is that a dinosaur fetus in the top left corner?

Makes since now. thats why i broke out in a cold sweat! It was a demon on my shoulder the entire day :-\.. Thats really funny nice !

General Homebrew Discussion / Biggest mistake I ever made:(
« on: March 21, 2015, 04:51:55 PM »
Long frustrating day!  Was making a Czech pils on my EHERMS 12lbs wyermann floor malted pils of which I never used before. I use 1.75qts/lb and recirculate at .25 to .50 gpm. Never ever had an issue even with adjuncts. For some strange reason I developed a stuck recirculation about 30 min in. Stupid me decided to open the valve on my "pump out" thinking it would maybe jar lose some possible bits of grain stuck in the groves.........well needless to say it didn't budge and stopped completely. Couldn't get it going had to dump and clean out false bottom. I also assumed my crush was a bit smaller but nope was not had to start over and low and behold the same thing happened.  Made it through it after 12 hrs O this was a decoction also. Looks like I created a divot in the bottom of my 15 gal blichmann causing my false bottom to sag just enough to possible cause future stuck sparge and recirculation.  Anyone ever had this happen?  I am perplexed and don't know what to do except for extending the single support bar a bit.
I am embarrassed I did this broke out in a cold sweat when I saw it. 

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