Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - davidgzach

Pages: 1 ... 91 92 [93] 94 95 ... 110
1381
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermenting in a 7.9 Gallon Primary
« on: February 22, 2012, 12:33:39 PM »
Tom,

I see your point.  Do you think I could get away with 7 gallons and just let the Krausen blow out?  Or do you think that would be detrimental to the beer?

Dave

1382
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermenting in a 7.9 Gallon Primary
« on: February 22, 2012, 10:52:47 AM »
If you do add water post-fermentation I would add sanitary, de-aerated water.  (Boil and let cool.)

Thanks.  That's a great point.  I didn't even think that the water would be oxygenated coming out of the faucet.......

1383
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermenting in a 7.9 Gallon Primary
« on: February 22, 2012, 10:23:14 AM »
I would brew 6 gallons and just put that in the keg, or brew more and use fermcap.  I would not dilute it with water.

Curious as to why not add water? 

1384
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: lager starters cooled?
« on: February 22, 2012, 09:45:59 AM »
Room temp.  You're just making more yeast, not beer. 

1385
Yeast and Fermentation / Fermenting in a 7.9 Gallon Primary
« on: February 22, 2012, 08:55:47 AM »
Fellow Brewers,

I've decided to try my hand at brewing 7.5 gallon batches and kegging in the new slim quarter kegs.  However I obviously cannot fill a 7.9 gallon primary with 7.5 gallons of wort and not expect something to blow up or at the very least have half my yeast go through the blow-off tube.

How much headspace would you recommend in the 7.9 gallon fermenter?  I was thinking about brewing 6 gallons to a higher OG and adding a gallon of water when I keg.  Thoughts?

Dave

1386
All Grain Brewing / Re: how to darken up my Bohemian Pils
« on: January 29, 2012, 02:11:42 PM »
So it looks like a consensus is building...

I'll try by adding 1# of Munich to my 10gal batch (I guess this would replace 1# of the Pils malt?) 

I'll also boil the 2 decoctions for 25-30 mins, instead of 10-15 mins. 

I'm already doing a 90 min boil, so I'll leave that rather than bump to 120 min. Don't want to change to many things all at once.

Sound like a plan?

I like this plan.  I like just boiling the dococtions longer as well. 

1387
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Adding body to a beer
« on: January 29, 2012, 02:09:10 PM »
Don't add dextrose, it is corn sugar and is fully fermentable.  oceanselv means add dextrin.

What was the OG and FG of the beer?  What was the recipe?

+1. 

1388
I'm at a loss other than maybe you're just not accustomed to the taste of green beer.  Give them a couple of weeks and see how the flavor changes as the beer conditions.

1389
At what temp are you fermenting?  Too high a fermentation temp and you can produce fusel alcohols which are rough on the palate.  Only other thing I can think of is whether you are adding extra malt extract or boiling down to a lower volume to create a higher ABV?

Dave

1390
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: fermenter beer loss
« on: January 29, 2012, 11:01:57 AM »
I started making 5.5 gal. batches to account for loss.  I almost always end up with more than 5 gal. when I keg it.

+1.  Same here.

1391
Equipment and Software / Re: Iodaphor vs. Star San
« on: January 27, 2012, 09:51:59 AM »
I'm a StarSan guy but it never hurts to save a few $.......

1392
All Grain Brewing / Re: Efficiency: How Good is Too Good
« on: January 27, 2012, 07:49:11 AM »
This has been a fun read for me.  Lot's of topics and theories.  I just wanted to add a thought on high efficiency: 

One looks to achieve full conversion in the mash and then lauter the beer.  Your efficiency depends on how good your mash and lautering processes are.  I believe that if you hit and maintain the proper temps in your mashing and at mashout, then you should not necessarily get a grainy and/or thin beer.  And if you have a good sparging process, you can have a great beer with a high efficiency because you rinsed the grains in the optimal manner-ie Sierra Nevada.  Where you run in to problems with a high efficiency beer IMHO is not performing a proper mash for it (Hochkurz, Decoction, etc.) to get the correct body and mouthfeel, oversparging and/or not hitting proper mashout temps. 

Dave

1393
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Beer Flavor-Hops?
« on: January 27, 2012, 06:31:17 AM »
Is sour the right word?  I would think the pub owner wouldn't sell sour beer.  I have used 2# of the 2011 Cascade crop from Hops Direct and they were fantastic, although high at 7.2%.

Dave

1394
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Tasting a 137 year old beer !
« on: January 17, 2012, 08:27:17 AM »
VERY cool post.  Thanks for sharing!

1395
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Re starting starter
« on: January 17, 2012, 07:54:27 AM »
A.)  Should I take out the starter I've made and bring to room temp and just pitch as is (Not going to hurt anything)
B.)  Should I add more wort and "wake" the yeast up a day or so before pitching (Optimal)
C.)  Throw out and start over (No. it's fine as long as you don't have anything nasty growing in your fridge)
D.)  Quit my job so I can brew whenever I please!  ;D (Most optimal so long as you can keep a roof over your head!)

Dave

Pages: 1 ... 91 92 [93] 94 95 ... 110