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Messages - quattlebaum

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91
All Grain Brewing / Re: Creating recipes
« on: January 18, 2015, 06:58:31 AM »

One of the things that helped me the most was drinking a beer whilre I read Michael Jackson's "New World Guide to Beer".  Jackson pretty much invented the lexicon of beer description and reading his reviews as you drink really stimulates your mind to seek out those flavors in your beer.
[/quote]

I thumbed through some of this book a few years back when i found it at a cabin we vacationed at. Couldnt put it down really cool no matter how old it was. Need to but it fun read

92
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash pH
« on: January 18, 2015, 06:53:12 AM »
+1 for what these gentleman said. this is my thought

The Alkalinity is arguably the most important parameter to the brewer because it has the biggest effect on mash performance. So what is “Water Alkalinity”?  I believe It’s a buffer system that helps resist change in PH. I think of it in nature when I think of my other passion “fly fishing”.  Basically in order for the aquatic life to survive in a river system there must be Alkalinity to protect the water from any sudden shifts in PH with an ability to neutralized environmental changes such as acid rain. Most Alkalinity comes from Calcium carbonate CaC03 that is leached from rocks and soil. 


so i agree get your water tested or use RO

93
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: help me spend my bonus
« on: January 17, 2015, 08:58:27 AM »

I was going all electric until I bought a brew from a local micro that is all electric.  I had an aftertaste of ashtray. 

If you keep the element really clean you shouldn't get the scorching after taste, but it is hard to do. You have to be really diligent. And you are exactly right, it tastes/smells like ashtray.  I also think it does something different to hops bitterness. It makes the hops flavor "sharper".

If you do go with an electric element I recommend keeping it about 1/3 of the way off the bottom of the kettle. the first one I built I had the element too close to the bottom of the kettle and it intensified the heat to where there was always a light scorch flavor.

We are building a 1 bbl pilot system at the brewery now and I am going with an electric HLT with float switches and temp control, RIMS - the whole works. Sticking with gas on the BK though. Going to have my gas plumbed directly into the city gas so never have to worry about running out of propane! Will have the instant HWH plumbed directly into the MT as well. And I have employees I can make clean everything up! All I have to do is brew! (Can you tell I love my job yet?) ;)

Interesting you noticed a "sharper" character to your beer. By chance was the system using a high density element ?  Mine has a 5500 w low density element.  I can see people having second thoughts about all electric but man it is awesome. Induction is supper bad ass also:) 


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94
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: help me spend my bonus
« on: January 16, 2015, 10:13:21 AM »
Its was a lot of work but fun to build.  Nice winter project:) It does take some time to clean. I run caustic and acid through it every 3 rd batch or so. 

95
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: help me spend my bonus
« on: January 16, 2015, 09:55:28 AM »


I'm leaning towards 3 inline 20gal blichmann electric kettles and adding the herms coil for mash tun. No hurry so exploring at this point.


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That's what I did but use a 15 gal mash tun






The high gravity fellas are awesome



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96
Equipment and Software / Experimental size batches
« on: January 11, 2015, 08:25:05 PM »
The science/experimenting aspect of brewing is the main reason I enjoy this hobby that's why I have downsized the 2.5 gal batches. It does seem to go fast at that size between a growler to the homebrew club meeting and a few pints for  my friends and myself. This is what I use.

Small Coleman cooler/Walmart  28 qt I think with ss Braid. Big enough for no sparge if I want.



5 gal carboy

36 qt bayou SS pot
Camp chef 2 burner outdoor stove.

I also invested in a few 2.5 gal kegs but I do use my 5 gal for them sometimes. Lots of purging:)


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97
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Quality
« on: January 11, 2015, 06:55:24 AM »
Vinegar is a sign of acedic infection.  Insufficient sanitation is the cause.  Fruit flies are known carriers.

+1 Some info i put together for our club off flavor tasting.

Acidic/Sour

Definition: Acetic acid is a compound that causes off flavors and aromas in beer, often described as a sour or acidic taste or a vinegar character. In fact, acetic acid is the active ingredient in vinegar.


Characteristics: This is one of the five basic tastes, and is often perceived the most on the sides of the tongue, towards the rear of the mouth. The two most common acids responsible for this flavor are lactic and acetic, which both have related esters that may be perceived in the aroma. Appropriate for Witber, Lambics, Flanders Ale and Berliner wesse. Optional sourness ok in American wheat, Rye, Dry stout and saison.


Causes: Lactic acid is produced by Gram positive bacteria such as Lactobacillus and Pediococcus, which are present in dust and saliva. Acetic acid may be produced by several contaminants, including Acetobacter, Zymomonas, and yeast in the Kloeckera and Brettanomyces families. High levels of sour and acidic flavors generally indicate a sanitation problem, but they are an important part of the profile of the lambic, oud bruin and Berliner weiss styles, and to a lesser extent, Belgian white beers. The most common causes are poor sanitization; bad yeast strain; too much corn sugar; excessive amounts of citric or ascorbic acid; high fermentation temperatures; excessive acid rest; mashing too long; use of wooden spoon in cooled wort or fermentation; storage at warm temperatures; scratched plastic bucket/furminator.


