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Messages - davidgzach

Pages: 1 ... 70 71 [72] 73 74 ... 111
1066
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Reusing yeast
« on: October 02, 2012, 07:22:59 AM »
Like Joe said, you may try washing the yeast.  I just started doing this and have had great results.  Here's a link I used to get me going:  http://billybrew.com/yeast-washing

+1 on the billybrew.com!

Interesting method to let it settle in the fermenter before transferring.  I may have to try that.

1067
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Reusing yeast
« on: October 02, 2012, 06:58:09 AM »
I would add, make sure to put a piece of tape on the container with date and strain.

Otherwise, you might wind up with a whole bunch of mystery yeast.

+100!  I also include the previous style so I know what the gravity was and IBUs.

Dave

1068
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Reusing yeast
« on: October 02, 2012, 05:21:50 AM »
Reusing yeast is pretty easy.  You just need to get over the hump! 

Find a suitable storage container.  Boiled Mason Jars are a common pick.  I use Iced Tea containers.  I bleach the crap out of them and then rinse VERY well with hot water.  Give the fermenter a swirl after racking to stir up the cake and pour in to the container.  Place in the fridge and let everything settle out over night.  I'll then decant off the beer and add distilled water.  You can also wash the yeast at this point by transferring to a new container.  I find this tedious and overly burdensome for my purposes. 

Anyway, I would add 1/3-1/2 container to the new beer depending upon how long the slurry has been in the fridge.  Check the mrmalty viability calulator and go from there with 1/3 being 90-100% viability.

Dave

1069
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pilsner Will it Blow?
« on: October 02, 2012, 05:10:53 AM »
What Kai said:

And make sure you leave them in a place that can be cleaned easily just in case you have some bottle bombs.  At 45F and 2 weeks, there is a good chance there is some fermentation left to be done.

Dave

1070
All Grain Brewing / Re: Best size boil kettle for 10 gallon batches
« on: October 02, 2012, 05:01:46 AM »
I'd go 20G.  Wish I had one myself!  15G will result in boil-overs as I can fully attest to. 

1071
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Champagne bottles
« on: September 29, 2012, 08:00:51 AM »
Can you put a regular cap on a champagne bottle?

1072
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottle Conditioning
« on: September 26, 2012, 05:07:54 AM »
+1

1073
All Grain Brewing / Re: your experiences in moving to 10g?
« on: September 19, 2012, 06:04:24 AM »
Re: Starter. I just went with two flasks and two stir plates and just ordered two vials.

That's what I would do if I brewed a 10g batch.  I already have the flasks and stir plates and couldn't pass up the opportunity to ferment with two different yeasts in this situation.

Absolutely. I still do a lot of side by side batches this way. I have a "festweizen" going right now with 2 different weizen yeasts.

I'm on board here as well, except I use saved slurry whenever possible.  Always have 5-6 saved to compare in the fridge which has really increased my understanding of what each adds to a particular brew.  However, if no slurry, then 2 starters.....

Dave

1074
All Grain Brewing / Re: your experiences in moving to 10g?
« on: September 18, 2012, 05:53:38 AM »
My experiences:
As was stated, 10g is heavy so try to have a solution.  I put my pot on a utility cart to lauter and then roll it to my burner.  13-14G+ is heavy!
You need to collect about 13-14G to boil down to 10.5-11G.  In a 60Q pot, slight boil-overs are almost a given.  Be prepared.....
High gravity beers can get messy so stick below 1.060ish as stated if using a 10G cooler.
My 1/2" x 50' IC does well to chill to ale temps but I have to put the kettle in my chest freezer to get down to lagering temps.  Very heavy to pick up over the wall!  I plan to experiment with frozen and sanitized soda bottles per Euge in the near future.
Transfer to 2 x 5G containers is tricky.  I use a sanitized pitcher and paint strainers.
I LOVE to experiment with 2 different yeasts.  It always amazes me how different the beers turn out.
That's all I can think of now.

Dave

EDIT:  Just thought of 2 more.  I've been making a lot of lagers so doing 90 minute boils.  You can collect less for a 60 minute boil and avoid boil-overs.  You can also collect less and add some water during transfer to primary.   Just double check the adjustment in your brewing software.




1075
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: washing WLP002
« on: September 12, 2012, 04:13:21 AM »
Starter sounds like the way to go....

Dave

1076
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Anyone receive their copy of IPA yet?
« on: September 11, 2012, 01:24:30 PM »
Nope.

1077
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: washing WLP002
« on: September 11, 2012, 09:32:31 AM »
Are you worried that much about the trub?  How much of an effect do you think it will have?  I reuse saved slurry all the time unless I've dry hopped.

Dave

1078
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lager question
« on: September 11, 2012, 06:35:01 AM »
Euge,

Is the beer cleaning up?

Dave

1079
Ingredients / Re: Hop Drying
« on: September 11, 2012, 06:15:14 AM »
I also use a door screen. I have tried the oven and did not like the results,

What was your process with the oven and what did you not like about it?  Did you leave it on all the time and what temp did you use? 

1080
Ingredients / Re: Hop Drying
« on: September 10, 2012, 05:36:04 AM »
The only smell is vegetle, not necessarily hop aroma.  Like wet grass almost.  It's rained so much here in Philly lately I thought this was my best bet.  Good to hear the processors dry at 140F.  I'll keep it going.  Can't wait to make my first beer with them!

As always, thanks for the help!

Dave

Let us know how these turn out in the beer you brew. Would be nice if they have good aroma.

Will do.  They are Cascade and the cones are huge!  I plan to use them first as a big fat dry-hop addition in a Pale Ale. 

Dave

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