Management: Good Sanitization Use Glass or stainless steel equipment and spoons. Cool fermentation temps and storage Keeping mashing times below 2 hours.

98
Beer Recipes / Good recipe for Munich Helles
« on: January 10, 2015, 08:46:21 AM »
Looking for ideas on another Helles. I have brew these over the years and just looking to see what other are doing.

OG 1.054, FG 1.012
89% German pils
9.5% cara pils
1.5% munich 10L
 20ibus, spalt, hall and tett
white labs bock 833

OG 1.048, FG 1.010
93.5% pils
3.5% munich 8L
1.5% Biscut
1.5% melanoidin
18ibus Hall
34/70 yeast

OG 1.048, FG 1.010
91% pils
6% munich 10L
3% melanoidin
18ibus hall
wyeast 2308

99
All Grain Brewing / Re: Sparging Water Volume
« on: January 10, 2015, 06:26:02 AM »

Have you tried to go a bit lower on your limit, say 1.008? and see if you notice it.  By all means i know i shouldnt ask you especially:) but from my understanding two things result in tannin extraction high PH and high temp.  So if PH is 5.2ish and temps are good maybe one may not have to worry as much about tannin extraction?

I say this because i had the same issue with my EHERMS, seemed to be extracting all the sugars prior to sparge and always ended up short. it was very frustrating so i just sparged anyways to 1.008. No one including myself notice off flavors related to tannin/Husky extraction (pilsners).

If that is working for you then don't change anything.

Well I think I really need to pay better attention. I really don't enter companions much and there is to much room for error with my and my homebrew clubs palate. 


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100
All Grain Brewing / Brew partner
« on: January 10, 2015, 05:38:47 AM »

Trusty brew partner, Peaches. She follows me around and looks upon me with curiosity for most of the brew day. Hell my dog only comes around when I and dumping grain:)


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101
Beer Recipes / Cascadian Dark Ales
« on: January 09, 2015, 09:31:17 AM »
Whats your thoughts on CDAs?  I have only made 1 back in 2010 and have vague memories of it and havent had one since. Thinking of using blackprinz malt being it has a low roast character and making it more towards a pale ale ABV. Even contemplated a cascadian dark lager like maybe a swartz but americanized but dont want to ruin a good thing:) of course i would use NW hops like Columbus, cascade, cent, chinooks. Do ya think roast and NW hops clash?

102
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Bock attenuation problem
« on: January 04, 2015, 06:02:01 PM »
shoot that sucks! wonder if you got full conversion with mostly Munich and a high mash temp? Dont think re pitching will help unfortunately. ill keep my fingers crossed :)

103
All Grain Brewing / Re: Sparging Water Volume
« on: January 03, 2015, 04:42:45 PM »
Have you tried to go a bit lower on your limit, say 1.008? and see if you notice it.  By all means i know i shouldnt ask you especially:) but from my understanding two things result in tannin extraction high PH and high temp.  So if PH is 5.2ish and temps are good maybe one may not have to worry as much about tannin extraction?

I say this because i had the same issue with my EHERMS, seemed to be extracting all the sugars prior to sparge and always ended up short. it was very frustrating so i just sparged anyways to 1.008. No one including myself notice off flavors related to tannin/Husky extraction (pilsners).

If that is working for you then don't change anything.

I modified my post a bit after i thought about it more:( maybe i am wrong
So i am assuming that yourself/professional keeps the last runnings high, above 1.012? Are your sparge durations long (>60min) ?

104
All Grain Brewing / Re: Sparging Water Volume
« on: January 03, 2015, 03:52:46 PM »
Have you tried to go a bit lower on your limit, say 1.008? and see if you notice it.  By all means i know i shouldnt ask you especially:) but from my understanding 3 things result in tannin extraction high PH, prolonged sparge durations and high temp.  So if PH is 5.2ish, sparge duration kept under 60min and temps are good maybe one may not have to worry as much about tannin/inorganic compounds/Silicic acid Si02? extraction?

I say this because i had the same issue with my EHERMS, seemed to be extracting all the sugars prior to sparge and always ended up short. it was very frustrating so i just sparged anyways to 1.008. No one including myself notice off flavors related to tannin/Husky extraction (pilsners).

105
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lager Fermentation Questions
« on: January 03, 2015, 02:17:14 PM »
Well......this is what i do and my thought process.
 1.) I do cover my pot after a few min or so of chilling with tin foil, most of the steam has slowed down ( i brew in my garage with doors closed and no wind).

2.) There does seem to be many "fermentation schedules" out there and i think there are reasons for performing each for there own reasons. My approach is this: insure proper pitch rate for COLD pitching ( 46 to 48F), ferment at 50 to 52F till within 6 to 8pts from terminal gravity (7 to 10 days usually 1.050OG wort ), let it rise to 62F hold for a few days then slow crash a few degrees a day till at 40F then crash to 30F and transfer to keg and keep at 30 F under pressure for 3 weeks ( i dont use a secondary)

3.) My lagers tend to stay in primary on the yeast for 3 to 4 weeks then i keg/condition. so all my fermentation is complete prior to kegging/cold conditioning at 30F

If ya want some light reading try braukaiser.com good info. look for fermenting lagers i think


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